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Old 08-24-2023, 07:49 AM   #1
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No Power to Leveling Control Panel 2006 Tour 40KD

I have a 2006 Tour 40KD. Intermittently I have no power to my HWH auto leveling panel, outside cameras, and cockpit circulation fans. Maintenance shop cannot find the problem but suspect it is being caused buy a faulty relay. They have called Winnebago for assistance but they won't help them because they are not a Winnebago Dealer.

Anyone have this sort of intermittent electrical problem?
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Old 08-24-2023, 12:49 PM   #2
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Inspect the outer firewall in front of drivers left foot for a battery cable attached to a double-post connection, the other side of which supplies 12V to the cockpit area controls.

Mine had a loose nut, that intermittently shut everything down,, including motor and Allison controls.
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Old 08-24-2023, 02:24 PM   #3
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Jacks, camera and windshield fans? That is intermitant, I assume. So little testing can be done when it is not bad?
Can you point to anything more in how and when it fails or resumes working? Any other items which you can say do or don't work while this is happening?

The more info you can sort out as actually not working or working at any given time when these are failed, can lead to sorting out which circuits are involved and be very helpful on cutting the chase!
Thoughts for right now would be that those would not likely be fed by one specific breaker or fuse on the power side. The HWH is not often on with the cameras and the front windshield fans not on with either of the other two?? Prone to being wrong on that guess but seems unlikley to be the same power feed.

But there is one thing they all have in common and that is ground and corroded grounds can be pretty common, especially on RV if they set for more extended periods than cars or trucks.

One way to go if wanting to try to head off trouble that may not be there now but likely to come back, is to check the ground bus bars. A large complex RV is likely to have a number of different buss bars but there is one location that is almost always true for RV.

If one looks from the front side of the battery rack, often hidden down and behind the batteries and mounted on the frame is a big copper buss bar. Most of the negative battery cables will lead down to this buss for location finding!

It may also have lots of small wires for the smaller cicuits like fans, jacks, and cameras!
Since it is under the floor and gets lots of water, dirt and general tough conditions, it is a good place to find corrosion!
Imagine a wire that is a little bit loose and sets for a while as we store or camp at one site. It is easy to get a bit too much corrosion and stop making a good connection but if we drive for a while, the moving/jarring may shake or scrape some of the corrosion off to let things work again!
I can't say at the moment that is the correct buss bar and it may be at a different location but if you know of other places, one way to ID the correct one would be to find one small wire labeled XW!
That is the ground wire for the two fans.
Winnebago labels small wires like this:
Click image for larger version

Name:	wire ID.jpg
Views:	56
Size:	30.2 KB
ID:	187071

This label is also used on the drawings and we can use this list to "decode" the labels for the "from" and "to" as well as some idea of what purpose they serve:
https://www.winnebago.com/Files/File...ical_guide.pdf

The drawing for your front fans. Click for a better view!
Click image for larger version

Name:	xw.jpg
Views:	54
Size:	101.1 KB
ID:	187072

If we tie all that together we find wire XW goes from ignition switch to ground. If the wire is loose/corroded at the bus bar, it can be intermitant.

But it also has to go through the ignition switch and it seems logical all the problems mentioned might work through that igniton switch?
Or it can also be a growing defect in the ignition switch. Sometimes we get too much "stuff" hanging on the key and swinging back and forth wears the contacts in the switch??

Point to keep in mind if things go bad? If you turn the key off/on a few times, would the contacts possible make in the switch and you could say that is supect?

If that same contact works all the different failures, that could be the problem. But checking the grounds is a much easier/cheaper job than changing the ignition switch, so I go for easy first!

It WOULD be nice if things failed and stayed that way until we got time to sort the question but life is not meant to be simple!
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Old 08-28-2023, 06:30 AM   #4
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Thanks looking...
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Old 08-28-2023, 06:31 AM   #5
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Thanks...trying to digest all this ...appreciate this extensive reply!
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Old 08-28-2023, 06:42 AM   #6
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Yes, it is a bit of confusion at times and no need to rush if not needed.
The idea is that it has to have a full circuit (circle?) to make things work. I t needs not only th epower but also a path back to ground. Looking at all those different items, the ground is one single thing that might make them all fail if it were the common item.

To keep the confusion down, I looked at the ground side and found this wire XW runs from the ground buss bar to the ignition key and then to the when the key is on, likely that ground passes on to the fans.

Do you happen to know if all the items which seem to have failed, work only when the ignition is on?
If true, that might leave the switch as a supsect. But that is one of the difficult and expensive parts to change, so I tend to like to see the wire going to the switch is not just loose or corroded!

I've got the easy part of this game as I can make suggestions and leave it to you to get to it and do as seems right!

With the weather we have, I'm hiding in the house till it cools off! Good luck to you on the search!
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Old 09-05-2023, 01:05 PM   #7
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Good afternoon TigrBob. I own a 2006 Itasca Ellipse 40FD and had a similar issue. It started out as in intermittent problem and gradually became an all-the-time issue. My wife and I finished the last 6 months of a 1 year trip with no slides out and no leveling.

The items that stopped working were:
- Both defrost fans (ceiling mounted, passenger and driver)
- back-up camera display
- compass/temp display on dash
- HWH control panel
- vacuum pump (above generator mounted on firewall, allows the dash control for defrost/AC to work)
- MMDC computer on dash
- power mirror control

I downloaded the wiring schematic from Winnebago and had it printed on 11x17 paper at FedEx. I searched through the pages until I found all of these items and then wrote down the wire codes that went to them (Morich sent you the "how-to" on IDing wires). When I had that list completed it was easy to see what the common power circuit was for all of those items, for my rig it was the JJX and JJZ.

When I looked through the schematic I found that these come from relays which are located behind the resettable circuit breakers in the front drivers side compartment. It was a pain to undue that panel and get the wiring harness jockeyed out of the way (with all the power disconnected!!). I could then see 2 rows of Bosch style relays, 18 total. I pulled a couple to see what the connections looked like and they were pretty rough. Lots of heat produce oxidation and some corrosion.

I ended up pulling each relay socket (the base the relay plugs into) and replacing the female electrical terminal in each one (5 per socket). When that was done I tested each relay to see if they were within the specifications I found on Bosch's website. I ended up replacing 2 relays. I used plenty of dielectric grease when I put it all back together.

It took a lot of research and a couple of days kneeling at that compartment (and an awful lot of patience) to complete that job, but we have not had any issues with that this summer. Hoping it stays that way until after we are back in FL for the winter.

Sorry for such a long reply, but when I read your original post I remember thinking a lot of the same things. I even purchased a new ignition switch (which I never even installed). I was really baffled at first and then things all started to make sense.

Good luck with your rig, and I hope it is something as simple as some poor connections and maybe a relay or two going bad.

Russ
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