03 Adventurer 38G paint roof ?

barshot · 02-20-2020, 04:13 PM

I've been looking to find if I should paint my roof, if so, is there a material recommended by Winnebago? I've heard paint, rubber coating or no paint at all needed. The sealer on all of my vents, antennas etc look good. All of the threads I've found are about sealing vents, antennas etc.

Jim_HiTek · 02-20-2020, 08:51 PM

It's a Winnie, it has a semi-formed one piece fiberglass roof...so no, you should not paint it.

Here's a link to my blog where I cover some of the things I decided to do to my roof to prevent leaks, my caulking around vents and such is like yours, in very good condition and so far I have only needed to check it. But the front and rear seams, as well as the seams along the sides, all got the Eternabond treatment to prevent leaks, and to prevent the roof from ripping off: Roof and Roof Items...

Bones2003 · 02-21-2020, 09:52 AM

I think it depends on the condition of your roof. In 2014, I bought a 2003 Itasca Sunova that has the one piece fiberglass roof. It is not painted to match the color of the coach. As far as I can tell, the coach was always stored outdoors and never had a cover on it. My roof looked like it was developing micro-cracks and the glass fibers appeared to be flaking off. Whenever I knelt on the roof while wearing shorts my knees would itch from the glass fibers. In 2015, I coated the roof with the Dicor coating for fiberglass roofs. I have done no other maintenance to the roof since then except to make sure the fixtures are caulked and the roof edge is sealed. It still looks a great bright white and cleans easily. If you decide to use it, follow the instructions carefully and don't scrimp on the prep. I am not at all connected with Dicor and I am sure there are other products that work just well.

Jim_HiTek · 02-21-2020, 01:21 PM

@Bones2003: Interesting. Don't think I've read a roof story quite like that before. Sounds like the fiberglass was defective. Good that there's a fix for it. Dicor has a good name too.

Bones2003 · 02-21-2020, 06:40 PM

Back in 2015 when I was researching the problem, I found quite a few posts on various forums about the fibers starting to be exposed so it seemed somewhat of a common problem at the time. Also, I have no idea what type of aggressive cleaners the previous owner may have used on the roof. In any case, I am very satisfied with the Dicor product and we love our coach.

RightUR · 02-22-2020, 02:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by barshot

I've been looking to find if I should paint my roof, if so, is there a material recommended by Winnebago? I've heard paint, rubber coating or no paint at all needed. The sealer on all of my vents, antennas etc look good. All of the threads I've found are about sealing vents, antennas etc.

Well I don't know what size rig you have or how much you're willing to spend. However I heard of and saw and touched 2 good products: Vortex coating for Rv's and RV armor roofing. RV Armor has a lifetime guarantee. Vortex coating can withstand 3000 psi (concrete is 3500) if you leave that roof in a hail storm you won't have a scratch. Maybe this should be under the category:" Have you ever considered?" LOL.

ftodaro · 02-26-2020, 05:31 PM

Why don't you post a few pictures of your roof and what your concern is. At this point we are all guessing. My roof is 19 years old and a few years ago, i compounded it and now I was 2x per year and is shines like glass. you can paint fiberglass with roof products but I guess the question is what are you trying to fix?

Davel · 02-26-2020, 06:16 PM

My friend paid extra to have his roof painted and has a lot less black streaks since.
Dave

FIRE UP · 02-26-2020, 11:38 PM

Well,
A Winne or Itasca fiberglass roof is just like anything that has failed to have maintenance on it. It will show signs of age and degradation. For the most part, it's pure lack of effort in maintaining them. And maintaining them is not hard. I too have taken just a bit of time and effort to wash and scrub it, then, get out the buffer (not a cheap POS $29 auto parts random one), it's a professional DeWalt Sander/polisher. I used a wool pad and 3M polishing compound.

At the end of two days, that roof looked like a mirror. It lasted like that for around 3-5 years. Now, although it's in great shape and does not chalk, it's time for it again to be buffed. I wouldn't paint a fiberglass roof if I was paid to. Everyone's got to do what they feel is correct for their coach. Now, it's always brought up that those roofs will be slippery when put into the condition of a polished one. OF COURSE they're gonna be slippery, DUHHHHHHH!

No one says to get up there and start dancing around in a rain storm. Geeze, some COMMON sense is the name of the game here. But, with a little (or a lot, depending on your outlook) of effort, your roof can look great and, will still be preserved WITHOUT any form of coating on it which, prevents accurate inspections. Your choice.
Scott

deucehotrods · 02-27-2020, 12:34 AM

Fiberglass, especially the fiberglass Winnebago roof, has a thin layer of gel coat that will deteriorate over time, especially with high UV exposure. It would need regular maintenance with a gel coat restorer to keep it from breaking down and in good condition, just like the rest of a motorhome without full body paint does.

I did a lot of reading and found a product used on all types of roofs, including RV roofs made of fiberglass, aluminum and rubber with great success. I decided to use this method to preserve the roof of my 2005 Winnebago Adventurer 38R and gain substantial energy savings by coating the roof with Tropi-Cool 100% Silicone White Roof Coating. This coating is extremely tough, easy to apply and reflects radiant heat and UV from the sun to keep your interior much cooler. I have read that it prevents almost 90% of radiant heat transmission and I believe it after having it on my motorhome. It will also prevent those annoying white streaks down the side of your coach from the deteriorating gel coat.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Henry-4-...S018/205049553

You will need to be comfortable working on the roof of your motorhome for a few days, and it is a fair amount of strenuous work.

The first day I pressure washed and scrubbed the roof with soap and a stiff bristle brush, rinsing it thoroughly. I even wiped it dry with old bath towels. Make sure any wax or shine is removed, even using a 3M red Scotchbrite pad around the perimeter of the roof if you have to, so that it sticks well at the edges.

I purchased a 4.75 gallon bucket of Henry 887 Tropi-Cool 100% Silicone White Roof Coating from Home Depot for $239.00 along with several of the recommended non-shedding roller covers and brushes. You can also buy it in one gallon pails and return what you don't use. It went further than I expected, probably because of the smooth surface, rather than the normal roofing material it is primarily used on. I expected to use all of it but only used about 3 gallons with 2 heavy coats on my 300 sq. ft. It will also seal most small leaks and cracks.

The second day I made sure the roof was completely dry with no soap residue. I then masked off the perimeter of the roof and all protrusions as needed with 2" blue masking tape. I power mixed it thoroughly with a drill and mixer. I then applied a thick coat of the coating from the front to the rear (all 38'), using a 8' ladder at the rear. At first I tried using a large paint tray but since you use a lot of product it just slowed me down and made a mess trying to refill it so I just started dipping the 9" roller into the bucket and applying it to the roof. Do this a no wind, calm day or you'll have this stuff everywhere and all over you! Turn the roller several times to keep from dripping before you get it down to the roof. Use disposable coveralls or old shoes and clothes, long sleeve shirts and jeans with disposable nitrile gloves. I've used a lot of different products over the years, but this stuff sticks like super glue, and if you get it on your skin, expect to wear it about a week or more (ask me how I know this!). This stuff is basically pure silicone rubber.

The third day I checked to see if it was dry enough and not sticky to apply a second and final coat. If you have bugs in the air, expect to find them in the first coat. Just rub them off with a rag and paint over them. You'll be done a lot quicker this time. At the end of the day, or early the next day use an 8' step ladder and remove the masking tape around the perimeter of the roof. Be very careful pulling the masking tape off, pulling it away from the coating, or cutting the edge with a razor knife to keep from pulling up the coating before it cures. If you can reach any of the masked off protrusions, pull them off too.

The first thing you'll notice is that it is a highly reflective, brilliant white coating that is always cool to the touch, even in the hottest sun. I live in Arizona at 5300' elevation and the sun is brutal here, although our temperatures rarely reach a 100 degrees. You can even stand on it barefoot under the full sun of the day.

I used about 3 gallons of the 4.75 gallon pail, and once it is opened and exposed to air it won't keep very long. Rather than waste the remaining gallons, I decided to coat the roof of my Featherlite 20' enclosed trailer too. It has a one piece aluminum roof and accepted the coating equally well. This a one time, lifetime coating from everything I've seen.

Read the reviews on Home Depot and other sites and you'll find other people have used it on all types of RV's with great results. I would post pictures of it but I have the full cover on it now for winter, but I have included a few pics from customers reviews on Home Depot.

Here is more information on the product.

Henry 887 Tropi-Cool 100% Silicone White Roof Coating is a premium, 100% silicone, moisture-cure coating designed to reflect the sun's heat and UV rays as well as protect many types of roofs. While suitable for use in all climates, the 100% silicone chemistry is especially suited for extreme tropical environments, which are exposed to some of the hottest and wettest weather with intense UV exposure. It is specially designed to maintain maximum reflectivity of heat and UV rays as it ages. Its moisture-cure chemistry creates a very aggressive chemical bond with the roof, which allows for permanent ponding water resistance, extreme durability, and superior capabilities of sealing and protection.

ENERGY STAR certified and CRRC (Cool Roof Rating Council) rated
Meets the requirements of CEC (California Energy Commission) title 24
Miami-Dade county approved and Florida approved
Excellent adhesion and flexibility
Superior UV resistance and weathering performance
Mold and mildew resistant
Wide application temperature range from 35°F to 120°F (2°C to 49°C)
Lifetime limited warranty with 1-coat application

Details

Application Method: Brush On, Roll On, Spray On
Approximate Coverage Per Gallon (sq. ft): 67
Coating Base: Silicone
Color Family: White
Container type: 1 gallon or 4.75 gallon Pail
Dry Time: 6 hours

Park Super · 02-27-2020, 09:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by barshot

I've been looking to find if I should paint my roof, if so, is there a material recommended by Winnebago? I've heard paint, rubber coating or no paint at all needed. The sealer on all of my vents, antennas etc look good. All of the threads I've found are about sealing vents, antennas etc.

Here is a link for you. Paint or sealer is not the answer. Wax is the correct way to maintain your fiberglass roof. Be sure and look at the roof cove joints as well as the vents

https://www.winnieowners.com/forums/...up-356406.html

deucehotrods · 02-27-2020, 04:55 PM

Apparently you cited the wrong link, that is about repairing the roof joint where the roof is was coming out of the side rail. I didn't read anything about waxing the roof there.

If you decide to use wax, make sure it is specially formulated for fiberglass and do it regularly. Usually a Marine product works the best. With a roof coating I wanted to get the benefit of blocking the radiant heat and reducing the air conditioning load with the added benefit of a maintenance free lifetime coating. I got very tired of buffing my previous motorhome, a Monaco Class A with a full gel coat exterior, prior to my Winnebago with full body paint, which is much easier to maintain.

Park Super · 02-28-2020, 07:56 AM

No, just wanted to bring that to the op's attention. Here is a wonderful discussion concerning fiberglass roof maintenance with lots of opinions, mine included. On page 4 or 5 there is a Winnebago factory recommended procedure for the roof. I suppose everyone will make their own decisions but I will stick to the factory recommended procedure. Yes waxing is a PINA but its gel coat and it must be done.

https://www.irv2.com/forums/f278/fib...of-475978.html

And I quote
"As we were getting a lot of different ideas, and some to the extremes for how to take care of a new fiberglass roof, I sent a letter to Crane Composites who makes the Filon Fiberglass Roof, and Winnebago my RV Mfg. Both were quick to respond with the exact same official document for maintenance and care procedures for Fiberglass and Gelcoat on RV. See attached pdf.

RESTORING GLOSS
Materials
• Meguiar’s: #49 Heavy Duty Oxidation Remover
• Meguiar’s #50 Boat and RV Cleaner Wax Liquid or a Mild detergent and water
• Meguiar’s: #56 Boat and RV Pure Wax
• Soft cotton cloth
• Mechanical buffer (optional)
Procedure
1. Wash the Crane Composites RV panel with a mild detergent and water.
2. Dry the Crane Composites RV panel with a clean, soft cotton cloth.
3. Apply heavy duty cleaner by following the directions on the container. (If a buffer is available, substitute polishing
compound for heavy duty cleaner and buff polishing compound lightly).
4. Wash the Crane Composites RV panel with water and dry the surface.
5. Apply car wax per directions.

I then questioned both if the procedure was specifically meant to cover the side walls and roof? Winnebago referred me directly to Crane for anything outside of that document. That made sense to me. When I talked with Crane, I got the below in writing.

According to our Quality team the roof material has the same gel coat as the side walls, it would have the same maintenance requirements as mentioned in the brochure. We believe what you have done was adequate (wash and wax)."

RightUR · 02-28-2020, 02:22 PM

Great Great Job Deuce. I see you have a 2005. How old was your rig when you applied this Coating?

RightUR · 02-28-2020, 02:50 PM

Park super...Good stuff. I think on winnebagoind.com it also recommends how to maintain the roof in the owner's manuals. No doubt this Maguires stuff is good. But Maguaire Aslo recommends to apply it 3-4 times a yr. Yeah, lol, maybe when I was still in my 20s,30s and 40s. But at my age I'm not buffing out 400sq ft of anything 3-4 times a yr. I have no problems getting on my roof 5-6 times a yr and using a detergent with a wax compound in it, but buffing. No sir. LOL. I mean, I get it, to each his/her own. What ever makes a person happy. But duece brought up a valid point. He pretty much has a maintenance free roof for the next 5-10 yrs or more. Sure beats getting up there 4x a yrs and doing some back breaking buffing. But that's just me. Hope I didn't offend anybody.

deucehotrods · 02-28-2020, 03:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RightUR

Great Great Job Deuce. I see you have a 2005. How old was your rig when you applied this Coating?

I bought my 2005 Adventurer 38R about a year ago with just 12,000 miles on it and then put 7000 trouble free miles on it last summer, so it was about 14 years old. It was in new condition and had been kept inside or under a roof its whole life so the full body paint and the fiberglass roof were in good shape. Since I was getting white streaks coming down the sides off the fiberglass roof I wanted to either wax it or coat it. Prior to doing that though, for some reason the entire roof was covered by fly sh**, so I spent two days scrubbing it off before I did anything. If I would have buffed it, I'm sure it would have looked great but I didn't want to keep doing it every year. Maybe that influenced my decision since I have spent too many days buffing my previous Monaco coach, since it was an all gel coat finish, so that's why I went with the coating keep it cooler inside and make the roof maintenance free. I also wanted to just keep my buffing to the minimum of waxing the full body paint on the Adventurer, which is much easier than buffing gelcoat. I have always done all my own work because I usually am unhappy with the quality and price of someone else doing it. I love the Adventurer and I'm sure it will be my last motorhome, so as I approach 70's, I'd like to spend less time on the roof! You, know what they say about ladders and old guys, they are good way to shorten your life!

RightUR · 03-01-2020, 04:08 PM

duecehot....Very nice. Thanks for the great info. I appreciate it. Now you got me thinking, But since i'm a procrastinator....I'm thinking well your rig was 14 yrs old when you did this. Mine is 8 right now...that gives me 6 more yrs to think about doing this. LOL.

I guess I can take my time.