Black dump valve stuck open 2016 Micro Minnie

Fletchim1 · 06-25-2024, 08:20 PM

2016 micro minni black water dump lever stuck in the open position, not sure how to fix, any help would be appreciated. Will I have to cut out the board underneath to expose the lever all the way back to the tank? can I access the tank valve by removing the toilet? thank you!

**creativepart** · 06-26-2024, 02:53 PM

Hi, I see no one else has responded to this question.

We've had more than our fair share of folks with this type of problem. Some have a gate valve stuck open and some have one stuck closed. Both problems are really bad problems to have.

The "handle" moves a cable called a Bowden Cable that snakes under the TTs underbelly to - hopefully - push and pull on the very simple gate valve. Problem is, all manner of things can make this go bad. Generally, there is something loose at the valve end or along the cable and when you move the handle the cable just moves and not the valve.

There are real fixes or there are temporary or jerry-rigged fixes.

The official fix is to cut into the coroplast on the bottom of the TT to gain access to the valve and cable. Careful cutting to make a workable section that you can leave partially attached ti the entire bottom covering yet gain access to the problem area. This will allow you to tape that section back into place with something such as Gorilla brand tape.

Once you gain access you should be able to determine the problem and come up with a suitable fix.

For a jerry-rigged fix, since your valve is stuck open you can follow the black dump piping to where it gets near to the main dump valve and using PVC plumbing parts and glues cut the 3" pipe and add a new gate valve near the dump valve. With this in place you can use the new gate valve handle to dump your black tank.

I had a different brand of TT a decade ago with the same bowden cable setup. I hired a tech to fix it and he gave me two prices one to remove part of the bottom covering and fixing the loose bowden cable OR another much cheaper price to add a new black water gate valve near the main dump piping. I chose the cheaper fix and I kept that TT for a number of years and that fix worked great.

While he was at it adding the new valve he cut the bowden cable off and removed the OEM dump handle to prevent confusion to any new owner.

I think there are a number of posts about this issue and some even have some photos of the process of gaining access to the area.

**creativepart** · 06-26-2024, 03:03 PM

Here's some links to other posts on this type of issue:

https://www.winnieowners.com/forums/...bh-368085.html

https://www.winnieowners.com/forums/...ml#post3950053

https://www.winnieowners.com/forums/...es-367730.html

https://www.winnieowners.com/forums/...ut-367786.html

Fred 2106DS · 06-26-2024, 03:51 PM

Fletchim1, here's another thread you may want to check out, I have a number of posts in this thread with pictures and a PDF that will give you a good idea of what you are dealing with once you open the coroplast underbelly. Also, there's a post showing how I sealed the underbelly back up.

Let me know if you have questions.

Fred

https://www.winnieowners.com/forums/...ck-366651.html

NomadRider · 06-26-2024, 04:18 PM

I carry one of these with me just in case I have a stuck open valve

eatSleepWoof · 06-26-2024, 10:07 PM

Timely thread.

As it happens I opened up the coroplast under the tanks & valve a few weeks earlier to have a look at how it's all setup should I ever have an issue. Well, the issue came much sooner than I anticipated, and after the last trip I now have a valve that's stuck open. This is on my 2022 2108FBS (bought new in January of this year, only used for ~4 trips).

Here is a photo I took while I was there. Photo taken from passenger side.

On my trailer the gate valves face the passenger side, and are physically on the passenger side of the trailer, while the actual pull/push handles are on the driver's side of the trailer. The cable goes from the handles, all the way across the trailer, and then does a 180-degree turn before connecting to the gate valves. Utterly moronic design; whoever came up with this needs to be punched in the face.

The one unexpectedly nice thing I did find under there is heating elements under the grey and black water tanks; on most trailers that have tank heating, the heating is only in place for the fresh water tank, because you can pour antifreeze into the other two tanks (to prevent them from freezing). That was a nice find.

BVThunder · 06-30-2024, 06:46 PM

Good sound advice from fellow RVers. Just to add a bit of levity to your situation. Had this happen to me years ago, but mine failed stuck shut with "stuff" in the tank. Now, that complicates the situation. Good luck and happy dumping in the future

eatSleepWoof · 07-22-2024, 10:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by eatSleepWoof

Timely thread.

As it happens I opened up the coroplast under the tanks & valve a few weeks earlier to have a look at how it's all setup should I ever have an issue. Well, the issue came much sooner than I anticipated, and after the last trip I now have a valve that's stuck open. This is on my 2022 2108FBS (bought new in January of this year, only used for ~4 trips).

Here is a photo I took while I was there. Photo taken from passenger side.

On my trailer the gate valves face the passenger side, and are physically on the passenger side of the trailer, while the actual pull/push handles are on the driver's side of the trailer. The cable goes from the handles, all the way across the trailer, and then does a 180-degree turn before connecting to the gate valves. Utterly moronic design; whoever came up with this needs to be punched in the face.

The one unexpectedly nice thing I did find under there is heating elements under the grey and black water tanks; on most trailers that have tank heating, the heating is only in place for the fresh water tank, because you can pour antifreeze into the other two tanks (to prevent them from freezing). That was a nice find.

Fixed my problem today. Details shared in this thread on ExPo.

Basically replaced the original bowden cable with a hard rod opening to the passenger's side of the trailer.

Fred 2106DS · 07-23-2024, 05:44 AM

Nice Job!

Thanks for the detailed post. I printed a copy. My valves don't move as easy as they once did. I will probably need to do something similar in the future.

Fred

eatSleepWoof · 07-23-2024, 09:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fred 2106DS

Nice Job!

Thanks for the detailed post. I printed a copy. My valves don't move as easy as they once did. I will probably need to do something similar in the future.

Fred

You can try some maintenance on the bowden hoses before they become a permanent problem. On my hose the "stuckiness" was very clearly in the first ~15 inches of the hose, on the side of the handle. The rest of the hose (and the valve) seemed to move quite well.

You could remove the hose from the trailer's frame, pull it out/down as much as you can, figure out a way to hold the end vertically (such as in a portable vice), and try to get penetrating fluid and then lubricant into it. I've seen folks use putty to make a "funnel" right at the tip (around the cable) and fill the funnel with WD40, letting it sit like that and hopefully get inside the cable.

Might be a good idea to do this as a sort of maintenance item.

No1Hunter · 08-01-2024, 05:48 PM

A while back, my black tank valve stuck open while I was dumping. I noticed there was some corrosion on the handle shaft where it goes inside the frame assembly. I managed to get it shut. So, when I got home, I bought some of this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HRXOGVW...t_details&th=1 , sprayed the shaft and pushed it in and pulled it out several times, spraying it each time. After a bit, it started sliding in and out pretty good. So, I did the other two handles for my gray tanks and now do them all every time I dump. So far, so good!