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05-29-2019, 04:15 PM
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#21
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Winnebago Camper
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Seattle
Posts: 25
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Thanks Jim,
That’s my plan - next oil change soon, will be adding only 20 Qts. Does your extended slobber tube go straight down or out the back. And, do you use SImple Green for aluminum and spray both forward $ rearward?
Jim
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05-29-2019, 05:01 PM
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#22
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Winnebago Master
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Full time RV'er
Posts: 1,206
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seacrazy
Thanks Jim,
That’s my plan - next oil change soon, will be adding only 20 Qts. Does your extended slobber tube go straight down or out the back. And, do you use SImple Green for aluminum and spray both forward $ rearward?
Jim
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The slobber tube heads back to the back bumper and is lashed to it on the passenger side under the radiator in a way that you can't see it without lying on the ground. There is a little bit of slobber on the bumper (but underneath so not visible from above) opposite where the passenger side headlight of my toad would be, a couple feet away of course, but I've never had slobber on the toad.
Probably haven't had to clean the toad because I let the oil from the consignment lot blow out for 7 months before I started towing. Once it got down to 20 qts or so, it doesn't blow out any more.
I use the Simple Green - Purple (for AL) and spray from a large type squirt bottle from up above in the bedroom, from down under the engine, and from the back. I have a gallon jug of the Simple and I follow the directions as far as concentration. I also start the engine and spray the Simple letting the fan force it into the rad.
Spray it with water heated in the hose...let it lay out in the sun full of water before doing the job, spray everything first before the Simple, wait, start the engine, apply the Simple from the engine side of the rad, shut off the engine, wait, rinse. Then repeat.
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05-30-2019, 11:47 AM
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#23
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Winnebago Master
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 544
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Seacrazy, looks like Jim an I are giving you very similar advice.
Can't t speak to Jim's engine or configuration of components. But on my '07 with Cummins ISB, the only way to get at the fan, CAC, etc is by laying on my back underneath. Messy and still do not have full access. Can reach nothing from above due to shroud. Thus my kayak hatch go around.
To your specific questions to me, on my rig, there is about 4 or 5 inches between the CAC and radiator. Like Jim, we mix solution to package concentrations. Heavy 1:3 dilution. I open my kayak hatch, wet everything down, apply the solution with a common 1 gallon garden sprayer to the fan blades, both sides of the CAC, fwd side of radiator, then go outside and apply to aft side radiator. Go have a cool drink. BUT, rinse before the solution drys using hot water from house water heater. Repeat of needed. Greatly needed first time. Now, one time annually suffices.
When I have convinced my self that I have remove all of the cleaning solution, I do start the engine to dry everything out. Only because where we live, a variety of critters will climb in seeking water. I have other posts about my never ending war with packrats and gray squirrels.
Jim's oil management observations are something I intend to explore. Likely take me some time to "evolve". Jim refers to a Cat, I have a Cummins. Also, as an old main space engineer, diesel & steam, I have always worshipped at the altar of oil. But, I am a man, I can change, I guess, If I have to. 😉
Fair Winds and Following Seas
__________________
Terry & Rosalina
2007 Winnebago Journey 34SE
Retired Navy Mustang & Navy Wife
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06-02-2019, 08:21 PM
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#24
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Winnebago Camper
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Seattle
Posts: 25
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Yesterday I finished cleaning radiator & CAC as Jim & Terry guided me, thx guys. That SG purple with hot water is incredible how well it cleans grease off. It may have been a little too good, as it peeled some of paint off the (engine side) of CAC. Just hope the chipped off paint doesn’t cause any future issues. I have eaten off dirtier plates!
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06-02-2019, 08:41 PM
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#25
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Winnebago Master
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Full time RV'er
Posts: 1,206
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seacrazy
Yesterday I finished cleaning radiator & CAC as Jim & Terry guided me, thx guys. That SG purple with hot water is incredible how well it cleans grease off. It may have been a little too good, as it peeled some of paint off the (engine side) of CAC. Just hope the chipped off paint doesn’t cause any future issues. I have eaten off dirtier plates!
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You are welcome. I found that it never gets all of the goop in between the fins of the rad out but it gets enough that my travels up mountains are fairly comfortable, only have to downshift a few times generally. Sure I could remove the rad and give it a thorough cleaning but what fun is that?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Oldchinahand
Seacrazy, looks like Jim an I are giving you very similar advice.
Snip
Jim's oil management observations are something I intend to explore. Likely take me some time to "evolve". Jim refers to a Cat, I have a Cummins. Also, as an old main space engineer, diesel & steam, I have always worshipped at the altar of oil. But, I am a man, I can change, I guess, If I have to. 😉
Fair Winds and Following Seas
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I owned a Cummins 5.9 for several years before the Cat and I did a bunch of research back then. One thing I found is that both Cummins and Cat make note of how much oil the pan can contain and what the minimum amount is to keep the oil pressure up to par. The reductions I make in the amount of operating oil is above the minimums in the pan mentioned by both Cummins and Cat. And yes, I've accounted for the different pan sizes they have for different engine usage.
They advise the chassis and house manufacturers, if they care to notice, about how to mark the dip stick too but that is often not done, or done incorrectly. But it's your rig, best to make your own study.
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