Micro Minnie Thread

[Sun_Seeker]

Originally Posted by 455lark

We bought our 2106DS just over 2 years ago now. Probably over 15 trips in it and a ton of miles , great trailer. Tankless water Heater has been a bit of a fight , but cross my fingers the last 5 trips out no problem with it. The last trip out we installed a window Mural over the Bed , a upgrade I saw someone do on another forum. Turned out great. In the upper right hand corner you can see the LED reading light I Installed for the Wife.

WOW...that looks fantastic...what a great idea! Wow...happy trails!

[Sun_Seeker]

Originally Posted by Bigearl

We have just bought a 2017 Micro Minnie 1706FB, it was used and 1 year old. We bought it sight unseen from Northgate RV in Georgia and when we inspected it it was absolutely pristine and you would never know it was used, the folks at the dealer were great.
Our tow vehicle is a 2017 Jeep Grand Cherokee 3.6 litre V6 with tow package, so I specifically wanted this trailer model for its light weight and dual axles. I was extremely pleased with the towing ability of this setup, the Jeep pulled it up the hills on I75 well and the rig was rock steady even when trucks passed by. The sweet spot for the Jeep was about 60 to 65 MPH with 2500 RPM. Below these revs the torque was insufficient, so on the level we were in 6th gear mainly, dropping to 5th gear on steeper hills. (the Jeep has an 8 speed transmission), MPG towing was 14.2 MPG measured on actual fuel consumed over 856 miles as we headed back to Canada.
We previously had a 24 ft Dutchman Aspen Trail and towed it with a 2014 F150, 5 litre V8. The overall length of that rig was 44 ft and we found this was a bit long for some State and National Parks in the Southwest US and wanted to down size. All forms of RVing require compromises and with a trailer as small as the 1706FB even for two people it is tight and one just has to organize carefully. We have a few small modifications to make but overall based on our previous experiences including boon docking for up to a week we think this rig will be great.
By the way for Canadians thinking of importing a trailer from the US the process was very easy and a money saver, just do your homework well. We primarily did this as there were no 1706FB's for sale in Ontario without ordering.

Thanks for posting! I am towing a 2018 1706FB with my 2019 Dodge Grand Caravan with the OEM Mopar Tow package...and getting on average 13.5-15 mpg at 60 mph. If I hit head winds, or start climbing hills greater than a 4 percent grade, my tow mileage drops to around 12.4 mpg. Quite happy with those figures, when you think that a non towing Ford F-150 gives out 14-17 mpg just running down the road, naked.

[Sun_Seeker]

Originally Posted by Bigearl

We have been in campsites with 15A in our 1706FB and were able to run all appliances, just don't run them simultaneously. The big current draws are from the A/C, water heater and microwave, we just made sure we had only one of those on at a time. If the campsite has a low voltage I would not vouch for the A/C however.

You can run everything, but I would not even attempt to run the AC on a 15 amp circuit. You are at risk of 'browning out' and put a terrible strain (even burnout) of your AC's compressor. If you are going to be running with 15 amp service in the summer time...I'd make sure that I had two oscillating fans on-board for such times...unless you want to risk frying your AC's compressor. THAT will end up costing $$$'s to fix....

[Sun_Seeker]

Originally Posted by Bigearl

With the 1706 FB's GVWR capacity, weight is not a concern so we usually have lots of fresh water in our tanks while towing, but I try to dump the grey and if the black is 2/3 full I dump that too as those two tanks are to the rear of the trailer so getting rid of weight there reduces the risk of sway. I figure our loaded weight to be about 4100 to 4200 lb with full fresh tanks ( I have weighed it with a partial load, no water or food supplies) and the Jeep weighs about 4500 lb empty so we have a heavier tow vehicle than the trailer which is necessary in my opinion.
We previously had a 24 ft Aspen Trail which we towed with a 2014 5.0 F150, but the SUV is so much more preferable for general use that we downsized and aside from the tight bathroom in the 1706 FB we find it much more convenient. There are many National parks and State/Provincial parks with length restrictions that we now comply with and we think these are the most attractive camping sites. That's just one persons opinion however.
Glen enjoy the east coast we did it last year and the lobster and scallops were marvelous.

I tow a 2018 1706 with a 2019 Dodge Grand Caravan, and get loaded out, an average 13.5-15 mpg at 60 mph. If I hit a headwind...I get usually 12.4 mpg at the same 60 mph. The 1706 tows beautifully behind my G.C. and the tranny doesn't seem too stressed out, doing it, either. All in all, am very happy that I can tow it with my preferred vehicle, as this G.C. is my third, and I want no other....

[stoney1]

Hi Kelly,
I'm a newbie as well and haven't tried the cable yet but this thought crossed my mind..did you change the input source on your TV and do you have the cable from the TV running up to the correct connection above the TV? There is one for cable and one for antenna. BTW, my 2106 has a Signia TV and to access the back panel you have to lift the TV straight up out of the mount. There is no latch on it.
On another matter, How about the antenna? Have you got it to work? I was told I may have to get a digital converter.
Let me know how things work, I have a 2018 yr. 2106

[Bigearl]

Originally Posted by Sun_Seeker

I tow a 2018 1706 with a 2019 Dodge Grand Caravan, and get loaded out, an average 13.5-15 mpg at 60 mph. If I hit a headwind...I get usually 12.4 mpg at the same 60 mph. The 1706 tows beautifully behind my G.C. and the tranny doesn't seem too stressed out, doing it, either. All in all, am very happy that I can tow it with my preferred vehicle, as this G.C. is my third, and I want no other....

Same motor as my Jeep Grand Cherokee, 3.6 Litre Pentastar

[Sun_Seeker]

Originally Posted by Bigearl

Same motor as my Jeep Grand Cherokee, 3.6 Litre Pentastar

Correct, with the 6 speed transmission. A great and strong towing combo. What mpg are you getting on a flat highway at 60 mph? We run with the usual suspects in the storage locker...but both grey and black bone dry, and no potable water, getting 13.5-15 mpg with no hills....with hills, around 12.3-13 mpg. I bought the 2018 1706FB for trans continental towing, as I head into full Retirement. I find those mpg figures acceptable for that purpose.

[Sun_Seeker]

If you want to use any Park cable system...or Sat, you first need to press the on/off button on your booster antenna. Make sure the little green or red light is off. If not, it will interfere with either cable or sat receiving. When finished with either, don't forget to turn your over-the-air power amplifier back on...or you'll wonder why your O.T.A. receivership is so lousy, in fringe areas...(digital and analog).

[Ethan]

We just bought a 2020 2106DS in August. Pulling with Dodge Ream 1500. Been on two trips so far. Any good suggestions for winterizing? Owner manual isn't the clearest on directions.

[Ethan]

Hey Mike can I run 50 Amp OK in my 2106DS? It's a new one and have the 50 amp dog bone to use if 30 amp isn't available. What would good surge protector be if you have any suggestions.
Thanks
Ethan

[Bigbird65]

Ethan, here ya go:
Winterizing – Air compressor method – Minnie 2250DS by Ken Spears
This is specific to our Minnie but applies to all Minnies, the only difference is the location of the items listed. I have included photos of these items.

1. Start by draining the 3 tanks.

2. Open a water faucet. Turn on the water pump for about 20 seconds to run it dry.

3. On the outside of the Minnie drain the water heater by removing the drain plug or opening the drain valve, see photo. Lift the lever on the relief valve to vent air into the tank. Drop the lever when draining the tank is finished and reinstall the drain plug.

4. Bypass the water heater.

5. Put 35 psi air on the city water inlet and open each faucet in turn one at a time to blow out water until you only get air then close the faucet. Don’t forget the outside shower.

6. Open the toilet valve to blow out the toilet.

7. Open the low point drains. After 5 minutes, remove the 35 psi air.

8. Blow out the black tank blow down line by using the 35 psi air.

9. The fresh water pump has a filter on the inlet of the pump. Make sure there is no water in the filter. If necessary unscrew the clear cup on the filter and empty it.

10. Put some pink stuff (RV anti-freeze available at Wal-Mart) in the sink drains and lavatory drain and enough in the shower drain to get it to the gray tank discharge valve.

11. Also put some pink stuff in the toilet and flush to get it into the black tank discharge valve. Leave a little pink stuff in the toilet. Return the water heater to the normal or non bypassed condition.

12. Close the low point drain valves before the next camping trip. Also, fill the water heater by opening a hot water faucet with water pressure on the heater before the next camping trip. Do this before turning on electricity or propane.

[Sun_Seeker]

...also one gallon of RV anti-freeze should be poured down and into (through the toilet) the Black Holding Tank. It submerges the tank side of the flush gate valve, and won't let expanding ice crystals attack it. You should also pour 1/4 gallon of RV anti-freeze into all your P-Traps....kitchen sink, bathroom sink, shower/bath P-Trap. (A P-Trap is the plumbing pipe configuration that holds water, so gasses sitting below the trap will not emit upwards through the drains of the sinks, bathroom, and shower stall. All the traps being poured with 1/4 of a gallon, allows the Grey Tank to receive a full gallon of RV anti-freeze also, for the purpose of bathing the tank side of the gate valve, to protect the entire body of it, from water crystal expansion. Also, as a side note, if there is any stress fracture of the tank composition, from being suspended below the frame, and over the miles being towed. having a coating across the bottom of both tank faces, stops any water crystals from expanding, and splitting apart any stress seam. Water drops expand equidistant to its center point...and exerts expansion forces vertically, as well as horizontally. So, as the water crystals freeze, they will literally act as a hydraulic press, to cause the hairline fracture to increase, or outright cause a integrity failure. THAT is why a full gallon of RV A.F. goes into each tank, and not just 'Ok I poured some RV down the P- Traps...so whatever goes into the tank'..... It should be a full poured gallon, to protect the flush gate valve and the bottom of the two tanks, where water crystals can still collect over the winter, from the very atmosphere....and not because you were not thorough in flushing them out. You can never get every drop of H2O, out of the lines, or the tank. One last suggestion, always keep all your taps wide open...to allow for no pressure buildup, and if there is any freezing of H2O, the expansion, will follow for the most part, the shape of the tubes...and not press outward upon those very tubes. Just some suggestions, to add to the above, good advise. Having your taps open, whether in your brick n' mortar, or your RV, will allow for this and not crack open your solder seams, or compromise the plastic lines. In Brick n' Mortar, your garden taps, are the most important to, after draining them, leave them full open, after having turned off the water supply to them. Just leave a note to yourself that all outside taps are full open, ready for Spring...(large smile).

[Ethan]

Thanks Ken that's pretty detailed. Much appreciated.

[09busaman]

Hi guys, we recently purchased a 20 Micro Minnie 1708FB and are very happy with it. Just me and wife and our boxer fur baby. We chose this one to tow with my wifes Tacoma, just dont have it set up yet with weight distribution. Here is a shot of it last weekend. We love this camper, especially after coming out of a roof top tent.

[Bigbird65]

Originally Posted by Ethan

Thanks Ken that's pretty detailed. Much appreciated.

You are welcome. Good luck with winterizing.

[Sun_Seeker]

Originally Posted by 09busaman

Hi guys, we recently purchased a 20 Micro Minnie 1708FB and are very happy with it. Just me and wife and our boxer fur baby. We chose this one to tow with my wifes Tacoma, just dont have it set up yet with weight distribution. Here is a shot of it last weekend. We love this camper, especially after coming out of a roof top tent.

Congrats's! I own the same as you, but a 2018 model 1706FB. Basically the same as you, without a dinette slide. Love it...tows like a dream, and let's me use a 2019 Dodge Grand Caravan as the tow vehicle. Off tow, 28-30 mpg, at towing, 13.5-15 mpg both figures at 60 mph, highway driving. Can't beat that!

Enjoy! I use a Reese V5 WDH. The Grand Caravan with the MOPAR tow package, has built in load leveling shocks and air bags, and along with the Reese hitch...the 1706FB tows level, with no sway.

BTW, I wrote about the failure of the 1 inch by 1 inch front Queen size bed bulkhead that sits attached to the front of the trailer wall, by only screws.

Mine failed with two persons in it, the fourth time, we went camping,...me at 250, pounds and my gal at 135 pounds. There was a wood cracking sound and the whole bed at the front side of the trailer fell down into the storage locker, over 3 1/2 inches!

I suggest that you create a false wall, built by 2x4's under it, and supporting it, with the vertical support legs resting on the actual floor of the storage locker area. You don't want this happening while on a camping trip, such as it did for us...(a 2018 model), and possibly damaging anything stored below you, let alone wrecking the interior wall of the front of your trailer....I was lucky in that...that it did not rip or tear the front wall as it dropped down.

Just something to look at from the bottom and for you to decide if that 1 inch by 1 inch factory 'bulkhead' screwed to only the front wall, is sufficient for you and your partner. Now that mine is bolstered and properly supported, I have no further worries ever of the bad frame failing below us, while out upon the open road. Nope.

Also, I suggest that you place a 1/2 wall board insulation board (with the foil side up and facing your bottom mattress), onto the 1/8 ply of your bed deck, to stop your bottom of the mattress from getting cold (coming up from the lower storage area) and might cause a condensation issue on the bottom of the mattress by moisture wicking down through the mattress from your bodies. This happens...and has been noted on some threads on the Internet. If you never do any area camping where it goes below 55 F, then you might have no worries. If you do...doing this, will prevent mold and mildew (odors) from happening to the bottom side of your queen mattress. I read about this, and it made sense to me, with our beds directly above a cold uninsulated area...and so will be doing this as the first thing, next Spring, after un-Wintering the 1706FB. Happy trails!

[echomonkey]

Hey all, newb here. Just bought our first Winnebago, traded an Rpod 180 for a 2108DS. Pretty psyched to have some extra room, and to be able to get out of bed without having to crawl over each other. The fit and finish of the Winnie looks way nicer as well. Is there a thread of “must do mods” or anything like that?

[RDP]

I just purchased a 2020 Micro Minnie 2306BHS. It is winterized and I have to wait 3 months before I get to use it for for 1st time. I have some quick questions for any 2306BHS owners. Question #1 I removed the panels under the sink, I see the bypass for the water heater, pump, line for pumping in RV antifreeze, etc. I see a mix of the normal white valves and new different black valves. Going to assume the black valves turn 90 to the water line is off and parallel to the water line is on, correct? Where are the valves for the 2 drain lines in the back of the trailer. I'm think it is the 2 screws on small top wood panel on the head of the bottom rear bunk bed and would be able to access the the screws by raising the top bunk bed. Is this correct? Could I get a quick run through on valve positions when I am ready to flush the anti-freeze and fill the water heater? Do you fill the water tank completely when you sanitize the system? Thanks, Roger

[echomonkey]

Originally Posted by RDP

I just purchased a 2020 Micro Minnie 2306BHS. It is winterized and I have to wait 3 months before I get to use it for for 1st time. I have some quick questions for any 2306BHS owners. Question #1 I removed the panels under the sink, I see the bypass for the water heater, pump, line for pumping in RV antifreeze, etc. I see a mix of the normal white valves and new different black valves. Going to assume the black valves turn 90 to the water line is off and parallel to the water line is on, correct? Where are the valves for the 2 drain lines in the back of the trailer. I'm think it is the 2 screws on small top wood panel on the head of the bottom rear bunk bed and would be able to access the the screws by raising the top bunk bed. Is this correct? Could I get a quick run through on valve positions when I am ready to flush the anti-freeze and fill the water heater? Do you fill the water tank completely when you sanitize the system? Thanks, Roger

If nobody gets back to you sooner, I’m getting the dealer walk through on our new unit next weekend, I will definitely be asking what each valve does and where to find them.

[RDP]

Originally Posted by echomonkey

If nobody gets back to you sooner, I’m getting the dealer walk through on our new unit next weekend, I will definitely be asking what each valve does and where to find them.

Thanks, echomonkey, my dealer did not go through any of the valve locations.