Split Charge relay, why not?

[olley]

Hi guys the battery mode relay has gone u/s again, this is the one that joins the two sets of batteries together, possibly because of my large battery bank (540amp)

So I am looking at a higher amp job like this: http://caraudiosecurity.com/shop/product/products_id/52...erer/rc_froogle.html

Or a split charge relay like this one http://www.power-store.com/view-item...id=689&id=114&

Now the questions is: RV's never seem to allow the on-board charger to charge the chassis battery, and their seems no logical reason (to me) not to do this, however if I am wrong, it could be a very expensive mistake.

The split charge relay in the link above allows charging in both directions once a preset voltage has been reached.

Anybody got any views as to why it shouldn't be done, or practical experiance of split charge relays?

Olley

[olley]

Hi guys the battery mode relay has gone u/s again, this is the one that joins the two sets of batteries together, possibly because of my large battery bank (540amp)

So I am looking at a higher amp job like this: http://caraudiosecurity.com/shop/product/products_id/52...erer/rc_froogle.html

Or a split charge relay like this one http://www.power-store.com/view-item...id=689&id=114&

Now the questions is: RV's never seem to allow the on-board charger to charge the chassis battery, and their seems no logical reason (to me) not to do this, however if I am wrong, it could be a very expensive mistake.

The split charge relay in the link above allows charging in both directions once a preset voltage has been reached.

Anybody got any views as to why it shouldn't be done, or practical experiance of split charge relays?

Olley

[edgray]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Anybody got any views as to why it shouldn't be done, or practical experiance of split charge relays? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
OLLEY: I'm not an electrician, but I do know that "some" coach builders do in fact include a device that allows the chassis batty to receive charging from the converter once the house battys have reached a preset level of charge.

My Newmar gasser is equipped with a "Bi-Directional Relay" (aka, BIRD) made by Intellitec, that allows exactly what you are wanting. There is another thread here on iRV2 that discusses this subject, and I'm remebering there were pictures too. Using the "find" button, you can search here in the Workhorse forum or go to the Newmar forum and search there. good luck. ED

[DriVer]

Yesterday Beau came over to my house and we changed my relay. Previously the coach batteries were not charging and this was being confirmed by my 150W inverter. My inverter powered my laptop while underway and it was going into overload. The only reason it would go into overload is because of a low voltage condition which causes the unit to draw more amps.

I believe we lost our relay at about the same time we took a lightning strike this past July in Forest City, IA.

We changed the relay, left side behind the 12volt breaker panel and under the step, started the engine, metered the batteries and voilÃ*! Charging!

Good to go!

[Max Hubrich]

Olley,

Go here to Trik-L-Start. It will do the trick for you. I bought one, have it in my hand, and never used it. As Ed Gray sez, Newmar doesn't need it.

Good luck,

[Duner]

Olley,
What model invert/charger do you have in the coach?
If it's like mine I would have a bit of a concern. I have a Dimensions 2000(watt). Every 5 or 10 on/off cycles it applies a "conditioning" charge of 15.5+ volts for many hours (4-8 hrs?). Not sure if the chassis components would tolerate that high of voltage for that long without doing damage.
Just my humble opinion.

About 4 yrs ago I installed a $5 Harbor Freight trickle charger from the coach 120vac to the engine battery. Keeps it charged all the time I'm plugged in to sshore power and has not over-charged it either. This is my froggle approach to the $70 Trik-L-Start.

Last month I took another froogle approach and pulled my relay, took it apart, flipped the copper contact washer over to a new fresh surface, and filed the other contacts. Took about 1.5 hrs and saved about $45.

I have beef'd up the coach batteries to 4 T-125 Trojan 6v golf cart baatteries. I also replaced the worn out engine bat with a higher CCA battery. So, I guess the stock Winnie relay probably won't last too long since the surge currents can potentially be much higher.

[Duner]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by DriVer:
Yesterday Beau came over to my house and we changed my relay...... </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
Hey DriVer,
This is relay problem is really a Winnebago issue in their choice of relays and cabling. I suggest putting a shortcut to the Winnebago Forum.
Thx,
Duner

[DriVer]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Duner:
This is relay problem is really a Winnebago issue in their choice of relays and cabling. I suggest putting a shortcut to the Winnebago Forum. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>Durer, You're right this entire post should actually be moved to the WGO Forum which I will do now.

[olley]

Hi Guys thanks for all the info, have to say I cleaned my spec's twice before I realised Driver had moved it over here.

It appears from some previous postings I have now read that Winnebago now fit the "Trickle Start" as standard, interesting that they didn't fit a split charge relay instead, surely can't be just down to price, can it?

I already have a "Battery Master" so I think to be on the safe side I had better just fit the bigger relay.

Olley

[John Hilley]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Last month I took another froogle approach and pulled my relay, took it apart, flipped the copper contact washer over to a new fresh surface, and filed the other contacts. Took about 1.5 hrs and saved about $45. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Did you saw the top off?

[MrTransistor]

Hi Olley,

There have been many posts on this subject, pros and cons and good advice. Do a search on Trombetta. I just checked the Trombetta site and they haven't changed the coil on the Bear yet. There is a misprint in their file showing a 12V coil of 32 ohms. This should read 24V. I've done the math but haven't ordered the bell wire to rewind the coils on mine.

Remember that if you order any high current contactor from any factory, and there is a silver contact option, by all means, order the silver!

[Duner]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by John Hilley:
Did you saw the top off? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
No, the lid is crimped on. I just used a small screw driver as a wedge to bend the crimp out -- it's pretty soft metal. Bent out about 50% of the circumference and then just lifted it off. Then I used channel-lock pliers to crimp it back on again. Then put a sealer all the way around to keep moisture out.
Here you can see the lid with edge bent out:

[Petro]

Olley;

I was thinking about the Split Charge Relay. How would that effect the starter boost function Winni uses to assist when chassis battery is low?

Don

[olley]

Hi Don that particular split charge relay I gave the link to, can also be operated manually with the battery boost switch.

Olley