Strange dashboard warning lights and Kwikee Step

Tony65 · 04-06-2021, 05:11 PM

Hi! Some days I get a strange thing.

With the vehicle stationary and the ignition key removed, all dashboard warning lights come on when the access step extends or retracts.

Other times it happens that after the step is closed the warning lights come on one at a time and continue to do so if I don't insert the key, turn on the ignition and turn off again.

I was thinking of a false contact on the ignition lock but I have seen that the problem recurs too often.

I'm taking a look at the electrical diagrams to understand where the problem might be but still haven't found anything.

Has this happened to any of you?

imnprsd · 04-06-2021, 05:41 PM

I can't say for sure, but maybe:

* The constant power to your steps comes from your ignition key? IDK.

* Does your outside light also flicker?

* Does your ignition key wiggle suggesting it needs replacing? Note: Your power to the ECM goes through the ignition and this could be a warning sign you should replace the ignition key switch (not the key cylinder). This is an easy process and you can watch this video on how to do it:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WOD0jyZSkDY

==> But my guess is that you just need to clean the 4-wire step plug... and clean the ground wire connection to the frame...and/or add an additional ground wire.

==> I my mind, if current find a good ground it's going to try another path; and that may be the momentary lights you in your instrument panel, but that's just a guess.

Please keep us posted as to what fixes your problem.

Tony65 · 04-06-2021, 06:20 PM

Imnprsd, thank you for your kind and detailed reply, I will do a check and tomorrow I will post an illustrative video.

SmilingSimon · 04-07-2021, 12:40 AM

obviously the steps are connected to the ignition, that is how it 'knows' to bring steps in when ignition goes on - i ALWAYS listen for the steps going in when ignition switched on - steps out is NOT good.

I suspect that single wire from steps to ignition may be touching ground/chassis or mo likely just a bit flaky.

always disconnect and re connect a connection that is out in the weather such as is the step connector, even spray contact cleaner on plug and connector - connectors always the weak link in wiring.

check both ends of wires, start at steps and make sure the ground there is solid to chassis, tighten and retighten bolt/screw, then check the wire as it goes toward ignition, hopefully in plastic wire protector sheath so you lose sight of it in hurry and then check at ignition switch - but it may go thru the fuse box first.

check ALL fuses (while there) and pull/reseat as fuses can have bad contact over time, reseating should be all it takes, but wipe/clean the fuses ends while at it - can prevent other issues later for something else - prevention is GOOD.

GL

Tony65 · 04-07-2021, 04:04 PM

It's incredible! I tried to make a video but now everything works perfectly. I'll try again.

Tony65 · 04-08-2021, 01:00 PM

I did as imnprsd advised, pulled out the ignition lock, sprayed some WD40 and cleaned the seat.

For now, the problem has not returned.

We hope everything goes well.

In the meantime, I took advantage of the checks on the electrical system to replace the electric actuator of the entrance door.

Unfortunately, the original spare part is now unavailable and I had to spend a couple of hours to adapt a universal actuator for cars.

The original seemed much more robust than the replacement, unfortunately we have to settle for it.

For now, the electronic lock has started working perfectly again, even with the remote control.

Thanks for your advice.

Wayne M · 04-09-2021, 10:36 PM

Ignition turned off, key removed, steps will still go out and come in when the step switch is in the ON position. If the step switch is in the OFF position, when the door is opened the step will extend and stay out when the door is closed. Get back in, turn key to ignition, step will come in.

There is always a constant current to the step, limited only by the electronic current limiting switch but fully extended or fully retracted, current is always there if the step switch is in the ON position.

LadyFaire · 04-16-2021, 07:56 AM

I'm not sure if this thread is the proper one for my problem, but it IS my steps that are giving me fits. For a while, the steps didn't RETRACT completely when parked and engine off. Not too badly 'out', but some. Occasionally, if I cycled the step on/off switch and then opened and closed the door, they would retract all the way. Now, however, the steps don't move at all, no matter which position the switch is in. They are currently fully extended. I am going to go out and start the coach and put it into gear and see if the 'fail-safe' still works and will retract them. I suppose that I might have to replace the motor - not sure, but if the fail-safe doesn't retract them, then a new motor WILL be an immediate problem.

SmilingSimon · 04-16-2021, 04:38 PM

always start with making sure the ground (green) wire from step controller is making good contact to chassis, loosen and retighten especially make sure chassis side is not rusty.

second, disconnect and clean the controller plug/connector with all the wires, connect and reconnect a few times to make sure good connection.

Then see what you have, being on outside in rain and muck, steps can easily just have bad connections.

grease your step joints too, if too much resistance they will stop for safety

GL

Quote:

Originally Posted by LadyFaire

I'm not sure if this thread is the proper one for my problem, but it IS my steps that are giving me fits. For a while, the steps didn't RETRACT completely when parked and engine off. Not too badly 'out', but some. Occasionally, if I cycled the step on/off switch and then opened and closed the door, they would retract all the way. Now, however, the steps don't move at all, no matter which position the switch is in. They are currently fully extended. I am going to go out and start the coach and put it into gear and see if the 'fail-safe' still works and will retract them. I suppose that I might have to replace the motor - not sure, but if the fail-safe doesn't retract them, then a new motor WILL be an immediate problem.

LadyFaire · 04-16-2021, 04:49 PM

We found the problem!! Believe it or not, the (engine) battery was dead. I have no clue as to what drained it, but we have the coach started and running (half hour for a bit of a charge) and we will be visiting our favorite battery shop to replace the battery. SO surprised that the fix was so simply and confused as to why the battery died. The coach/house batteries are just fully charged and fine. Wonder why the steps are powered by the engine battery. Any clues?

SmilingSimon · 04-16-2021, 05:01 PM

likely NOT the battery but the isolation relay/device, that is how it always appears, dead chassis battery, can be drained by the house batteries, that is the purpose to isolate !

check the chassis isolation relay - $16 for part on ebay, 2x from local auto parts !

easy to replace, take a picture of wiring if a relay, just 3 wires, and obviously disconnect all batteries.

should be obvious what to do.

GL!

imnprsd · 04-16-2021, 07:18 PM

SmilingSimon is on point. I have never replaced the relay so I would appreciate it very much if you posted a picture.

...Also, be sure to oil up those pivot points so you don't have added drag going in and out.

When my steps don't want to fully close, or close tighter on one side vs. the other; or if it extends 95% of the way out, then I know I need to lubricate the pivot points with what ever lubricant I have in reach, but I think motor oil is the best. I tend to use a chain lube.

LadyFaire · 04-16-2021, 10:06 PM

I have no idea what an isolation relay IS. Or where to find it. We've been trying to figure out what is draining the battery, but can find nothing 'on'. The house batteries are located in the same compartment (under the inside steps) with the engine battery, but I saw no connection between them. The test panel shows the house batteries as fully charged, which I would expect as the coach is on a shore line and that is one of the functions, yes?

SmilingSimon · 04-16-2021, 11:48 PM

If like mine then look a bit more under steps, a metal panel behind a pull out carpeted panel, and the isolation relay is there, also likely the house battery disconnect too, they are the same for mine, but newer ones can have semi-conductor versions.

mine are solenoid based it takes 12v to change their state on/off via some switch, ignition for chassis, a manual sw for house.

when ignition is off, it keeps the house battery from parasitically draining off the chassis battery.

the isolation relay is just as if you disconnect the chassis battery, then house can not draw it off.

the house disconnect has a switch somewhere to operate its isolation relay, disconnects those batteries from any other system which can drain them as well, done when storing mh for a while.

GL!

Quote:

Originally Posted by LadyFaire

I have no idea what an isolation relay IS. Or where to find it. We've been trying to figure out what is draining the battery, but can find nothing 'on'. The house batteries are located in the same compartment (under the inside steps) with the engine battery, but I saw no connection between them. The test panel shows the house batteries as fully charged, which I would expect as the coach is on a shore line and that is one of the functions, yes?

LadyFaire · 04-17-2021, 06:06 AM

My coach is a 2005 Sightseer 30B. I'll open the battery compartment today when I check to see if the charge we gave the engine battery 'took'. Appreciate the heads up, thank you!

Tony65 · 04-17-2021, 03:56 PM

Update:

Hi! After cleaning the contacts of the ignition switch problem has come back only once.

I found that the starter batteries were exhaling their last breath.

I have replaced them and now everything works fine.

My suspicion is that the defect was caused by an uncertain battery voltage rather than the ignition lock contacts.

I will continue to be careful, but now the next goal will be to install the SuperSteer Motion Control Units.