TV Project (2003 Sunrise 36M)

RzRzRzR · 04-14-2018, 10:10 AM

So in about an hour, I was able to remove the 135 watt 75 pound TV yesterday.

Now I need to see about removing the heavy steel frame it was mounted in, before doing some carpentry and replacing it with a suitable flat screen.

Has anyone else removed that steel frame (see last picture below)?

RzRzRzR · 04-19-2018, 08:19 AM

I now have everything removed. First, I popped open the decorative covers on the four screws holding up the plastic bottom cover (upside-down doghouse) and there were regular Phillips-head screws there too. That came off very easily, and there was enough slack in the wire for the dome light, that I could set it on the dash to remove the dome light fixture.

About another hour spent yesterday, mostly because the six Phillips-head screws at the top of the metal frame are difficult to access with a regular screwdriver. The other seven Phillips-head screws were easy to access. The frame itself weights at least 20 pounds.

The opening is 29" wide, and the new (used from freecycle) Element brand flat screen TV is 31" wide, so I will have some overlap, but it should still fit nicely between the two cabinet doors, and--it only weighs 17 pounds!

One thing I noticed is there is only a very thin layer of spray insulation in this area. Thin enough for sunlight to show through. I saw another post here about equipment overheating, so I will probably add some Reflectix insulation I have left over from another project, as well as leave space for a fan or two. I'll post pictures of that work as well.

Next will be the bracket for the flat screen...

AKIQPilot · 04-19-2018, 02:35 PM

Very nice. You are doing a good job. This will look great when you are all done.

I went the easy route when I replaced the TV in our Itasca 35U. I just removed the old TV and bolted the articulating multi angle mount directly to the steel frame on the left hand side. I put the plastic fascia back in place. I attached a 42" slim LCD smart tv to the mount. I use a bungee attached to the mount to pull the TV snugly against the plastic fascia. It doesn't move even slightly going down the road. The 42" tv probably seems large but because of the 16:9 aspect ratio you need a large TV to be able to display the same image size as the original 5:4 Tube TV. I use the space behind the TV for storage for things like helmets and larger items.

Your set up will look great once you are done. Getting rid of the big lump sticking below the overhead console will also be nice. Keep posting pictures of your work. This will really help others who want to do the same thing.

RzRzRzR · 04-27-2018, 02:58 PM

Okay another two hours of work and I'm done. I first insulated the overhead using some leftover Reflectix from another project (pic 1). I was worried that my hotspot would not get a signal through it but it works fine. Next, I installed a 1/4" metal plate (not shown) behind the existing sheet metal and a 12"x6"x3/4" board to support the mounting arm (pic 2). There are seven 3"x1/4" bolts in total. I used Nyloc nuts so they don't vibrate out.

I added a 29"x4"x3/4" board at the top, to match the existing cabinets, another 29"x12"x3/4" board for the bottom, which left enough space for the back of the new (used from Freecycle) flat-screen TV, which is an older unit about 3-1/2" thick (and only weighs 17 pounds). When this TV goes out I will get a 12v TV with a built-in DVD player to replace it, which should be relatively simple.

For the very front, I used a leftover piece of aluminum vent cover (pics 2 and 4) since I see others are having a heat problem in this area and I plan to install my upgraded backup camera equipment (and video recorder) in this area. Also in pic 2 you can see I put the cables in a corrugated plastic tube which was leftover from installing my home surveillance system.

The original antenna selection switch is gone, and the (used) Roku fits nicely where that switch was located (pic 3). Note that the Roku and the hotspot both run on 12vdc, so I reused the 12v line for the antenna amplifier to run the both Roku and the hotspot (not shown - it sits on top of the DVD player that came with the RV). I went with the "traditional" Winnebago Velcro strips for the Roku, DVD player, and the hotspot.

Total cost: $ 21.00 US - for the TV mounting bracket from the local Goodwill store. Total time: about six hours, and at least two hours of that time was for measuring and re-measuring. I'm pleased with the results, and she's happy I'm done with it. The last picture compares before and after.

I'm open to questions or suggestions for improvements.

Coach Rock · 06-17-2018, 10:03 AM

Thanks for all the pics. These will be helpful as I plan to do same in my 01 Adventurer.

Blkbart · 08-08-2019, 03:17 PM

[just went out to look at my 2003 Itasca 34HD. The metal frame for the TV is welded in... Do I need to take a more thorough look?

Blkbart · 08-08-2019, 03:20 PM

Got excited viewing your post, just went out to look at my 2003 Itasca 34HD. The metal frame for the TV appears to be welded in... Do I need to take a more thorough look?

Blkbart · 08-10-2019, 04:03 PM

Looking to hand my LED TV from my ceiling across from the power couch/sofa. Placing it over the window over the swivel rocker. It will swing down fro the top/ceiling towards the window. I’m seeking advice on locating something substantial for the hanging mount. Any ideas on finding or locating these substantial points? I have the older carpet appearing ceiling.
Thanks,
Bart

AFlugstad · 12-12-2019, 05:21 PM

I first removed the entire TV Shroud including the metal frame. I then cut 3/4 inch plywood using the previous shroud as a template to cover the bottom (See pic with the center speaker attached) and covered it with vinyl to match. I then did the same for the front leaving access for the cables, and using a standard wall mount. The new LED Tvs are vary light, and the mount is sturdy.

mdka99 · 12-12-2019, 06:04 PM

I had read in other posts that the metal frame is part of the integral strength of the cab structure so I left it intact. After I removed the old tv I bolted a piece of engineered 2 x 10 across the back of the metal frame. To this a screwed an articulated tv mount and tv and have it pulled tight with a strap. I used a 32 inch smart tv because it seemed to fit between the overhead doors on both sides. 2 years now and have had no trouble.

2004 Adventurer 35u

AFlugstad · 12-12-2019, 09:19 PM

When I started taking it apart, I didn't see it being all that structural. Keep in mind that the original configuration had to support a 50 to 70 pound tv over your head. The newer led the weigh 10 to 20 pounds.

Blkbart · 12-19-2019, 11:26 PM

Awesome idea! Thanks so much for sharing.
Bart

Skipperphil · 05-11-2020, 03:18 PM

Interesting to see the pictures after original TV was removed. When we got our 2001 Adventurer the PO had replaced the old TV with a new flat one. I noticed in both pictures the antenna cable in coming from near the center of the space at the top. Did anyone try to run new cable? The original cable in ours is RG 59. Signal is marginal to our TV and part of it I think is bad cable. The cable that comes out of the roof seems to have slack, but haven't tried yet to replace it. Looks like about a 10' run inside the roof. Other issues need fixing as well, a bad amplifier switch and maybe the antenna head it self, but getting cable from the antenna mount to the space behind the TV is the mane problem/question I have.
Thanks, Phil