Help with Adventurer Brakes

cuffman · 08-04-2006, 04:01 PM

I have a very low brake pedal (close to floor). Originally replaced leaking Hydraulic Power Boost Unit. Low pedal then became worse. Then replaced Master Cylinder, still mushy brakes & low pedal. Have bled brake lines several times of air, electronically cleaned ABS system, Still very bad LOW BRAKE PEDAL. Pedal also returns to UP position very slowly after depressing.

Have owned 2000 Winnebago Adventurer 32v for about 1 year, has 45,000 miles. Brakes were never impressive, but now are downright scarry!
Also replaced rear pads and both calipers, to no help. Front pads & calipers very good shape and free of any binding.

Any suggestions, other than 20 feet of log chain with a cement block, will be GREATLY appreciated !

cuffman · 08-04-2006, 04:01 PM

I have a very low brake pedal (close to floor). Originally replaced leaking Hydraulic Power Boost Unit. Low pedal then became worse. Then replaced Master Cylinder, still mushy brakes & low pedal. Have bled brake lines several times of air, electronically cleaned ABS system, Still very bad LOW BRAKE PEDAL. Pedal also returns to UP position very slowly after depressing.

Have owned 2000 Winnebago Adventurer 32v for about 1 year, has 45,000 miles. Brakes were never impressive, but now are downright scarry!
Also replaced rear pads and both calipers, to no help. Front pads & calipers very good shape and free of any binding.

Any suggestions, other than 20 feet of log chain with a cement block, will be GREATLY appreciated !

smlranger · 08-04-2006, 04:14 PM

Cuffman:

Welcome to the forum

. Someone with more experience with brakes on these rigs may be able to help. It will be helpful to indicate whether you have a Ford or Workhorse chassis.

Cruzer · 08-04-2006, 06:43 PM

I had a Chevy truck with those symptoms once. It turned out that one of the front rubber brake hoses was bad. The inside tube had delaminated and the hose would bulge slightly under pressure, then it would pinch off the fluid upon returning, which meant that brake took forever to release and the pedal slowly rose. Have somebody work the brake pedal while you have the wheel off. See if the hose gives, then have them release it and see how long it takes until you can spin the brake rotor again.

I'm assuming that your calipers slide nice and free and aren't sticking due to rust or dirt and that you have bled all of the air out of the system and have good fresh fluid, which it sounds like you have already done. I'm also assuming that the master cylinder was properly installed. Other than that, there's not much left.

cuffman · 08-05-2006, 03:47 AM

It is a Workhorse chassis Chevy 454 with Banks package and Gear Vendors addition.

cuffman · 08-07-2006, 05:58 PM

Thanks Cruzer, I tested all the rubber lines and they unfortunately tested O.K. Chevy & Workhorse state that's the way the P32 brakes work around the 2000 era. My 1993 Adventurer had much better brakes, sorry I traded now ! I live next to a school bus garage & the mechanics daily test the school bus brakes - our street is covered with skid marks. I tried to leave skid marks with my MH - the mechanics are laughing at my 20' log chain & the cement block. I guess we don't get much for $125,000 anymore.

FrontRangeRVer · 08-07-2006, 07:18 PM

One of the reasons we sold our '05 Sightseer on the P-32 was the HORRIBLE brakes....You had put some heavy muscle to stop the thing...

Do a search on the Workhorse forum...The P-32 has notorious bad brakes....

cuffman · 08-29-2006, 06:51 PM

Update on the brakes - Workhorse dealer sold us the wrong Hydraulic Booster - Hours of lost labor & sweat. Finally got right part, Brakes never worked better. Thanks for ideas.