Entry door latch comes loose on our 04 Meridian

Catpowered · 10-15-2008, 10:59 AM

The door latch on our 04 Meridian releases while going down the road. The door doesn't come open, but becomes very loose. We lock both the standard and dead-bolt latches before getting under way, but that doesn't prevent it. The first time it happened my wife was going to open the door and slam it shut again...bad idea! A significant vacumn is created by the airflow past the windshields and it practically pulled her out of the coach. So now we let it rattle until the next stop. I lubed the catch but that didn't help either. Anybody else experience this and how did you fix it?

Catpowered · 10-15-2008, 10:59 AM

The door latch on our 04 Meridian releases while going down the road. The door doesn't come open, but becomes very loose. We lock both the standard and dead-bolt latches before getting under way, but that doesn't prevent it. The first time it happened my wife was going to open the door and slam it shut again...bad idea! A significant vacumn is created by the airflow past the windshields and it practically pulled her out of the coach. So now we let it rattle until the next stop. I lubed the catch but that didn't help either. Anybody else experience this and how did you fix it?

Oemtech · 10-15-2008, 01:16 PM

If your door strike looks like the photo below you can lossen it and adjust it.

But, I recommend that you replace it with one like the one in the next photo. What does it cost? Well, nothing - its free. A friend of mine makes them and gives them away. I send them out for him. all I ask is a small donation to cover expenses. Every now and then I send him a check to buy stock and make more.

OBTW - Newmar wants $40 for a replacement.

Just be aware there is a short version (mostly on gasers) and a long version (mostly on DP's).

Bayway · 10-15-2008, 04:05 PM

Dale

I want one of those. I am tired of pulling the skin off my left arm on the sharp edges of the original part. Who do I contact to get the new part. By the way how do you tighten this new part with out the nut shaped head?

2005 Sunrise 33V Workhorse Chassis
Old Odyssey Toad

Oemtech · 10-15-2008, 05:29 PM

Anyone that needs one just drop me a email ([email protected] ) with your name and complete address and I will get one out to you.

Be aware there are 2 sizes... Most gasers use a short version an the some of the DP use a long version. Just measure it and let know which one you need.

Catpowered · 10-15-2008, 06:59 PM

What does this new one do that the old one doesn't? They both are pegs except the new one doesn't have a hex head.

Oemtech · 10-15-2008, 07:46 PM

What does it do... no more torn shirts, ripped pants or cuts to your arms.

There is a machine flat that 7/16" fits to do the adjustments. Remember, the part that is behind the strike won't fall out as it is attached on the backside. Just measure the length and let me know what you need.

porscheracer · 10-15-2008, 08:42 PM

Looks great to me! I'm one of those lucky people who can walk by a wet sponge and develop a 6" bleeding gash on my arms / hands.

I'll get a dimension to you, along with a wee contribution, in the next few days.

Oemtech · 10-16-2008, 04:56 AM

I just need the length of the unthreaded portion along with your name and complete address. The bolt comes with 2 fender washers and 1 regular washer so do not have remove anything from the old striker. This should provide you with plenty of adjustment.

OBTW - The guy you need to thank is Max Hubrich

Catpowered · 10-16-2008, 01:06 PM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by oemtech:
What does it do... no more torn shirts, ripped pants or cuts to your arms.

There is a machine flat that 7/16" fits to do the adjustments. Remember, the part that is behind the strike won't fall out as it is attached on the backside. Just measure the length and let me know what you need. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

That is great that it prevents torn shirts and pants, but my question remains. How will it prevent my door latch from releasing? I fail to see how replacing the factory peg with one that has no hex nut will solve my problem.

Oemtech · 10-16-2008, 06:15 PM

Just by changing it probably will not fix your problem. But it is a whole lot easier to adjust compared to the stock version.

As for the fix to your problem... Assuming that your door is like most I have seen either the striker needs adjusting or you have a bad door latch. I would suspect the striker just needs adjusting.

PeteB · 10-23-2008, 08:26 AM

Another thing that you can try is to back off on the adjustment of the latch mechanism. Maybe it is set too tight and is not fully setting the latch when you close the door.
First look for a thin black piece of plastic about 1 inch square on the edge of the door. Peel it off and you will expose a lock nut that is on the end of the release rod. Turn the nut 1/2 turn counter clock wise and try the door again. It may work as it will add a little more slop to the release mechanism. If not you can back off a little more, just make sure that you leave some of the rod showing so the nut stays in place.

Pete

Max Hubrich · 10-24-2008, 11:50 AM

Catpowered,

If your bolt looks like the original one Oemy showed-- with a hex head on the far end of the bolt, it sounds like an adjustment problem. If so, do this---

1- Open the door and rotate the black latch slowly upward. It has two locking settings. Kinda like the hood on a car. The first lock is a safety step-- but loose. The second lock setting is the final, sealing step.

It sounds like the bolt has to be positioned outward (towards the curb), slightly. Then close the door firmly and it should seat and seal the door. You might be able to, with a good flashlight, sit inside and watch the latch go upward and end up on its second locking step position-- that you observed while looking at it closely with the door open.

It sounds like your not getting the second step lock.

If you rig doesn't have the ugly hex headed bolt-- forget all the above.

Yes, I make these new style bolts. I was tired of tearing shirts/jackets and having cuts on my arm. Oemy, sends them out to our RV'n buddies. I make an average size bolt. I can make any size required if you remove the existing bolt, measure the thread length, and the bolt length and send these dimensions to me via PM (private message) I'll need your email address as I can't seem to reply to PM's. You can use the thick existing washer, if you can get it off. Some Winnebago bolts have a small black "O" ring on the back side of the washer-- that washer will come right off. Some were apparently heated up and the bolt was dropped into the washer-- Forget those. These washers have been heat treated and have a Rockwell case hardening factor.

Make sure the new style bolt protrudes enough so the latch completely engulfs it. I suggest you spray paint the bolt, as it will rust-- Or you can put a little vaseline on it also. I'd love to have them plated but they are free now

Good luck,

SteveG · 11-03-2008, 03:03 PM

The modified door latch bolt is a creative solution and these creative solutions are one of the things I find so interesting in this forum.

Took the MH to have some maintenance done and while waiting I looked through some new MH when I realized I was climbing by the same latch bolts we have on our 2004. But there were some modifications. The photo below seemed to me to be the best I saw. The steel angle affords some protection from the bolt and the plastic flange protects it further. So to some extent the manufacturer is making an attempt to help protect against the coat and sleeve snag. Unfortunately, I am having a senior moment and can not recall the manufacturer.

Oemtech · 11-03-2008, 05:37 PM

Although the changes look good is really amazes me the amount of work that is done to fix the "symptom" and not the "PROBLEM". Put one of Max's striker bolts and you just eliminated 2 parts and the problem.