Main flame lighting off and then goin gout is due to lack of 'Flame Proving'
Main flame generates a milivolt signal that is used to prove main flame lit so circuit board will continue to hold 12V DC on gas control solenoid until t-stat opens shutting down heat cycle.
Milivolt signal is generated by 'flame ionization/rectification'
Spark electrode is used as return path for milivolt signal
Dirty/sooted up...no signal
Wrong spark gap (1/8")...no signal
Not engulfed in main flame....no signal
Loose/dirty/corroded high tension wire connection....no signal
Cracked ceramic insulator......signal goes to ground
Assembly mounting screw loose/corroded....no grounding for spark electrode ...no signal
YES .......
Some LP appliances do have issues at higher altitudes due to thinner air.
Suburban WHs seem to have the most because they do not have an 'air shutter' so you can adjust air/fuel ratio.
Suburban uses a metered orifice matched to the wide open air flow on burner tube.
You CAN buy and use a different burner tube assembly to use at high altitudes if necessary. Part #010844 (it is a burner tube for 3 & 4 gallon version with different orifice -----orifices are part of burner tube. Easy swap ---one to other.
3 & 4 gallon use smaller orifice---less fuel (9000 btu burner)
6, 10,12 gallon use larger orifices...more fuel (12000 btu burner)
Suburban Water Heater 010844 Burner Assembly with High Altitude Orifice - Parts & Accessories - RV Water Heaters - RV Appliances
But before buying a smaller orificed burner tube check out the spark electrode items I listed
And having access panel open can help with amount of air getting to burner tube.