Winnebago 2002 Journey will not charge house or engine batteries

[ttrv]

I have a 2002 winnebago journey DL with a Freedom 15 inverter. Nothing will put a charge on the batteries. Generator, engine running or shore power. This is for both the house and engine batteries.

All batteries have tested as good.

your help on this matter is greatly appreciated.
TomT

[homeless]

Originally Posted by ttrv

I have a 2002 winnebago journey DL with a Freedom 15 inverter. Nothing will put a charge on the batteries. Generator, engine running or shore power. This is for both the house and engine batteries.

All batteries have tested as good.

your help on this matter is greatly appreciated.
TomT

I think someone will tell you about a " Solenoid ? " mounted behind the batteries.

[Jim_HiTek]

House batts or chassis?

How did you measure the voltage? With a meter right at the batts, or reading the monitor panel inside the RV?

[ttrv]

At the panel inside and also at the battery banks with a volt meter. Measured the same.

I do have a Trombetta 18226 located in the front of the RV. Picture uploaded. Been reading this might have something to do with it????????

Thanks in advance.

[FIRE UP]

TTRV,
Your heading of your original post states that, NOTHING charges either set of batteries from any source, correct? Well, just for information, you have two, separate charging systems for the two sets of batteries. And, about 99.999% of the Winnebagos do not have any fancy circuit board system that handles charging of any set, from shore power. In most of the Winnes with diesel engines, there's an Inverter/Charger on board. I say Most but, maybe not all.

If, yours is one (which I'm almost dead sure it is) that has an Inverter/charger on board, your inverter takes care of supplying the coach with 120VAC power when asked for by turning on the inverter. But, the "charger" side of that Inverter/Charger, handles charging of the house batteries only UNLESS, the coach has been outfitted with and aftermarket charging device, such as the Trik-L-Start component you show in your pictures. Now, the primary reason to add a Trik-L-Start is to supply charging voltage/amperage to the CHASSIS batteries, while on shore power. It is NOT A BATTERY CHARGER, it's sole duty is to recognize the voltage difference between the house batteries and chassis batteries and if it sees a .5V difference, it simply siphons off, part of the charging voltage/amperage destined for the house batteries, and sends it to the chassis batteries.

That's how that system works. But, in order for the Trik-L-Start to work properly, everything in front of it, that is the dual battery solenoid has to be functioning correctly. If the components that tie in the Trik-L-start are malfunctioning, then other parts and components down stream, will not work correctly. There's more to that system than what I've explained so far but, that's the basics.

AS for charging from your engine, you have an alternator that provides all the charging necessary for both sets. But, there's also components that link all of them together so that both sets receive the actual charge from the alternator. Through normal alternator wiring, your chassis batteries will automatically charge when the engine is running, unless something is broke or malfunctioning.

And, the way that the alternator charges the house batteries is through the Auxiliary Boost solenoid. That solenoid is closed with ignition hot, and, then the charge from the alternator is sent to the house batteries. So, that's the basics on that system. Based on your original statement and heading, you may have more than one issue. How long has this been going on?
Scott

[ttrv]

Scott,
First of all, thank-you for the detailed information you provided.

Heading is correct. My RV has been locked up this year at an NTM retirement community in Sanford, FL where we volunteer. I have been laid up. During the summer hurricane the guys moved it to a safer spot on the property. At that time the batteries were dead and not quite clear on how they charged them up. I know in starting they utilized the boost switch for the house batteries to help in the process and charged the batteries by some method, several times. When I arrived it had this condition. There is also the basic Freedom 15 remote. It states the battery condition as a red light. And a digital meter for house/chassis is also mounted here. Readings are the same whether with a volt meter on the batteries or from the coach meter with any source, generator, shore or alternator.

Since then, I have removed, charged and tested all batteries And I have a trickle charge on the house for now.

Not sure where to start from here and would greatly appreciate your advice.

The picture shows the
Trombetta 1826 12VCONT
ultra trik-L-start winnebago part #156431-01-000
Not in picture is Intellitec 01-00055-000 21901 BD relay , 5amp fuse is ok

Kind Regards,
TTRV

[bsamole]

Tom it looks like you got a great response from Scott.
On my 2000 Horizon the inverter/charger is located on the drivers side on a shelf in the compartment that houses the power cord and the batteries are on the passenger side near the water heater. About a two foot positive cable from the batteries goes to a large three inch spade type fuse (probably 50 amp) located on the wall towards the front of the coach. The other side of that fuse goes directly to the inverter/charger. Perhaps they blew that fuse when they were trying to start your engine. There is also a smaller positive cable that goes to the front of the coach from the batteries that bypasses the spade type fuse.
I have replaced my inverter/charger twice. The first time with a Xantrex model that connected to the existing remote in the coach. The second time with a much less expensive Triplite RV1512. The Triplite remote APSRM4 bolt pattern matched the Freedom remote bolt pattern and used the same RJ45 cable. I hope you issue is not with the inverter/charger.
Please let us know the solution.

[ttrv]

Hi Bill,
And yes, Bill was very detailed and I hope with additional information I may here from him.

My configuration sounds very similar to your description. I included a picture to see if this is what the spade type fuse? One terminal ends runs to the house batteries, the other runs off somewhere else.

Thank-you for your response.
Tom TTRV

[ttrv]

Picture now included

[FIRE UP]

Originally Posted by ttrv

Picture now included

ttrv,
Unless that's a part number, when you examine that fuse really close, it shows the number "300" on it. I'm pre-supposing that's a 300 amp fuse ???
Scott

[bsamole]

Yes that is the fuse. Upon closer look mine has 200 amp stamped on one lug.

[ttrv]

Tested Alternator yesterday. It is Dead. Ordered a new one. Hopefully this will resolve one half of this issue.

[FIRE UP]

Originally Posted by ttrv

Tested Alternator yesterday. It is Dead. Ordered a new one. Hopefully this will resolve one half of this issue.

Hey ttrv,
Thanks for getting back here and informing us of your progress. So many times, we never learn what the OPs answer was to any given problem. Now, once your new alternator is in and the engine is running, make sure that ALL your battery connections, each and every one of them, is in TOP SHAPE.

And that includes ones that very often are overlooked. Those are the ground ones that lead from the negative on the batteries, (BOTH SETS OF BATTERIES) down to the frame. I don't know how yours are attached to the frame but, on ours, the negatives are attached to a tab, that was welded onto the inside of the frame, adjacent to the batteries.

When I first wiggled under there, I noticed some severe rust and corrosion on what appeared to be some sort of cables attached to that tab. Well, I wasn't looking for them at the time but, I had stumbled onto the negative battery cable frame connections. What a mess. I even broke the bolts that attached them to the frame 'cause they were so rusted. Well, I got it all apart, cleaned up the ends of all the negative cables, used a metal prep disc on my die-grinder to clean up the tab and, put it all back together with a bit of "Copper based Anti-seize" on the entire assembly and used Stainless Steel nuts and bolts.

It's now been about 4+ years since I did that and, every now and then I cruise under the coach for general inspections and make sure I take a look at those cable ends to see how my work has held up. It's doing just fine. So, it might behoove you to do the same, get under there and make sure those negative cable ends are clean, tight and secure. Good luck.
Scott

[ttrv]

Thanks. Scott. Will check grounding. Not sure where to start on the house testing for the charging. But have a few ideas. Happy Trails

[ttrv]

Installed new alternator fix chassis charging for chassis/house, 2 house batteries were dead, and 2 chassis batteries dead. However all four of these gave me a good life.

Freedom 15 1500W still not charging. Yanked it out today and put on bench. It will not send a charge to the batteries better than 12.59. Low hum.

So my question is, I really do not need an inverter/charger like the xantrex 458 1500W. Very much considering something similar to the Xantrex truechage2 60A or 70A. And also the Progressive Dynamics PD9270 - 70 Amp RV Converter/Charger,url
RV and Marine Power Converters and Chargers. Great review for products on amazon.

Really, I do not see much value in having the option to invert the DC to AC current.
The xantrex 458 $975, Truecharge2 60A $575. Progressive Dynamics 60A $237.

Looking for advice on this on xantrex vs Progressive Dynamics and opinion on having the invert DC to AC option feature? I really never used it, tested it. even when I have dry camped I only use the battery bank and generator to re-charge batteries.
Thank-you very much.

[twinboat]

Question, when you pulled it out did it have a battery temp sensor ?

If you tested it with it, try it without it plugged in.

[FIRE UP]

Originally Posted by ttrv

Installed new alternator fix chassis charging for chassis/house, 2 house batteries were dead, and 2 chassis batteries dead. However all four of these gave me a good life.

Freedom 15 1500W still not charging. Yanked it out today and put on bench. It will not send a charge to the batteries better than 12.59. Low hum.

So my question is, I really do not need an inverter/charger like the xantrex 458 1500W. Very much considering something similar to the Xantrex truechage2 60A or 70A. And also the Progressive Dynamics PD9270 - 70 Amp RV Converter/Charger,url
RV and Marine Power Converters and Chargers. Great review for products on amazon.

Really, I do not see much value in having the option to invert the DC to AC current.
The xantrex 458 $975, Truecharge2 60A $575. Progressive Dynamics 60A $237.

Looking for advice on this on xantrex vs Progressive Dynamics and opinion on having the invert DC to AC option feature? I really never used it, tested it. even when I have dry camped I only use the battery bank and generator to re-charge batteries.
Thank-you very much.

ttrv,
Well Sir, only you can determine if the INVERTING operation is of importance or not. We use inverting on a regular basis while dry camping. It serves many purposes for us. It's especially useful if and when we're dry camping and, we're in a situation where there are "quiet" generator hours. Early morning and late evening are the times when it comes in handy.
But, if you've not found the need for it, in all the time you've owned the coach, well, then your potential decision to eliminate it and go for a Converter/Charger may be warranted. I'd have to study your wiring in order to advise if you'll run into wiring issues by switching to what you may want. It may be easy and, then again, you may run into issues. I'm no expert.
Scott

P.S. On edit:
After I sent this message, I found this:

http://www.irv2.com/rvclassifieds/sh...ologies&cat=23

I had that same Inverter/Charger and it was as good one 'till it gave up the ghost. This member had his rebuilt, with new technology and logic circuits. It's a pretty good price for what you'd be getting. Just something to think about. And, you'd not have to change any wiring.
Scott

[Ramzfan]

ttrv...what FireUp is telling you is the truth. I had a 2000 inverter rebuilt by a pro and it was as good as a new one while I owned the coach. much cheaper than a new one.

[mdvs]

Unless I missed it, did anyone suggest checking the battery disconnect switch on the dash? On my Journey it disconnects the battery from everything, including the charge circuit.

[mdvs]

I should clarify, it disconnects the house batteries.