06' Journey coolant reservoir replacement

Flyfshr · 05-01-2015, 07:36 PM

I was wondering if anyone has had to replace their coolant reservoir, and if you did it yourself, was it difficult? Mine is showing its age, and I have a replacement but doubting my abilities to do the job. It looks pretty tight.

FIRE UP · 05-01-2015, 08:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Flyfshr

I was wondering if anyone has had to replace their coolant reservoir, and if you did it yourself, was it difficult? Mine is showing its age, and I have a replacement but doubting my abilities to do the job. It looks pretty tight.

Flyfshr,
Yep, there's been quite a few threads/posts on this particular subject. And yes, it's pretty tight in that area for work. The coach builder did not intend for us "DIY" type folks to handle this kind of repair. On some, it's tighter than others.

That poly tank, hovers around $125.00 or so from Freightliner. Not too many other places to get it. Some have replaced two or three times. Some have taken it upon themselves to "insulate" it from the elements after a new tank has been installed. They do this by covering it with sticky aluminum foil tape or other material, to keep it from seeing the sun and being influenced by the outside elements.

But, in reality, it's really not that hard. It's just tight. Now, on mine, some of the work was done from the inside/bed area and, the rest was done from the outside rear. It's the side bolts that hold that tank that are the pain in the a$$ ones to get at, start the threads etc. The rest of them are not bad at all.

You'll need to isolate your cooling system by shutting off certain valves which should be located in the heater cooling lines that run forward. You'll be able to see those when you lay under there. Once those are shut down, then that section of the cooling system can be drained enough to accommodate the tank change. Good luck.
Scott

FleetMan · 05-01-2015, 10:01 PM

As FIRE UP said, there have been quite a few posts on replacing that coolant tank. Some of the tips I picked up on were cutting the old tank into pieces with a sawsall to remove it since it will be scrapped anyway and then installing "C" clips wherever possible to replace nuts and bolts when installing the replacement.

Ranger Smith · 05-02-2015, 06:13 AM

Did mine on our ultimate when I owned it. It was fairly simple and easy as we had the side radiator. Even with the rear radiator it is not a hard job just tight as others have said.

Flyfshr · 05-02-2015, 11:42 AM

Thank you gentlemen for your input and experience on this issue. I feel more confident that I can now accomplish this task. There's nothing worse that getting in over your head. I have built cars and worked on cars before but as I've gotten older I tend to not want to do things myself. Thanks again for your help.

dstinch · 05-02-2015, 02:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FIRE UP

Flyfshr,
Yep, there's been quite a few threads/posts on this particular subject. And yes, it's pretty tight in that area for work. The coach builder did not intend for us "DIY" type folks to handle this kind of repair. On some, it's tighter than others.

That poly tank, hovers around $125.00 or so from Freightliner. Not too many other places to get it. Some have replaced two or three times. Some have taken it upon themselves to "insulate" it from the elements after a new tank has been installed. They do this by covering it with sticky aluminum foil tape or other material, to keep it from seeing the sun and being influenced by the outside elements.

But, in reality, it's really not that hard. It's just tight. Now, on mine, some of the work was done from the inside/bed area and, the rest was done from the outside rear. It's the side bolts that hold that tank that are the pain in the a$$ ones to get at, start the threads etc. The rest of them are not bad at all.

You'll need to isolate your cooling system by shutting off certain valves which should be located in the heater cooling lines that run forward. You'll be able to see those when you lay under there. Once those are shut down, then that section of the cooling system can be drained enough to accommodate the tank change. Good luck.
Scott

Its a 4 hour job, 2 hrs to get out 2 hrs to get back in. Plus the price of the tank. As said above some bolts come off from under the bed. the rest is out back. If I remember there are 2 bolts on the right side(they suck to get out), move away the insulation to see them. You only have about a inch space to get to them but they will come out. Two people will help. Engineers you got to love them!

Don

SlaterDoc · 05-02-2015, 09:16 PM

I "had" to replace the surge tabk on my Bounder on a recent trip through the "Devil's Lair"! I am still going to try and write that journey down!
I had one of those "badly cracked" plastic buckets that finally turned it's cracks into voids!

I found a Freightliner dealer in PA that had 1 tank on the shelf. But with stopping every few minutes to refill with water I didn't get there until 5:30 and their service dept was closed. So, I spent the next hour and a half in their lot doing it myself!
Mine also had limited access to those two side bolts. I used 2 wrenches as the socket wrench wouldn't fit. It was not all that tough after those. I removed the bolts before removing the lines. It made for a less messy operation! One tip, when I put the 2 side bolts back in I put the heads inside with the nuts on the outside! It made the tightening and especially the threading easier! They were the other way around before removal. Also, be sure to check the in and out lines at the connections and if you have enough play, as I did, cut a little off (1/2") for a nice new tight fit!
I ain't nothin close to a mechanic! So, if I could do it you can!

SCVJeff · 05-03-2015, 01:21 PM

Mine is due.. Does anyone know where to order online?

Flyfshr · 05-03-2015, 02:09 PM

I got mine at trans west truck center in Fontana, ca. It was around $125.

FIRE UP · 05-03-2015, 06:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SCVJeff

Mine is due.. Does anyone know where to order online?

Hey Jeff,
I got mine at San Diego Freightliner. But, any Freightliner Service Center will have or, can get them in short order. If you call one, you'll need your last 6 of your VIN and, that will tell them the exact part number, for your coach. As stated, mine hovered around $121.00 or so. Not real sure that you can get them "on line" at any other source. We'll see.
Scott

P.S. On Edit: I just looked mine up on AccessFreightliner and, the part number is:

Part No. 05-17750-000

If others have access to that same sight here, check on that to see if it's the same part number for different year/models of Winnes and Itascas. I'd bet it's the same part number.

skigramp · 05-03-2015, 07:29 PM

Mine went to pot as I was travelling north on I-15 ... I called Freightliner in Salt Lake City ... they had one ... the tech replaced it in a little over an hour ... and he did all the work from the outside of the coach.

And in case you have never experienced it, you have a low coolant buzzer ... so I bought a gallon of coolant in a Flying J and made it about 200 miles to Salt Lake City ... I stopped every time the buzzer went off and filled the tank.

My toad was pretty disgusting when I got to SLC. I went to a drive through car wash and got the worst off ... went to a burger joint for some supper ... when I returned the tech was just finishing the repair.

Gary CA · 05-03-2015, 10:32 PM

Extended warranty will replace the tank as the seam leaks and the plastic is brittle. So at that time is was an easy fix.

doorguy · 05-05-2015, 10:51 PM

Ditto, FleetMan, had to cut mine up with sawsall to get to certain bolts. Re-installation wa s not difficult at all.