Sprinter chassis battery

bkg · 11-03-2018, 07:18 AM

I searched the forum first - no result for Sprinters. Does anyone know if the house battery charger also charges the chassis battery? My 24V came with a factory installed PD converter charger which does a great job on taking care of batteries, I just can't tell if it also takes care of the chassis battery.

My former Forest River unit did utilizing the "bird". When we took delivery, the MBS chassis battery was dead - grant it, it wasn't plugged in to shore power for a while. But if the system was designed to condition the chassis battery along with the house battery, I would assume that the solar system would have kept the chassis battery topped off.
The dealer renewed the MBS battery prior to our taking delivery but I am still concerned about keeping the chassis battery healthy when the coach is parked, not being used.

NYBobbo · 11-03-2018, 10:27 AM

No, you can use a battery tender in the always "hot" port under the pull out tray on the dash. Others have done a hard wire install. Try searching for battery tender that might work.

luvlabs · 11-03-2018, 11:42 AM

When the coach is parked, you should pull the chassis battery ground if you are parked for more than a few days. It's easy to do, just look for a red knob just above the accelerator pedal. Unplug that, and your chassis battery will last.

If you have solar or you leave your coach plugged in, the easiest way to keep the chassis battery happy is to add a Trik-L-Charge. This connects to charge relay and when the house batteries are charged, will send a trickle charge current to the chassis battery. Pretty easy to install and works without any intervention on your part.

Mike Owens · 11-03-2018, 11:43 AM

I installed a trik-l-start as my solution. It's fed from the house so when outside my solar keeps up the house that keeps the chassis ready to go. When I park inside our building I can use a battery maintainer on the house only if needed. Then the trik-l-start does the rest.

bkg · 11-03-2018, 09:03 PM

Thanks everyone.

It's a shame that Winnebago doesn't incorporate the "bird" (battery-isolation-relay-delay or BIM - battery-isolation-manager) made by Precision Circuits.
It uses a microprocessor to monitor both chassis and house batteries. Eliminates the need to disconnect the chassis battery or add another charger to condition the chassis battery.

I'm a true believer in the BatteryMINDER ODB 12
. I had this on my previous coach and it made a world of difference in the life of my batteries. The BatteryMINDER works with up to 8 batteries so all I needed was just the one and with the bird, all batteries; coach and chassis were being maintained.

Oddly enough, Winnebago WIT Club wrote an article covering all RV battery management devices: https://winnebagoind.com/resources/s...Management.pdf

Texasview · 11-04-2018, 08:33 AM

I have recently purchased a 2018 View 24V. I have been told that a NOCO G3500 charger connected to 110 and then plugged into the 12V plug under the pull out tray will keep the chassis battery charged. Has anyone used this method?

bkg · 11-04-2018, 09:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Texasview

I have recently purchased a 2018 View 24V. I have been told that a NOCO G3500 charger connected to 110 and then plugged into the 12V plug under the pull out tray will keep the chassis battery charged. Has anyone used this method?

Texasview, yes, you could use the NOCO, but my reasoning is why add another charger when an equipped coach with a BIM can use the Progressive Dynamics converter with charge wizard and accomplish the same thing.
Also, coach equipped with solar system can also maintain the chassis battery with a BIM system.

The View Sprinter is already equipped with the connecting solenoid (the battery jump switch on the dash that can be used to aide the chassis battery for a jump-start). All that is needed is the battery intelligence monitor to utilize the solenoid better.

BTW, I use the 120 volt version of the BatteryMINDER to accomplish the same as the NOCO. I have had the battery for my lawn tractor last well over 36 months thanks to the conditioning ability of the BatteryMINDER - I usually got about 1 year on that battery prior to BatteryMINDER; they would die out due to sulfation. I've actually recovered sulfated batteries with the BatteryMINDER.
It would seem like I may have a vested interest in BatteryMINDER - I don't except for the money invested to buy my BatteryMINDERS; it's just when something really works as advertised - I tell people.

Old Crows · 11-04-2018, 05:21 PM

Well, it's a bit more complicated than plugging in a 'battery maintainer' into the ACC plug in the center dash...... Yes, you can do that BUT..... only if you are on shore power & BM is plugged into 110V shore power outlet OR you are plugged into shore and plugged into an 'inverter' outlet and the inverter is ON.

The point here is that you need 110 V AC power (shore or generator) or solar power to continually charge the house batteries while the BM is working to maintain the chassis battery. Other wise, you will end up with dead house batteries in a short time.

Alternatively, if you have 110 V AC available (15Amp) from shore, you can run a drop line and plug the BM into it to charge through the ACC port.

WARNING: You want to unplug all that stuff before you put the key in the ignition!!!! and definitely before starting the beast.

FWIW.... the chassis battery is a sealed AGM from the factory. If everything is OFF, it will maintain a charge for quite some time without recharging it. At least 6 weeks or maybe a bit more. If you use the battery disconnect by the gas pedal, it will probably keep a charge for several months. BUT DO read the procedure of how to connect and disconnect it.

bkg · 11-04-2018, 07:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Old Crows

Well, it's a bit more complicated than plugging in a 'battery maintainer' into the ACC plug in the center dash...... Yes, you can do that BUT..... only if you are on shore power & BM is plugged into 110V shore power outlet OR you are plugged into shore and plugged into an 'inverter' outlet and the inverter is ON.

The point here is that you need 110 V AC power (shore or generator) or solar power to continually charge the house batteries while the BM is working to maintain the chassis battery. Other wise, you will end up with dead house batteries in a short time.

Alternatively, if you have 110 V AC available (15Amp) from shore, you can run a drop line and plug the BM into it to charge through the ACC port.

Thank you.

Yea, my bad.

I should have mentioned in the very first post that in my former Class C, I did keep it powered on 120 while it was not in use. A luxury I have storing my RV at home.
Something that I am also doing with the new View which is what started the inquiry; keeping coach and chassis battery "maintained".
My former coach did not have solar or the Zamp pre-wire. This feature may have changed why some RV's don't come with BIM.

My chassis battery being dead on the day of delivery was an eye opener, especially the size and cost of that huge battery (the dealer purchased the renewed battery).

Texasview · 11-05-2018, 07:03 AM

I do keep the view plugged into shore power when parked. I was told that I would still need the NOCO unit. I will have to look up the BatteryMinder. Thank you for the information.

Madoglucky · 11-11-2018, 07:05 PM

My 2011 View has a booster switch on the dash that borrows coach battery power if your chassis battery is low.

Winterbagoal · 11-11-2018, 07:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Texasview

I have recently purchased a 2018 View 24V. I have been told that a NOCO G3500 charger connected to 110 and then plugged into the 12V plug under the pull out tray will keep the chassis battery charged. Has anyone used this method?

I have the same rig. I plug a Stanley Fat Max 8A charger/maintainer into the AC outlet on the outside of the forward side of the bathroom wall next to the sofa, and plug the cigar lighter connector into the always hot 12V outlet under the pull out dash tray that NYBobbo mentioned. Solar or shore charges the coach batteries, which powers the inverter (must be "on" for this to work automatically), which feeds that outside bathroom AC outlet, which powers the Stanley 8A smart charger, which plugs into the 12V DC always hot outlet, which charges/maintains the chassis battery. Works like a charm.

Stanley 8A Fat Max
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Stanley-F...arger/38243757

JoeC · 11-11-2018, 08:31 PM

Use an "Amp-L-Start" (newer higher amp version of the Trick-L-Start") instead. Permanently installed using only three wires and charges the chassis battery while on shore or generator power automatically and does not drain the coach battery. Install it and forget about it.

Winterbagoal · 11-11-2018, 08:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JoeC

Use an "Amp-L-Start" (newer higher amp version of the Trick-L-Start") instead. Permanently installed using only three wires and charges the chassis battery while on shore or generator power automatically and does not drain the coach battery. Install it and forget about it.

You're not always plugged in or able to run your generator. Your coach batteries plus 2X100W panels will add the extra option for charging when the other 2 aren't available, with my method. Takes under 1 minute to set up on our 24V, and it's portable and flexible to use to charge any battery you want. Not permanently installed like triklstart or amplstart. How do you stop them from drawing down your coach batteries when you're not on an external charging source? Is there a "stop charging the chassis battery" switch on them?

rv kayakers · 11-11-2018, 10:59 PM

Good to hear your actual experience with Battery Minder. I have one based on their claims, but hadn’t seen confirmation. When stored and on shore power I use a battery Minder plugged into inside 120v and the lower 12v outlet to keep chassis charged. I have also seen reference to the vampire draw on chassis battery from a slide interlock connected to chassis battery thru handbrake. Some folks release handbrake when booddocking to avoid that draw.

Pathfinder · 11-12-2018, 07:58 AM

Was looking for suggestions on keeping chassis battery charged while stored at remote location (no shore power) over the winter. Some great suggestions in this thread, but for some reason having difficulty distilling it down to exactly what I would need to do. So, here's what I'm working with: 2016 View 24J, three 100w solar panels, no shore power, not very mechanically inclined.

What is the most effective/efficient way for me to maintain charge on the house battery during storage (I've already disconnected the cable under the accelerator pedal, following proper shut down procedures.

It's probably been answered in the thread already, so figure you're explaining it to a third grader. Thanks in advance.

luvlabs · 11-12-2018, 08:52 AM

Here's what you do:

You are already equipped to deal with the house battery side. Your solar system will keep your house batteries charged. To keep your parasitic draws down, turn off the main battery switch (solar will still charge the house batteries). You can keep your chassis battery plugged in if you install a Trik-L-Start or Amp-L-Start on the charge relay = or do as you are doing and disconnect the battery.

JoeC · 11-12-2018, 09:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Winterbagoal

You're not always plugged in or able to run your generator. Your coach batteries plus 2X100W panels will add the extra option for charging when the other 2 aren't available, with my method. Takes under 1 minute to set up on our 24V, and it's portable and flexible to use to charge any battery you want. Not permanently installed like triklstart or amplstart. How do you stop them from drawing down your coach batteries when you're not on an external charging source? Is there a "stop charging the chassis battery" switch on them?

You can have solar panels too if you choose. The Amp-L-Start is all solid state with built-in intelligence to not drain the coach battery and only charges the chassis battery when there is excess power (>12.8 or 6.4 volts) when some form of charger is applied to the coach battery. However after reading the specs again, it unfortunately is not available for 24 VDC systems, just 12 and 6 VDC systems.

When dry camping, you will be draining your coach battery at a far greater rate than the chassis battery and will require a generator run or shore power plug-in long before the chassis battery runs down. Chassis batteries get run down during long periods of not running the engine, normally the only source of charge power. Amp-L-Start fixes this problem although currently only for 12 and 6 VDC systems. So until another product is produced for 24 VDC systems, solar may be the only option, provided it too is somehow connected to both the chassis and coach batteries.

Shedboy · 11-12-2018, 10:23 AM

Slightly Different approach-
Buy Harbor Freight Item # 62813, Battery Maintainer, less than $20.00, permanently mount and connect to chassis bat under the drivers seat in the pedestal. Large hole in chassis floor allows an extension cord to be routed from the external TV compartment receptacle to the battery maintainer. Power is on when shore power or generator is on.
Similiary, 25W solar panel item #63940 comes with a 12V connector than plugs directly into the center dash connector, fits on the top of dash board and keeps a charged battery charged all winter. Stores in compartment when not in use.

jcurtisis · 11-12-2018, 10:57 AM

I bought a 5V Mercedes Benz trickle charger (part number A0009822921 for about $95 (from Amazon). It was slightly more expensive through the dealer). Pictures provided below show the part and how I have it placed in the engine compartment. I only use it when the RV will be parked and idle for n extended period of time. FYI, I have started the engine while it was hooked up and there was no problem. There is room in the engine compartment to drop the power cord to the ground where I hook it into an extension cord. At home I plug it into an outside power outlet. On the road when camped for more than one or two nights and we have shoe power hooked up I plug the cord into the convenient outlet on the inverter (in the outside storage bin behind the side door to the “house”. The convenient hole in the bottom of that compartment allows access for the cord- so it is all nicely self-contained. In storage I turn the house RV battery off and let the solar panels keep the two deep cycle batteries charged. From experience- Keeping the RV hooked up to shore power for long periods while unused is NOT RECOMMENDED as the batteries get over charged (we did this and ours started leaking battery fluid - RV repair guy said there was nothing wrong with the batteries so it must have been overcharged). Last picture shows the voltage level on the batteries with the trickle charger and solar panels...all nicely above the 12.2 V minimum recommend level.