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Old 05-04-2023, 09:01 AM   #1
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Auto leveling, use of ramps or blocks?

Hi all,

I have read and re-read several replies and just want clarification.

I have a 30 ft 2022 Vista and I am still new to auto-leveling as this is my first Class A. I usually turn on the leveling system when I'm pulling into a spot to initially see which sides are off. I try to park as level as possible and then use the auto level. My front wheels have sometimes been maybe one or two inches off the ground. Sometimes a rear jack may be off the ground a little.

Is it better practice to use ramps for the front tires of the motorhome or use the stacking blocks under the level jacks prior to using the auto level system? Will this stabilize more?

Sorry to be repetitive in the questioning from other posts I've read, but I like to learn what others have done. I really appreciate any substantive answers and feedback and I love this site!!!

Thank you in advance!
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Old 05-04-2023, 08:31 PM   #2
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You should always try to get level without lifting the tires off of the ground. If you suspect tires are going to be off drive up on some sort of blocking so they at least stay in contact with the blocking.
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Old 05-04-2023, 08:53 PM   #3
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What Tim said. Lifting tires off the ground makes bending a jack more likely, and never lift the rear tires off the ground as they are the only parking brake you have.
Conversely, you can manually level the coach and keep jack extension to a minimum..
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Old 05-04-2023, 08:56 PM   #4
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I have a 29' Vista 27N. It has the LCI 4 jack hydraulic system. I've found that for my length it can correct about 2.5 degrees out of level between highest corner and lowest corner, if I manually level. Auto is iffy at above 2 degrees.

I have visual front-back and side-side bubble levels that have degree marks on them mounted by my driving position. They give me a quick view of my situation and generally you can move around some on a site and find a best location so far as being as close to level as possible goes.

If more than 2 degrees out of level either direction I drive tires up on one level of plastic leveling block per degree on one or two tires as needed to get it within 2 degrees in both directions. Then wood blocks where jack feet go down, more where the tires are up on blocks. Wheel chocks on a wheel that is not up on blocks. I also find when starting out more out of level that using the leveling control panel in manual mode lets me get level or close to level without raising the RV quite as much as auto mode does.

Personally, I want to have some weight on all 4 tires, to minimize stress on the frame and jack system, and it just makes the RV more stable. It means carrying more plastic blocks and wood blocks but I think it's worth it to avoid having any problems.
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Old 05-04-2023, 09:29 PM   #5
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I have an app for my phone that does the trig for you and tells you how much each low tire will need to be raised, if it is above what you know will work run the tires up on blocking to give it a head start to being level. It is called Camper Leveler, There is also a leveling system you can buy that works with your phone.
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Old 05-05-2023, 10:20 AM   #6
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I posted a thread on auto leveling in the class a forum a few weeks ago. Ended up talking about leveling blocks. Here is my summary:
Many similar issues to yours with the auto level. I would bring in a few levels to check if your zero point was actually level. Mine was not so reset it. Some folks only use AL, some only manual. Some don't mind the front tires off of the ground, some do.
We've been in over 30 campgrounds across the US over the last 10 months. Only needed leveling blocks once in Harbor, OR. I had to borrow wood from the campground as I did not have any. They worked on the low side under tires and jacks fine, though I would prefer not to use them. I am looking for some real ones to carry with me, but can't find one that both rear tires can fit on. For me, when you need them, you need them. Some folks have no issues using them, some will never use them.
Sorry it's not black and white, everyone seems to do what they're comfortable with
Safe travels
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Old 05-05-2023, 05:42 PM   #7
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FYI, the leveling goal is the absorption refrigerator requirements, a maximum of 3° side-to-side and 6° front-to-back as looking into the fridge.
If you do not have an absorption type refrigerate, as long as you are comfortable living in the RV it is level enough..
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Old 05-05-2023, 06:49 PM   #8
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Yes, what Ray said. I now have a compressor style fridge and leveling is not quite as important as it once was, I just try to get it as close and solid.
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