Deposit on Winnebago 2301BH (New Owner Ideas?)

Sentry · 12-25-2021, 01:28 AM

Well we finally pulled the trigger on the Winnebago Minnie 2301BH.... Sticker say, 11/21 its supposed to be a 2022...

Looks pretty good... It was a choice between a 11/21 and the 07/21. Latest was the way to go... (Less movement through it, less weather on it.) Not thrilled about it, but they took 12k off a price they probably raised it that far above MSRP to do that......

Started at 59K....

None the less, its what the kids would have been happier in, and the wife I'm sure.... The 2306 just would have been a pain in the long run...

Safe Weigh Hitch is ordered... Hopefully that gets here before the 7th of Jan, so I can bring it home on the 8th... Provided there are not major issues....

We need to start playing with it, before our trip in March....

Ideas on things required for a new RV owner?

Sewer Hose is a given.... Have read, a 20' sewer hose, and extra 10 ft is the way to go?
Sewer Hose Stabilizer?

Fresh water hose?
In Line Filter?
Flush Hose?

be happy · 12-25-2021, 04:35 AM

All of the things you listed are helpful and most are needed. Here is a list of maybe some off the wall items you have not thought about.

Water pressure regulator-very important keeps plumbing from exploding under pressure

Blue in line water filter is a place to start

Some lego or 2x 10 to act as levelers for the tires

You will need some type of wheel chocks. my choice is between the wheels, it help with the front to back movement

A impact diver to raise and lower the stabilizing jacks, makes life way easier

The list will go on as more folks help out.

Good Luck safe travels and the main thing use your new rig!

backtrack15 · 12-25-2021, 08:23 AM

Congratulations! I hope you make some great memories with the new TT.

Wakullabob · 12-25-2021, 08:42 AM

You might need to think of the kind of camping you will be doing . Some of the suggestions that you get will be for the kind of camping that " they " do . I would have no need for a sewer hose stabilizer as we never stay for weeks at a time in one spot , I am a traveler rather than a camper ! Chocks for under the wheels would be necessary , the X-chocks will stop movement if that is important to you .Dog bone electric cord is a must have for all who visit different campgrounds . But that said , myself I would not buy " nuttin " until I needed the item . Many are hauling for years items that they were sure they would use everyday , but alas they never use them ! I have resisted for years the purchase of an impact wrench because my wife cranks the jacks down . Seriously , most campers are weight sensitive , do not haul junk around if ya do not need to , it will add up quick !

Marine359 · 12-25-2021, 10:01 AM

It’s really hard to recommend what your most important purchase needs will be because we don’t know what kind of camping you will be doing primarily. A boondocker requires much more gear than a rv resort camper. If you’re planning on spending most of your time at rv resorts with level concrete pads and full hookups, just go and enjoy yourself…you really don’t need anything, unless you have to fix something on the road. But if I had to make a list of stuff you absolutely need to travel safely, aside from the obvious, even if you’re camping in your driveway, try this:

A good first aid kit with suture supplies
A multimeter
Toolbox kit with sockets
Headlamp
Power pole protection/surge protector
Water pressure reducer, or adjustable model
12v tire inflator
Digital tire pressure gauge
Cheap Walkie-talkies for backing up (cell doesn’t always work)
Chocks and levelers, preferably ellipticals
Reflective cones/triangles
Emergency flasher beacon
Knowing how to change a flat on trailer; could be jack or ellipticals.
A separate hose marked only for black tank rinse
Non-latex gloves
Battery jumper brick
Box of assorted fuses

If you plan to camp in national parks or state parks with limited facilities, the list doubles in items and cost. If you p,an to boondock for more than a night, the list triples i. Items and cost.

Have fun and enjoy some camping g before buying stuff you may not need.

**creativepart** · 12-25-2021, 11:31 AM

On top of all of that other stuff... be careful at closing. The dealer will try to sell you a million things you don't need or want and especially a Extended Waranty/Service Contract. They may try to scare you or even force you to buy from them and put it in your loan. Don't let them. And really, for a travel trailer an Extended Service Contract is really not needed very often. But that won't stop the dealer from trying.

Make them go through EVERY system and feature. Make them prove everything is working and don't sign any papers if stuff isn't working. Make them fix it first. After you've closed dealers will not go out of their way to fix things. Plan on a 2 to 3 hour PDI from the dealership. Test EVERYTHING. Let nothing slide for later.

Also, carefully review and add up all the items on your sales document and financing papers. Unfortunately, far too many dealers will try to slip in extra's or even $10,000 extra dollars here and there in the contract assuming you'll not read it.

Do get everything in writing. Especially if they "owe" you any item or any repairs. Before you close they will be your best friend. After you leave with your RV you're just another sucker that bought an RV from them sometime ago. Don't expect them to follow through on any statement made before you take possession unless it's in writing.

I'm very sorry to have to warn you about all these things - but every one of them is a real problem with buying an RV these days. Be prepared to walk away from the deal if they are trying to sneak something by you or it doesn't add up. (Especially if you're buying from Camping World.)

I know I'm sounding like perhaps I've had a hard time with dealers in the past, but actually it's from all the people I've heard from on this forum and other RV forums and their first hand "tales of woe" around their purchase experience.

Most of all... use the travel trailer a lot. The more you use it the more you'll love it.

PS. Many experienced RVers will camp as nearby as possible for 2 or 3 days after taking possession to double check that everything works. That way you can get right back to the dealership and demand instant repairs. If you don't you might have to wait a month or more for them to even look at your RV's problems. New RVs are not like new cars - lots of things are delivered with problems or not working at all.

Jokaj · 12-25-2021, 01:13 PM

Have the dealer measure the tongue weight before you pick it up. Don't be surprised when they say they can't. Trailers are tongue heavy and can affect how and what you buy in the future. They also, at least mine, will fill your fresh water tank full when you pick up. .

Sentry · 12-25-2021, 02:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jokaj

Have the dealer measure the tongue weight before you pick it up. Don't be surprised when they say they can't. Trailers are tongue heavy and can affect how and what you buy in the future. They also, at least mine, will fill your fresh water tank full when you pick up. .

As far as tongue weight, it is listed on winnebago's site... It might be higher?

Sentry · 12-25-2021, 02:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wakullabob

You might need to think of the kind of camping you will be doing . Some of the suggestions that you get will be for the kind of camping that " they " do . I would have no need for a sewer hose stabilizer as we never stay for weeks at a time in one spot , I am a traveler rather than a camper ! Chocks for under the wheels would be necessary , the X-chocks will stop movement if that is important to you .Dog bone electric cord is a must have for all who visit different campgrounds . But that said , myself I would not buy " nuttin " until I needed the item . Many are hauling for years items that they were sure they would use everyday , but alas they never use them ! I have resisted for years the purchase of an impact wrench because my wife cranks the jacks down . Seriously , most campers are weight sensitive , do not haul junk around if ya do not need to , it will add up quick !

So far we are not certain what kind of camping we really can do... Need to see how long what it comes with lasts, and what it can do...
Currently it comes with one battery... 160 ah maybe, iirc. 1 solar panel 190 watt... Im trying to learn about solar and 12v systems.

We have on order 4 100ah battle born batteries. When they arrive, Ill connect at least two of them and see how that goes. Not much more power in the short term I suppose.
Ill still need to figure out how and where to connect the 4 of them.

I saw Black Series places there solar equipment under the dinette seats... May be a consideration since supposedly Life4po do not out gas.

I used to hike, and learned quickly about weight adding up... Screwed up one hike and carried out 110 lbs... Didn't really notice it until the forced early return and lack of sleep... I almost left my pack behind that trip...

Sentry · 12-25-2021, 02:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Marine359

It’s really hard to recommend what your most important purchase needs will be because we don’t know what kind of camping you will be doing primarily. A boondocker requires much more gear than a rv resort camper. If you’re planning on spending most of your time at rv resorts with level concrete pads and full hookups, just go and enjoy yourself…you really don’t need anything, unless you have to fix something on the road. But if I had to make a list of stuff you absolutely need to travel safely, aside from the obvious, even if you’re camping in your driveway, try this:

A good first aid kit with suture supplies
A multimeter
Toolbox kit with sockets
Headlamp
Power pole protection/surge protector
Water pressure reducer, or adjustable model
12v tire inflator
Digital tire pressure gauge
Cheap Walkie-talkies for backing up (cell doesn’t always work)
Chocks and levelers, preferably ellipticals
Reflective cones/triangles
Emergency flasher beacon
Knowing how to change a flat on trailer; could be jack or ellipticals.
A separate hose marked only for black tank rinse
Non-latex gloves
Battery jumper brick
Box of assorted fuses

If you plan to camp in national parks or state parks with limited facilities, the list doubles in items and cost. If you p,an to boondock for more than a night, the list triples i. Items and cost.

Have fun and enjoy some camping g before buying stuff you may not need.

Being that I am new to Rv'ing, I cannot say "aside from the obvious applies" Suggestions are welcome, we will consider them as we are researching everything as is...
I would like to boondock, and depending on how things go in practice before march and what upgrades were able to accomplish before that time. We are considering doing at least one overnight in "The Valley of the Gods"

I already have tons of camping gear in general... Kind of a really rainy day kit... So the needs are generally focused on what the Rv will actually need. To start.

Sentry · 12-25-2021, 03:04 PM

I did buy a weigh safe hitch... So I can pay attention to the tongue weight...

In my research prior to deciding on the 2301. I did find information that helped me calculate the wheel base for my truck in reference to the length of the trailer.
The weight of the trailer is within 2/3 rd's the trucks rated pull weight.

As I have stated in another post, I have towed smaller trailers... But I learned a lot in making sure my truck is capable of pulling this safely... Just as with hitches, one I have had it actually a class ii hitch I think, and has a class ii ball on it... Was not aware of a lot of things. So I can say I'm smarter now...

**creativepart** · 12-25-2021, 05:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sentry

Currently it comes with one battery... 160 ah maybe, iirc. 1 solar panel 190 watt... Im trying to learn about solar and 12v systems.

I would guess your TT comes with one Group 27 Flooded Lead Acid battery with approx 75-80ah rating. Nowhere near the 160ah you're thinking of.

The Battleborns are Group 31 and as you know 100 ah each. Two in Parallel makes 200ah and four would make 400ah. Two will probably serve you well. Four may be overkill unless you get an inverter and use it for lots of 110v appliances.

Because the battery is mounted on the A-Frame from the factory many of the RVs electrical components are installed between the middle and front of the coach. For this reason many mount their LFP batteries in the front compartment immediately behind the A-Frame. But moving to a more center location is certainly doable. One thing to consider is your OEM battery probably weighs over 50lbs and this is adding weight to your tongue. If you move batteries back to the dinette you'll be removing tongue weight and then you'll need to pay attention to any heavy items you place behind the axles as this will further reduce tongue weight and that can lead to towing issues.

Assuming your TT comes with a 12-volt compressor fridge - most do - adding more batteries right from the start will be a big help. The compressor fridge doesn't use a ton of power, but it can put a serious drain on your battery overnight when the sun isn't making power for you.

I did check the brochure and see your RV can be speced optionally with a RV fridge that runs on AC and Propane. If yours is fitted out that way you will have tons of power with 2-Battleborns batteries.
Enjoy!!

Jokaj · 12-26-2021, 12:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sentry

As far as tongue weight, it is listed on winnebago's site... It might be higher?

Yeah. Listed isn’t always true. I got the 2225rl listed at 560lb but adding all my stuff, propane and battery, it was 780lb at the scale.

Sentry · 12-26-2021, 06:01 AM

When you say all your stuff, you mean? Everything you went camping with?

@Jokaj

Marine359 · 12-26-2021, 09:41 AM

I’m Going to assume you have the 10cf Dometic 12v compressor fridge, as this fridge became standard equipment for WBGO towables in the 2021 model year. In 2021 absorption fridges were available as a no cost option, but not really, because by the time you could place a factory order, WBGO only offered the absorption as a plus-up option. As a matter of fact, when we were shopping dealers, nobody had an absorption in stock, so if you wanted it you had to order it. So, since we didn’t want to order and wait six months, we were basically stuck with the compressor.

Creativepart is spot on. For compressor fridge, You’ll need at least 100ah of LiFePo4, and preferably 200ah. If you mount them in the pass thru, it can be DIY. Mounting them further aft you’ll encounter wire routing issues, and you’ll have to remove the duroplast. The fridge will consume 35-60 ah/day. Plan on 50ah on average. So, even if you’ve got a good amount of solar, you’ll still need to carry a generator if you want to boondock for more than 3 days (unless you camp in Very sunny climates). Fortunately, with LFP, my battery charges very rapidly @80 amps. If you want to just stick with FLA, plan on running your generator every day.

If you have a 1/2 ton or mid-size tv, mounting two FLA on the tongue might not be doable due to tv payload limits. Even with LFP in the pass thru, my tongue weight is almost exactly 12% of TT GVWR with a full load (full fresh water, gear, and two 7gal reliant jugs under the dinette). That puts me within a cat hair of my tv rear GAWR.

For ideas on re-wiring for LFP and solar, visit the photo albums on my profile. I got a lot of help on this forum.

Sentry · 12-26-2021, 03:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Marine359

I’m Going to assume you have the 10cf Dometic 12v compressor fridge, as this fridge became standard equipment for WBGO towables in the 2021 model year. In 2021 absorption fridges were available as a no cost option, but not really, because by the time you could place a factory order, WBGO only offered the absorption as a plus-up option. As a matter of fact, when we were shopping dealers, nobody had an absorption in stock, so if you wanted it you had to order it. So, since we didn’t want to order and wait six months, we were basically stuck with the compressor.

Creative part is spot on. For compressor fridge, You’ll need at least 100ah of LiFePo4, and preferably 200ah. If you mount them in the pass thru, it can be DIY. Mounting them further aft you’ll encounter wire routing issues, and you’ll have to remove the duroplast. The fridge will consume 35-60 ah/day. Plan on 50ah on average. So, even if you’ve got a good amount of solar, you’ll still need to carry a generator if you want to boondock for more than 3 days (unless you camp in Very sunny climates). Fortunately, with LFP, my battery charges very rapidly @80 amps. If you want to just stick with FLA, plan on running your generator every day.

If you have a 1/2 ton or mid-size tv, mounting two FLA on the tongue might not be doable due to tv payload limits. Even with LFP in the pass thru, my tongue weight is almost exactly 12% of TT GVWR with a full load (full fresh water, gear, and two 7gal reliant jugs under the dinette). That puts me within a cat hair of my tv rear GAWR.

For ideas on re-wiring for LFP and solar, visit the photo albums on my profile. I got a lot of help on this forum.

Currently, the TT has a 8 CFt Fridge... Propane/ Elec

I have in hand, one Ryobi Gen 2300 Surge 1800 running Watts. We ordered another one to connect them in parallel. Cable is on its way. That should give us 3600 running watts.

While the TT is 50 amp service because of the 2nd A/C, I understand this to mean that we just cannot turn on the second A/c while on gennie. Without the second A/c they are 30 amp service.

My current understanding of installing the BB batteries, is if on shore power that would charge the batteries? So if I were to hook up the 4 BB batteries, they would charge yes?
However, if using that (4) Battery power on boon dock the current 1 solar panel would not charge all 4 in nearly one day. So I am expecting at best to hook up 2 for now. Until we are able to get at least two more solar panels (Ground usage). I think it has solar hook-up on the side.

We have a 2012 Chevy Silverado 2500HD 4X4 Z71 which has the Z82 (Trailer package) installed as well as the 4:10 Gear Ratio. So in theory.... I should be able to pull without WD due to all the other features that came with the truck. Braking controls, Stable track etc.

However, I'm starting to get dismayed a bit... As stated, I do have a hitch on the way from Weigh Safe, which should tell me the tongue weight.

But I'm starting to think, with

4 persons and a dog in vehicle, _647 lbs
2 gennie's __________________100 lbs

2 full 30 lbs propane tanks _____110 lbs
battery weight equaling about ____61 lbs
Stated Tongue weight of trailer __684 lbs

Now I am at ________________1602 lbs

Cargo Weight and Tongue weight combined is above what the tongue weight is rated for? Yes? Max allowed on my hitch is 1500 lbs... I can pull 20K

If I add weight Distribution to that 135 lbs for the one I'm considering.

Am I looking at this right? I am supposed to be signing a piece of paper in a couple days... I need to know If I am right nor not....

Marine359 · 12-26-2021, 04:28 PM

Since you have a 3/4 ton tv. You shouldn’t have a payload problem, but you know your payload and I don’t. Your trailer GVWR of 8800lbs yields a nominal tongue weight of 1,056 lbs wet (8,800 x 12%). I would personally never tow a trailer without a WDH with built-in sway control, but I suppose it can be done safely. You may have to toy around with how you load the bed vrs pas thru in order to stay below rear GAWR. I moved generator and spare propane tank from bed to pass thru, then weighed everything I put in the truck and it’s bed on a bathroom scale. The scale broke when I weighed myself.

Without batteries on the tongue, my tongue weight got lower and I have a more balanced tow. But I don’t think I’d feel safe without the wdh. You’ll not have a CGVWR issue no matter what. Advise you make a spreadsheet with your weights and measures for tv, tongue and trailer. If you put too much into the bed, you’ll know it on your first trip to the scales, and can adjust accordingly.

BTW: most gennie parallel hookups will give you 30amps. I’ve got two 2500 Champion propane gennies, but now, I only carry one because I installed an easy start on my 13.5 btu a/c. There are some YouTube’s out there with folks running two a/c with easy starts on 30 amps. Maybe you can do it, if your rv is wired such that you can run both at the same time without 50amps. And, with absorption fridge, sounds like you don’t need to upgrade to LiFePo4 at this time.

Good luck and safe travels!

backtrack15 · 12-26-2021, 04:37 PM

You have a few things to keep track of:

Truck:
1. Front axle load versus front GAWR. Not normally a problem.
2. Rear axle load versus rear GAWR. This can be a problem on some vehicles without a WDH.
3. Truck total (front + rear) versus GVWR. This is where most people get in trouble.
4. Truck receiver weight limit.
5. Limit of the weigh safe hitch you bought.

Trailer:
1. Total weight (tongue plus axle loads) versus GVWR.
2. Axle loads versus GAWR.

The easiest way to confirm all this is to use a CAT scale once you have the trailer (which is a bit late).

As a starting point, you might assume you load the trailer to GVWR. Then assume the tongue load is 12% of GVWR. Use this tongue load plus the weight you plan to carry in the truck (people, cargo, hitch, plus modifications like bed-liner and shell/topper) and see if it exceeds your truck's cargo carrying capacity. If really worried, you could weigh your truck with all this stuff in it at a CAT scale prior to signing the papers. It is possible to estimate the rear axle load for the truck (with trailer) using the CAT scale values for the loaded truck (without trailer).

EDIT: I agree with Marine359. You bought the big trailer, so I'd get a WDH for your truck. If you skip the WDH, I'd definitely get a frictional anti-sway bar (or two).

Marine359 · 12-26-2021, 05:09 PM

Sentry,
Just noticed you have two gray tanks. Adding up your total fluid capacity of gray+gray+black+fresh+wh =211 gal x 8.34 = 1,760 lbs. if you’re traveling with normal camping gear, you could come perilously close to exceeding you trailer GVWR if you travel with full fresh water, and your holding tanks are full. Just something to remind you to empty holding tanks before hitting the road.

Sentry · 12-26-2021, 05:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Marine359

Sentry,
Just noticed you have two gray tanks. Adding up your total fluid capacity of gray+gray+black+fresh+wh =211 gal x 8.34 = 1,760 lbs. if you’re traveling with normal camping gear, you could come perilously close to exceeding you trailer GVWR if you travel with full fresh water, and your holding tanks are full. Just something to remind you to empty holding tanks before hitting the road.

That would be if all are full correct... If we are emptying, it should be good to go...

I guess my main question with earlier equations, am I over thinking this? Or will weight come out different between truck and trailer than I am thinking?

I have not even begun to calculate fresh water into this... Not to mention water bottles for drinking... Food, dishes, clothes, sheets, blankets etc....