For all Intents and purposes

[YGoHom]

Originally Posted by bdub

This is just next level! Wow!

Thank you!

[Wyatt]

Originally Posted by YGoHom

In my experience, these are the first I’ve seen that only projects a single LED per side. There are many that have tiny chips on all 4 sides, or as many sides as it may have. The light from a standard halogen bulb fills the reflector and the light is projected as it was designed to do. An LED replacement only shoots light straight so it doesn’t fill the reflector the same way. It will be bright, but typically won’t project properly as the halogen will. That’s why you get blinded by so many old cars with LED replacements that shoot high in the sky.

In our case, I don’t care, we need to see the damn road! 🙂

I’ve looked around, and not found any LED replacement bulbs that have the LED’s in a circle, like the ones in my refrigerator.

But mine have what looks like four small chips on two sides, yours has one larger one?

[Wyatt]

Originally Posted by YGoHom

Today’s welding project was a new light bar, or bull bar. I’ll put the new KC Gravity fog lights on tomorrow. No, it won’t provide any crash protection. Purely for looks and to mount the fog lights.
I’m really happy with choosing this particular one. I think it really follows the lines of the headlight panels and stripes.

Also, this was another experience that proves it pays to shop around. Amazon and eBay vary so much.
Amazon starts at $500. eBay was as low as $150 for black, brand new. I paid $200 to get it in silver and to fit a Ford F-150 truck. The brackets looked like I could use them with a little modification, vs. the Chevy or Tundra mounts that just wouldn’t work at all.


ARIES 2163000 AdvantEDGE Black Aluminum Truck Bull Bar, Select Ford F-150 , 5-1/2" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019O6VRR0...4XKCDHM99ZYFP7

Very cool. I wish I could weld. Who knows what might happen.

Can’t wait to see the lights on!

[YGoHom]

Success! So much more light now that they are in front of the grille. These KC G4 lights are LED’s facing the reflector by design, which also puts the light on the ground instead of in the trees.
I think I’m going to add another set in white as driving lights.

[Wyatt]

Originally Posted by YGoHom

Success! So much more light now that they are in front of the grille. These KC G4 lights are LED’s facing the reflector by design, which also puts the light on the ground instead of in the trees.
I think I’m going to add another set in white as driving lights.

Very nice. So those are the fog lights correct? How’d you decide to wire them?

[YGoHom]

A standard wiring kit came with the lights, and I used a keyed power source for the relay.
These are yellow fog lights that look clear until they’re on.

[bdub]

This week, I’ll install the dimmer switch in the main living area, and an SAE connection port outside. I’m thinking I’ll just drill through the battery bay door. This will come into play for our 200w solar suitcase we are going to order later this month. Also, bought an SAE compatible cigarette lighter power cord, which I will use when I want external 12v power (for my air compressor for example)...just little tweeks to make the Falcon more user friendly..

[SCCAFIRE]

Originally Posted by Wyatt

Sweet! Love the counter space, opposing slide outs that place will be huge inside. Can’t wait to see more pix when you get it. And make sure EVERYTHING works before you drive away...but you knew that. Q. Does it have heated tanks?

No new pictures yet. We are still trying to decide where things go and have totes everywhere. to answer your questions with the opposing slides open from wall to wall is 12'1". The tanks themselves are not heated but the basement gets heat.

[Wyatt]

Originally Posted by bdub

This week, I’ll install the dimmer switch in the main living area, and an SAE connection port outside. I’m thinking I’ll just drill through the battery bay door. This will come into play for our 200w solar suitcase we are going to order later this month. Also, bought an SAE compatible cigarette lighter power cord, which I will use when I want external 12v power (for my air compressor for example)...just little tweeks to make the Falcon more user friendly..

I like the 12v outside source idea. Could have used that for charging my iPad many times.

For the solar suitcase connection, I just drop the connection wires out the bottom of the battery compartment, and my 15’ extension cables is wound up in there zip tied ready to go when I need it. Not sure why you’d need the SAE connection mounted? Perhaps I’m just taking the path of least resistance, metaphorically speaking of course, not literally...

[bdub]

Originally Posted by Wyatt

I like the 12v outside source idea. Could have used that for charging my iPad many times.

For the solar suitcase connection, I just drop the connection wires out the bottom of the battery compartment, and my 15’ extension cables is wound up in there zip tied ready to go when I need it. Not sure why you’d need the SAE connection mounted? Perhaps I’m just taking the path of least resistance, metaphorically speaking of course, not literally...

The idea of an external quick connect/disconnect was appealing to me, but you’re right the battery bay is very accessible as is.

[Wyatt]

Originally Posted by bdub

The idea of an external quick connect/disconnect was appealing to me, but you’re right the battery bay is very accessible as is.

Now I’m thinking about this, for outside..thanks to you...

Two enhanced USB 3.0 chargers, and a lighter socket. Waterproof. Cool blue lights.

Install in the battery compartment door? Thanks for the inspiration...

Add a coiled wire connection for when the door opens...

Still pondering this. I like to sleep on ideas for a few day. Then, I wake up, and have the answer...

[bdub]

Originally Posted by Wyatt

Now I’m thinking about this, for outside..thanks to you...

Two enhanced USB 3.0 chargers, and a lighter socket. Waterproof. Cool blue lights.

Install in the battery compartment door? Thanks for the inspiration...

Add a coiled wire connection for when the door opens...

Still pondering this. I like to sleep on ideas for a few day. Then, I wake up, and have the answer...

A little outside power station! Nice! I liked the concept of mounting on the door, because if I ever want to delete it all, I can just order a new door. Plus I’m not risking as much as I would drilling through the side of the rig. I was thinking of mounting as close to the hinges as possible to minimize rotation and stretch.

[PRullman]

I just purchased a new 2018 26M and appreciate all of the insight provided as I have been reading through the threads. Unfortunately the weather in KY has not allowed us to get away yet so I really have not driven it much but would like some thoughts on where to start on handling modifications.

Should I start with the CHP fix and a steering stabilizer but seeking recommendations from this group?

Thank you in advance for all of the information available here and hope to contribute at some time.

[YGoHom]

Welcome!

You’ll find all the information you could ever need all in this thread alone, including detailed info on how to make the handling safe to drive. Most of the contributors also have the 26M.

I have done it all. It was either keep trying or sell it. Mine was that bad. Now I love it! Some have been much better from the factory, while others more similar to mine. You’ll find out soon enough which camp you’re in

You’re already aware of the Cheap Handling Fix. That was the first thing I did. Then un-did. Sort of. It seems more common on the short wheelbase RV to experience a negative effect on the front, and I sure got it bad. Before doing anything, raise the front of the RV and see how high you go without lifting the wheels off the ground. After moving the links to the other holes you’ll find the wheels leave the ground much sooner. This relates to the front end jerking while driving over big bumps. The links limit the travel. I made the links longer, but left them in the inner holes and the problem went away.

BTW...using the leveling jacks in manual mode is far better/faster/easier than “auto level”. Turn on the system, press the UP arrow once to display manual, then press enter. I typically lift the front first as it’s usually the lowest, then lift the rear. Until you feel the jacks touch. Then use the left or right arrows to level side to side.

Here’s the order of importance:
~Alignment by an RV or F53 specialist. Alignment is key. “In tolerance” is not good enough. Toe IN is recommended. Your beam may need to be bent to fix the camber, which is easily done by the experts.
~Move all of your carried weight forward. The front is very light and floaty, which makes steering feel sketchy. I don’t drive with a full tank of gas and full fresh water if I can help it. The gas and all tanks are behind the axle. Bad combo for the short wheelbase. I even added 350lbs of steel up front.
~Tire pressure. It’s common for people to inflate to what the tire says, 100 psi? That’s way too stiff for our lightweight RV. I think 80-82 works well, and is on the sticker under the driver’s window.
~Steering stabilizer
~Rear trac bar
~Replace the front sway bar
~Add a rear-facing rear sway bar, leaving the stock bar in place.
~The last thing for me was Sumo Springs. That really smoothed out the bumps and made the ride much more enjoyable.
~Many have gone with KONI FSD shocks. Results are varied. Do NOT waste your time and money on Bilstein shocks. They are far too stiff for a 16k chassis.

If you’re able to do the work yourself, you’ll save a ton of money. It’s all pretty straightforward, easy stuff to do. I suggest having a quality, high-torque impact gun. I use a DeWalt cordless with ease. Does the lug nuts too. That was a great purchase.

After all these mods, I no longer have a white-knuckled drive, but rather an RV that’s safe to drive and as comfortable as an F53 can be without spending another $10k in completely replacing the front and rear suspension.
I’m no longer pushed onto the shoulder by big rigs or wind. No more panic against a K rail. I can actually eat a sandwich while driving! In the beginning I couldn’t lift a finger from the steering wheel. My wife had to wipe my sweat. Seriously!
Now it’s as comfortable as my previous Class C’s to drive.



Send me a PM with your address and I’ll mail you a refrigerator latch.


-Robb

[bdub]

Originally Posted by PRullman

I just purchased a new 2018 26M and appreciate all of the insight provided as I have been reading through the threads. Unfortunately the weather in KY has not allowed us to get away yet so I really have not driven it much but would like some thoughts on where to start on handling modifications.

Should I start with the CHP fix and a steering stabilizer but seeking recommendations from this group?

Thank you in advance for all of the information available here and hope to contribute at some time.

Oh welcome in! Hope you like it. So far I've only added the Steering Stabilizer and am really happy with the steering as a result.

[YGoHom]

Wyatt, thanks again for the tip on the Snap Pads. When I park in front of my house, like last weekend welding on the light bar, the street is a bit of a hill. The pads grip well and are much quieter on solid surfaces than the stock steel foot plate. I’m parked on gravel right now and the larger foot print makes a difference.

[Wyatt]

Originally Posted by YGoHom

Wyatt, thanks again for the tip on the Snap Pads. When I park in front of my house, like last weekend welding on the light bar, the street is a bit of a hill. The pads grip well and are much quieter on solid surfaces than the stock steel foot plate. I’m parked on gravel right now and the larger foot print makes a difference.

Glad you’re happy with those. They do make a softer landing pad, just a little pricey considering they’re nothing more than ground up reformed recycled old tires!

In your earlier post you said, “ I typically lift the front first as it’s usually the lowest, then lift the rear. Until you feel the jacks touch. Then use the left or right arrows to level side to side. ”

That’s the opposite from what I do. I always land the rears first, because only the rears can adjust side to side forces, as they work together and and also independently from one another. The fronts, only work as a pair.There is no side to side adjustment with the fronts, as we have a three point system, not four. So if you don’t get the side to side done with the rears, it’ll never be level in that direction.

Thoughts?

FYI...The LevelMate Pro is a very cool leveling assist. If you don’t have one or know about it, you should check it out.

The images are a screenshot of the app, as it sits in our driveway, not up on the usual ramps.

[Wyatt]

Originally Posted by bdub

A little outside power station! Nice! I liked the concept of mounting on the door, because if I ever want to delete it all, I can just order a new door. Plus I’m not risking as much as I would drilling through the side of the rig. I was thinking of mounting as close to the hinges as possible to minimize rotation and stretch.

I was thinking just the exact same thing worst case scenario, you could order a new door. But these units all have interchangeable USB and lighter socket connections so that if one breaks you could just order a part and replace it without having to remove the entire panel.

After doing a lot of research this is the only one I found that was truly waterproof, and had USB 3.0 charging built into it so that’s the one I’m gonna try out. I was thinking about a power cord that was coiled that would stretch out as the door opened. But for now I’m gonna hook it up and see how it works. I think I’ll run the power over to the hinge as in your point so it doesn’t get in the way.

[YGoHom]

I don’t know if I’m doing it right, but it works

I always try to park with the front lower than the rear, and the side to side is minimal. I never park where I might lift the rear too much as those are the tires holding the RV in place.
The front jacks lower one at a time, driver side first until it makes contact, then the passenger side lowers. When it makes contact, they both lift. I get it pretty level with the front, then I do the rear. They drop at the same time. When they make contact I stop. Then use the sides to level. Then back to the front just a bit to make sure one didn’t leave the ground from the rear movement. Then a quick hit of the rear to be sure of the same.
Works perfect every time.

Another reason for doing the front first is that the rear will actually lower a bit when lifting the front. Then the rear lift is minimal. If the rear are deployed first, then the front, the overall amount of lift is greater.

The auto level is a joke. It’s not smart enough. It would dance about, getting higher off the ground, until it just couldn’t level itself. I learned how to put it in manual mode early on and will never go back. It’s easier and the RV stays closer to the ground because in auto mode it’s always compensating for a bad move. It can only go up, so it tries again. And again.

We were at Emma Wood, just north of Ventura, CA in an oceanfront site that auto level would never have been able to complete. I had several large blocks of wood under the front jacks and the wheels were over a foot off the ground. It was so sketchy that I laid out all 3 bags of my orange lego blocks and drove up on them, then leveled it again. I was still barely touching the legos!

[PRullman]

Thank you for the information and I sent you a PM.