04 Journey questions

the4js · 11-29-2011, 10:36 PM

Wow I just read the rust thread, thats kind of worrysome. Especially after spending a wad of cash on these rigs.

Anyways where can I find some programming instruction/ how to use on the info center. There is no brand name on this thing .

When my coach is going down the road straight, the steering wheel is in the 1 oclock position. seems like there is a lot of play in it as well. Is this something I an fix or do I have to take it to the Freightliner guys?

Also Id like to change the belts on the motor. Has anybody attempted this or is this a job for Catapiller?

emiddleb · 11-29-2011, 11:15 PM

If by the "info center" you mean the Trip Tek (displaying engine info etc) then you can download manuals here.

Coretronics, Inc - Trip Tek Motor Coach Computer & Smart Tire Pressure Monitoring

I believe (but not certain) that you have the 2500 model in your '04.

the4js · 11-29-2011, 11:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by emiddleb

If by the "info center" you mean the Trip Tek (displaying engine info etc) then you can download manuals here.

Coretronics, Inc - Trip Tek Motor Coach Computer & Smart Tire Pressure Monitoring

I believe (but not certain) that you have the 2500 model in your '04.

It doesnt look like it. Mine has a T, red button and H on the left and a Up, E and Down button on the right.

SVTotem · 11-29-2011, 11:31 PM

The4js,
Welcome to the forum. I have an 05 39k and had similar steering issues when I bought the coach last year. I took it to Freightliner and they sorted it out. Adding a Safey-T-Plus added a firmer feel to the steering.

Depending on your skill level you can change the belts. Awkward to get to, but possible. You might just have Freightliner do it while you are having the steering done.

The Info Center you mentioned may be the MMDC Info Center. Is it a small LCD screen below your right knee? Contact Freightliner in Gaffney, SC. They should be able to point you to some instructions. My rig came with a chassis operators manual that contained that info.

emiddleb · 11-29-2011, 11:42 PM

Ah, ok, you do seem to have the MMDC system.

Try this one...

http://www.rvtechlibrary.com/electro...mdc_owners.pdf

Scroll down about half-way in the doc and see if that looks like yours.

the4js · 11-30-2011, 01:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by emiddleb

Ah, ok, you do seem to have the MMDC system.

Try this one...

http://www.rvtechlibrary.com/electro...mdc_owners.pdf

Scroll down about half-way in the doc and see if that looks like yours.

That seems to be the one. Another question, what kind of sealant does one use to seal the front and rear caps to the sides and roof line?
Is it Winnebago specfic? The stuff the factory used seemes to be the green color to match the coach. Its getting hard and starting to crack so Id like to redo it.

SVTotem · 11-30-2011, 08:34 AM

Thanks for that link, emiddleb.

The4js,
The areas you mention where sealed with self leveling Dicor prior to my ownership. Seems to be working ok and remains soft. It is not visible from ground level. I have heard good comments from folks that have used Eternabond. Try a search on that keyword for more details.

the4js · 11-30-2011, 08:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SVTotem

Thanks for that link, emiddleb.

The4js,
The areas you mention where sealed with self leveling Dicor prior to my ownership. Seems to be working ok and remains soft. It is not visible from ground level. I have heard good comments from folks that have used Eternabond. Try a search on that keyword for more details.

The Dicor stuff works great around the roof penetrations (vents, ladders, satellite and antenas). Im talking about where the front cap overlaps the top front side like above the door and along where the little rain gutter is screwed into the top of the coach. I will try to talke a picture and post it today.

SVTotem · 11-30-2011, 10:46 AM

I think I know the area you speaking of. I have wondered about that myself since it is painted as part of the full body paint. Anything there would be noticeable if not repainted I think.

Let's see if anyone else chimes in with a solution.

1ciderdog · 11-30-2011, 11:02 AM

I've changed the belts on my 39K. It was pretty straight forward - release the pressure on the belt tensioner and remove the serpentine belt. This is done mostly from above from the closet or the opening between the bed and the closet. The second belt is accessed from below and if memory serves me correctly you almost remove an idler pulley or other device to get the belt off the pulley. The belt does fit over the crankshaft pulley which is/was a problem for some of the Cat engines.
Safe Travels
Bob

indiana journey · 11-30-2011, 11:50 AM

Before you replace any of the belts, draw a diagram of the belts and pulleys. That way you will know how they go back on. It sometimes is confusing when the stress level is high.

Good Luck, Indiana Journey

smlranger · 11-30-2011, 02:07 PM

FYI, the sealant recommended by Winnebago for the area you mention (especially on the radius and down the side where a self-leveling sealant will not work) is a urethane seal made by Stone Mason. I could never find it locally so used Geocel Pro Flex clear sealant in that area. Pro Flex is very durable and comes in several colors. Many RV shops and dealers sell Pro Flex as does Camping World.

JC2 · 11-30-2011, 03:31 PM

This stuff is recommended for your roof/gutter edge adhesive needs.
Henry 212 10.1 fl. oz. Clear All-Purpose Patch-HE212202 at The Home Depot

Further info at this link, especially post #28.
http://www.irv2.com/forums/f101/roof...ery-97709.html

Pusherman · 11-30-2011, 08:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by smlranger

FYI, the sealant recommended by Winnebago for the area you mention (especially on the radius and down the side where a self-leveling sealant will not work) is a urethane seal made by Stone Mason. I could never find it locally so used Geocel Pro Flex clear sealant in that area. Pro Flex is very durable and comes in several colors. Many RV shops and dealers sell Pro Flex as does Camping World.

We use the Geocel products as well. Winnebago approves the use of the Geocel products for the front and rear cap seams.

the4js · 12-01-2011, 11:38 PM

Here are the joints I want to re seal.

I might try that Henrys HE 212.

JC2 · 12-02-2011, 02:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by the4js

Here are the joints I want to re seal.

I might try that Henrys HE 212.

There have been numerous past discusions on this forum and others about resealing the area you show but unfortunately I don't have the links readily available. I believe one of the past discussions mentioned using self tapping screws, possibly #8? prior to resealing with some of the adhesives mentioned in earlier posts. A phone call to Winnebago support about this would be a good place to start as I've found them to be very helpful in the past on other matters. http://www.winnebagoind.com/
Another possible source is Lichtsinn Motors, about a mile from the Winnebago plant. Lonnie and David in parts are excellant to deal with. Winnebago, Itasca, Era New - Used Motorhomes for Sale, Iowa RV Dealer - Lichtsinn Motors

I've got some areas on our MH in the areas you show that are needing touch up, some areas have the white sealant and some areas have painted? sealant.

Pusherman · 12-02-2011, 04:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by the4js

Here are the joints I want to re seal.

I resealed my seams last year (Winnie Journey). Used Geocell. It comes in clear, so works well with full body paint.

Make sure you clean out all the old caulk first. Then apply the Geocell.

Roof cap seams should be checked annually, and spot-sealed or replaced as necessary, as recommended by Winnebago.