Major Corrosion Problem on House Batteries

Tuney-GA · 07-24-2009, 05:38 PM

I thought I was doing a good job taking care of my house and chassis batteries. BUT!!!

I have 3 NADA 8231 deep cycle batteries in my house battery nest. I've kept them filled with distilled water and checked them regularly. Recently I noticed that they were a bit weak. starting the generator and not showing fully charged on the meter.

Turns our I've developed a major corrosion problem on the positive posts. Posts and connectors completely covered with turquoise muck.

Tie down strips and screws are completely corroded also and the battery tray has a pile of gray material that looks almost like ash piled up in the bottom.

I've shutdown the coach, removed the batteries and cleaned everything up with baking soda and distilled water. Tomorrow will take the batteries in to be tested, and try to replace the corroded tie down screws and straps.

Any Ideas? I know it's been hot, and I saw some stuff on the web about fumes in the battery compartment.

Doggy Daddy · 07-24-2009, 08:52 PM

If you batteries were gassing, the acid in the fumes was landing on everything it can especially in a confined space. As you know there are many ways to protect your battery posts from automotive sprays, vaseline, grease and paint. To protect your metal battery box you could try plastic battery boxes, spray protectant or use grease on the battery brackets.
A friend mounted a small plastic 12v elec fan, like those behind refrigerators, in his battery compartment. The batteries were hooked up to solar so there was no concern about battery drain.
My house batteries AM Solar - Batteries are Absorbed Glass Mat (AGM). These batteries have very thick positive plates and belong in the true Deep Cycle class. They don't outgas (unless severly overcharged) and because of this they don't corrode terminals and don't need to be watered. I am very happy with them.

Tuney-GA · 07-24-2009, 09:21 PM

Thanks for the quick response. It's obvious that Gassing is the problem. I like the idea of the AGM batteries, but the cost and weight may be a concern. I'll have to look into it some more.

DAN L · 07-25-2009, 12:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tuney-GA

Thanks for the quick response. It's obvious that Gassing is the problem. I like the idea of the AGM batteries, but the cost and weight may be a concern. I'll have to look into it some more.

i installed 2 6v lifeline agm batteries in series under the stairs in the original battery box in my moho in sep 08. due to their size, i had to install them on their sides. i originally had 2 12v deka flooded cell batteries in parallel. i went from 200 ah capacity to 300 ah capacity. they are working very well.

i got my batteries online from bd batteries. they were expensive initially but should last at least 10 years. one of their benefits is that they never require servicing.

Tuney-GA · 07-25-2009, 06:01 AM

I've got 3 12V 210 AH Batteries wired in parallel managed by a Deminsions 2kw inverter / charger, with a small solar panel, and a charge balancing switch that maintains a constant relationship between chassis and house.

According to the specs they weigh 59 Lbs each. The equivalent AGM batteries would weigh more than twice that.

Route 66 · 07-25-2009, 06:15 AM

These two products have worked well for me.

Tuney-GA · 07-25-2009, 07:20 AM

Researching the Lifeline GPL-4DL Batteries, I'd need 3 of them, The cost, weight, and where to store them in my 35 Foot MH seems to make them impractical. If we were full timers, I'd have to give them serious consideration.

Guess I'll just have to focus on managing the gas problem for now.

JC2 · 07-25-2009, 08:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Route 66

These two products have worked well for me.

Like Dirk, I've also had very good results with these items.

Tuney-GA · 07-25-2009, 10:39 AM

The batteries test good. Bought the cleaner and protector at the parts store. Then ran all over town looking for the nuts, screws, and straps to replace the tie downs, as well as the 2 different size nuts for the batteries.

wa8yxm · 07-25-2009, 11:23 AM

You should be inspecting those batteires at least once a month, cleaning and watering as/IF needed. NOTE: This applies to ALL RV (And Automotive) batteries.. (Watering only for flooded wet cells, Use DISTILLED water only please)

NOTE: if you have to water every month, check more often and get a new converter.

Tuney-GA · 07-25-2009, 01:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wa8yxm

You should be inspecting those batteires at least once a month, cleaning and watering as/IF needed. NOTE: This applies to ALL RV (And Automotive) batteries.. (Watering only for flooded wet cells, Use DISTILLED water only please)

NOTE: if you have to water every month, check more often and get a new converter.

The batteries are fine. The wire's and tie downs are a mess. I've always kept up with the water (distilled), but the corrosion thing snuck up on me.

Funny thing. The sealed chassis batteries which sit right below the house batteries in the same bay have no problems, and it looks like the gas problem with the house batteries hasn't propagated down.

tom wilson · 07-25-2009, 03:34 PM

add oil to the batteries and that will eleminate the acid mist coming from the batteries.
my mh came with thermoil batteries and i have continued using oil in the replacement batteries.
tom

Tuney-GA · 07-25-2009, 03:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tom wilson

add oil to the batteries and that will eleminate the acid mist coming from the batteries.
my mh came with thermoil batteries and i have continued using oil in the replacement batteries.
tom

I've never heard of that one. What kind of oil? How much? What does that do to the acid electrolyte?

DAN L · 07-25-2009, 04:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tuney-GA

I've never heard of that one. What kind of oil? How much? What does that do to the acid electrolyte?

use the search function of this forum. there are folks who swear by THERMOIL and folks who swear at it.

tom wilson · 07-25-2009, 05:32 PM

oil floats on water so the oil will not mix with the acid. mineral oil will not touch the plates if you keep the water level high.

Tuney-GA · 07-25-2009, 05:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tuney-GA

The batteries test good. Bought the cleaner and protector at the parts store. Then ran all over town looking for the nuts, screws, and straps to replace the tie downs, as well as the 2 different size nuts for the batteries.

Foot note: 12" 5/16"-18 screw stock with wing nuts is to long to fit in the bay of a meridian 346 to tie down the batteries. It blocks the tray from closing by hitting the supporting cross members. It has to be a 9-10" 5/16-18 stove bolt. Try and find one.

gbs2320 · 11-04-2009, 06:30 AM

I had the same problem. After researching, I put about 1 oz of mineral oil in each cell after removing enough water to prevent over filling. I also installed battery trays (from boat store) and sprayed connectors with that red paint color protector stuff. No more out gassing. After 2 months and a 6,000 mile trip not a hint of corrosion. Search the mineral oil trick and you will find a lot on it. Edison even sold it for battery protection. Greg

OldChief7155 · 11-04-2009, 06:45 AM

I bought 3 battery boxes at Wal-Mart and I put the little felt red/green washers on the battery posts.

The boxes stop/catch any spills and the washers prevent corrosion. I can't fit the lids on the boxes but they've been in there 2 years now and no corrosion problems.

Petro · 11-04-2009, 08:21 AM

I have 3 Grp. 31 12V batteries wired parallel. When I installed these batteries new I added 2 oz mineral oil to each cell, I have a Xantrex 2000W inverter charger and I have no corrosion problems. I also find I only need to add water a couple of times a year because of reduced gassing. I believe this practice started back in the early days of the railroad.

Don

cannon man · 11-04-2009, 12:22 PM

had same problem. used a hole saw to cut more ventilation holes in box. problem solved.