For all Intents and purposes

[BROAD ST]

I have some 2by6 boards cut too that i keep for some places.But with so many things breaking during the year and everytime i call winnebago they just say get it fixed and offer me nothing for keeping it in the shop,they are going to fix everything i find ,dont care if it has so many parts on it,was brand new when i bought it,the rv place has had it 3 months out of the year,not too impressed with them.I can see this grill coming loose again the way its designed,the rv place has been great to work with,they didnt build it ,they just keep fixing it,150 mile trip to and from,6 times this year.nobody else in our group has had this many issues,dont know if lawyer would help

[K9AEG]

I have found..... Winny dealers cannot attract goooood repair people. Reason... is wages they pay them. Whenever a good repair person gets a little experience, guess what? A motor vehicle garage scarfs them up for lots more money per hour. Money speaks in this country.

I have had many issues with my Intent. But I expected to have to remodel and rebuild this unit when I bought it. I did take this Intent back to a dealer, but they did a shabby job at all of my issues. I had to re-do most of their attempts at repair. Maybe you should also, or have a friend do it for you.

Just my two cents.

[BROAD ST]

Hey K9AEG,my dealer contacted me today and told me there replacing a hydraulic line on my leveling jacks,told him even when they all come down ive been getting the unable to level message ,says this will fix that and the rear one not coming all the way down,My dealer has been good fixing mine,just the point of me having it down there 6 time this year and them having it over 100 days!

[K9AEG]

Yes know what you mean. Good

[Wyatt]

Love the combo door lock. Where did you find that? Thanks!

[YGoHom]

Originally Posted by Wyatt

Love the combo door lock. Where did you find that? Thanks!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It takes a little bit of work to fit.
~Simply file the hole open a bit to fit properly.
~I used some extra weather stipping to cover the entire lock assembly to the door (you'll understand if you buy it. The supplied gasket only covers the square portion, not the rounded end)
~I had to unscrew the 2 pins that engage the door jamb to clear the stock strike plate. They were a bit loose, so I removed them to put some Locktite on, then screwed them back in.

The lock is expensive, but it's solid, smooth and quiet - except for the chirping of the key pad. I put some thick black tape over the speaker, which took care of it.

Great purchase.

[Wyatt]

Originally Posted by YGoHom

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It takes a little bit of work to fit.
~Simply file the hole open a bit to fit properly.
~I used some extra weather stipping to cover the entire lock assembly to the door (you'll understand if you buy it. The supplied gasket only covers the square portion, not the rounded end)
~I had to unscrew the 2 pins that engage the door jamb to clear the stock strike plate. They were a bit loose, so I removed them to put some Locktite on, then screwed them back in.

The lock is expensive, but it's solid, smooth and quiet - except for the chirping of the key pad. I put some thick black tape over the speaker, which took care of it.

Great purchase.

Thanks for the link and explanation. I ordered one and hope it works well since leaving a window open seems to defeat the reason for having a locking door in the first place...

[K9AEG]

Originally Posted by BROAD ST

Hey K9AEG,my dealer contacted me today and told me there replacing a hydraulic line on my leveling jacks,told him even when they all come down ive been getting the unable to level message ,says this will fix that and the rear one not coming all the way down,My dealer has been good fixing mine,just the point of me having it down there 6 time this year and them having it over 100 days!

Let me know if replacing the hydraulic fixed your problems..

[BROAD ST]

I will, havent picked it up yet,waiting for them to get it fixed.Also getting a rear trac bar put on while they have it.

[K9AEG]

Originally Posted by BROAD ST

I will, havent picked it up yet,waiting for them to get it fixed.Also getting a rear trac bar put on while they have it.

Would also like to hear of your opinion of the Trac Bar installation after you hav eput a couple of hundred miles on it.

I am very pleased with the handling AFTER I have added the "below" improvements. I feel I can drive in any wind conditions, any road conditions. Am very impressed with the "anti Sway" bar improvements. Drives close to an SUV now.

Denny

[Wyatt]

Originally Posted by K9AEG

Would also like to hear of your opinion of the Trac Bar installation after you hav eput a couple of hundred miles on it.

I am very pleased with the handling AFTER I have added the "below" improvements. I feel I can drive in any wind conditions, any road conditions. Am very impressed with the "anti Sway" bar improvements. Drives close to an SUV now.

Denny

We have rented RV’s for years, before finally purchasing our Intent in July, 2019.
Every one wandered all over the road—even off the road onto the shoulder at times.
After speaking to folks at campgrounds, they all said that the anti-sway (track bars) were a must upgrade.
Well, we picked up our new RV in July in LA, and I drove it home—white knuckled on i5 north to the Bay Area where we reside. Why, we’ll, we left LA on a hell-bent trip to get back at 4:00 pm. Stuck in traffic, then we must have passed 70 semi’s going north, as these guys like to drive the 5 at night. We were pushed around (unladen mostly) all the way.
It ended up being an 8 hour trip, but I had already ordered Roadmaster front sway bar replacement, rear anti-sway track bar, steering stabilizer and Koni shocks, which we install the following weekend when we got home.
Would I do it again? Actually, I wouldn’t want to drive again unless I did.
The coach now drives and tracks responsibly on the road.
If you do nothing else, at least add the front and back and steering stabilizers...
That said, we did so much so quickly and concurrently, I can’t say which mod affected the most change. And I didn’t really care. I just want to relax while driving to my destiny, not wondering if my family would actually get there...

[K9AEG]

Wyatt, bought my Intent April 2018 in Masa AZ. Drove it 80 miles to Tonto Basin where I reside during winter. Yep it was all over the road. Remember it went onto the bike lane and I played hell trying to get it back on the auto lane again. Was scary.

Then I really did take my life into my own, by having to get it 2000 miles NE to Wisconsin in May, pulling an inclosed trailer. By the grace of God, I made it. Wasn't a fun drive...

So then back in Wisconsin, (summer residence), I went to work and ordered the Road Master anti-sway front and rear and the Road Master steering stabilizer, as suggested by E-Trailer.com. (Good people to work with and competitive prices).

Those improvements really did tame the beast. The rear anti-sway doesn't replace the existing rear sway bar, (meaning you don't remove it), but adds a second anti-sway to the rear end. I thought that is a plus.

That was summer of 2018. Now last summer 2019 I attempted to add the final suggestion by E-Trailer.com, the Sumo springs front and rear. I only managed to get the front mounted. I was having too much problems with the rear, so I sent them back. I must admit the front Sumo's did put the icing on the cake. Holding the front tighter, sure seemed to prevent most Semi push and cross winds problems.

Last week I made a trip to ABQ, New Mexico which trips me up over the Arizona Rim country where there was warnings of 45 mph gusts up there that day. I have no way of knowing if it was truly 45mph gusts, but the trees branches and brush, were defititly moving. But on those twisty turny roads up there in the mountains, I felt not much in steering wheel wind correction. I have gone thru this area many times especially with my 25' Class C, with replaced anti-sways and steering stabilizer, and still had white-knuckle times up there.

This last summer I also did the 5-star Tune. Have to say I love it. Was a good addition.

Denny

[Wyatt]

Thank you Denny,

I was thinking about adding the sumo springs because they get glowing reviews but I thought I’d wait to see if the Koni shocks were enough to do the job.

Insofar as the 5 star upgrade you did, when you plug the device into the port on your coach does it upgrade the engine computer and you can unplug it and put it away? The reason I ask is I have a Automatic cc a adapter plugged into that port which tracks every mile we’ve put on the rig since we purchased it—where we went, gas mileage and reads any error codes and such. Since I can only plug one thing into the port I was hoping the 5star could be plugged in update the engine computer and put away, if needed, while having the upgrade “stick” in the system...? Thanks for your continued help!

[K9AEG]

Wyatt, thanks for your reply. Yes the 5-Star just is plugged into the obd2 port for the upgrade. Then you just unplug it and put it back into its box. It can be left plugged in all of the time to monitor some of the obd2's functions, but I went another route similar to your route. I got a obd2 bluetooth device that plugs into the port and then using an old Android tablet I had laying around, downloaded an app that monitors all of the obd2 functions. And as a plus, that same old tablet is also my GPS driver. How sweet is that?

BTW, about front end improvements, I read somewhere that "taming the front" is real important with motorhomes. I believe it said that tame the front and the rest will follow. Did your research also say something like that, or am I mistaken?

[Wyatt]

Thanks Denny,

If that’s the case, that this “upgrade” can be plugged in and removed, while retaining the memory of the upgrade, what would prevent one person from purchasing one, and sharing it around with all his buddies?

Insofar as the comment you referred to about fixing the front end, and the rest will follow, I’m assuming that statement referred to the rear of the coach tracking in lock step with the front. I have never heard of that, unless if what they really meant in saying, “the rest will follow” was that you’ll be upgrading the rear too😂.

While the rear sway bar stays in place when you add the Roadmaster rear stabilizer, I believe it is needed to bolster the rigidity of the axle and help prevent side-to-side wander due to the rear being almost double the weight of the front axle. I would also imagine that the longer the coach, the more this upgrade to the rear would be important.

[K9AEG]

Wyatt... thanks for the reply. Your 1st question about sharing the 5-star with your friends? Well that got me in a lot of trouble. I used that 5-star unit on my ford class C. I assumed, I could just buy the software for the new Intent, and be a happy camper. Well, I found out these 5-star units are only designed for one engine and its VIN #. So I couldn't use my 5-star until I would "unmarry" it from the Class C, which I didn't have access to any longer. But I could sent the unit back to 5-star for them to unmarry it for a cost. I pleated insanity, and they did unmarry my unit free. Even paid the postage, after I wined much to them. But I did send them $20 to help cover costs.

Yes the back end has a problem as designed. This is normal bad design with just about all Class A/C gas units. Problem is they have a long overhang. Back wheels should be placed further towards the back. 2nd look where they put the tanks (all of them including gas)... They need to be between the front and real wheels, not hanging out in the back acting like a heavy waging tail. I don't think I have much of that going, but I would like to hear from you after yours is installed.

[Wyatt]

Hi Denny,

I installed the rear and front Roadmaster sway bars, along with the steering stabilizer and Koni shocks all in one day—the week after we returned home from buying it in LA. I knew it needed at least those upgrades. It took 5 hours with a qualified Friends’s help, and we could have done it in about 2.5 if we didn’t have to spend the other 2.5 just getting the U clamp off for the steering stabilizer and driving back to get for tools as we must have broken three sockets trying to get those nuts off.
We finally used a torch to heat up the frozen nuts.
So, I can’t say which upgrade did the most to help tracking, as we did them all. But I can say that it drives very responsibly and it’s a dream to drive in comparison to the maiden voyage of 430 miles home.
Today’s mods included adding a series of switches to the dash to control varies LED lights to illuminate the dash, controls, and footwell lighting as well as a switch for the air horn—that’s next. (The image is upside down and it doesn’t seem to want to allow me to correct for that no matter what I did).

[K9AEG]

Hi Wyatt
Know about that U-clamp... I couldn't budge it with the tools I had. Finally took it to the local garage and they got them loose and installed the bracket at the same time. Charged me $10 which was worth it.

If your rig is driving pretty decent now, probably like mine, that is why am anxious to hear from you after you have put on some miles with the latest anti-sways installed.

Excited to hear more about your cab lighting. Have just started to address that here myself. Was looking at addressing the poor daytime lighting of the instrument panel 1st and then what your doing.

Question, did you remove the center panel to install the switches? And if you did, how big of a job is that?

I'm assuming your going to use strip LED lights.... the stuff that comes in a roll.

[Wyatt]

Hi Denny,

We’ve been on five trips so far since July and it drives remarkably better. And quieter, as I’ve sound proofed the entire rig more-or-less. Including that center console that used to rattle over every bump.

The main focus of adding lights and the switches you saw, was to do just that—add a strip LED in the speedometer-tach are for daytime visibility. The other strip lights will be for floor lighting and one strip to illuminate the switches and leveling controls. I’ll show post pictures/video when I out it back together,
Disassembling the cowl is easy, took 30 minutes. I decided to remove it rather than trying to install them whileit was in place and I’m glad I did.
I videoed what I did, and I can post that as well, once done. Note: The LED STRIPS I used are 12” pre-cut and most importantly, dimmable. White for the instrument panels, and blue for the floorboards.
Cutting the holes for the switches took another 30 minutes, and soldering all of the wire an hour.

[K9AEG]

Hi Wyatt
Oh I forgot I believe, you posted your sound insulation project earlier. I'll have to look for that post.

I had the instrument panel covers off yesterday trying to see where to put the lite strip.
Was thinking about placing it on the bezel or cover top side of instrument panel as there is a gap there between it and the gages of about half inch. Not sure how to fix it's stickyback to it.

I imagine you tapped the power off of some convenient wire. Is your power tap alway-hot or switched.