Heating the tanks and pipes

[Timo1]

I'm looking to stay in my rv as long as possible. I'd rather not use my furnace. With the cost of propane, but the main thing is the hassle of breaking down camp and driving to town to fill propane. Next year I'll get a large tank and hook it up to eliminate that issue. I've just bought a milk house utility heater with fan but I don't think it's big enough when it get really cold. Right if I open the compartment where the water lines are and I can see the fresh water tank it's pretty warm with that heater on. I've got an oil filled radiator looking space heart that with fit. I think it'll work better when it get really cold(below 10°). What does everyone think. I have a 2002 chieftain and live in west central Illinois. Thank you.

[navnaz]

What about hooking up an “extend a stay”. It’s an attachment that hooks to your propane system near your fixed tank. Allows you to use the 20 or 30 pound tanks without having to drive your RV to fill your fixed tank to keep stocked up on propane. Look it up

[Morich]

Lots depends on the RV and how well you can manage the cold on things that hang out. First big thing to know is that RV are NOT made for winter! The walls are not as good as houses, the windows and door are not as good and certainly the foundation will not keep cold out!
So do you have drains that hang out underneath or are the enclosed? Water hose will freeze for sure if not wrapped in heat tape.
So can you add insulation and build a "foundation" or do you need to move the RV? If not moving, hay or straw bales can make a pretty cheap weather barrier around the bottom to keep some of the cold out from underneath.
Old foam pillows, couch cushions can be cut to fit the vents as cold stoppers!
Leaving cabinets open can let some heat into the spaces where the lines run under them. But they are much more prone to freezing in RV than houses, just due to the way they are built.
Going to be a tough one to do for long.

[Ray,IN]

Without running your furnace there is little chance of your plumbing not freezing during the ILL winter. There are areas of plumbing that are not accessible to warm air without the LP furnace blowing warm air into them.

[Mogen]

Timo1,
I'm a full timer south of Austin, TX and we got a dose of IL in Feb. '21.
I'm a 2019 925J Outlook - a 25 ft long class C.
I put 12 volt computer fans in the walls of my interior compartments all wired to the Heat circuit from the thermostat. Some blow in and some blow out. Same circuit also has a 12 volt relay that switches a 110 volt AC circuit - on its own breaker - that runs a 1500 watt forced air heater on the floor that warms my living area AND - by way of a 110 volt base board heater thermostat set at 40 degrees - a small 600 watt heater inside one cabinet blowing in the general direction of the very critical Plastic PEX water manifold. When the wall thermostat calls for heat, all these items are powered.
I tossed my gas gobbling propane furnace on day one and on its propane feed put a 10 ft stainless steel gas line with an approved quick disconnect so I can hook up a Heater Buddy if i lose power - I've tested it but I've never had to use it ( got lucky in '21 and never lost power).
And I almost forgot - when comes a hard freeze, I switch to my onboard water supply. One of my fans blows interior air on the water line where it comes through the wall.
I know an IL winter is a far cry from a TX one but I hope my mods give you food for thought.