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Old 09-23-2018, 07:40 PM   #1
Winnebago Camper
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: St Michaels, MD
Posts: 28
Problem re-pressurizing after ‘Retract All Jack’

We purchased our ‘09 Winnebago Journey 34y about four months ago in Florida. While been RVing four yrs in a (gas) Class A, This is our first DP, so a multi- function chassis air system was new to us. The big dealer said they did a 100+ item full pre-sale inspection and our post warrarenty Aldo sent/ did a separate inspection... all good. But on the drive back to MD home I was aware that our RV seemed to be blowing off air more frequently (and I thought more violently) than other DPs. But all that I asked just said ‘they all do that... you’ll get use to it. Being an engineer and with more than average engine/ mechanical background it just didn’t seem right and immediately went to our local (but not full service). As soon as the owner heard the blow off of air he agreed something wasn’t right and we took it to the local truck repair shop/ certified Cummings enigine repair. They found ‘the worse clogged air dryer they’ve ever seen. So much for big dealer 100 Point pre-sale inspections). They clean it and replaced the filter. Thought all was fixed.

Current issue: We left for 60 day zig-zag trip up through New England. We have have had serious re- pressurization issues during ONLY the morning start-up. I think the fact that it only happens in morning is big clue that so far the four repair shops we have had to visit haven’t focused enough on and after four shop visits and great impact to RV Park reservations and bills totaling over $2k, we’re still having same very slow re-pressurization issue as developed the first two weeks into the trip.

Here’s what we’re seeing...

- During the prior day all seems to be working normally, other than maybe excessive frequency of blow-offs
- At end of day’s trip at RV Park we engauge the Auto- Levelers... still all normal
- Next morning at start-up the two pressure gauges read about 90 psi and build up in 3-5 minutes at idle to 120 and we hear to blow-off
- At this point I engage ‘Retract All Jacks’
- This is where the problem starts... as the air bags dump their air I see the driver’s side air pressure quickly drop to below 60 psi (once to 30 psi)
- Once the bags have lowered all the the levelers, which are electric/ hydraulic retract
- This process usually take several more minutes but the air gauge pressure still sits at 60 (or 30) psi
- I have waited as much as 20-3O minutes at idle with pressure still not moving past 60 psi.. and the Brake Alarm still beeping
- I finally learned (in desperation) that after 10-20 minutes of idle, if I now rev the engine to 2000 rpm or a little more, I now just begin to see the pressure slowly increase. But if I let the RPMs fall the pressure will stop/ fall a little.
- After several repeates (so far) of 2000 rpm revs (after the already 15-20 minutes of idle the pressure will finally begin to very slowly rise on its own at idle
- It starts to rise slowly at first to 90 psi or so and then rapidly to 120 and finally blow
- Once it reaches 120 psi and finally blows it seems to hold/ repressure normally after releasing Emergency brake/ normal braking getting out of RV spot and causiosly braking getting out of RV park

- At end of day, I can do auto- level, let sit.., ‘Retrack All Jacks’ and there is no air pressure drop like experienced during every morning ‘cold start up’. I and every shop we have been to have done as many as four complete auto-leveling/ all jacks retrace all jacks retract with no re-.pressurization issues. This drives them to discount my experience/ reality thatvit only happens in the initial ‘cold start’ morning situation and they stay focused on trying to find a leak.
-I feel it’s one of the valves... maybe the shuttle valve that over night gets ‘stuck’ takes time, pressure, heat, engine vibration to free itself on the morning and after that, all act/ performs normally. Remember the initial very air- dryer ... could water/ debris have gotten through that filter and clogged/ corroded a sensitive valve down stream? On that shuttle valve... I understand there are 12v entergisecwires on eithervside that when triggered pull the shuttle right or left.., could a dirty contact cause our issue?

As Fall/ Winter approaches, I fear (if I’m right, I could get stuck in a RV Park without being able to re-pressure. But so far repair shops either don’t have the proper experience, test gear or replacement parts/ valves... socreaching out here to hopefully find others with experience, tests, recommended RV shops near MD that can finally find/ fix this issue.
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Old 09-23-2018, 08:35 PM   #2
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Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Black Hills, South Dakota
Posts: 90
mine tends to not build air as quickly as I like (or at all) at cold start while idling. I simply idle it up to 1500-2000 rpms and set the cruise control. That way the air comes up relatively quickly (2-3 minutes or less) and can then idle down by a quick press on the brake to cancel the cruise. Not a big issue and beats idling for lengthy periods.
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Old 09-23-2018, 09:28 PM   #3
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Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Full-timer/volunteer w/SOWERS
Posts: 2,740
Radioflyer,

First: NEVER idle a dp. Push the button in the end of the directional arm to boost the rpm up. Cruse must be on.
Second: At each air tank you have a lanyard. Pulling these will blow any water that may be in your tanks. You may have one of the auto blow valves not resealing correctly. This may help. Spraying soapy water on all of the are line fittings and devices will reveal any leaks.
Go back to Cummins to see if they missed something. In truth, the dryer is a chassis component. Freightliner is a better place to go or a commercial bus repair shop.

How much mileage is on the coach? You would do yourself a favor by going the Gaffney, SC. Make an appointment with the Freightliner factory service center for a chassis tune-up. They inspect everything in the drive line, tighten bolts and adjust the ride height, among other things. (1-800-385-4357)
Third: The jacks and air pressure are not related at all. Separate systems like potable water and the inverter are.

I hope these suggestions help.
Rick
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