Transfer Switch

Matticefamil · 11-18-2018, 08:44 AM

Since 2013 when new I have replaced my electric transfer switch two times and it appears the switch has failed again since I now only have 110 volt power in parts of my motorhome. Anyone have an insight on this repeat repair item?

Morich · 11-18-2018, 09:52 AM

Posting year, type and model of the RV can help to cut the chase. I do not have info on the problem.

Meridian42e · 11-18-2018, 11:13 AM

And the model of the transfer switch.

Podivin · 11-18-2018, 12:42 PM

There is an oft repeated statement (that is equally often disagreed with) that switching from shore power to generator while high draw appliances are running causes arcing inside the transfer switch, which leads to premature failure.
So now the question, do you switch power sources with things like the air conditioner or electric water heater powered up?

Matticefamil · 11-19-2018, 08:38 AM

Sorry I've been a bit under the weather. My rig is a 2013 Adventurer with the gas v10 engine. The unit had a Progressive Dynamics model PD52 transfer switch. I never switch between shore power and generator without turning off all major appliances etc. I am however a stickler about running the generator regularly/monthly wherever we are. So as a result the switch is activated regularly also. Just wondering if anyone else has this kind of issue and or recommendations? Thanks for your help.

Morich · 11-19-2018, 09:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Podivin

There is an oft repeated statement (that is equally often disagreed with) that switching from shore power to generator while high draw appliances are running causes arcing inside the transfer switch, which leads to premature failure.
So now the question, do you switch power sources with things like the air conditioner or electric water heater powered up?

Yes, I can see where this would often cause disagreement as there are two ways to look at the question. In industry, it would be assumed that equipment would not be shut down before power was transferred. Just not practical to go around and shut everything off and many times the transfer is done at remote sites where there is nobody even there. Sewer lift stations, radio sires, etc?
So we know that the contacts are designed to switch with power on them and still last. So that leaves the question of how much work and design is done to make the items we get in RV's as good as industry. I would guess the prime objective might be to lower cost more than to make things last so I would recommend going for turning things off if I am there and then do the switch.

Totally out of my experience but is it normal to only power a portion of the 110 Ac when running on generator? At this point, I've not got that far but had assumed it would all transfer and that would bring the question of whether the transfer switch is the true problem or if it is more likely a blown fuse that cuts part of the power. But then I'm prone to chasing wild geese so can you tell us more about what Ac is lost, if not all, and perhaps more info on how it is determined that it is the transfer switch?
Not saying that it is not correct but I like to chase down ALL the possibilities. Bad design as well as bad repairs are both possible and sometimes it is hard to tell which is more likely.

Pianotuna · 11-25-2018, 04:12 PM

switching a 'home use' transfer switch under any load is a recipe for disaster. For 23 amps I'd recommend one rated for 75 amps--100 would be even better.

greyeagleb · 11-25-2018, 05:11 PM

I had a similar issue on my 2013 Winnebago Sightseer. I called and talked with the techs at Winnebago and they told me the most common problem was a poorly installed ATS in the first place. He recommended switching to a TRC 50 amp model and told me the key issue that he has seen is improperly torqued wires. He gave me the specs, but I do not have them handy, but they came with the ATS as well. My torque wrenches only had ft/lbs and the specs called for inch/lbs, so I had to borrow one. My first model (Progressive Dynamics) always hummed, I actually took it in under warranty when I first got it because it was so loud, but they said a switch is suppose to hum, and did nothing. The new switch does hum, but you can't hear it inside the rig, just slightly when I have the bay door open outside.

Also, I talked with the techs at TRC and they were very helpful, but the key thing they told me was to get either an ATS with full protection (over/under voltage, open neutral, open ground, etc) or get a RV Surge Protector, which I did. I got the Progressive Industries EMS-PT50X.

I never figured out what caused my problem, but suspect it may of had something to do with the power pedestal at the campground, just can't prove it.

Hope this helps, and good luck.

Matticefamil · 11-25-2018, 05:56 PM

Thanks for your advice. I will look into the TRC 50 as a replacement this time. My only issue is that I have an extended warranty and not sure if they will like the new brand. I'll surely find out. They will likely be asking lots of questions this time since they paid for the previous replacement unit. I have an appointment for that service on Dec 12th. Thanks again.

jerichorick · 11-25-2018, 06:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Matticefamil

Since 2013 when new I have replaced my electric transfer switch two times and it appears the switch has failed again since I now only have 110 volt power in parts of my motorhome. Anyone have an insight on this repeat repair item?

Did you install the first replacement or have a shop do it?
ATS failures are, as already stated, often caused by poor connections or heavy load switching.

All good ATS units have a connect delay built in to give the generator time to stabilize. On switch back I don't think this is true. In any case, stopping the generator under a heavy load, even a light one, is not a good idea. It is very hard on the equipment, that running and the supply. Shutting the loads down before disconnecting power is only good RVing practice.
DonRowe is a good company. Here is what they offer: https://www.donrowe.com/PowerMax-PMT...-p/pmts-50.htm
If you have relays in your ATS try burnishing the contacts if you can get to them.

Matticefamil · 11-25-2018, 07:14 PM

No I had a shop change it both times. Once in CT and once in FL where I plan to have it changed again. As I've said before, I do make sure all appliances are off before switching. Although the most recent event happened during the night and had nothing to do with switching over. Since I have tried with just the generator and separately with shore power and still don't have power throughout the motorhome. I have checked all the breakers etc and still got the problem. Once I get it back from the shop I'll post the solution. Thanks

greyeagleb · 11-25-2018, 10:51 PM

Just a quick note to let you know that Winnebago was the one recommending a different brand. Good luck.

Matticefamil · 11-26-2018, 05:36 AM

Thanks

jerichorick · 11-26-2018, 06:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Matticefamil

No I had a shop change it both times. Once in CT and once in FL where I plan to have it changed again. As I've said before, I do make sure all appliances are off before switching. Although the most recent event happened during the night and had nothing to do with switching over. Since I have tried with just the generator and separately with shore power and still don't have power throughout the motorhome. I have checked all the breakers etc and still got the problem. Once I get it back from the shop I'll post the solution. Thanks

I am wondering what your symptoms are that lead to the conclusion that the ATS is belly up?

Matticefamil · 11-26-2018, 09:41 AM

Actually I haven't had it diagnosed by the RV repair folks yet. I have an appointment 12/12. The symptoms are same as previous failures. After I have checked and reset all 110 volt breakers within the unit I have lost the power to several outlets etc. Time will tell.

jerichorick · 11-27-2018, 06:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Matticefamil

Actually I haven't had it diagnosed by the RV repair folks yet. I have an appointment 12/12. The symptoms are same as previous failures. After I have checked and reset all 110 volt breakers within the unit I have lost the power to several outlets etc. Time will tell.

Are you handy at all? May we guide you through a few easy tests? Can you use a volt meter and do you own one?
I have seen where a tripped GFCI will cause several outlets not to work. Also, a failed inverter can cause this problem.

Rick Y

Matticefamil · 11-27-2018, 08:12 AM

Thanks for that thought Rick. I hadn't thought of the GFI outlets. I'll check that out. I do have a volt meter.

Morich · 11-27-2018, 08:38 AM

Quite common for any outlet near bath or kitchen as well as any outside to be worked through one single GFCI. In an RV, it can be easier to spot but when it happens at home it may require running several places to look. Easier to fix than to think of when first looking?

Matticefamil · 11-27-2018, 08:52 AM

Thanks

Matticefamil · 11-27-2018, 11:40 AM

Hey guys, thanks so much for all the helpful suggestions. I have determined that on of my GFCI outlets had tripped. Once I reset it I seem to have electricity everywhere. You guys saved me a $ trip for service that ended up just a reset. The particular GFCI was a hidden one that I was unaware of at my inverter which is located in an underside storage bin.
Thanks again to you all.