Supporting Jacks

Tf78933 · 10-16-2021, 12:35 PM

New owner of a 2016 Winnebago Sightseer 37Z. I’ve been reading that it’s not a good idea to over extend your jacks when leveling. I’ve cut up my 2x8’s but how do I know where to place them. Ideally, I lower the jacks a bit so I can see where to place the blocks. Is that possible or do I just eyeball the positioning before I hit ‘auto leveling’? Thanks for your help.

**creativepart** · 10-16-2021, 12:54 PM

"Over extend" would be taking your jacks to the top of the range. It's only a thing if you are on an extreme grade and lifting your wheels off the ground. Which is a really bad thing if it's the rear wheels. Front wheels off the ground is a matter of personal opinion. I'm not too worried about it, but many others are.

Perhaps you are over extending your worry about this? If you feel you need jack pads they do make some that attach to the bottom of your jacks and are always in the right place.

Maybe I'm naive but, I don't worry about over extending my jacks. I guess we'll see what other say about this.

Bones2003 · 10-16-2021, 01:54 PM

I almost always use my 2" x 10" boards under the jacks and I generally just eyeball placing them but that is after doing it a lot. The first few times my accuracy wasn't that good but I got better after practice. We hardly ever use auto-level because it tends to raise the RV up higher than necessary in my opinion but lots of people always auto-level. I generally stand outside and my wife manually levels very quickly - she's become an expert at it. We also use a cell phone app that tells us how many inches we need to raise each corner.

I'm not sure if this is logical or not but people don't worry about over-retracting their jacks so I'm not sure over-extending is much different as far as the jacks are concerned. I can see arguments about not over-extending because it could raise tires off the ground or put some kind of extra stresses on the vehicle suspension.

DavidM · 10-16-2021, 02:59 PM

I think extending the jacks beyond what is required to level has two possible problems, one mild and one serious.

The mild problem is that the higher you jack up your rig, the more unstable it becomes because it is supported by a longer jack extension. That is a mild problem and you can probably ignore it.

But as Creativepart notes above, never ever let the rear wheels even begin to come off of the ground. Why? Because the transmission wheel lock only works on the rear tires. With the rear wheels off of the ground you have nothing to keep your RV from rolling forward or back.

It is also a good idea to use tire chocks on the tires that are solidly on the ground to provide another way to block your RV from moving.

David

Morich · 10-16-2021, 06:15 PM

And if you are in soft ground or a place where the jacks might punch an unwanted holes, I carry 2X boards, just in case!
But I don't like to work or crawl under to place the boards so have a DIY helper.

You may have run across wiener roasting wires that have a long handle with two wires at the end for doing two wieners?
If you drill a couple holes in the 2X and bend the wire ends down 90 degrees, the long handle makes a fine way to avoidcrawling or working too hard! It lets yu stand up to position the boards or snag them out when dones!

This works for me and fit's 3/4 inch holes really easy:

https://www.cabelas.com/shop/en/bass...E&gclsrc=aw.ds

Tf78933 · 10-16-2021, 07:49 PM

Great tip. I drilled a hole in the corner of each block and ran a line through it to help me retrieve the blocks but does nothing for placement. I’m using your idea.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Morich

And if you are in soft ground or a place where the jacks might punch an unwanted holes, I carry 2X boards, just in case!
But I don't like to work or crawl under to place the boards so have a DIY helper.

You may have run across wiener roasting wires that have a long handle with two wires at the end for doing two wieners?
If you drill a couple holes in the 2X and bend the wire ends down 90 degrees, the long handle makes a fine way to avoidcrawling or working too hard! It lets yu stand up to position the boards or snag them out when dones!

This works for me and fit's 3/4 inch holes really easy:

https://www.cabelas.com/shop/en/bass...E&gclsrc=aw.ds

Wayne M · 10-17-2021, 10:06 AM

Something not mentioned: Some RV's dump the air when auto-or-manual level button is pushed. To high of a pile of blocks can bottom out the frame. My previous manual on the 2008 said no more than 3 inches of blocks as it is possible that when retracting the jacks will not clear the block.

Another item for placing wood blocks after drilling a hole is to use the awning rod. It doesn't matter where the hole is as when pushing the rod the block will spin and the rod will be in the rear. It will keep it going in the direction intended. The rod is also used to retract the block.

On diesel pushers with air brakes there is no transmission lock. The absents of air locks the brake drums on the rear wheels only. Raising the rear wheels off the ground is very dangerous.

**creativepart** · 10-17-2021, 10:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wayne M

Something not mentioned: Some RV's dump the air when auto-or-manual level button is pushed.

On a diesel pusher... yep. But not on the OP's gas Class A.

Wayne M · 10-18-2021, 06:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by creativepart

On a diesel pusher... yep. But not on the OP's gas Class A.

Well of course! Everyone should know if they have air bags that dump such as on DP's. That's why I said "some RV's."

catmandoo62 · 10-18-2021, 09:45 PM

on mine i think i have a slightly bent front jack.i never had a problem retracting the jacks until we were at a campground where i really needed to extend the fronts to get level.it was to the point the front wheels were just off the ground.when we went to leave and i went to retract the mh dropped but the controls said i still had the rf jack extended.i had a heck of a time getting it back up.ended up getting a hyd jack to jack it up so i could get a pry bar between the wood block and the jack and prying up.ever since then i have blocked to where i have an inch or 2 between the blocks and bottom of the jacks and so far no problems.

Chaffeekid · 02-15-2022, 09:09 AM

An eye hook on the end of your board and your awning wand, you have one don't you? Then you can push them to where you need them and retrieve them without getting your knees dirty

deckape · 02-15-2022, 11:26 AM

I also use 2 X 8's and 2 X 10's for leveling jacks and tires. I've found that if I use wood under the jack then I will need wood under the tire . If I need two boards ,I have double stacked boards making a ramp ,then drilled two 5/8 hole thru boards and will put a 5/8 dowel thru to secure them together ,and marked 1a 1b . . Easily removed by knocking the dowel out. All the boards have a 4' rope attached to pull them out when time to remove them . I eye ball where to put them under the jacks and use them also where pad is dirt or gravel .

Swampy · 02-21-2022, 03:18 PM

I don’t use blocks under my jacks. Figured the jacks are meant to do their job without assistance. YMMV

wyocamper · 02-21-2022, 05:53 PM

I've been in a couple parks with asphalt pads that required either jack pads or blocks, but I have my 2' long 2x8 blocks anyway. They help to distribute the load and keep the jack pad from sinking into soft dirt or mud when we're boondocking. I put the jacks down part way, slide the blocks under and then proceed to level. Auto level seems to raise the RV too high for no real reason, so manual only. Lower the fronts till they make contact with the blocks, then the same with the rear. Then raise the front till level and then adjust side-to-side as needed. I don't always get a green dot on the LCI panel, but if I'm only off by +/- .1º I don't worry too much about it.

powercat_ras · 02-21-2022, 07:16 PM

I use 12" x 12" 3/4 plywood under the jack pads. I carry four 3/4" and four 1 1/2" ones (made by gluing 3/4" together). I have them wrapped in duct tape for weather proofing and to make them less likely to slip when stacking. I also have 2 boxes of the Camco 44505 blocks. Have 2 heavy duty solid rubber wheel chocks.

I use the 44505 blocks under the rear wheels when needed to make sure the rear wheels don't lose contact with the ground when parking on a very un-level site. I always want the rear wheels to have contact as they are what the parking brake holds. Wheel chocks one front wheel when parking on a un-level site.