For all Intents and purposes

[SCCAFIRE]

Originally Posted by Wyatt

consider adding the Coleman Mach Bluetooth AirExcel thermostat. It’s backlit too. You’ll be glad you did.

Looking to purchase one of these soon. Did the black panel behind the actual thermostat come with it?

Thanks


Scott

[Wyatt]

Originally Posted by YGoHom

Take care when positioning the handle and which way you want it to point for cold and hot water.
With the lever on the right, I had to reverse the lines to get the hot lever pointing to the wall.

That drove me nuts, I kept turning on hot when I wanted cold, so...I changed the orientation to be more normal. Left is hot and right is now cold.

[feiter]

Originally Posted by YGoHom

Bill, the rear track bar is a must. I thought you already did it around the time I did mine?

The KONI's are not adjustable, as creativepart said. I tried the Bilsteins but the ride was unbearably harsh.
I talked to a KONI rep about their newest shock, and he actually steered me back to keeping the stock oil shocks. I had read that many people with a short, lightweight RV like we have were unhappy with the ride, and the rep agreed.
They only sell 1 shock part number for all F53 front, and 1 for the rear...regardless of weight.
It makes sense that it rides harsh on a 16k chassis, and really soft on a 22k chassis. It's the same shock dealing with a difference of 6,000 pounds!

SUMO's...I've read similar accounts of adding to the harshness on the lightweight coaches. I tried airbags in the rear with bad results.
Always buy from a company that takes returns!

Hi there...it really is hard to believe Koni would sell same shock for ALL F53 but you're right that is the way their search engine works....model is F53 only. Well, I am going with the FSDs front and rear and Sumo front only and the rear Track bar also (not sure why I installed the rear sway bar B4 track, but I did)...don't even want to tell you what Ray is charging me! Ha Ha.

I think I will do the engine cover insulation in a few weeks using Wyatt's suggested product. In addition to smoother ride I need less noise! All in all I am happy with here and she performed well for us all last year. Only issues have been since I upgraded bats and added the bat monitor...not sure why I ended up with low voltage and things not working...seems to be fixed now (hoping)!

I am at 17387 miles now. Put 15,000 on with those 3 summer 2019 trips. Looking forward to at least going back to Michigan late summer and planning trip north in a few weeks (I hope) to Utah national parks and then over to Yosemite and may just keep going North to hit Vancouver as we skipped last year when wife forgot her passport. Have some friends in Eugene we can see on the way home and may take wife over to Sequoia too.

Will plan a few shorter trips also. Really want to head south to Mexico but virus killed that for quite a while...if they ever get their hands around their problems.

[K9AEG]

Originally Posted by feiter

Hi there...it really is hard to believe Koni would sell same shock for ALL F53 but you're right that is the way their search engine works....model is F53 only. Well, I am going with the FSDs front and rear and Sumo front only and the rear Track bar also (not sure why I installed the rear sway bar B4 track, but I did)...don't even want to tell you what Ray is charging me! Ha Ha.

I think I will do the engine cover insulation in a few weeks using Wyatt's suggested product. In addition to smoother ride I need less noise! All in all I am happy with here and she performed well for us all last year. Only issues have been since I upgraded bats and added the bat monitor...not sure why I ended up with low voltage and things not working...seems to be fixed now (hoping)!

I am at 17387 miles now. Put 15,000 on with those 3 summer 2019 trips. Looking forward to at least going back to Michigan late summer and planning trip north in a few weeks (I hope) to Utah national parks and then over to Yosemite and may just keep going North to hit Vancouver as we skipped last year when wife forgot her passport. Have some friends in Eugene we can see on the way home and may take wife over to Sequoia too.

Will plan a few shorter trips also. Really want to head south to Mexico but virus killed that for quite a while...if they ever get their hands around their problems.

Thanks for your views on the future travels. When near Michigan, we would love if your somehow you could take the Mackinac Bridge route to the U.P. of Michigan on Hy-2 and then down into Wisconsin and visit us. We have full campground hookup here for your at our place here in north Central Wisconsin. We invite you to join us.

I guess I'am happy with the mod's I have done with this suspension on my F53. 30mph crosswinds today for 70 miles didn't seem to be a "white knuckle" experiences.

One can only judge our vehicle with other vehicles on the road. If they are weaving with the winds, we should be also. Look at the truckers for example.

[Wyatt]

Originally Posted by SCCAFIRE

Looking to purchase one of these soon. Did the black panel behind the actual thermostat come with it?

Thanks


Scott

Unfortunately, no. The reason I did that was the new tstat is smaller, and the old holes were visible after I replaced it. (I did notice that now all new Intents come with the AirExcel digital one now).

I had a local plastic shop fashion one. It was nice. Had rounded edges and all. But, I cracked it because I didn’t pre-drill the holes. So I ended up using the scrap piece it was cut from. It’s too large, and eventually I’ll get a new one made when they reopen. Or, I may just try the seam tape for the walls I bought from Winnebago. They sell a 25’ roll which I’ve been using for others mods and repairs.
I also had the plastic shop make me a similarly fashioned clear plastic guard for the exit door handle, calculating that eventually that wall behind it would get dirty.
Now, I have another handle for the left side, but I won’t install that one until I get another plastic piece, as taking those handles on and off too many times causes the screws to lose their bite.

[feiter]

Hey Denny...thanks for the invite...that's a great idea...my son actually lives just north of Toledo in Michigan but I am originally from Saginaw in central part of State. I have a close friend in Clarkston which is about 40 miles north of Detroit and plan on seeing him...so, rather than heading about 100 miles south to head home and fighting Chi town traffic the north route sounds great...I actually spent a year at Michigan Tech in Houghton Mich (UP) back in 1966. Last time I crossed the Mackinaw bridge was during a storm and winds were about 50...bridge was swaying about 5 feet! New mods on the coach may come in handy. I will keep you informed of plans..look forward to sharing a bottle with you and Barb...only concession this year is wife wants to spend min of 2 nights at EVERY stop we make! Good idea for this old fart actuallly.

[Wyatt]

Ok, stupid question, I think.

This silly wrench they give you is for removing these caps to get the chrome cap nuts off correct? I mean, the tire isn’t gonna fall of when I remove these, will it?

Some of them are torqued on so tightly, they actually feel like the tire nut, not the hub cap nut.

I’m assuming once these all come off, I can get to the real nuts that hold the tire on?

[Wyatt]

Originally Posted by feiter

I think I will do the engine cover insulation in a few weeks using Wyatt's suggested product. In addition to smoother ride I need less noise!

Before you pull the trigger, I read up and found this...

[creativepart]

Originally Posted by Wyatt

Ok, stupid question, I think.

Only two come off. The others are not removable. Look for the ones with a dimple in it.

Once you removed those the Simulator will come off revealing the real wheel and lugnuts.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xK6anmP7l7A

[Wyatt]

Originally Posted by creativepart

Only two come off. The others are not removable. Look for the ones with a dimple in it.

Once you removed those the Simulator will come off revealing the real wheel and lugnuts.

Ok, I am an idiot. Couldn’t find anything in Winnebago or Ford manuals, except that the torque spec was 150#.

I’m feeling pretty stupid right about now. But that’s what’s so invaluable about this forum.

Thank you Creativepart. You keep me from ruining my hub caps!

[YGoHom]

Ooooh that would have sucked! Yes, only 2 per wheel. Opposite of each other. There’s an indented line that runs parallel with and near the base.
Btw...that “tool” is worthless. I bought a 1-1/8, 1/2” drive socket, extension, and handle from Harbor Freight that works great. I just used it again yesterday checking the tire pressure.

[Wyatt]

Originally Posted by YGoHom

Ooooh that would have sucked! Yes, only 2 per wheel. Opposite of each other. There’s an indented line that runs parallel with and near the base.
Btw...that “tool” is worthless. I bought a 1-1/8, 1/2” drive socket, extension, and handle from Harbor Freight that works great. I just used it again yesterday checking the tire pressure.

I put my impact tool and socket on them and could only get one off. I didn’t go 180 degrees or I might have found the other one. Thank GOD I stopped and posted this...

Good news is, you can stick a large 3/4 drive torque wrench on these things and at 100# they don’t budge, or more importantly, break.

Thanks guys...otherwise I’d be asking where to find new hub caps...

Last question...How did you guys know this? I’m pretty good about reading all of the manuals. Found no clues anywhere...

[K9AEG]

Originally Posted by feiter

Hey Denny...thanks for the invite...that's a great idea...my son actually lives just north of Toledo in Michigan but I am originally from Saginaw in central part of State. I have a close friend in Clarkston which is about 40 miles north of Detroit and plan on seeing him...so, rather than heading about 100 miles south to head home and fighting Chi town traffic the north route sounds great...I actually spent a year at Michigan Tech in Houghton Mich (UP) back in 1966. Last time I crossed the Mackinaw bridge was during a storm and winds were about 50...bridge was swaying about 5 feet! New mods on the coach may come in handy. I will keep you informed of plans..look forward to sharing a bottle with you and Barb...only concession this year is wife wants to spend min of 2 nights at EVERY stop we make! Good idea for this old fart actuallly.

OK GREAT Felter. Hope that does work out for us to get together and share a bottle with you guys.

Yes, when we had to visit our son in Windsor New York, (he was a AF recruiter for 4 years there), we always took the bridge route thru Michigan into Canada and drop down in Buffalo to visit him. Don't like the Chicago route. The bridge trip is so much more enjoyable and relaxing drive. And did I mention a whole lot more beautiful!

Good idea to spend a couple of nights at each stop, as we modified our travel back from Arizona this year as well. Decided 300-400 miles was enough per day. Gave me time to regain my strength by having more relaxing time. (Barb doesn't share the driving of the coach. )

So anyway, we're looking forwards to your visit.

Denny and Barb

[YGoHom]

Originally Posted by Wyatt

I put my impact tool and socket on them and could only get one off. I didn’t go 180 degrees or I might have found the other one. Thank GOD I stopped and posted this...

Good news is, you can stick a large 3/4 drive torque wrench on these things and at 100# they don’t budge, or more importantly, break.

Thanks guys...otherwise I’d be asking where to find new hub caps...

Last question...How did you guys know this? I’m pretty good about reading all of the manuals. Found no clues anywhere...

By accident. You aren't alone! My Class C's had similar looking covers that pried off like a hub cap. I tried and tried. Then I saw that I was destroying the area around the nuts that were attaching the cover. A quick YouTube search then showed me the correct way. I felt pretty dumb.

[creativepart]

Originally Posted by Wyatt

I’m pretty good about reading all of the manuals. Found no clues anywhere...

Here's the thing; Your RV didn't come with a spare. Nor a jack and lug wrench. It's has no "jacking points" indicated. In short, they do not want you to change the tires.

The RV is too big, too heavy and so are the tires and wheels. Even the amount of torque you'd have to put on the lug nuts is not really user friendly unless you own a truck shop.

So, mum is the word on getting access to the tires and wheels. They want you to take it to a professional - they know how to do it.

[YGoHom]

Originally Posted by creativepart

Here's the thing; Your RV didn't come with a spare. Nor a jack and lug wrench. It's has no "jacking points" indicated. In short, they do not want you to change the tires.

The RV is too big, too heavy and so are the tires and wheels. Even the amount of torque you'd have to put on the lug nuts is not really user friendly unless you own a truck shop.

So, mum is the word on getting access to the tires and wheels. They want you to take it to a professional - they know how to do it.

That's what THEY want. Screw that.
I had a flat tire the 3rd day after picking up my INTENT. I have at least 3 different warranty plans and they all wanted to tow it to a truck shop. 19" and 22.5" are considered TRUCK parts and America's Tire, Big O, etc. are not allowed to work on them. I got lucky and it was only a stuck valve stem.

What I learned from that experience is what if that had happened hundreds of miles from civilization? A tow truck would have to come and get me, then tow me somewhere ?? to get fixed, then drive back to wherever I was to begin with.

To avoid this, I made a rear bumper and spare tire mount. I now have the option to change my own tire or call AAA. No interrupted trip, no towing the RV and dragging the rear end on the ground, a speed bump or curb, and then dealing with that damage.

I'm still young enough that changing the tire is pretty easy with the right tools. That spare is HEAVY getting up on the mount, but manageable.

Rear bumper is the new home of the stinky slinky and I even added a 3rd brake light as a bonus!

[feiter]

Re lug nut removal, I found out by trip to Winnebagp website and contact support. The stock wrench is a piece of S___. I couldn't get two off so, like YGOHOM made trip to Harbor Freight...no regrets and I keep the socket attached to its own wrench. I really wish I did not have to remove them to adjust tire pressure but the extensions I found to work make it necessary. BTW, as part of my add of Sumos and Konis I am having my Alignment shop rotate front tires and repack wheel bearings and they will recheck and adjust alignment if necessary. Funny, I read rear rear rotation not necessary and I think not recommended. My quote for rotate included doing all 4 rears too but chose to skip for now...it was not cheap.

Thinking about changing my handle to YBEHOM...what do you think>

Should have coach back tomorrow and will give my opinion on ride improvments ASAP> Thanks to all for input on those mods. My sound proofing materials will be delivered tomorrow.

Wyatt...why the blanket and where to I actually use it? Understand the insulation will be attached to bottom of the cover and purchased roller to do so but not sure what to do with the blanket. Thanks

[Wyatt]

Originally Posted by feiter

Re lug nut removal, I really wish I did not have to remove them to adjust tire pressure but the extensions I found to work make it necessary.

Hi Bill,

I added these Valve extensions, so you won’t have to take off the hub caps anyone. (See photo).

“Wyatt...why the blanket and where to I actually use it? Understand the insulation will be attached to bottom of the cover and purchased roller to do so but not sure what to do with the blanket. “

I haven’t bought the blankets yet, just throwing that out there as a heat proofed sound deadening mechanism. I also posted this one for you to consider. (See photo)

[feiter]

Both are being delivered today. Think I will return the blanket. Damn thing is $80

[YGoHom]

Wyatt,

Do we have metal valve stems? All the extensions I saw say they must be attached to a metal valve stem, which makes sense. I have been looking at the 120° attachments for the front and the outer rears. I have to take off the covers for them. The rear inners have long extensions that are easy to get to.