Itasca Sunstar 30T and Winnebago Vista 30T

[Still Bill]

We figured it out...Had to reread it a couple times myself.

But, you still started a very interesting topic.

Bill

[Alan McD]

I think I calculated my figures incorrectly. From researching on the internet it looks like the gas/fuel weight is already factored in to the OCCC so I should not include it when calculating the remaining OCCC. That means the Brave 31C isn't as bad as I thought, but at 1406 OCCC that still isn't great.

-Alan

[emcee]

The OCCC on my 2014 Vista 31KE is 4126 (18K chassis). Is that Brave on a 16000 LB chassis? I also see that the Brave chassis is 208" vice 190" for the 31KE. That 18" of steel is heavy. Maybe that's the difference.

[dbaer70]

My 2014, 31KE's OCCC is 2056 lbs, 16K chassis. You got lucky with that 18k chassis emcee!

[Still Bill]

Back to the topic...LOL

Yesterday, we took our Itasca 30T out for its first test drive with the SuperSteer SS400 Rear Track Bar in place. Super nice to not have the tail wag any longer. A winner!

New thing I learned today, is that Bilstein offers a steering stabilizer which fits the F53 chassis for under $100. Not sure what their related mounting bracket costs; but, I assume the whole assembly would be under $200. A fairly cost effective solution for the front end. But, totally happy with my Safe-T-Steer brand steering stabilizer anyway.

Bill

[Still Bill]

I have a 2013 Itasca Sunstar 30T with the fresh water tank syphoning issue. After completely filling the fresh water tank (or anywhere near it), water starts syphoning from the tank in a steady flow. And, while driving, just the action of the water sloshing in the tank will make me lose 1/3 to 1/2 of the water onto the roadway. I am no fun to follow down the road.

Does anyone know how to access the vent hose at the top of the fresh water tank so I can inspect the installation to cure the syphoning?

Bill

[WBandJ]

Originally Posted by Still Bill

I have a 2013 Itasca Sunstar 30T with the fresh water tank syphoning issue. After completely filling the fresh water tank (or anywhere near it), water starts syphoning from the tank in a steady flow. And, while driving, just the action of the water sloshing in the tank will make me lose 1/3 to 1/2 of the water onto the roadway. I am no fun to follow down the road.

Does anyone know how to access the vent hose at the top of the fresh water tank so I can inspect the installation to cure the syphoning?

Bill

The plumbing diagram for your MH shows a valve in the vent line. Does your installation look like this?

[Still Bill]

Wild Bill,

That's likely what I missed. Will check and report back.

Seems that the fresh water tank should be vented 100% of the time; so, why there would be a valve present in the vent line? Odd!

Many thanks.

Bill...not so wild...LOL

[ghutch]

Usually on the top left corner of the tank, there is a vent tube that allows the pump to suck water and prevents, during filling, bursting the tank. If filled to max capacity, syphoning action can begin and will start a flow of water out the vent and can empty the tank a lot. The factory fix was to install a long loop of pex tubing at the tank vent and lays on top of the tank. I was getting a car wash when driving if I filled the tank near the top. This fix has cured my problem for 3 years now. The modification was done at the factory. They knew quickly, what I was describing.
Some owners have installed a valve in the vent/overflow line, but care must be taken when filling. I am not sure how that valve effects the pump's action, seems to me if left closed, it could lead to undesirable results.

[WBandJ]

Originally Posted by Still Bill

Wild Bill,

That's likely what I missed. Will check and report back.

Seems that the fresh water tank should be vented 100% of the time; so, why there would be a valve present in the vent line? Odd!

Many thanks.

Bill...not so wild...LOL

Post #21 of this thread http://www.irv2.com/forums/f101/tank...-217451-2.html describes a valve that does not allow a vacuum to form. Maybe that is style that was used? On our Vista, after the 2nd elbow there is a short length of tubing that loosely slips inside the vertical drain pipe. This gap provides the vacuum break, there is no additional valve.

[Still Bill]

Originally Posted by WBandJ

Post #21 of this thread http://www.irv2.com/forums/f101/tank...-217451-2.html describes a valve that does not allow a vacuum to form. Maybe that is style that was used? On our Vista, after the 2nd elbow there is a short length of tubing that loosely slips inside the vertical drain pipe. This gap provides the vacuum break, there is no additional valve.

Wild Bill,

Will go back to Post #21.

Have not had a chance to get over to the motorhome to check it out yet; but, wanted to say thank you for leading me to where the vent hose is in relation to the top of the fresh water tank...Which I should have scoped out earlier.

Now, will be posting another topic for the 'Peanut Gallery' (circa the Howdy Doody Show)...LOL

Bill

[Still Bill]

We want to replace the Thetford plastic toilet in our 2013 Itasca Sunstar 30T with a larger oval porcelain unit. And because the current unit is mounted up on a step, we need to use a low-profile (14" high) design.

So, the one we really like is the Dometic 321S toilet. But, I cannot find a template showing if it will fit in the allotted space while secured using the standard mounting studs. Somewhat concerned about it having enough clearance between the current mounting bolts and the wall behind the toilet and that it won't stick out too far on the front side too. FYI...There is 9-1/8" from the center of the mounting bolts to that wall. Don't see anything on the Dometic website that tells me; but, I did find that the front-to-back dimension of the 321S is 22".

Here is a link to the 320 series of Dometic toilets.

http://clients2.kaigan.se/dometic/b6...b8af632db4.pdf

Has anyone else taken on this task before? Am I 'out there' in thinking that a larger oval-shaped toilet will fit into a somewhat limited 30T bathroom?

Bill

[dezrtracr]

Originally Posted by ghutch

Usually on the top left corner of the tank, there is a vent tube that allows the pump to suck water and prevents, during filling, bursting the tank. If filled to max capacity, syphoning action can begin and will start a flow of water out the vent and can empty the tank a lot. The factory fix was to install a long loop of pex tubing at the tank vent and lays on top of the tank. I was getting a car wash when driving if I filled the tank near the top. This fix has cured my problem for 3 years now. The modification was done at the factory. They knew quickly, what I was describing.
Some owners have installed a valve in the vent/overflow line, but care must be taken when filling. I am not sure how that valve effects the pump's action, seems to me if left closed, it could lead to undesirable results.

Just trying to make sure I understand correctly. Currently, the vent tube comes out of the top of the tank, then goes down the side of the tank and terminates just below the bin. If I understand correctly, the factory installed a new tube coming out of the vent at the top of the tank, coiled the tube over the top of the tank, then ran it down the side of the tank terminating just below the bin. It that a correct understanding of the modification?

[ghutch]

Originally Posted by dezrtracr

Just trying to make sure I understand correctly. Currently, the vent tube comes out of the top of the tank, then goes down the side of the tank and terminates just below the bin. If I understand correctly, the factory installed a new tube coming out of the vent at the top of the tank, coiled the tube over the top of the tank, then ran it down the side of the tank terminating just below the bin. It that a correct understanding of the modification?

Yes, That was their fix for my unit in Oct.2012. Running changes may have been made in newer production coaches.

[dezrtracr]

Originally Posted by ghutch

Yes, That was their fix for my unit in Oct.2012. Running changes may have been made in newer production coaches.

My 30T was built October 2015 without the fix you describe. The tank siphons about 1/2-3/4" and then stops. It will drain if the coach is low on the drivers side, though.

[ghutch]

Originally Posted by dezrtracr

My 30T was built October 2015 without the fix you describe. The tank siphons about 1/2-3/4" and then stops. It will drain if the coach is low on the drivers side, though.

Why not call WGBO service department in Forest City and ask a service adviser what the fix is for your particular couch and ask them to send the details of the fix to your dealer?

[dezrtracr]

I think I might just do that. Thanks!

[Peter27C]

I drilled two holes above E37 and E42 in the diagram posted a few posts back and moved the "U" bend up and into the compartment under the sink. This stopped the siphoning. When filling, if I overfill the water comes out the inlet on the other side of the coach now.
Hey, it works!
Pete

[Still Bill]

Originally Posted by Peter27C

I drilled two holes above E37 and E42 in the diagram posted a few posts back and moved the "U" bend up and into the compartment under the sink. This stopped the siphoning. When filling, if I overfill the water comes out the inlet on the other side of the coach now.
Hey, it works!
Pete

That is more in line with what I would have expected the solution to be.

But, there is a inlet on the other side of the 30T coach too???

bill

[Peter27C]

Yes, on the drivers side is the mains connection, on the passenger side is a flap that you can push a hose into to top up the tank. I open the compartment that houses the tank so I can see the water level when filling.
Pete