Micro Minnie Suspension Height

[skeetman]

When we picked up our new Micro Minnie 1708FB back in May, the dealer never went over the suspension height adjustment for the trailer. My understanding is that on the new models, you can have the height of the trailer adjusted, the difference being about 3-4”. Ours came with it in the higher position, which does give it good ground clearance for areas where you don’t want your drain lines catching on anything. The downside however, is that it sits up higher meaning more vertical wind resistance when towing. So my question is, who else that owns this series of trailer uses the higher position and does anyone use the lower position. Our original purchase dealer is 3-1/2 hrs away, but our local dealer says they’d change the position of suspension and charge us two hours of labor
(about $220). Is it worth the change over or should I just leave it as delivered, any thoughts or am I overthinking things ?

[Goodspike]

The other advantage of lower is easier to get into and out of the trailer. I don't think the adjustment on my 2106DS is more than 2", but I'm on the lower setting.

Wind resistance would depend on your tow vehicle. I'd look at matching the bottom of the trailer with the bottom of your tow vehicle more than having any concern over the top height.

[TomC]

If you lower you will have to readjust your load leveling hitch.

[Trout One]

1708Bs are set to the higher position from the factory for - as you allude - more ground clearance in off-pavement situations. Our 1706FB was set low and we had the dealer lower the axles to gain that 3" of ground clearance so I can clear rocks and such on unpaved Forest Service roads, especially if I end up airing down the tires to help with going over the washboards. We also had the single folding step replaced with a folding double step so getting in and out of the trailer wouldn't be so tough.


Frankly, I'm finding that extra ground clearance to be pretty useful even on the road - those drains could have been snugged up against the rear wheel or the chassis a little better.

[Captain_RV8]

Hello. This is a topic I am very interested in. I just purchased used 2019 2106FBS. It doesn't have the suspension option that seems to be standard issue on the new units with the Off Road Package. I am just closing out a 5 week trip and have decided that the stock suspension setting places the plumbing a little too close to the ground.

I am using a 2017 Diesel Colorado with a 5" lift to pull it. I stopped and talked with another owner the other day that had what I believe was the 1706 with the taller suspension. I took some photos of his axle attachments. It appears that I have the exact same attachments and adjusting the axles will be fairly easy. When I return home, I am planning to pursue moving the axles to the middle attachments and possibly buying slightly larger tires.

Tires. The off-road package uses 15" wheels, where as mine came standard with 14" wheels.

If anyone perusing this thread has experience with this please advise. I will also follow up with any information that I find, or report back on the outcome.

[Mr .V.]

Your 2019 probably has the new style axle mount. If you look under the axle there are probably a set of lower bolt holes that you can just relocate your axle to. There are two little L brackets that you install above where the axle sits, on the inside of the mounting bracket thats welded to the frame, to provide extra support. I don’t know where to source these from, but there are a few discussions about it in the Micro Minnie Facebook group. I just installed a lift kit on my 2018 1700bh because it has the old style axle mount. I needed to install inserts. It is the Lippert diamond axle lift kit on etrailer. But on yours you likely don’t need that. Mine added 3.5” in height, then I swapped on the 15” rims and rubber (235/75/15) from my LivinLite pop up. Probably gave me 5” or so in total lift. I haven’t even pulled it off of my driveway yet, but to get it up without damaging the sewage piping I needed to lay down a bunch of wood as ramps. Now I should be able to go up and down no problem. Going to set up my WDH tomorrow, so that’ll be another first. Should be much better though.

[Mr .V.]

The bolts were torqued to 120 ft lbs, so I’m assuming that’s what you would need to torque to if you dropped and remounted the axle. Also the kit came with new torque nuts and hardware. Not sure if you’d want new torque nuts or not.

[backtrack15]

I'm curious if anyone has looked at the sticker on the axles themselves. I looked under one on the lot some 18-months ago and noted they were Lippert torsion axles. I didn't note the model# or any info on the capacity.

While searching the web this morning, I can't seem to find any info on a 3700# torsion axle from Lippert... only 3500#. That leaves me slightly curious as to what they actually are.

[Goodspike]

Originally Posted by backtrack15

I'm curious if anyone has looked at the sticker on the axles themselves. I looked under one on the lot some 18-months ago and noted they were Lippert torsion axles. I didn't note the model# or any info on the capacity.

While searching the web this morning, I can't seem to find any info on a 3700# torsion axle from Lippert... only 3500#. That leaves me slightly curious as to what they actually are.

I would assume they are 3,500, thus the 7,000 pound GVWR of the trailer.

[backtrack15]

Originally Posted by Goodspike

I would assume they are 3,500, thus the 7,000 pound GVWR of the trailer.

That makes perfect sense, I agree. Why list the GAWR as 3700# on the side of the trailer? Did they add 200lbs for the axle itself and wheels/tires? It's just another one of life's little curiosities that doesn't matter much unless you're trying to order the right replacement parts (bearings/seals/etc).

Edit - but by then you actually have the trailer and can look for yourself!

[Goodspike]

Originally Posted by backtrack15

Edit - but by then you actually have the trailer and can look for yourself!

Unfortunately, I can't--I park it off-site from my home.

[efmnvt]

We purchased a 2108DS this past spring. Our previous camper was very low to the ground, I replaced several sewer caps! I’m also considering lowering our 2108, it’s on the top setting with 15” wheels. What is a good recommended minimum clearance for the sewer? Mine is currently about 12.5”. I think it could be lowered either about 1.5” or 3.5”. Seems like a 9” clearance would be plenty. We tow the camper with a Jeep Grand Cherokee. Our Jeep probably has less clearance.
Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

[etubridy]

My dealer apparently didn't know about the height adjustment either. Mine came set in the highest position as shown below.



It looks to me like there are two lower settings as mentioned in a previous post - about 1 1/2" and 3" as shown. It also looks like at the lowest setting you would NOT use the flange shown here:



I need to drop mine as much as possible.

[Frankf]

Bring this back up to ask if anyone has done the frame lowering procedure. I'm assuming my 2108DS is at the "highest" level. I was considering lowering it thinking it lower the center of gravity, thus improving handling, and making entry and exit easier.

Although it does pull fine in its current position. Any comments?

[Marine359]

Originally Posted by etubridy

My dealer apparently didn't know about the height adjustment either. Mine came set in the highest position as shown below.

I need to drop mine as much as possible.

Curious why you would want to drop your axles.
We’ve found the highest height tows extremely well, enables us to go down blm roads (with torsion bars off), and precludes dragging the rear end on steep driv ways (like some fuel stations). I dunno a downside the high mount position.

[backtrack15]

If you’ve got a 2021b (Dexter axles), I think she’s as low as she goes already. You could likely add spacers to go up, but I don’t think you can go down.

[etubridy]

Turned out it was fairly easy to drop the axles. I needed to do this to align the hitch with the receiver on my BMW X6. Wouldn’t need to do it if I were towing it with a pickup truck but what fun is that? Car and Minnie handle great now but I will need to be more careful on rougher roads.

I just carefully jacked the trailer up and supported it with jack stands while I used a floor jack to raise each axle. Winnebago recommends replacing the lock nuts when you do the change.

[Frankf]

Originally Posted by backtrack15

If you’ve got a 2021b (Dexter axles), I think she’s as low as she goes already. You could likely add spacers to go up, but I don’t think you can go down.

I believe you are correct. Mine did have the Dexter axeles. I took a gander under the rig last night and it is not adjustable. There are no adjustment holes. So I'm good go.

The Dexter axels have a label that states: Capacity 2500. Is this the axel GAWR? 2,500 x 2 = 5,000?

2108DS has a GVWR of 7,000 lbs, dry weight of 4,410.

Not that I'd ever max out at 7,000 lbs, but does this mean that at 7,000 lbs, 2,000 lbs would be on the hitch point?

[Frankf]

Originally Posted by Marine359

Curious why you would want to drop your axles.
We’ve found the highest height tows extremely well, enables us to go down blm roads (with torsion bars off), and precludes dragging the rear end on steep driv ways (like some fuel stations). I dunno a downside the high mount position.

Yes it does tow fine at it's set height. I was just curious about the adjustment capability I kept hearing about. However, The Dexter axels on my rig appear to be not adjustable. That's good for me. Now I won't have to be messing with something I have no business missing with.

[backtrack15]

Originally Posted by Frankf

I believe you are correct. Mine did have the Dexter axeles. I took a gander under the rig last night and it is not adjustable. There are no adjustment holes. So I'm good go.

The Dexter axels have a label that states: Capacity 2500. Is this the axel GAWR? 2,500 x 2 = 5,000?

2108DS has a GVWR of 7,000 lbs, dry weight of 4,410.

Not that I'd ever max out at 7,000 lbs, but does this mean that at 7,000 lbs, 2,000 lbs would be on the hitch point?

If your axles are labeled as 2500#, then the GAWR of each axle is 2500 and I expect the GVWR sticker on the side of the trailer says 5000 (not 7000).