Micro Minnie Thread

[Bigbird65]

Originally Posted by shanghaimom

Sorry, went off the grid! I bought the Wen 2350 and m having the softstartrv installed now. Will let you know if it can start/run my 15000 BTU Dometic A/C.

Have you installed a high altitude kit on your Wen? I live at 2500' and likely will be at this or above on most trips

Thanks for your patience! Steve

Congratulations Steve on the new stuff. I'm sure the Wen gen will run your AC with the new soft start. Give us a report when you are finished. No I haven't installed a high altitude kit yet.

[Amazonica]

This may have been covered on this thread before, but I'll share my experience with upgrading my Kitchen Faucet.

I wanted a pull-out stream/sprayer and a single control handle instead of the two separate. Tired of the hot water getting too hot and wasting water to add cold. This is a 'regular' (non-RV specific) faucet that I got online for $40. Decided to get two SharkBite fittings with shutoff valves (P/N 24946 Plumbing Angle Stop). Fitting had a 1/2" for the existing PEX water lines, and a 1/2" male MIP threaded end for the connections on my faucet.
Not a low-flow faucet, as you can hear the water pump going on the rare occasion that I run it full blast, but works great. On this faucet you are able to turn the control handle to any direction. I chose forward facing the sink. It comes up a lot higher to let me get largers items into the sink for washing and filling.

Very easy to do.

"Before" photos on left, "After" on right. Last photo is Spray/Stream.

[raytwntrvlr]

New owner here.
Had a few troubles getting the propane water heater to fire. Got that figured out now.
I still haven't got the furnace to fire up. The instructions that came with the Dometic furnace show an on/off switch. I have not seen any such switch.
So my question to any owners of this same TT... Is there a switch or does the thermostat control?
BTW the TT has the capacitive touch thermostat.

TIA for any and all ideas.

[shanghaimom]

Thanks and glad to hear it works. I am in dialogue with Bill at SoftStart to get this solved. He agrees that it should work. Will let you know what happens

[Bigbird65]

Originally Posted by raytwntrvlr

New owner here.
Had a few troubles getting the propane water heater to fire. Got that figured out now.
I still haven't got the furnace to fire up. The instructions that came with the Dometic furnace show an on/off switch. I have not seen any such switch.
So my question to any owners of this same TT... Is there a switch or does the thermostat control?
BTW the TT has the capacitive touch thermostat.

TIA for any and all ideas.

Unfortunately since you have a Micro Minnie the furnace has to be removed from inside the trailer before you can get to anything. On our 2250DS the furnace is accessible from the outside and easy to work on. Here is a photo of the reset switch on mine.

[R_Lefebvre]

Finished our 3 week adventure around the Canadian Maritime provinces in August, and for the most part, things went... fairly well?

All of the off-grid equipment I installed worked really well. We did run the A/C on battery power a few times, but not a lot. I really need to get a soft starter on the A/C. Even when hooked up to shore power, the Renogy 3000W inverter would complain sometimes when the A/C started. Also, I had to reduce the battery charging while on shore power from 75A to 15A. If charging the house batteries at 75A, and then running the A/C, it was just too much.

The MaxxAir fan was an absolute lifesaver. We didn't have much need for A/C, but we did need ventilation, and without that fan, it would have been terrible. I found it really got stuff at night with 4 people sleeping in the trailer. I've never had one before, but I would never go without one again.

We did spend 4 days without shore power, or driving, and it was cloudy/rainy so little solar, and we got down to 30% battery power, trying to be reasonable about power usage (ie: didn't cook with the induction cooktop, no A/C. but did use plenty of lighting, microwave, Maxxair, fridge, and even some hair appliance usage.)

But, we had a LOT of niggly issues with the trailer itself. Many of the cabinets kept coming open while travelling. I realize this is not exclusive to Winnebago, but I really wonder why the US RV industry thinks it's reasonable to not put positive latches on these things. The worst was the drawer under the stove where we put the pots and pans. This kept on coming open, sometimes staying open. Eventually the screws holding the drawer slides ripped out of the drawers. I replaced those with longer ones, the OEM screws were too short, and flat-heads when they should be pan heads.

We had a DISASTER with the Dometic fridge. The fridge door latch was not engaging well right from delivery. I tried to fix it by shimming up the door so the latch engaged properly. It did engage now, but it's still not a great system. We hit one bump, which must have stressed the hinge, which allowed the latch to come undone, door flew open. The fridge door slammed into the bathroom door knob so hard we felt it in the truck. Stopped, and there was stuff all over the place. 12 eggs smashed on the floor, container of Tzatziki smashed and squirted all over. What a mess! We added velcro straps to hold the door closed during transit. I will be adding positive latches to the drawers/doors.

The worst though, was water leaks. Chasing them constantly. I mentioned earlier that I found the fittings to the water tank leaking after delivery. Basically, everything else leaked too. I had to go through one by one and tighten all the fittings, as one after another leaked. I spent the last half of the trip with all the panels removed in the kitchen and bathrooms, checking to see what was leaking.

The worst was I found a leak coming from the lines under/behind the fridge area and I really couldn't see exactly where it was coming from. And I'm paranoid about water leaks now because the last trailer I owned was damaged by water leaks. That almost ended our trip.

I called Coachnet/Winnebago, and it was totally useless. Best they could do was schedule me to drop the trailer off at a dealer near where we were, which was across the country from our home, and they would fix it... 3 weeks later! In effect, cancelling the trip, and then I'd have to come back like a month later to pick up the trailer and drive back across country with it to get home.

Luckily, I realized where the leak was coming from: From the shower faucet, so I pulled the faucet fixture from the wall, and sure enough, those fittings were loose.

And I still have a leak that I'm not sure where it's coming from. I found water on top of the passenger side fender liner under the counter. I think it's actually leaking from the fender, rather than another plumbing leak, as this only appeared after I towed through a big rain storm, and it's not come back since.

[Marine359]

Very sorry to hear of your misfortunes on your expedition. We just returned from a 3 week tour of coastal Maine. There were a lot of poor roads, and unpaved roads, but we really didn’t experience any of the problems you mentioned with drawers and fridge.

Maybe you already know, but we learned months ago, the hard way that you must take certain precautions. We now always check by pulling on them, if the drawers are positively latched. Sometimes some small thing can obstruct the latch or the top of the drawer, and it would fly open. Pull test solved this for us. After losing stuff flying out of the fridge, we found the key to this is to prevent stuff from impacting the inside of the fridge door. Solved by putting friction mats on each shelf, and tension bars a couple of inches above each shelf. Put only heavy stuff on the door (milk, wine, oj, bottles and cans). With nothing heavy enough to ram into the door, and stuff being restrained by mats and rods, we have this problem solved.

Did you see any puffins?
Did you go to PEI?
We couldn’t get in across the border. Maybe next year.

[R_Lefebvre]

There are no latches on the drawers or doors. Nothing. Nothing at all.

And it's impossible to say if it was something in the fridge that hit the door, or just the weight of the things in the door. And I'm not sure it matters. If the latch is secure, the door won't open no matter what hits it. And if the latch is not secure, it will open when the fridge is empty. This is how it was when I picked it up.

And are you sure you don't have water leaks? If you haven't looked behind those panels, you wouldn't know.

Edit: And IMPO, if you have to add bars to prevent things falling out, which are then a hindrance for getting things out, then the design is deficient. It's not *that* hard to make a latch that holds the door shut.

I dunno. Maybe mine was built on Superbowl Monday.

And yes, we got to PEI. No puffins though.

[Marine359]

Wow, that doesn’t sound good then.
Maybe try disassembling the latch, adjusting and reassembling. I dunno, maybe I’d just give up and install one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08LW3RQTD...VXAJZ64R7SWT4T

[R_Lefebvre]

The velcro strap fixes it, and IMO is a preferable solution to that latch. I can remove it when parked up, and then it doesn't impede access to the fridge.

Oh, and I almost forgot. Towards the end of the trip, I noticed that the sealant installed between the under-mount sink and the counter top had failed, water is seeping, causing the countertop around the sink opening to swell. This will just get worse over time, and I'm assuming it will cause the sink to fall eventually as the countertop substrate fails.

[Marine359]

It’s amazing you got such a poor build. Guessing your was built in January 2021.

[R_Lefebvre]

How can I check?

[Marine359]

You can call customer service and give your VIN#

[Micro1808]

Has anyone upgraded the faucet in the bathroom on the 1808? Its so tiny you can't get your hands under it, and it has the built in diverter to supply the shower.

Can't seem to find a normal 4 inch faucet, that can also supply the shower head.


Stupid design using the bathroom sink as the supply to the shower. Unless I can find a better part, I'm stuck.

[Foghorn]

We are considering purchasing an 1808FBS. I am currently researching the weight of the trailer. I have the dry weight and GVWR from the website.

The website doesn't state whether or not the dry weight includes the following:

• Adventure Package
• Convenience Package
• Versatility Package

We also want to order the sofa slide out option and the 190 watt solar panels.

If anybody can tell me what the dry weight with these features is; I would really appreciate it.

[Cruser711]

Does anyone have suggested comprehensive checklists for tear down/ departure, arrival/setup and other events ? Being new to TT I have started working on them but would like some ideas from everyone.

[SactoSteve]

Originally Posted by caladvoc8

Having trouble finding any online information revealing hitch height of our 2019 2106DS TT with Explorer Pkg. We are unable to get access to our trailer at the moment because our storage facility to remain closed for a bit longer due to local pandemic rules. We need to purchase new ball mount unit for our newly acquired SUV tow vehicle and stumped as to drop/rise needed without crucial hitch height measurement of trailer. We need the distance in inches from ground to bottom edge of trailer hitch coupler when trailer is on level ground. Anybody possibly help us out?

Hello-
Did you ever find a source for hitch height?
I am trying to get ready for a 2022 2108DS and need to figure out the rise height for a new ball mount.
I thought I had seen 22" in a post but can't relocate it.
Seems crazy hitch isn't a standard spec listing?
any help appreciated.

Steve

[Marine359]

Originally Posted by SactoSteve

Hello-
Did you ever find a source for hitch height?
I am trying to get ready for a 2022 2108DS and need to figure out the rise height for a new ball mount.
I thought I had seen 22" in a post but can't relocate it.
Seems crazy hitch isn't a standard spec listing?
any help appreciated.

Steve

Could be because Micro Minis have 3 different axle height positions, so hitch height will be different depending on which position you choose.

[SactoSteve]

Originally Posted by Marine359

Could be because Micro Minis have 3 different axle height positions, so hitch height will be different depending on which position you choose.

Ahh, thank you. That makes perfect sense, but also seems like something I should have known. I guess we just have to wait to see what axle height is when it arrives? I assume there is a “common” factory build setting.
Thanks again.
-steve

[Marine359]

Explorer package comes with 15” tires and axles mounted so that chassis height is maximized for off-road clearance. Haven’t measured mine but explorer will have the highest hitch height.