leaking journey heater core

rvrat · 03-22-2007, 05:39 PM

I know that this is not a new discussion, but I have carefully reviewed the many posts about this and have not been able to find the information I hoped for. Since we now have the dreaded leaking heater core in our 02 Journey I am faced with the need to repair it. I am very comfortable with removal and replacement of the lower front cap but I would like to be able to replace the core without that much time and trouble and I saw mention of cutting a window in the front heater box with a dremel tool. I think I would like to try that approach, so I have these questions of those who have done this themselves.

First of all is there room to remove and replace the heater core out of such an opening with the front cap still in place?

Second, if I had x-ray vision to see into the box, how is the heater core shaped and how is it located in the box?

Third any problems with this plan that anyone can see that I need to know about?

Thanks for your help, Bob

rvrat · 03-22-2007, 05:39 PM

I know that this is not a new discussion, but I have carefully reviewed the many posts about this and have not been able to find the information I hoped for. Since we now have the dreaded leaking heater core in our 02 Journey I am faced with the need to repair it. I am very comfortable with removal and replacement of the lower front cap but I would like to be able to replace the core without that much time and trouble and I saw mention of cutting a window in the front heater box with a dremel tool. I think I would like to try that approach, so I have these questions of those who have done this themselves.

First of all is there room to remove and replace the heater core out of such an opening with the front cap still in place?

Second, if I had x-ray vision to see into the box, how is the heater core shaped and how is it located in the box?

Third any problems with this plan that anyone can see that I need to know about?

Thanks for your help, Bob

smlranger · 03-22-2007, 05:51 PM

Bob:

I most recently replaced the core on my '02. The core is mounted more near the top of that square box. Looking directly at the front of the box, the edge of the core, not the face, is toward the front of the box.

I guess anything is possible but, IMO, cutting the box would be problematic. Also, I can't see how you could remove the core from behind the cap, especially with all that stuff in the way.

I dreaded the job but once I got into it, it was not that difficult. I did not completely remove the front cap but was able to hinge it forward and rest it on a ladder. I did all of it without any help with the exception of needing a second set of hands to hold the box together while I reinstalled those pesky little metal clips.

If I had ordered the new core before I started, I suspect I could have done the entire R & R in 6 - 8 hours.

rvrat · 03-22-2007, 06:10 PM

smlranger,
Thanks for your quick response, I was of course hoping you could be more encouraging to my plan but the truth is the truth. I will dig into it this weekend and see how things progress. I think I will try to have a new heater core built at a local radiator shop if the cost is not too out of line so I will need the existing one for them to copy. The good thing is we have not short term plans for using the MH and I can leave it disassembled in our garage for a short time if I have to.
Thanks again Bob

peter griffin · 03-23-2007, 04:41 AM

the leaking heating core did it leak water or antifreeze?

also is there a way to put a shutoff valve near the engine radiator if you did not want the heater core or you wanted to wait to replace it and still use the rv?

also how much was the part?

thanks

smlranger · 03-23-2007, 05:20 AM

Bob:

I found that the local shops wanted more to build a new core than just ordering a new one from Fridgette which was the OEM. In my area, local shops wanted $175 - $190 (copper core re-using my tanks) and Fridgette was about $120 with shipping and sent me some new clamps. Fridgette did advise to ground one of the inlet tubes to the chassis which I did.

Peter:

When the core leaks, it leaks antifreeze.
Mine sprung a leak while on a month-long trip out West. I had anticipated a problem so took along a short plastic straight connector so I could by-pass the core, which I did. I just removed the hoses at the core, tied them together with the connector and kept on truckin'.

peter griffin · 03-23-2007, 08:04 AM

thanks for the info...good luck

rvrat · 03-30-2007, 01:09 PM

Update on leaking Journey heater core,
sorry for the length--------
I disassembled the front lower cap and tilted it out as suggested last weekend--was not as big a job as I expected. After the removal of the leaking original heater core I decided to order a new one and not attempt to get a replacement made nearby.
When I talked to the nice lady @ SCS Frigette she told me that the original type of heater core that came in our Journey was no longer available and had been replaced with an improved model with plastic end tanks. After some discussion during which I was concerned that the new improved model may not fit or function the same as the old one she informed me that the new model is what winni now uses and is all that is available to replace our defective unit.
The end result is that I ordered the new one for $87.55 plus UPS and it arrived today.
It has the plastic end tanks as she indicated and some other changes that I can see. Those changes include the center heat exchanger is all aluminum (can't tell what the material is in the old one) and looks like the radiators in the newer cars that have very fine fins that are close together, also the inlet and outlet tubes are not threaded and do not appear to be removeable. The new core arrived with rubber plugs in the in-out tubes and was under pressure that caused a loud pop when I removed the first rubber plug. It looks like the new model core will eliminate my plan to ground it as mentioned earlier.
I plan to install and reassemble tomorrow with the help of my son.

Bob

Gary CA · 03-30-2007, 03:19 PM

Anticiapting a core replacement in the future, what is the BEST material to use even if it custom made and 2X the cost. Try to prevent the replacement every 5 years.

fun time · 03-30-2007, 04:01 PM

RVRat: Thanks for the update and the info on the new core. Question: did the lady indicate when (year) they changed over to new core? Just thinking ahead. Thanks for your posts

smlranger · 03-30-2007, 05:22 PM

When I ordered the replacement core from SCS Fridgette this past October, it was same as the original.....copper core with brass tanks. My leak was in the core itself and not a tank seam.

Old school would say copper/brass is better but with modern manufacturing techniques I would bet the alum. core with plastic tanks is fine. Suspect the rising cost of copper had something to do with the switch over to aluminum.

rvrat · 03-30-2007, 05:29 PM

fun time,
The gal at Fridgette said that there was a recent change in the core which leads me to believe that the change is current.
Also after more looking at the new core it seems that the plastic enclosures on the ends are not the tanks but just a cover. The new design does not appear to have tanks on the ends at all but two round tubes that connect to the inlet and outlet tubes and wind side by side to and from the ends and through the fins.
The new core clearly does not weight as much as the original. The heating area of the new core has larger round (rather than oval tubes) but less of them than the old core. I am concerned about airflow through the thinner more dense fin locations on the new core, we have been very pleased with the heat output of the old core in some very cold driving conditions. I can only hope that the new design solves the problem of the short life of the old design and is not a more typical cost saving design.

Bob