Micro-Minnie 2106ds Jacknife sofa to Dinette Conversion

[Blubugger]

Our 2018 2106ds came with the two sofa and Murphy bed configuration. We had a dinette in our previous Class C Winnebago and miss that terribly [no need for heavy fold down table, and with the sparse counter area in the 2106, welcome table area]. Has anyone converted the 2106ds Jacknife sofa to Dinette?
It does appear to be doable, with several suppliers of fully upholstered seats and tables available.
Any words of wisdom?
thanks,
blubugger,
Albuquerque, Land of Enchantment NM

[Pralix]

One of the problems that you are going to face is the slide depth of the 2106DS. It is not very deep compared to the models that already come with the dinette. You may get a 2 person dinette in there but anything else will be tough to do. A larger dinette will intrude more into the camper and you may lose your ability to utilize the kitchen and bathroom with the slide in. Also you walking space will be narrower.

[Blubugger]

Thanks....You are exactly right!! I kept measuring, making graphs....measuring again...and that fact that the dinette "floor" would be the existing deck under the jack knife sofa...i needed a 33" or 36" [max] seat width...RecPro has the 36"...that wouldnt be too long but the shorter would be best and thus would not put too much weight on the slideout fulcrum or extend much more into the interior.
And since there are only 2 of us...that narrow of a seat would be ok.
Still looking though, the added table would be a welcome addition. Additionally, the slideout width is slightly larger than 68" which would permit making those cushions into a 33x68 bed. And.....i would like to make it all transferable back and forth for future uses or if we ever sell the unit. TBD

[sinergee]

hi, we have the 2106 fbs with the same issue, we chose it because it was slide in friendly but the couch makes a horrible bed and we would like to change it out to a small dinette as well. We picked the 2106 fbs for the additional storage space the fixed bed gives us but i really wish i had seen the 2108 tb, that would have been perfect and we plan on putting twins in place of the queen but with the window placement on the fbs we wont be able to recoup the cupboard space above the windows that the TB model offers, anyways i just really wanted you to keep us informed with your final fix, so i can follow.

Also does anyone know of a good place to purchase RV cupboards? i can add one above the window on the door side of our micro,

johnette

[stoney1]

We have a fold up table that is a foot or two shorter than the sofa. It stores behind the sofa when not in use. Easy peasy!

[Blubugger]

As we crank our way to 2020, I am using the winter doldrums to continue investigating and acquiring parts and info for removing the murphy bed, installing a short dinette. Since wifey and I are not tall, i am gearing to a 24x30 table, mounted on 1 standard removable RV tapered legs. This number would be determined by how sturdy the table is using up to 3. To ease in setup/takedown, the table will not be wall-mounted as that would require mounts on the slideout, below the window. This would also let us get table legs of a comfortable height and, where needed, enable us to change the dinette table back to a "gaucho" setup when needed. Also, I intend to leave the murphy bed mechanism intact and the table mounts would be not anchored to the floor area under the murphy bed, but a removable floor panel. Only the seats would be mounted to that large panel.
The remaining issue is seating [either commercial, or homemade] and chair cushions. I did check with RecPro who have a nice cushion set but their smallest is 39" [the max seat length for the 2106 would be 33"]. They could not supply that as yet but could if the demand arises.
So, in closing: does anywho have suggestions on the number of legs and tapered mounts that may be needed? The table top is not heavy [14#]
And has anyone know of other suppliers of cushions and seats?

At any rate Happy New Year to all! And a successful 2020!

[Blubugger]

Originally Posted by Pralix

One of the problems that you are going to face is the slide depth of the 2106DS. It is not very deep compared to the models that already come with the dinette. You may get a 2 person dinette in there but anything else will be tough to do. A larger dinette will intrude more into the camper and you may lose your ability to utilize the kitchen and bathroom with the slide in. Also you walking space will be narrower.

True, true. So I am going with a 30" depth dinette which will seat only two [the area under the removed murphy bed is ~33"x68". To keep it simple and minimum weight, a 24"x30" molded edge tabletop [Flash furniture] atop 2 tapered RV legs [no wall attachment] should do the trick. The seats, I will have to construct using lightweight plywood. These will have lift-up seating for access to a storage area under the seats. Cushions and pillows TBD.
Again, to facilitate ease of switching back to "stock" should that be desired, all of the dinette items will be mounted upon a "false floor" of plywood or composition panel, eliminating any drastic modifications to the slideout area.
Stay tuned! Its still winter, so I am acquiring hardware, etc. COLD!

[Blubugger]

Murphy bed to Dinette mods for the 2018 Micro 2106ds

Initial Install
chairs 18x25
Table 24x30
21” legs [as shown with ~3” riser]

Considerations
Murphy bed mounting hardware to remain in place
Lightweight construction: thin plywood ppanels, thin dimension pine sheathing utilized.
Increased under seat storage, vastly improved table/counter space
False floor to mount all hardware, seats, table legs upon
Minimum [if any] modification to slideout

Lessons learned
21” legs are too short, 25 ½” [next size up] will provide ample room under table for average size knees.
Chairs should have been made to 18x18. The initial thought of 25 or 30” chair cushion length does add appreciably more underseat storage, but acquiring suitable cushions of that size is difficult. Also, smaller seats are lighter. The 18” width chairs present more under-window storage area for flat items such as photovoltaic panels, camp tables etc.
Thus far a search for commercially available cushions has Ikea as the best fitting 25” cushions and pillows at reasonable prices. Canvas gray in color. TBD
The intention was to leave the murphy bed mechanism intact to facilitate reinstallation of the bed should that be desired or in the event of sale. It also appears to add structure to the slideout base.
So, its getting warmer, that white stuff that settles on the mountain peaks is staying right there.....makes a beautiful picture. But it is time to shake off the winter blues, cabin fever and get outdoors!!

[Blubugger]

February 2020 Update: With all hardware in place except for the allusive 24" seats and cushions for the dinette chairs [we will do so with smaller upholstery for the duration], the net weight gain is ~30# of which 22 of that is the 1/2" plywood subfloor upon which everything was mounted. This results in no mods to the slideout base, no holes, no hardware removal. The two jack-knife mechanisms are not effected and slide moves smoothly. Later we will try our 1st trip of the new year. Will report.

[Blubugger]

Well, with 2020 behind us and dealing with the C-19 stuffola, I continued in my quest to make a comfortable dinette in the slide to replace the clumsy jackknife sofa and heavy fold-up portable table.
Again, my quest was to not modify, drill or cut into the trailer slide, and save all of the removed items if someone [or we] ever want to return the trailer to stock condition.
So, the earlier 26" homemade seats and cushions were removed [the orange set shown], I ordered a set of RecPro Charles 36" seat cushions and reconfigured bases for the new upholstery [2nd photo].
The result is a comfortable three foot wide seating area [again, not necessarily enough room for a four person eating area, but certainly very roomy for the two of us [wife and 100# doggie]. No, doggie eats on the floor. So now we can enjoy the added table space, open the blinds to view the early sunshine and early birds.
Additionally there is plenty of storage space under tge seats for bulky but lightweight items.
I figure the total increase in weight on the slide is probably under 30# [versus the sofa and table]. The seats, table stanchions and all are mounted only to the false floor which also locks the assembly into the sofa mounting system which was not disturbed. Also the loss of space in the living area due to the increased slide depth is also a non-issue [doggie has plenty of room!].

Time to go boondocking!!

[GingerPop]

Would love to get more detailed plans of what u did with your final revised modifications. We hate the jackknife sofa but we want to design a dinette that converts to sleeping space too. I think I can modify your design but would love to know how you got the jackknife out, details on your table, how you did the laminate flooring on the ply, etc.

[Blubugger]

In time I will get you somemore detailed drawings etc to you for the conversion.
Twas a long process because I wanted to have the dinette completely removable without modifying the original slideout.
Removing the sofa, leaving both end hinges in place, I cut a 3/8" plywood "false floor" [nominal 36" X 68"] that everything is anchored to (via “tee” nuts underside) and therefore no holes etc drilled or screws into the original slideout base which is over an inch thick but ~30" depth. I have the sofa and upholstered kick plate stored in case we ever sell the trailer and the new owner wants to return to the sofa config.
Since I left the sofa mechanism in place I then needed a method of securing the false floor into the slideout area, so i made the seat bottoms with a notch in them so they would then be placed inboard, then slid into the mechanism on both sides thus anchoring everything to that false floor.
If that is not the case for you, the much easier option is to remove sofa and mechanism and fashioning the two seats from 1” dimension lumber (or plywood etc) keep in mind that everything must fit thru the trailer narrow door, then mount them and the table base directly to the slideout base. Be advised that you have to figure a method of extending the jacknife sofa platform out to accommodate the 36" chairs.
Here are some measurements of the seats and table
Seat platform 22" by 15"height. Seatback 31" 36" is the minimum that RecPro makes. Thus the seat has ~ half inside the slideout, and half into the trailer. So not much floor space lost due to the extended seats.
Cushions are from RecPro, 4" thick 36" wide, seat pads 22", seat backs 12"
Since the slideout in the 2106ds is ~68" wide...for your plans of having the option of a sleeping area by removing the table and hardware...when all four cushions are layed flat, they just fit in the 68" slideout [the chair backs ensure that the cushions stay put]. Also, since the RecPro seats come with a generous supply of velcro to keep them in place....they can be positioned to ensure that everything stays put. I obtained the Mahogany seats direct from RecPro while they had a sale goin on. Their products are also available thru Amazon [slightly higher price, but expedited delivery].
As for a sleeping area, I have yet to address that. Remove the table and stanchions and a 24" X 36" platform would need to be inserted between the seats to spread all four cushions out for a relatively comfortable bed. That was another one of our dislikes of the sofa...you tended to be drawn into the cushion crack while sleeping. Not really comfortable!
RecPro: https://www.recpro.com/recpro-charle...h-memory-foam/
The table, stanchions and bases are available thru Amazon or what have you. Table is 24" X 30", Stanchions are 25" length resulting in a table height of 26". One of our aggravations is that many eating locations have the table height uncomfortably high.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
In our case, again I anchored the two base stanchions, cones and seats to the false floor plywood. The table top cone is screwed to an under-table plywood insert. Since the table has a recess, the table simply rests upon that insert even when underway. We have never had any problem with the pieces flying off. My philoshophy is that if indeed things do fly off....you have more serious problems outside the trailer or, you are off-roading [which is somewhat impossible in these lower-slung Micro-Minnies] at which point everything must be lashed down.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I removed the original upholstered slideout kick-plate which had a lip above the slideout surface and could be a trip hazard when exiting the dinette area. So, peel and stick vinyle tiles were used as flooring and aluminum angle for protection of the new edge due to shoe scuffs and scratches of the false-floor plywood.
The result: A very comfortable seating area [at least for the two of us] with added table top space. The slideout operates with no problems, the added weight is minimal.
One thing that does need be stressed [from my understanding] is that any slideout need to be either fully in or fully extended. Sitting on any surface or adding any weight to a sofa or dinette with the slideout at mid-position is asking for trouble. At midpoint, the weight of the entire slideout is on those very small, but powerful electric motors and gears.
So, after saying all of the above, I am musing over a third iteration of the seat bottoms etc. Perhaps a lighter wood or material and also add that bed option should we ever have a guest.
To be continued.

[GingerPop]

Thanks so much for this. Following for any more you post on this issue.

[Bcborn]

Originally Posted by Blubugger

In time I will get you somemore detailed drawings etc to you for the conversion.
Twas a long process because I wanted to have the dinette completely removable without modifying the original slideout.
Removing the sofa, leaving both end hinges in place, I cut a 3/8" plywood "false floor" [nominal 36" X 68"] that everything is anchored to (via “tee” nuts underside) and therefore no holes etc drilled or screws into the original slideout base which is over an inch thick but ~30" depth. I have the sofa and upholstered kick plate stored in case we ever sell the trailer and the new owner wants to return to the sofa config.
Since I left the sofa mechanism in place I then needed a method of securing the false floor into the slideout area, so i made the seat bottoms with a notch in them so they would then be placed inboard, then slid into the mechanism on both sides thus anchoring everything to that false floor.
If that is not the case for you, the much easier option is to remove sofa and mechanism and fashioning the two seats from 1” dimension lumber (or plywood etc) keep in mind that everything must fit thru the trailer narrow door, then mount them and the table base directly to the slideout base. Be advised that you have to figure a method of extending the jacknife sofa platform out to accommodate the 36" chairs.
Here are some measurements of the seats and table
Seat platform 22" by 15"height. Seatback 31" 36" is the minimum that RecPro makes. Thus the seat has ~ half inside the slideout, and half into the trailer. So not much floor space lost due to the extended seats.
Cushions are from RecPro, 4" thick 36" wide, seat pads 22", seat backs 12"
Since the slideout in the 2106ds is ~68" wide...for your plans of having the option of a sleeping area by removing the table and hardware...when all four cushions are layed flat, they just fit in the 68" slideout [the chair backs ensure that the cushions stay put]. Also, since the RecPro seats come with a generous supply of velcro to keep them in place....they can be positioned to ensure that everything stays put. I obtained the Mahogany seats direct from RecPro while they had a sale goin on. Their products are also available thru Amazon [slightly higher price, but expedited delivery].
As for a sleeping area, I have yet to address that. Remove the table and stanchions and a 24" X 36" platform would need to be inserted between the seats to spread all four cushions out for a relatively comfortable bed. That was another one of our dislikes of the sofa...you tended to be drawn into the cushion crack while sleeping. Not really comfortable!
RecPro: https://www.recpro.com/recpro-charle...h-memory-foam/
The table, stanchions and bases are available thru Amazon or what have you. Table is 24" X 30", Stanchions are 25" length resulting in a table height of 26". One of our aggravations is that many eating locations have the table height uncomfortably high.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
In our case, again I anchored the two base stanchions, cones and seats to the false floor plywood. The table top cone is screwed to an under-table plywood insert. Since the table has a recess, the table simply rests upon that insert even when underway. We have never had any problem with the pieces flying off. My philoshophy is that if indeed things do fly off....you have more serious problems outside the trailer or, you are off-roading [which is somewhat impossible in these lower-slung Micro-Minnies] at which point everything must be lashed down.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I removed the original upholstered slideout kick-plate which had a lip above the slideout surface and could be a trip hazard when exiting the dinette area. So, peel and stick vinyle tiles were used as flooring and aluminum angle for protection of the new edge due to shoe scuffs and scratches of the false-floor plywood.
The result: A very comfortable seating area [at least for the two of us] with added table top space. The slideout operates with no problems, the added weight is minimal.
One thing that does need be stressed [from my understanding] is that any slideout need to be either fully in or fully extended. Sitting on any surface or adding any weight to a sofa or dinette with the slideout at mid-position is asking for trouble. At midpoint, the weight of the entire slideout is on those very small, but powerful electric motors and gears.
So, after saying all of the above, I am musing over a third iteration of the seat bottoms etc. Perhaps a lighter wood or material and also add that bed option should we ever have a guest.
To be continued.

I like it, great job. I had a 30" x 72" dinette in my 2012 Kodiak 177QBSL. If you could have found 30" cushions what would you have done differently?

Would you have been able to remove the sofa completely and mount directly to the slide floor avoiding the step up and the front with a step to cover the wheel well as done in the kodiak. The finished product would be 30 x 68 correct?

And to revert back remove everything screw the sofa back down and your done.

[AZ Sky King]

We just purchased a used Micro Minnie with a sofa (instead of a dinette). The sofa looks terrible and we would like to replace it with a dinette like yours. Did you ever come up with any more detailed plans for the conversion? I am going to try to take out the sofa in the next couple weeks, take some pictures, and come back to my shop to see what I can build. Any help is appreciated. Thank you.

[Blubugger]

The shortest commercially available cushions that I found were 36" width from RecPro [available direct or on Amazon]. Right away I had to make a false floor panel that would extend the dinette floor past the standard 2106ds slideout floor [~30"] and didnt want to modify the slideout much, if at all.
Below are the general dimensions of my layout with 36" width RecPro cushions, which are very firm, comfortable and using RecPro's supplied velchro strips, do not slide around even when individuals are sitting down. The 26" table height couple with the ~18" seat height make for a comfortable seating arrangement for two people.

Remember, daylight increases after December 20th. Hooray!

[AZ Sky King]

Thanks so much for that drawing. I will get to work in my shop. Our first outing is next month down to Patagonia in Arizona. Probably won’t get installed before then but it will give me something to do. This unit really should have a dinette like that.

[Blubugger]

Az Sky King.....you are welcome! Over this winter, I may try a 2nd iteration of the seats. Make the frames lighter in weight and materials (thinner plywood, eliminate some hardware and floor). Perhaps round all edges with a router.
By using the RecPro seats (they are now $300/set from the factory) the seat bases just fit inside of the 22" door opening and individually are light enough to install and fasten to either the false floor or the slideout base.
I may also change the under-seat storage area from under the table opening to either a hinged door or drawer access from the galley area. TBD

[AZ Sky King]

Hi again,

Do you have any tips/tricks to remove the sofa in order to install the dinette?

Thanks again!

[Blubugger]

I think the way I found was to remove the sofa back first (4 nuts), then lift the bottom up part way to get the four nuts holding that to the hinge mechanism. Then remove the hinge leaving a clean slideout floor to attach the dinette seats and table legs.
Also, the 36" cushions are very comfortable, however if you can find an upholsterer who can make 30" wide dinette seat cushions, that would simplify installation and reduce the overall weight. A note: We here are both under 6' tall, average height and sit comfy in ours, my 6'4" brother....he has a problem!