Need help running a wire in a Suncruiser

[Bob Hatch]

Michael, If your breaker box is a Cutler-Hammer, and it most probably is, you can get the breaker from any place that sells Cutler-Hammer stuff. Secondly, you don't want a double breaker, you want a quad breaker. It's a 20/50/50/20. Double pole, but quad breaker. If you can't find it a Lowe's, or a local electrical place, you can order it from a Winnebago Parts dept. The Winnebago part number is 12281-01-000. It's on page 78 of the Winnebago parts catalog. When you install this breaker, it will be in the first (2) positions on the box. Because it taps both bus bars, the 20 will run the front AC, the 50 feeds one bus bar, the next 50 feeds the second bus bar, and the next 20 runs the rear AC. (Clear as mud?)

The dual breakers you need for other places are on page 79 of the same book.

As to the split loom question, I kept it in split all the way into the breaker box. I did not want anything clamping on the wire or rubbing against it, without protection.

I've been thinking about the AC connections out of the ATS, and just want to make sure you have them right, in your own head. If you want, email me regrading this. If you're positive you've got them right, ignore me.

[mrschwarz]

Here's what I did: I ran the Carlon tubing through the side of the compartment and all the way to an existing hole into the false floor behind the breaker box. I ran the Romex into the breaker box and clamped it directly. I don't see that as a big deal.

Wiring the ATS was no big deal. I pulled the three smaller Romex wires out of it. The two #12's I tied together for the second air conditioner. The third one is the #10 that was the original feed from shore power. They sure went to a lot of trouble to save a couple of bucks by not wiring it for 50 amps.

I spent a couple of hours thinking about the EMS and ATS before I actually started work. (By the way, 103 degree heat is probably not the best time to work outside.) Even though you told me that you didn't make changes to the way it was wired, I studied the manual. Here's how the system knows what's going on:

There are two terminals for sensing AC voltage and one for 12 volts DC. When there is 240 volts across the terminals, the EMS assumes that it is connected to 50 amps and shuts the display off.

When there is 120 volts across the two terminals and no voltage on the 12-volt terminal, EMS assumes that it is connected to 30 or 20 amps, you have to select. It then manages the loads based on the selection.

When there is 120 volts across the 2 terminals and there is voltage on the 12-volt terminal, the EMS assumes that the generator is running. It shows the current draw on the display, but doesn't manage the load.

It was originally wired with both AC terminals jumpered together. This means that it would only sense 120 volts (generator on or off). I removed the jumper and wired a circuit from the other leg to the other terminal.

When I connected the 50-amp circuit, the EMS correctly sensed it and shut the display off. When I started the generator, it correctly sensed that it was running and turned the display on showing the load. I turned enough on to pull 35 amps, which it did without a problem.

I was going to test for 30 amps by connecting a 50 amp to 30 amp adapter to a 30 amp to 50 amp adapater, but I haven't found the latter one since I got the new coach. I'll find it (or get a new one) and test that, too.

I haven't mount the box for the new electric outlet and the AC wires, yet. Also, I found a 20-30-30-20 Murray quad circuit breaker that fit the box. I works for the moment, until I get the new one. Thanks for the part number.

I appreciate everyone's help getting this done. Your advice was invaluable. By the way, I have about 80 feet of Carlon tubing left over, if anyone needs some. It was cheaper to buy the whole roll instead of by the foot.

[Bob Hatch]

Michael, sounds like you got it right. Like you said, they really went to a lot of work to make the system 30 amp. It would have been easier to make the rig 50 amp to start with. The nice thing is that when Winnebago built the rig, all the parts were 120/240 and ready for 50 amp service. You didn't have to buy a whole lot to do the conversion.

Now you will be able to run both AC's, water heater, fridge, microwave, toaster, both TV's, and a hair dryer, and never pop a breaker. Cool huh?

Were you able to find the proper breaker for the 20/50/50/20 on the box?

[mrschwarz]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Were you able to find the proper breaker for the 20/50/50/20 on the box? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

I am still looking for that. I found a 20-30-30-20 that I am using temporarily. The first guy I spoke with told me that I he never heard of something like that. If I cannot find one, I'll call the Winnebago dealer and order the part number you gave me.

Thanks for your help.