Pull or Drive?

[SpirSage]

Okay, so this post sent the dolly back for full refund! Lol
I downsized 2016 Lincoln to 2015 Chevrolet Equinox which, aside from losing keyless entry, I like even better than MKC.
Now I’m researching tow bar systems with my service advisor at LaMesa RV.
Being alone, not taking any chances...
Thanks.

Originally Posted by YGoHom

Well...they can be tricky. I'm pretty experienced with pulling flatbed trailers and boats and have a good handle on how to avoid or get out of situations.

Except this one.

Driving on the freeway doing 55, we started a slightly downhill stretch of highway. The car/dolly started swaying back and forth, to the point that all traffic slowed behind me waiting to see what was going to happen.
I had to get into the 2nd of 4 lanes to stay off the shoulder. I was taking up 3 lanes at this point. Back and forth.
Braking is not recommended in this situation, so...
I tried speeding up to pull out of it. Nope.
I tried to slow. No luck.
Having nothing to lose, I hit the brakes. Hard.

That worked.

We pulled to the shoulder, got out of the truck, and walked in circles in shock. "Holy sh*t! What just happened?!"

It was easily one of the scariest moments in my life.

Four wheels down ever since.

[YGoHom]

I think you'll be happier in the end this way. And it's a bonus that you like the Chevy more!

Check out the Ready Brute Elite. Tow bar and brake in one system. Very easy to hook up the toad by myself. Nothing wedged on the floor to press the brake pedal.
You'll need to have the brake pedal cable installed, but it's a one time thing. Just like installing the base plate on the toad. I like the Blue Ox connection pieces.

[WinnieView]

Originally Posted by SpirSage

Okay, so this post sent the dolly back for full refund! Lol
I downsized 2016 Lincoln to 2015 Chevrolet Equinox which, aside from losing keyless entry, I like even better than MKC.
Now I’m researching tow bar systems with my service advisor at LaMesa RV.
Being alone, not taking any chances...
Thanks.

With the Equinox if it's the 4-cylinder which has the electronic power steering (EPS) you should be aware of this notice from GM last year.

We have its cousin the GMC Terrain and we have not had the problem so we have not changed from the owners manual.

P.S. We currently have all Demco towing equipment but have used Roadmaster in the past without issue.

[SpirSage]

I just sent a request to price this system with my service advisor.
Thank you so much!!

Originally Posted by YGoHom

I think you'll be happier in the end this way. And it's a bonus that you like the Chevy more!

Check out the Ready Brute Elite. Tow bar and brake in one system. Very easy to hook up the toad by myself. Nothing wedged on the floor to press the brake pedal.
You'll need to have the brake pedal cable installed, but it's a one time thing. Just like installing the base plate on the toad. I like the Blue Ox connection pieces.

[BobC]

Another vote for the Ready Brute Elite, simple, relatively inexpensive and easy to hook up and unhook. Plus there's nothing to haul in and out of your vehicle and it doesn't depend on electricity, electronics or hydraulics to work.

Depending on your toad, you may need to add a charge circuit to keep its battery charged. I know my Honda requires continuous battery power to keep some transmission solenoids activated and a rundown battery could cause transmission failure. You'll see many posts about installing a battery cut-off switch to prevent it's running down due to parasitic current loads but this can be problematical for many vehicles so be careful. Fortunately adding such a circuit is simple and inexpensive. Here's what I added:

https://rvibrake.com/products/towed-...8aAl-sEALw_wcB

Many just add a simple charge line without the "smart" charging technology but, for the price I decided to go "smart". I'm planning on adding an LED monitor light of some sort that I'll be able to see in my rear view camera to ensure that my toad's battery is charged.

[SpirSage]

I got a great price for the Brute Elite.
With respect to all the other recommendations, charge circuits, led monitor lights, battery cut-off switches, fuse 15
Vs 32....whoa... my head is spinning.

[SpirSage]

I’ve just hung up with LaMesa parts guru. These are her responses.

Someone on the Winni forum sent this:
http://www.winnieowners.com/forums/f...ml#post3835300


Will I have to remove fuses?
No

Is there a bypass so as to not to have to do that?
Na

Also, will you install brake pedal cable, which is a one-time thing, right?
Yes wiring to brute elite

I’ve been told that the blue
Ox connection pieces are great.
Base plate is blue ox!

Also, will I need to add a charge circuit to keep its battery charged?
No, alternator will charge as I drive

I know that some cars require continuous battery power to keep some transmission solenoids activated and a rundown battery could cause transmission failure.
Do you recommend adding charge line with the "smart" charging technology?
No

Lastly, what about an LED monitor light of some sort that will allow me to be able to see in my rear view camera to ensure that my toad's battery is charged?
Waiting for service advisor to reply

[BobC]

Here's my take on what La Mesa has told you:

Will I have to remove fuses?
No -- Per the instructions the link below, you should pull fuse #32 to prevent battery from running down on "longer trips".

Is there a bypass so as to not to have to do that?
Na

Also, will you install brake pedal cable, which is a one-time thing, right?
Yes wiring to brute elite -- They'll probably say yes but confirm that they install both the brake actuating cable and the break-away brake cable.

I’ve been told that the blue
Ox connection pieces are great.
Base plate is blue ox!

Also, will I need to add a charge circuit to keep its battery charged?
No, alternator will charge as I drive -- This is bogus, the alternator is belt driven off the engine and, unless the engine is running, the alternator will not run. The charge circuit won't be necessary on your vehicle as long as you pull fuse #32.

I know that some cars require continuous battery power to keep some transmission solenoids activated and a rundown battery could cause transmission failure.
Do you recommend adding charge line with the "smart" charging technology?
No -- They're correct in that the Equinox doesn't require any solenoids to be activated. The charge circuit might still be nice to have if you're going to tow for long periods without driving it. Even with pulling fuse #32, I suspect there will be some battery draw.

Lastly, what about an LED monitor light of some sort that will allow me to be able to see in my rear view camera to ensure that my toad's battery is charged?
Waiting for service advisor to reply -- IMHO this is a "belt and suspenders" thing, and can't hurt.

It does look like you purchased the perfect vehicle for a toad although I see that towing isn't recommended for the AWD:

Chevrolet Equinox: Towing It Behind An RV | GM Authority

[SpirSage]

The service people are having a difficult time installing the brake system wiring for the brute elite.
Going into second day and I’m still without my car.
Something about the cable “which must be run in a straight line and with the steering column in the way, it is very challenging.”
Any thoughts?
Thanks.

Originally Posted by YGoHom

I think you'll be happier in the end this way. And it's a bonus that you like the Chevy more!

Check out the Ready Brute Elite. Tow bar and brake in one system. Very easy to hook up the toad by myself. Nothing wedged on the floor to press the brake pedal.
You'll need to have the brake pedal cable installed, but it's a one time thing. Just like installing the base plate on the toad. I like the Blue Ox connection pieces.

[YGoHom]

I'm sorry, I don't have any experience with the Chevy installation. I've done 2 Jeeps and a Toyota truck, which wasn't easy.

I just tried searching for some help for you, but didn't really come up with anything. No videos or installation pics.

If your installers aren't familiar with this system, that may add to their frustration.
It doesn't have to be a straight line. Large curves are ok, just no sharp bends.
If the metal cable will slide easily in the outer shield, you're fine. Just secure the outer shield everywhere there is a bend so that the cable slides inside, rather than trying to move the entire cable/shield. The shield must be fixed.

It's the same thing as a brake cable on a bicycle.

I hope this makes sense.

[BobC]

It only needs to run in a straight line from the fire wall to the brake pedal. You might want to tell them that the Ready Brake company's tech is very helpful. He spent about 15 minutes on the phone with me, answering my questions.

The same applies to the break-away cable. Since it's not encased in a casing, it's going to rub against things when pulled but, if it ever actuates, it's going to be subjected to a strong pull, which most likely will one-time event.

You'll want to make sure they install the break-away cable in a way that the one-way fitting is accessible so that you can reach the release button if the break-away cable ever accidentally gets pulled since it needs to have some slack in it.

[SpirSage]

It was done but not without two days of huge hassle.
LaMesa now sees what you all love about this system.
What was a pain in the butt to them is now easy peasy for me.
They see that the initial wiring of brake system was a one-time deal.
LaMesa now loves this system thanks to you all, and And I was able to unhook my car in a matter of minutes.
Perfect! So do I.
Oh, and my home just sold today.
The RV, car, my boys and I are ready to roll.
Thank you for your great advice!

Originally Posted by BobC

It only needs to run in a straight line from the fire wall to the brake pedal. You might want to tell them that the Ready Brake company's tech is very helpful. He spent about 15 minutes on the phone with me, answering my questions.

The same applies to the break-away cable. Since it's not encased in a casing, it's going to rub against things when pulled but, if it ever actuates, it's going to be subjected to a strong pull, which most likely will one-time event.

You'll want to make sure they install the break-away cable in a way that the one-way fitting is accessible so that you can reach the release button if the break-away cable ever accidentally gets pulled since it needs to have some slack in it.

[BobC]

Have fun and let's hope you never need the break-away cable.

[SpirSage]

???

Originally Posted by BobC

Have fun and let's hope you never need the break-away cable.

[SpirSage]

Tell me more.
I took vids of the orientation....
Thanks for your help.

You'll want to make sure they install the break-away cable in a way that the one-way fitting is accessible so that you can reach the release button if the break-away cable ever accidentally gets pulled since it needs to have some slack in it.

[YGoHom]

There are 2 wire cables...

The black cable essentially attaches the brake pedal to the tow bar for braking as you drive. This should have about 2" of vertical slack in the middle if adjusted correctly. I've found that this cable will need 1 additional adjustment after use due to a slight amount of cable stretch.

The break away cable is the little red box and thin red cable. This is the emergency brake of the system and only comes into play in a worst case scenario.

F there were an emergency situation such as your Chevy somehow became detached from the RV, the red cable gets pulled which then applies and HOLDS the brakes on the Chevy so it doesn't drive off and hit someone.
This cable needs sufficient slack so it doesn't engage during any normal driving.

If the emergency happens, you need to easily access the red box to release the cable and brakes.

[SpirSage]

Hi,
Is this the cable you’re referring to?
I’ve attached photo of mechanic tutorial. Thanks.

[BobC]

Originally Posted by YGoHom

There are 2 wire cables...

The black cable essentially attaches the brake pedal to the tow bar for braking as you drive. This should have about 2" of vertical slack in the middle if adjusted correctly. I've found that this cable will need 1 additional adjustment after use due to a slight amount of cable stretch.

The break away cable is the little red box and thin red cable. This is the emergency brake of the system and only comes into play in a worst case scenario.

F there were an emergency situation such as your Chevy somehow became detached from the RV, the red cable gets pulled which then applies and HOLDS the brakes on the Chevy so it doesn't drive off and hit someone.
This cable needs sufficient slack so it doesn't engage during any normal driving.

If the emergency happens, you need to easily access the red box to release the cable and brakes.

The slack in the red emergency cable can be accidentally pulled out by accident or by a curious person. In this case you will also need access to the red box to activate the release button and restore the slack.

[SpirSage]

Hi
Thanks for your help.

[SpirSage]

I’m trying to attach a video of tutorial but I’m not seeing it.