Micro Minnie Thread

[bruceb]

Originally Posted by splitley

2016 Chevy Colorado w/ Duramax diesel
2018 Winnebago 2106DS
17-18 mpg ave. towing
Very pleased with the Colorado, especially cruising along at 1800 rpm's (Flats) and a high of 2800-3000 in the Mtns. of Colorado

That is amazing. I towed my new 2106ds home from the dealer with my new 3.0 dmax and only got 12.

[Marine359]

Congrats Shenight.
We too just bought a new 2108ds. Just got back home. See my review under 2108ds Review

[reiberc]

Originally Posted by Just Mike

I used that method on my previous RV - E-Pro 19FBS - with no problems. I intend to winterize my new 2108DS the same way.

Be sure to remove the drain plug from the hot water heater, drain the fresh water tank and open the low point drains.

I observed the service rep @ Beckley's RV winterize my RV. It was worth seeing a couple of tricks:
a. buy a 3/8" by 18" black tube at local AutoZone (or equiv). Bend a 90deg 3" long on one end and insert into the hot water tank drain after removing the plug with a 15/16" socket. The water that collects at the low point will blow out the 3/8" line faster and more efficient.

b. Access to the hot water bypass is in Bath sink cabinet... remove the 4 screws.

c. Access to the water pump is in the main sink cabinet 'floor'... remove the 4 screws. You'll find the valves and the winterization support line that you insert into the antifreeze gallon jug you buy.

d. When blowing the water lines with the compressor connected to the city water inlet keep compressor <60psi to protect the water lines from damage.

e. Ditto what everyone else recommended on pink stuff in the tanks.

[reiberc]

I observed the service rep @ Beckley's RV winterize my RV. It was worth seeing a couple of tricks:
a. buy a 3/8" by 18" black tube at local AutoZone (or equiv). Bend a 90deg 3" long on one end and insert into the hot water tank drain after removing the plug with a 15/16" socket. The water that collects at the low point will blow out the 3/8" line faster and more efficient.

b. Access to the hot water bypass is in Bath sink cabinet... remove the 4 screws.

c. Access to the water pump is in the main sink cabinet 'floor'... remove the 4 screws. You'll find the valves and the winterization support line that you insert into the antifreeze gallon jug you buy.

d. When blowing the water lines with the compressor connected to the city water inlet keep compressor <60psi to protect the water lines from damage.

e. Ditto what everyone else recommended on pink stuff in the tanks.

[bruceb]

Originally Posted by Just Mike

I used that method on my previous RV - E-Pro 19FBS - with no problems. I intend to winterize my new 2108DS the same way.

Be sure to remove the drain plug from the hot water heater, drain the fresh water tank and open the low point drains.

where are the low point drains on a 2106ds??

[Marine359]

Low point drains on 2108ds are under the bathroom sink. Remove the panel held in by four wood screws

[dmacd]

Does anyone have the dimensions of the exterior pack and play door by the bunk beds on the 2100BH? Wondering if I could remove the bottom bunk and be able to fit my bike through there to store it if I took off the front wheel.

[backtrack15]

Originally Posted by dmacd

Does anyone have the dimensions of the exterior pack and play door by the bunk beds on the 2100BH? Wondering if I could remove the bottom bunk and be able to fit my bike through there to store it if I took off the front wheel.

I can’t imagine you’d have any trouble. I’ll try to remember to measure it later when I get my trailer from storage. It’s pretty big.

[dmacd]

Originally Posted by backtrack15

I can’t imagine you’d have any trouble. I’ll try to remember to measure it later when I get my trailer from storage. It’s pretty big.

Appreciate it, tried to Sherlock the dimensions by comparing a side view of the trailer and assuming the 10' height spec means from the ground and not from the trailer, getting about 46"h x 33"w. If its any lower than that will have to pop the front wheel off, but much preferred keeping it in the trailer. Looks like a nice little "garage" space if you dont need the bottom bunk

[backtrack15]

Originally Posted by dmacd

Appreciate it, tried to Sherlock the dimensions by comparing a side view of the trailer and assuming the 10' height spec means from the ground and not from the trailer, getting about 46"h x 33"w. If its any lower than that will have to pop the front wheel off, but much preferred keeping it in the trailer. Looks like a nice little "garage" space if you dont need the bottom bunk

Width is 27.5”. Overall height is 39”. Upper corners have about a 3.75”radius. These are the interior (most restrictive) dimensions with the door open.

[dmacd]

Originally Posted by backtrack15

Width is 27.5”. Overall height is 39”. Upper corners have about a 3.75”radius. These are the interior (most restrictive) dimensions with the door open.

Gotcha, figured all the rubber around the door was throwing me off, looking like I'll have to pop the front wheel off, probably make it easier to lift a 70lb ebike anyway

[Marine359]

Hey gang,
Need your input on this topic. We are heading south to Florida from North Carolina in January for several weeks.

We’re getting used to using our recently purchased 2108DS. The dealer outfitted it with a cheesy automotive battery which is not capable of running the 12v only fridge for more than a few hours. I thought first to replace the fridge with a two way, but we’re kinda getting used to the large size of the 12v. So, we’ve decided to upgrade the electrical system with the goal of being able to boondock for 5 or more days. We don’t want to have to run a generator for more then 2-3 hours daily to recharge battery bank.

Here’s what I’m thinking,
2 x 100ah LifePo4 batteries in parallel
Replace the stock converter with a 30 amp auto switching inverter charger.
Maybe have 100amp portable/foldable solar panel
Daily charging with Honda EU2200i inverter generator.

We don’t use hair dryers. Maybe use the microwave occasionally. Biggest draw is for the 12v fridge, and furnace blower when running, and/or roof vent fans. We make coffee with a press.

We think we can run roof air on the Honda if we start fan only, then cool. If not we can buy an easy start.

Please help. We’re retired on fixed income, so any suggestions to save money are more than welcome.

Your comments

[johnevans3]

I have a 100 watt Renogy solar suitcase panel that has produced about 35 or so amp hours on an ideal day of sun. Charge rate of up to 6 amps. This helps recharge the two lead acid batteries that power the house. These batteries take a long time to charge up. In addition, when the generator is running, the two wet cell house batteries are being charged by the factory installed power center by WFCO. About 3 hours of generator time split between morning and evening plus solar charging keeps those batteries topped off pretty well.
In addition, I have an Ionic lithium battery and 1200 watt inverter to supply A/C power when Boondocking. To keep that battery charged, I have an 10 Amp A/C lithium battery charger connected to the generator. With 3 hours of generator time per day it has provided about 95% of what the battery would need for full charge. The lithium battery uses about 25-30 amp hours per day for tv, clock, and CPAP machine. I haven’t put any additional loads on this set up because still experimenting on how to effectively and efficiently use this set up.
Realize that these are two independent electrical systems. The house system is just like it originally came from the factory except for an additional battery that are both charged with the generator and solar panel. The lithium system is a stand alone that powers the inverter and is charged by a lithium 110v A/C charger powered by the generator. Yep, a little cumbersome but relatively cheap, non intrusive to the factory setup and I don’t have to worry about burning up an alternator when connected to my tow vehicle.
My next decision point will be about what to replace those crappy lead acid batteries with. Weight on the tongue of my micro Minnie is a big concern so big 6 v Trojans or heavy AGMs are not an option. May have to put another lithium in, change out the charger board in the power center and get a dc/dc box to protect the tow alternator. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

[dmacd]

Originally Posted by Marine359

Hey gang,
Need your input on this topic. We are heading south to Florida from North Carolina in January for several weeks.

We’re getting used to using our recently purchased 2108DS. The dealer outfitted it with a cheesy automotive battery which is not capable of running the 12v only fridge for more than a few hours. I thought first to replace the fridge with a two way, but we’re kinda getting used to the large size of the 12v. So, we’ve decided to upgrade the electrical system with the goal of being able to boondock for 5 or more days. We don’t want to have to run a generator for more then 2-3 hours daily to recharge battery bank.

Here’s what I’m thinking,
2 x 100ah LifePo4 batteries in parallel
Replace the stock converter with a 30 amp auto switching inverter charger.
Maybe have 100amp portable/foldable solar panel
Daily charging with Honda EU2200i inverter generator.

We don’t use hair dryers. Maybe use the microwave occasionally. Biggest draw is for the 12v fridge, and furnace blower when running, and/or roof vent fans. We make coffee with a press.

We think we can run roof air on the Honda if we start fan only, then cool. If not we can buy an easy start.

Please help. We’re retired on fixed income, so any suggestions to save money are more than welcome.

Your comments

From what I'm seeing, most TTs will come with an 80Ah lead acid battery (so 40ah actually usable). If your current battery can only run your fridge for 3-4 hours, 200ah of lifepo4 will only give you 15-20 hours of running just the fridge, nothing else, so you'll be running your generator a lot. Even if the dealership cheaped out and gave you something like 20ah useable, you'd need a ton of solar panels to keep 200ah topped up so it'll last through the night.

Have you looked into the replacement propane/110ac units? Might be worth it if boondocking is primary focus. From what I've been reading about the MMs, its very expensive to get a setup thats big enough to keep that thing running with supplemental solar power.

Might not be ideal, but also might be the cheapest option, they make very large coolers that can keep ice for five days (all the ones you see that say seven really only do five in the reviews), but it would let you take your perishables up into the boonies for 5 days. Yeti is the popular brand, but there are other companies out there that are just as good for cheaper.

Also take this from someone who has only ordered their first TT, never actually used one This is just from all the research I've been doing. Good luck!

[Sun_Seeker]

Originally Posted by bruceb

What is your tow vehicle? Which mini do you have and what are you getting for mileage?
Thanks

2019 Dodge Grand Caravan 3.6L V-6, with Mopar O.E.M. Class 4 hitch with auto-airbag rear end. Running with a W.D.H.

2018 Winnebago Micro Mini 1706FB

At 60 mph, on flat highway, no heavy headwind---> 13.5 to 15 MPG.
Two adults, back of Grand Caravan, stow-away seats down, and packed right out. No water in Potable Tank, and no Grey or Black content.

Tires as recommended top cold-inflation PSI.

[Fred 2106DS]

Originally Posted by Marine359

Hey gang,
Need your input on this topic. We are heading south to Florida from North Carolina in January for several weeks.

We’re getting used to using our recently purchased 2108DS. The dealer outfitted it with a cheesy automotive battery which is not capable of running the 12v only fridge for more than a few hours. I thought first to replace the fridge with a two way, but we’re kinda getting used to the large size of the 12v. So, we’ve decided to upgrade the electrical system with the goal of being able to boondock for 5 or more days. We don’t want to have to run a generator for more then 2-3 hours daily to recharge battery bank.

Here’s what I’m thinking,
2 x 100ah LifePo4 batteries in parallel
Replace the stock converter with a 30 amp auto switching inverter charger.
Maybe have 100amp portable/foldable solar panel
Daily charging with Honda EU2200i inverter generator.

We don’t use hair dryers. Maybe use the microwave occasionally. Biggest draw is for the 12v fridge, and furnace blower when running, and/or roof vent fans. We make coffee with a press.

We think we can run roof air on the Honda if we start fan only, then cool. If not we can buy an easy start.

Please help. We’re retired on fixed income, so any suggestions to save money are more than welcome.

Your comments

Since I don't know what the average current draw is for your 12V only fridge and any other current draws you will have, here are my thoughts based on our experiences and setup.

1. I think you are on the right track.
2. I would suggest not worrying about the portable solar panel.
3. I would also suggest a dedicated lithium charger located close to your batteries that can be plugged into the EU2200i.

We dry camp 90% of the time in our 2016 2106DS and our current setup is 200Ah BB lithium located in pass-through, up to 400W solar (280W fixed on roof and 120W portable), a dedicated PD 45Ah lithium charger, 1000W PSW inverter, WFCO T30 transfer switch, PI EMS-HW30C surge & electrical protector, Renogy 20A DC/DC charger, Easy Start and a EU2200i.

Based on our experiences, power from our solar setup is negligible when camping since we typically pick shady sites. The times we have picked sunny sites (early Spring or late Fall) the solar has helped but the dedicated charger is the best solution for us. I’ve been thinking about increasing the size of our charger or adding a second charger ever since we added a second BB battery earlier this year. BB recommends using a charger less than or equal to one-half the capacity of your battery bank. So, we may go with a PD 80Ah charger or add a second PD 45Ah charger.

We don’t carry our portable panel anymore; it is too much trouble to keep moving it with the sun throughout the day. If you set around the campsite all day that may be okay, but that is not how our typical day is spent.

Our MM power center is the WFCO WF8955 converter charger, not sure if that is still true for the newer MMs or not. I disconnected the converter portion so it no longer charges our batteries; we rely on the dedicated PD charger instead. The PD charger is located directly over top of our 200Ah bank. It charges at a full 45 amps until it gets to 98 to 99% of charge, then tapers off for the last couple of amp hours.

We also added a WFCO T30 transfer switch to the WF8955 so we could tie both the shore power and the 1000W inverter into the MM’s AC electrical system which is protected by the PI surge & electrical protector. We can’t run the A/C off the inverter side but it allows us the make coffee and toast or breakfast sandwiches in the morning without needing to run the generator. BTW, we removed the microwave and converted that space to storage since that is what we mainly used the microwave for anyway.

We run our absorption refrigerator off AC when traveling, using both the DC/DC charger and inverter. The inverter pulls about 25Ah DC when powering the fridge. Between the 20A DC/DC charger and the 280W of solar on the roof we usually break even or make a couple amp hours when traveling. Even on days that are rainy or very overcast we don’t lose more than 5Ah/hour so we still have a good charge in our batteries when we arrive as long as they were close to full when we started out.

Fred

[Fred 2106DS]

Originally Posted by johnevans3

I have a 100 watt Renogy solar suitcase panel that has produced about 35 or so amp hours on an ideal day of sun. Charge rate of up to 6 amps. This helps recharge the two lead acid batteries that power the house. These batteries take a long time to charge up. In addition, when the generator is running, the two wet cell house batteries are being charged by the factory installed power center by WFCO. About 3 hours of generator time split between morning and evening plus solar charging keeps those batteries topped off pretty well.
In addition, I have an Ionic lithium battery and 1200 watt inverter to supply A/C power when Boondocking. To keep that battery charged, I have an 10 Amp A/C lithium battery charger connected to the generator. With 3 hours of generator time per day it has provided about 95% of what the battery would need for full charge. The lithium battery uses about 25-30 amp hours per day for tv, clock, and CPAP machine. I haven’t put any additional loads on this set up because still experimenting on how to effectively and efficiently use this set up.
Realize that these are two independent electrical systems. The house system is just like it originally came from the factory except for an additional battery that are both charged with the generator and solar panel. The lithium system is a stand alone that powers the inverter and is charged by a lithium 110v A/C charger powered by the generator. Yep, a little cumbersome but relatively cheap, non intrusive to the factory setup and I don’t have to worry about burning up an alternator when connected to my tow vehicle.
My next decision point will be about what to replace those crappy lead acid batteries with. Weight on the tongue of my micro Minnie is a big concern so big 6 v Trojans or heavy AGMs are not an option. May have to put another lithium in, change out the charger board in the power center and get a dc/dc box to protect the tow alternator. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

See my response to Marine359. We originally towed our MM with a Tacoma and had moved our lithium batteries to the pass through to protect them but also to remove some weight off the tongue. The our Tacoma was limited to 640# for tongue weight. We also use a Renogy 20A DC/DC charger while traveling to keep our batteries charged while traveling, as we run our absorption refrigerator on AC during travel.

[SandySw]

Originally Posted by Marine359

Hey gang,
Need your input on this topic. We are heading south to Florida from North Carolina in January for several weeks.

We’re getting used to using our recently purchased 2108DS. The dealer outfitted it with a cheesy automotive battery which is not capable of running the 12v only fridge for more than a few hours. I thought first to replace the fridge with a two way, but we’re kinda getting used to the large size of the 12v. So, we’ve decided to upgrade the electrical system with the goal of being able to boondock for 5 or more days. We don’t want to have to run a generator for more then 2-3 hours daily to recharge battery bank.

Here’s what I’m thinking,
2 x 100ah LifePo4 batteries in parallel
Replace the stock converter with a 30 amp auto switching inverter charger.
Maybe have 100amp portable/foldable solar panel
Daily charging with Honda EU2200i inverter generator.

We don’t use hair dryers. Maybe use the microwave occasionally. Biggest draw is for the 12v fridge, and furnace blower when running, and/or roof vent fans. We make coffee with a press.

We think we can run roof air on the Honda if we start fan only, then cool. If not we can buy an easy start.

Please help. We’re retired on fixed income, so any suggestions to save money are more than welcome.

Your comments

Any reputable RV dealer wouldn't put an automotive battery in your camper. You need to go back to the dealer and tell them to put in a deep cycle 12V Marine/RV battery. If you put 2 deep cycle batteries in parallel, you can get more amp hours.

[TroutBum1971]

has anyone changed out the speakers in these things? not a big fan of the sound. this spring I am changing the tv as well.

[Marine359]

Originally Posted by TroutBum1971

has anyone changed out the speakers in these things? not a big fan of the sound. this spring I am changing the tv as well.

Agree with you about the cheap outdoor speakers. My 1972 VW Beetle had better speakers. I’ve been using a small Bluetooth speaker that sounds much better. I’m ok with the tv, as we really don’t watch much while we’re traveling.