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Old 06-09-2024, 01:20 PM   #1
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Lithium Install Trombetta Questions 2000 Ultimate Advantage 38K

I don't know if this is the correct thread.

I'm installing LIFEPO4 batteries but the Trombetta solenoid is driving me crazy.

I can't get the alternator power to go directly to the lithium batteries.

I thought had solved the problem removing the Trombetta solenoid and installing a battery switch, leaving it normally open.

Now the current from the alternator no longer reaches the lithium batteries, however the inverter-charger (a Xantrex Freedom SW 3012) now does not charge either the starter batteries and the service batteries.

Have any of you already made these changes?

Where am I doing wrong?

I'll add photos of the changes I made.

Thank you for your kind attention.
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Old 06-13-2024, 04:19 PM   #2
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How do you know the alternator power is not reaching the lithium battery? Are you using an ammeter to monitor the current? If you are monitoring the battery voltage and expecting it to rise when the batteries are charging, you will not see much of an increase in voltage due to the low impedance of the lithium batteries.
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Old 06-15-2024, 05:32 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eyecando View Post
How do you know the alternator power is not reaching the lithium battery? Are you using an ammeter to monitor the current? If you are monitoring the battery voltage and expecting it to rise when the batteries are charging, you will not see much of an increase in voltage due to the low impedance of the lithium batteries.

Simple and obvious, because the lead batteries are still connected, so you can clearly see the difference in voltage.
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Old 06-19-2024, 09:08 PM   #4
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Connecting your drive engine alternator directly to Lithium batteries is a great way to kill the alternator.
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Old 06-20-2024, 02:05 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by Ray,IN View Post
Connecting your drive engine alternator directly to Lithium batteries is a great way to kill the alternator.
In fact they are not connected directly to the alternator but only via DC-DC converter.
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Old 06-20-2024, 12:32 PM   #6
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We may need more info on what has been done on removing the solenoid as that is the normal way for the engine /start battery to connect to the coach battery for charging. When you say a switch was added but left open, that throws some doubt in about how the charge DOES get through to the coach?

This is the drawing of OEM before changes made. The chassis battery as marked in red, went through contacts on the solenoid to connect with the coach as drawn in green.
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What changes did you make to get them connected if you removed this solenoid?

I don't deal with this change but I would assume you would still want the coach battery to charge as you drive but then be isolated when parked as a way to avoid running both sets down?
I'm not sure I see reason to remove the solenoid but I would want the DC-DC to protect the alternator.

Sorry but I get more questions than answers on what's up!
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Old 06-21-2024, 12:59 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by Morich View Post
We may need more info on what has been done on removing the solenoid as that is the normal way for the engine /start battery to connect to the coach battery for charging. When you say a switch was added but left open, that throws some doubt in about how the charge DOES get through to the coach?

This is the drawing of OEM before changes made. The chassis battery as marked in red, went through contacts on the solenoid to connect with the coach as drawn in green.
Click this snip to see better.
Attachment 189250
What changes did you make to get them connected if you removed this solenoid?

I don't deal with this change but I would assume you would still want the coach battery to charge as you drive but then be isolated when parked as a way to avoid running both sets down?
I'm not sure I see reason to remove the solenoid but I would want the DC-DC to protect the alternator.

Sorry but I get more questions than answers on what's up!


As you rightly said, now the direct charging of the alternator only reaches the starting batteries and not the service batteries which are lithium. And this is how it must be, otherwise the alternator would be damaged in the long run.

The charge from the alternator to the service batteries arrives only via the DC-DC converter which avoids damage.

Other than that, removing that horrible, mismatched solenoid and replacing it with a normal battery switch gives you two benefits:

1) In case of emergency, by closing the battery switch, you can always have a booster to start the engine.

2) You avoid wasting a lot of electricity, because that solenoid (and even the relay that controls it) heats up like stoves.

I calculated that over $ 40 of electricity is wasted in a year. For what? In no way! In my opinion, whoever designed that system should have failed their first year of engineering.
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Old 06-21-2024, 08:44 AM   #8
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HUMM!
So what you are saying is that you have a much better way to do it but the problem is it doesn't work?
I'm thinking I'll drop out of this discussion!
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Old 06-22-2024, 09:53 AM   #9
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Trombetta is a brand name of a solenoid, not a specific function.
You're trying to out-think the electrical engineers who designed this system, good luck with that. I recommend re-installing the OEM equipment.
Without seeing your home-brew installation it's impossible to guess which wire/cable goes/and originates from where.
I do know the Xantrex must be wired directly to the coach/house battery bank and incoming 120VAC to work as designed. It's covered in the installation manual.
reference: https://xantrex.com/wp-content/uploa...uide_ENG-1.pdf
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Old 06-22-2024, 01:39 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Morich View Post
HUMM!
So what you are saying is that you have a much better way to do it but the problem is it doesn't work?
I'm thinking I'll drop out of this discussion!


You read it wrong. Works well!

I'm simply asking opinions on the matter.
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Old 06-22-2024, 01:40 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ray,IN View Post
Trombetta is a brand name of a solenoid, not a specific function.
You're trying to out-think the electrical engineers who designed this system, good luck with that. I recommend re-installing the OEM equipment.
Without seeing your home-brew installation it's impossible to guess which wire/cable goes/and originates from where.
I do know the Xantrex must be wired directly to the coach/house battery bank and incoming 120VAC to work as designed. It's covered in the installation manual.
reference: https://xantrex.com/wp-content/uploa...uide_ENG-1.pdf

And in fact the inverter remains connected like this.
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