House Batteries 18V24D

[Kayak73]

First test run under way. Rig is unplugged from shore. Refrigerator on setting 4. Ran TV 30 minutes with inverter. Everything then off and unplugged except refrigerator. LP switch off. Can't do the solar test yet, one panel missing for repair but I will do a 3 hour generator run in the morning after shutting the fridge off to let batteries stabilize to measure voltage with DVM. After this test I will leave inverter on all night with a small load at 1.5 amps AC to make sure the refrigerator and CPAP will run all night along with the inverter draw. This should help me size the solar panels for roof. I'm thinking two rigid 160 watt panels and keep the Zamp which is out for repair/replacement as a portable if needed. If I can find my tester will measure specific gravity in cells to verify SOC. I already knew this from prior trips but that compressor refrigerator is noisy when running and things are quiet.

[Kayak73]

OK, after the first test run there is no need for further testing. These monster Trojan T-1275s will do what I need to do. Good to go. Last night, all night run on battery only and I was at 12.6 at 9:00 AM. Did not start generator, one solar panel and it ran all day, still at 12.6. OK, I will plug it in and and charge from shore - oh my, only charging at float. Guess I will have to watch more TV! Finally my Zamp monitor panel is working properly. I don't think those little OEM batteries ever really delivered enough to make the Zamp know they were "there".

[LarryW]

Is a solar system next on your agenda? 300 to 400 watts and your generator can be relegated to a backseat.

[Kayak73]

Indeed! As you know the rig came with two Zamp 100 watt panels, one of those failed early in life, 4 months or so. I'm looking at adding two rigid 160 watt panels and keeping the Zamp panel for portable use if I ever get it back repaired or replaced. In any case the two 160 watt panels plus the one working Zamp will give me 420 watts on the roof, the max according to Zamp. Of course I could change the controller but I'll keep it a while to see how it does over time. One step at a time we are beating the 24D into a usable boondock rig. Almost there. Like your signature tag, we want to be back at COE, NF, TVA, BLM - the nice small real campgrounds in vastly under-crowded places. Lately TVA (my old employer) has changed their camps a lot regarding management and lease out, COE camps are full a lot, even some NF sites are reservations to get a spot. I hate reservations if you can tell. IMHO almost the end of RV freedom. Yeah, lot of the COE dry camps were closed. It all depends on what you like in camping, some folks like drinks and treats served while parked in the shade on concrete pads with nice patio etc. That's OK, we dumped the DP to try and get back to the "early days" of our RV experience in what I refer to as campgrounds and not resorts with waiters delivering mixed drinks We still frequent military famcamps a lot though but mostly those are not resort types, some are very nice, some limited but you meet really nice people at the military famcamps normally. We see Prevost to minnie TTs and class C, all kinds at those camps.

[Hammerhead]

Kyak73,
Sounds like the change to the Trojan T-1275s worked for you. As you know, I am facing the same problem boondocking in my 2018 View 24J with the Norcold compressor refrigerator draining the batteries.
Do you have any pictures of the modifications you made on your rig?
Thanks

[Kayak73]

I didn't post photos, TUCSONTOY already posted his mod. I did essentially the same thing, covered in another post. Check his public profile for album

[Markap6]

Originally Posted by Hammerhead

Kyak73,
Sounds like the change to the Trojan T-1275s worked for you. As you know, I am facing the same problem boondocking in my 2018 View 24J with the Norcold compressor refrigerator draining the batteries.
Do you have any pictures of the modifications you made on your rig?
Thanks

Before changing out the batteries, be sure to have the in-line glass fuse at the top of the unit either taken out completely (connect the two wires together, no fuse) or replace the glass fuse with an automotive type fuse.

The in-line glass fuse overheats and causes the compressor to cycle excessively resulting in rapidly drained batteries.

While I replaced the G24's with GC2's anyway, I did a test before replacing them and had no problem with the fridge lasting the entire night with temps of 13 and 38 The next several days were very cloudy and rainy so I decided to go ahead with the battery swap (2x 230ah GC2's from Batteries+ for ~$119 each)