For all Intents and purposes

[liveaboard74]

Originally Posted by Wyatt

Added a few more LED strips inside. Once over the door and one over the front bunk.
Kinda cool ambiance…

Still new here but glad to see i'm not the only one that enjoys turning the coach up a notch or two. Got a under body kit just for the sitting/awning area. Not doing all under the bus but will be adding some inside strips like you have once I get the rest of the e bay inbound stuff mounted.
Nice mod.

[Wyatt]

I finally found a solution to taking a shower and avoiding the cold blast when you turn the valves off and back on again. This thermostatic mixing valve has solved all that-check out the video it’s self-explanatory. I will put this in any RV….

https://vimeo.com/827824845/34975ba169

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by Wyatt

I finally found a solution to taking a shower and avoiding the cold blast when you turn the valves off and back on again. This thermostatic mixing valve has solved all that-check out the video it’s self-explanatory. I will put this in any RV….

https://vimeo.com/827824845/34975ba169

That looks pretty cool and a sure fire way to fix where there could / should be no doubt

There is another thread somewhere on same topic (may be a few years old). I remember that was one of the 1st problems that annoyed me. I had heard all types of things and reasons for why and how to fix. But I just ordered a new fixture (then price of $29) I installed and presto that problem went a way. I had some people dispute saying it was impossible to be fixed, but it was. That was 2 - 3 years ago. We have learned that the 7:00 position is the perfect mix of hot and cold for a shower. All we do is push handle in to stop, and pull back out to restart. It has been awesome.

[Wyatt]

Originally Posted by dkoldman

That looks pretty cool and a sure fire way to fix where there could / should be no doubt

There is another thread somewhere on same topic (may be a few years old). I remember that was one of the 1st problems that annoyed me. I had heard all types of things and reasons for why and how to fix. But I just ordered a new fixture (then price of $29) I installed and presto that problem went a way. I had some people dispute saying it was impossible to be fixed, but it was. That was 2 - 3 years ago. We have learned that the 7:00 position is the perfect mix of hot and cold for a shower. All we do is push handle in to stop, and pull back out to restart. It has been awesome.

That one you have looks like the one I just replaced. And I did so for the same reason you did apparently.

It worked as you said, by turning it off at the handle, and then back on, I wouldn’t get a cold blast. But if I turned it off at the shower head, I would.

Curious if you added backflow preventers on yours?

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by Wyatt

That one you have looks like the one I just replaced. And I did so for the same reason you did apparently.

It worked as you said, by turning it off at the handle, and then back on, I wouldn’t get a cold blast. But if I turned it off at the shower head, I would.

Curious if you added backflow preventers on yours?

I added nothing, no backflow preventer or anything.

With new fixture; I don't recall it making a difference using the shower head on/off, but we don't use the shower head on/off button anymore, or not much anyway. Maybe when I am using the shower head in my hand. When we replaced the OEM cheapo faucet; we got rid of the rotary dial to turn on/off hot water so there really is no need to turn water on/off with button on shower head. It is easier to push the handle on faucet in and out as needed.

I know that it is not a problem anymore because before I changed the faucet; my wife got to a point where she would not shower in the RV due to the cold blast. She prolly use the shower head a lot more than I do, and I guarantee if she was getting a cold blast shower head / or handle; I would know.

It is amazing to me that for an obviously common problem, it seems as surprise to some that not all faucets have the problem. I agree there is some technical science behind it, but I don't need to know what it is as long as it works now.

[Wyatt]

I think the only problem with people getting a cold blast is from when they turn it off at the showerhead. There’s a reason that those shut off valves allow water to keep dripping out of there which is to keep the cold blast for getting as bad as it could.
If you shut it off down at the faucet handle, I don’t think anyone has a problem. Problem down there is if you have the old hot and cold knobs like you and I both did, then it’s a real hassle that’s why people use that showerhead shut off.
Funny, but my whole escapade has been to accomplish just what you did again, happy wife is a happy life…

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by Wyatt

I think the only problem with people getting a cold blast is from when they turn it off at the showerhead. There’s a reason that those shut off valves allow water to keep dripping out of there which is to keep the cold blast for getting as bad as it could.
If you shut it off down at the faucet handle, I don’t think anyone has a problem. Problem down there is if you have the old hot and cold knobs like you and I both did, then it’s a real hassle that’s why people use that showerhead shut off.
Funny, but my whole escapade has been to accomplish just what you did again, happy wife is a happy life…

So I just confirmed with my wife. She says she uses the shower head all the time, and she says we have not had that cold blast since the RV was new. I didn't think so, but I don't use the knob on shower head that much.

Like I said, I am smart enough to know there is some science behind it, but I don't know what it is. I just know we no longer get the cold blast. If I want a cold blast I need to turn the handle to 3 or 4 o'clock.

[StevenL]

Hey everyone! I bought my 26m back in 2021. I have put about 10k miles on it. And just came across this post about 2 weeks ago. And yes it has taken me this long to read through it. My unit had the safety steer installed on it when purchased. Since I have done CHF along with front sumo springs. So in lies my question. Has anyone reverted the front CHF after sumo springs? I ask because I wonder if it would lighten up the harshness up front? Since finding this post I have done a few noise canceling projects and sound deadening on the dog house. Thanks everyone for your work and time sharing your projects.

[Wyatt]

I never did that CHF, so I can’t comment on it other than to say it seems like a dubious work around that has taken on a life of its own, without any science behind it…

[dkoldman]

I never did the CHF either. In my view it too wide spread of a solution that Ford, WBGO nor a authorized WBGO Dealer will recommend and do. I figure those are smarter than liability / safety wise than the other 1000s that have done it.

There are fixes that I suppose are not cheap, I have done those. Safe T Plus and Sumo Springs.

With that said, I never heard of anyone that had it done to complain or put it back. I think if I bought one used and it had been done, I would not buy unless it was safely put back the way it came from Ford.

[StevenL]

I can attest it did make a difference for the better. Not a huge amount. But it did help with the top heavy feel of the rv while driving. Now the sumo springs did the exact same thing just much better. I would say if the CHF helped with my push pull by 10% the front sumo helped it another 60%. A rear track bar is in my future for sure. I am taking a short trip from NC to VA. We are staying at Devils Backbone Basecamp and Brewery. I am going to revert the CHF in the front. I will let you guys know what I think.

[Wyatt]

Those of you who have an OEM black tank flush are blessed.

I’m the less fortunate. They added that function in around April of 2018 I believe.

Today I tackled the project of adding an aftermarket one. It was one of the hardest mods I’ve done. Don’t get me wrong, it’s a straight forward install—technically speaking.

But the only access in the 26m is over top of the driver’s side rear tires. Even jacking it up only gave me minimal clearance and everything had to be done with just one hand.

time for a cocktail… https://vimeo.com/855205970

[Dirtdad]

I would like to add an exterior propane connector. Wondering if anyone has done this. Thanks.

[K9AEG]

Originally Posted by Wyatt

Those of you who have an OEM black tank flush are blessed.

I’m the less fortunate. They added that function in around April of 2018 I believe.

Today I tackled the project of adding an aftermarket one. It was one of the hardest mods I’ve done. Don’t get me wrong, it’s a straight forward install—technically speaking.

But the only access in the 26m is over top of the driver’s side rear tires. Even jacking it up only gave me minimal clearance and everything had to be done with just one hand.

time for a cocktail… https://vimeo.com/855205970

Yes Wyatt, I would have liked one of them also on mine. Thanks for the maybe-Trying experience it took.

Being a voice from the past, as I have changed to a different MH, a class B. But I want to share my experience with the change from AGM to Lifpow4 batteries, and what it takes to make the change. 1st of all, we all know the price of the Lithium batteries here in the states. 100AH goes for upwards of 900$. But doing research I found that most batteries are designed, built in China. So I bought my two batteries from China, eliminating the middle guy ,for less than $300 , a piece, including the LI battery charger! How do they work? A whole lot better than the AGM's I had. Much lighter in weight. So far have not ran them down. If fully charged, I can perk a pot of coffee, without generator.

Now for the technical stuff. Do you have to change out your converter to handle the Lifpo4 charge requirement? NO.... As an electrical engineer, your converter will be real happy that the Lifepo4 charger is helping it out. Also, your solar charger most likely will be able to be reprogrammed to handle Lifepo4 batteries. The only concern is the vehicle alternator that could get overwhelmed with the fast deep charge that Lithium batteries can ask for, thus putting it in an overload condition. The answer here is in the BMI, (Battery Maintenace interface). Maybe you already have one. But there is an Lithium versions that I installed. It is designed to protect the vehicle alternator from overload.

So don't be afraid to update your system to Lifepo4 batteries.

Denny, Ex Winni Entent owner.

[Wyatt]

Originally Posted by Dirtdad

I would like to add an exterior propane connector. Wondering if anyone has done this. Thanks.

Are you asking this question of a Winnebago intent owner?

[Kidikarus]

Originally Posted by K9AEG

Yes Wyatt, I would have liked one of them also on mine. Thanks for the maybe-Trying experience it took.

Being a voice from the past, as I have changed to a different MH, a class B. But I want to share my experience with the change from AGM to Lifpow4 batteries, and what it takes to make the change. 1st of all, we all know the price of the Lithium batteries here in the states. 100AH goes for upwards of 900$. But doing research I found that most batteries are designed, built in China. So I bought my two batteries from China, eliminating the middle guy ,for less than $300 , a piece, including the LI battery charger! How do they work? A whole lot better than the AGM's I had. Much lighter in weight. So far have not ran them down. If fully charged, I can perk a pot of coffee, without generator.

Now for the technical stuff. Do you have to change out your converter to handle the Lifpo4 charge requirement? NO.... As an electrical engineer, your converter will be real happy that the Lifepo4 charger is helping it out. Also, your solar charger most likely will be able to be reprogrammed to handle Lifepo4 batteries. The only concern is the vehicle alternator that could get overwhelmed with the fast deep charge that Lithium batteries can ask for, thus putting it in an overload condition. The answer here is in the BMI, (Battery Maintenace interface). Maybe you already have one. But there is an Lithium versions that I installed. It is designed to protect the vehicle alternator from overload.

So don't be afraid to update your system to Lifepo4 batteries.

Denny, Ex Winni Entent owner.

Do you remember (when you had your 26m) if it has the standard BIM in it? Was looking to do this but just wanted to swap to a lithium BIM vs a full on DC to DC charger. I didn't see one in the battery bay but wasn't sure if it might be elsewhere on the 26M.

[Kidikarus]

Does anyone know what kwikee stepper motor replacement is on the 26M? The kwikee step control module replacement is 363980 if anyone wanted to know. Trying to figure out if the 676061 would work. Also the Kwikee gear box linkage 379160

[Kidikarus]

Originally Posted by YGoHom

Found it! Post #839 on page 42. I remember some follow up questions for JLA too.

Where is the BIM located that you swapped out to the DC to DC charger? I couldn't find it in the battery bay

[Kidikarus]

I'm guessing in the Intent it doesn't have a BIM, instead it's using a basic DC Contactor (Trombetta). I can't find much on switching over from a DC contactor to a BIM or DC to DC charger but the wires all look like the same ones I'd need. Anyone have any 'stop don't do thats' for me? If not, wish me luck!

[creativepart]

Have you looked at the wiring diagrams for the Intent 26M?

https://winnebago.com/Files/Files/Wi..._v26m_wire.htm