Advice on possible purchase

[md_rick_o]

My wife and i are looking at a 2004 Minnie Winnie 31C with 35k miles. We are having an RV inspection done by BOE marine and RV in Stevensville where the RV is on consignment. Anyone had any experience with them?

We walked through it yesterday and it seems to be in great shape, very clean, no water damage visible and has the walk around bed we really need. Now there were a few issues we found during the walkthrough so would want them fixed or the price adjusted to account for them. The generator won't start (Salesguy who is the GM of BOE said he thinks it is the starter?), tires are 6 years old, radio doesn't work and the batteries are shot so wouldn't push out the slide.

[BobC]

Other than the tires, and possibly the radio, I'd want things fixed rather than a price adjustment. The generator may need replacement and the slide issue can be a nightmare if it's something other than the batteries.

I'm confused about the slide/battery issue. As far as I know, it operates off the chassis battery and, if the rig is running, the slide should work. If not, there are other, potentially major issues. If the chassis battery won't start your engine, it could also be the source of the generator issue as well. And, if your engine won't start, how do you know there aren't other issues with this motorhome?

[md_rick_o]

Yeah the price adjustment is mostly so we can get them fixed ourselves but i see what you are saying. The guy said if the battery is dead dead, that still interferes with the slide opening even with the engine running. he had me switch push on the battery boost as he tried opening the slide out. I DON"T KNOW that is why i'm asking, so i really appreciate the help. We're thinking the RV inspection should show the problems i can't see or haven't specifically asked.

Should i not trust an inspection? He said he is NRVIA certified. I tried to search last night for NRVIA inspectors with the zip and he didn't show up.

[NYBobbo]

RV inspections like a house inspection should be completed with a written statement on the condition of the vehicle, also ask if he has inspection insurance...



If it were me, I'd have them repair everything including new tires of your choice. Adjustments may not cover actual costs.



I'd get someone to inspect the chassis. Remember this is a 14-15 year old vehicle, chances are there are many motor and suspension issues with something this age (shocks/springs, hoses etc.). The low mileage just means it's been sitting a long time. The propane tank should be re certified after 10 years (I think).



With that being said, the value of anything is what you are willing to pay for it. Good luck with your decision.

[BobC]

Is this the first MH you've looked at that piqued your interest? If so, keep looking. I there are enough unknowns here to make me nervous. I think the salesman is giving you the runaround on the battery issue. If the battery starts the engine, there's no reason, that I know of, for the slides not to work while the engine is running. The same goes for starting the generator. If it's as the salesman said, all they have to do is put in a good battery and show you that all is OK. An honest salesman would have done this without being asked.

As NYBobo indicated, low mileage isn't necessarily a good sign.

Also, in my experience, consignment lots can be over-priced by 20% or more so be careful and don't trust the salesperson. There are a lot of used MHs for sale so passing up this one isn't going to be a mistake. My preference is to buy directly from a proud owner who's knowledgeable and willing to point out and discuss everything about the rig. There's really no advantage in buying a used MH from a dealer, consignment or otherwise.

And don't take anyone's word on tire age when evaluating a MH. Read the DOT code yourself. The first two digits represent the week of manufacture and the last two the year. 2313 would mean the tire was made in the 23rd week of 2013, etc. I was told my tires were about four years old and they looked good, no cracks and good tread. I took the seller's word for it and the tires turned out to be almost 12 years old! You can figure $1,500 - $2,000 for six tires if you stick with Uniroyal or similar brands and much more for Michelins, which IMHO aren't necessary.

[Podivin]

Personally, I have a problem with the place that's selling it also being the place that does the inspection. Perhaps I'm just old and jaded, but *I* would have an inspection done by a disinterested third party, not by someone who has a definite interest in getting the RV sold.

[BobC]

I agree, in fact, I wouldn't even pay for an inspection until the consignment lot can demonstrate that the generator and the slides work.

Both are potentially high ticket reasons for rejection and I don't think an anyone, licensed inspector or not, could give an estimate that I could trust to be accurate. From what I've read, generators need to be exercised and one that's been unused for years can have all sorts of problems.

If they switch the battery out and both work, it's a different story.

I'd also check for hydraulic leaks under the slide and at both ends of all hydraulic hoses. If there are, it's going to be $500 - $800 or more to have all the hoses (leaking or not) replaced. If it's an HWH slide, there was a problem with leaks in the early 2000s. My 2002 was affected, but I'm not sure about 2004. Look for signs of hydraulic fluid on the ground, on the frame, on the cylinders and especially where the hose fittings are swaged onto the hoses.

[md_rick_o]

I appreciate the info. A few notes in response to statements above.

The vehicle started right up, no problems.

Kevin (GM/Salesman) suggested getting them to reseal the roof as soon as we got to the motorhome.

We got the tire age from the DOT code.

Would a salesman put a new battery in a consignment motorhome?

The price is a bit less than NADA low retail, is that a good benchmark to use?

[BobC]

A good salesman who wanted to sell the rig would make sure it had a good battery, and would have the seller pay for it.

Low NADA might be a good starting point but I would expect all major components to be in decent working order. I would expect some cosmetic issues, but not slide and generator issues. As I mentioned before, these can be extremely expensive and negotiating price based on estimates is dangerous. Also, just starting up isn't good enough, you need to know that the entire drive train and suspension is OK.

With regard to re-sealing the roof, you'll want to re-caulk all roof fittings (vents, skylights, etc.) and the edges of the roof with Winnebago specified sealants (not Dicor, which is for rubber roofs, not fiberglass roofs like the Minnie). Winnebago's site will list these and there is plenty of info on this forum about doing it:

http://www.winnebagoind.com/diagram/...00_sealant.pdf

Any signs of water damage including dark stains on the ceiling or floors and bulges in the fiberglass siding is problematical and can be a cause for rejection.

My personal experience is that I have had to put $5,000+ and a lot of DIY into my 2002 and I'm still not done. Had it not been equipped with a four year old $15k wheelchair lift that we needed, I probably wouldn't have purchased it. I figure I got an MH and a lift for the price of the MH.

[md_rick_o]

We stopped the dealer from doing the inspection. We found an inspector through the NRVIA search tool.

Someone else said laying down could be a legal issue. We had no clue that her laying down while i was drive would be a problem, that is the main purpose we are looking at RV's. So she could get out of her seat and move and lay down if needed.

[BobC]

Legally, in Maryland, it's OK for her to not be strapped in but in other nearby states it's not:

https://rvshare.com/blog/things-need...eat-belt-laws/

I looked at the online floor plan and she could lie on the sofa and be belted.

In any event, being belted in is the safest.

[md_rick_o]

Originally Posted by BobC

Legally, in Maryland, it's OK for her to not be strapped in but in other nearby states it's not:

https://rvshare.com/blog/things-need...eat-belt-laws/

I looked at the online floor plan and she could lie on the sofa and be belted.

In any event, being belted in is the safest.

Yeah that was the page i was looking at. SC is one of our destinations (family) that we would hit regularly.

[OLYLEN]

First the Gen, should start off house batteries, slide should work off house batteries. Slide needs emergency brake set to work. Tires need replaced soon, either money off and you replace or they replace, either way make sure the tire warranty is in you name. Ask me why I know. I have a very simular RV. Overall I would purchase mine again. I would install a Scanguage.

[kg6vvo]

I would rent a Class C if I had to do things over again. I started in a Fleetwood Tioga Ranger with 1 slide. I had to try to leavel it one time and ended up digging two holes trying, with a large metal spoon. Then the corner bed was a bitch to get made. After the leavling fiasco I traded for a fleetwood Bounder 35 k auto levlers walk around bed, residential refrigerator. Rent a C first before you buy.

[lgehring]

Originally Posted by md_rick_o

Yeah that was the page i was looking at. SC is one of our destinations (family) that we would hit regularly.

I'm not sure how comfortable she would be lying down while driving down the highway. You hit a rough patch of road and she could go flying. Some people have better shocks, but your proposed rig is only two years younger than ours, so if your goal is peaceful rest at 60 mph, check your shocks. Even good shocks can only do so much.

[darcia]

hi, I can tell you we have had our 2004 29 ft Minnie for 9 years have put 70,000 on it been a great rv. It sounds like this one was not taken care of. good luck