Slide and coach cutoff switch

[rhb50]

I have a 2015 Itasca Sunstar 27N. Had an incident when we were leaving a campground on our first night out, the rear slide would not come in. There was no noise when the switch was depressed to bring the slide in. Called a tech and he came out, held the switch in the open position for a minute and tried it. The slide came in. He said his experience with the Schwintek slides sometimes has this issue. No problem the rest of our trip. Anybody have this happen? Also having problems with the coach cutoff switch. Working intermittently, he checked the electric system and said the capacitor may be going. Any suggestions? Could it just be a bad switch?

Thanks

[Morich]

No help here on the slide but some thoughts on the disconnect?

Sheet 2 of this drawing:
https://www.winnebago.com/Files/File...ire_188335.pdf

This is an area which is changing from the older electronics as solid state comes into use. This used to be called a "mode solenoid" and it now is called a battery isolation manager (BIM) when they went solid state. It is a bit harder to work on now as we can't look/see and hear things move, so we have to do more testing with meters, etc. but the disconnect switch part is still pretty much the same.

There is a switch which closes a circuit as long as we are holding that switch. If we rock it one way it engages/closes the power to the coach or rocked the other way it opens that power. So the switch CAN be bad.

But that switch wiring goes to a battery disconnect relay and that wiring and relay have to also be good, so we have to test which part is not right.

Click this snip to get a better view to see what I'm looking at here?

The drawing tells us that the coach disconnect uses circuits LG, FM and LH. Using that info and this chart:
https://www.winnebago.com/Files/File...ical_guide.pdf

We can find that FM is the ground, LG is the positive power to engage and LH is the positive battery to disengage.

Each wire should have a code stamped on the wire as this example shows.
If we go to the relay and test that we have goodground on the ground wire then watch the LG or LH wires to see that power showson them when somebody pushes the switch, we can tell that the switch is good and the wires aregetting to the relay okay. That means the relay must not be working right if it doesn't connect/ disconnect as it should.

On older RV we couldjust listen and tell if the relay jumped but I have not worked on the newer to knowwhat we might hear or feel there. Maybe you can hear it move and don't need totest the battery and ground if it is moving???

The idea of this relay is that it uses power only while we are pushing the switch and then there is a magnet gizmo which holds it in the last position,so that we don't need to use battery fulltime.

One thing to be aware of in using this is that it does need 12 volt battery power tomove that realy, so if your coach battery is really low, you may not get the relay to work! That "could" lead tothinking it funky, just because it operates funny when the batteries are low??
Make sure to have good battery power before jumping to thinking the relay, etc bad!