No Cab Heat Control

[GerrysRV]

I have a 2017 30T Sunstar. There is a problem with the cabin temperature control where if you turn on the heat, it is at full hot with no temperature adjustment, even when the Victory Climate Systems controller is turned all the way down to cold. It has been at the dealer twice for climate issues. First it was because there was no heat at all. After the second visit the heat comes on and will not turn off.

I found that if I turn on the air re-circulation switch the air got hot and stayed hot regardless of the temperature control setting. When it was turned off the air would cool. I also found that as I adjust the temperature control, the door at the bottom of the heater box would move incrementally with the adjustment.

My temporary fix is to unplug the actuator at the heater box and plug it into the heat control water valve actuator. That does provide for heat adjustment in the cab. The cable that was connected to the heat control actuator is too sort to reach the heater box door actuator and is disconnected.

I would now like to properly complete the repair. The wiring that works with the temporary fix is a Red (12dvc), Black (common) and White (control voltage) at both ends of the harness and appears to be a direct lead from the temperature controller to the actuator.

The unplugged harness has the Red and Black leads but a Green control lead at the Air Source Control (re-circulation) switch. The lead at the actuator end of the harness is Yellow. There is continuality from the Green to the Yellow ends of the harness, but also to ground which suggests the something else is part of the circuit.

Has any body else experienced this problem? Found a solution?
Does any body have or know how to get the factory wiring schematics?

Gerry

[Unplanned]

Is it possible that the wiring diagram is a chassis harness? Our 2008 Workhorse chassis has the dash HVAC system that is Workhorse not Winnebago.
Good Luck.

[Hikerdogs]

Unplanned is correct in that the dash heat, cooling, and controls are part of the stripped chassis package from Ford. As such you will need to either take it to a Ford dealer for repair under warranty, or get a hold of a set of schematics form a Ford workshop manual.

Personally I would suggest taking it to the Ford dealer. The problem may be as simple as the components being improperly wired. However if you have a defective component it will have to be diagnosed and replaced by a Ford dealer or authorized repair station to be covered under warranty.

[grtharris]

GerrysRV, Boy have I learned a lot looking into your problem. From my contact at Winnebago "They coil the excess wire harness behind the control panel in the dash. Both cables should have plenty of length." and I have the electrical drawings of the control unit and harness.
Here are a couple of good links about the dash AC/Heater units used in Winnebago Coaches.
One is a little old but still good info.
http://www.winnebagoind.com/resource...g%20&%20AC.pdf
http://www.winnebagoind.com/resource...nditioning.pdf
Here ia link to a PDF from Evans Temcon showing what comes with the chassis and what Winnebago installs.
Evans Tempcon, Inc
Now the real interesting part of this search for information. On April 11, 2016 Winnebago switched from Evans Temcon to Victory Climate Systems as the supplier of the dash AC/Heater systems.
When Winnebago converted from Evans to Victory components, Victory was directed to manufacture components that directly swapped out the Evans system so the transition would be transparent. So the new Victory system kinda look like to the old Evans system. The new Victory systems has all electrical actuators no vacuum actuators.
One more tip bit SCS/Fridgette was one of the first major suppliers of AC/Heater systems to the RV industrial. Victory bought them in 2010 and now 6 years later they are supplying Winnebago.
Sorry for begin so long winded.

[GerrysRV]

Thanks grtharris

The information and links you supplied is close. It is a Victory Climate Systems unit and my Sunstar 30T has some serious wiring issues. I tried contacting VCS via the phone number on their web page. The lady that answered told me they offer no technical support and directed me to Winnebago. I called Winnebage’s service line and the representative did send me some information, but it does not provide the information needed. The first link you provided is close, but my system is servo driven and does not included the Ari Source Control (fresh/re-circulate air) switch. Below is what I sent to Winnebago Wednesday evening. I am still waiting for a response.

April 5, 2017

2017 Winnebago Sunstar LX 30T
Serial Number : 70E42W142210
VIN : 1F65F5DY5G0A13261

Good Morning Steve

Thank you for the information. Sadly it does not address the issues I am experiencing. Below I have tried to explain the problem, what my troubleshooting has discovered and what information I hope you can provide.

The problem is with the cabin temperature control system on my motor home. If you turn on the heat, it is at full hot with no temperature adjustment, even when the Victory Climate Systems controller is turned all the way down to cold. It has been at the dealer three times for climate issues.

First, when I purchased the RV, I was told the heater unit was not functioning and there has a recall for repair. After my first service I was under the impression that the repairs were made.

Second, on my way home from vacation the weather turned bad, raining and 50°. The heater provided no heat what so ever. Returning the RV for a second service and the heat still does not work.

Third service I guess I can say I have heat. The problem is that it comes on at full hot and will not turn off regardless of the Temperature Control setting.

After the third visit I decided that a new approach is needed.

******Picture of my HVAC panel did not paste.******

The Blower Control, A/C Control and Mode Selection Switch appear to be working properly.

I found that if I turn the Air Source Control switch on the air got hot and stayed hot regardless of the Temperature Control setting. When it was turned off the air would cool. I also found that as I adjust the temperature control, the door at the bottom of the heater box would move incrementally with the adjustment but have no effect on the air temperature of the unit.

The wires on the Temperature Control potentiometer is a Red (12dvc), Black (common) and White (control voltage) and at end of the harness that plugs into the actuator. It appears to be a direct lead from the Temperature Control to the actuator plug. My understanding is that this should be connected to the blend door actuator?

The wires on the Air Source Control switch is Red and Black with a Green control lead. The lead at the actuator plug of the harness that originally was connected to the water control actuator is Yellow. There is continuity from the Green to the Yellow ends of the harness, but also to ground which suggests the something else is part of the circuit?

My temporary fix is to unplug the harness connected to the actuator at the bottom of the heater box and plug it into the heat control water valve actuator. That does provide for limited heat control in the cab but is very slow to respond to the adjustment. Basically, restricting the hot water flow through the heater core will provide at least some form of temperature control. The cable that was connected to the heat water control actuator is disconnected.

The information I need is:

A parts breakdown of the heater box or conformation that the door at the bottom is not the air blend door, but the fresh / re-circulate air door?

Where is the location of the air blend door and how to access it?

What is the correct wiring of the heater box, water control valve, the air blend, and fresh/re-circulate doors?

Also, it appears that a wiring change made by the dealership was to disconnect a gray wire from a component mid way up the heater box and connect it to a pale blue or pale green wire near the water control actuator. There is also a blue wire going to the component and the gray wire was pulled out of the same sleeving as the blue wire. The gray wire was replaced with a wire that is going to the AC pressure switch. I have no idea where the pale blue or green wire came from. What the proper connections for these components?

I’m not sure if this would be in the Winnebago wiring schematics or part of the Victory Climate Systems installations instructions. I can understand why the dealership would be challenged by this problem and hope you will continue to work with me to resolve it.

Gerry

[GerrysRV]

Correction for the reply above. The diagram in the link does not include the Air Source Control switch. The unit on my RV does.

[grtharris]

GerrysRV PM me your email address I think I have all the drawings you are looking for.

[grtharris]

Your AC/Heater does not have a blend door. It has a combo coil, the evaporator and heater coil share the same assemble. Output temp is controlled by water flow through the heater coil.
The blend door is on the bottom and controlled by the actuator on lower left side.
The wires on the fresh air actuator are red, black and yellow at the actuator and red, black and green at the control panel. There is a relay in the circuit to change the signal polarity.
The wires on the water flow actuator are red, black and white.

[GerrysRV]

grtharris
Great - please send me the info. My email is [email protected]

[GerrysRV]

Problem Solved. Thanks to the support of iRV2 member “grtharris” and his contact at Winnebago.

The Victory Climate System unit is not like typical heater units as found on the internet. The VCS does not use a air blend door to control the air temperature. Instead controls the water flow through to heat and air flow across to cool the heater core. It works, just very slow to react to temperature adjustment.

The issue with my unit was that the harness that should been connect to the water control actuator was connected to the fresh air door and the fresh air door harness was connected to the water control actuator.

The water control circuit has a Red, Black and White wires on both the Temperature Control potentiometer and water control actuator ends of the harness. In my case the harness was long enough to reach from the fresh air door to the water control actuator.

The Air Source Control was not so simple. The circuit has a Red, Black and Green wires at the dash switch, but a Red, Black and Yellow wires on the fresh air door actuator end. “grtharris” forwarded mechanical and electrical diagrams where it shows a relay in the circuit and it should be connected to the air door actuator. With the dash removed, I could see that there is sufficient length of wire to pull to reach the air door actuator and made the connection.

Finally there was some wiring that did not look “factory” and did not follow the wiring diagram. In the engine compartment there is a Gray wire connected to a Blue wire. It also has Yellow wire going from the Thermostatic to a AC pressure switch and a Yellow wire to??? On my vehicle, the VCS AC Clutch relay is bypassed and is using the Ford clutch relay instead, so this is okay.

Sorry for being so long winded, it’s a Chicago thing. I have corrected the wiring diagram to match my vehicle. I will gladly forward it to anyone interested. Contact me at foxfab@aol,com

Gerry