rear bumper removal 2021 2108DS

jimroxstone · 05-18-2021, 06:44 PM

How do you remove the rear bumper on a 2021 2108DS? It has carriage type bolts, and round type nuts facing out.

R_Lefebvre · 05-20-2021, 08:43 AM

Weird. Is that a security feature to prevent people from swapping out the rear bumper to something more robust?

On my Apex, it was welded, so yeah, nearly impossible to swap out without being noticeable.

Anyway, I presume those nuts were installed with a special tool that can grip them. Might be able to do it with super vice-grips? Otherwise, welding something to the nut could work, but isn't an easy option.

jimroxstone · 05-20-2021, 09:06 AM

Was thinking about the vice grip, but was wondering if there was a trick to this. There's no room to get to the head of the bolt either if they fall inside the frame rail. Be a little tricky. I have a fabricator welder friend that's helping me design a bumper with two welded in receivers in a 2x4 box tube bumper. I have a aluminum cargo carrier I'm going to mount.

R_Lefebvre · 05-20-2021, 09:15 AM

Nice. Keep me posted.

On my Apex, I welded some 1" tubing to the frame rails, then under the bumper to support it. Used a bike rack, and I think one time I had a 200lb motorcycle on there.

On the MM, I'd like to just have something that can support a little more weight (not a motorycle, maybe just a storage box) but more importantly I would like a bumper system that can protect the body more if I hit something backing up. Even to include some of the rear corners of the body above the bumper, possibly.

backtrack15 · 05-20-2021, 11:05 AM

I believe those are probably huck bolts like the rest of the frame connections. You might search for huck bolt removal techniques.

jimroxstone · 05-20-2021, 12:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by backtrack15

I believe those are probably huck bolts like the rest of the frame connections. You might search for huck bolt removal techniques.

Thanks, researched that, didn't know what they were called. They seem to be a specialized fastener, better I guess. Not great for a DIY'er. Guess plan A is cutting off at the weld and building from there. Will get rid of that tin can bumper and put something back there that you can actually carry a little weight on, safely.

backtrack15 · 05-20-2021, 12:27 PM

Sounds good. I don’t have the payload capacity for that kind of project, but luckily everything fits elsewhere.

Marine359 · 05-21-2021, 12:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jimroxstone

Will get rid of that tin can bumper and put something back there that you can actually carry a little weight on, safely.

Are you planning to add weight to the tongue to balance the added bumper weight? MM low tongue weight makes them more sensitive to balance changes than most TTs. Some heavy stuff in the pass thru helps too. IDK what the correct distribution outta be for your new upgrade. Some folks have moved the spare tire to the tongue.

R_Lefebvre · 05-21-2021, 02:14 PM

Ok, I had to look up this huck bolting thing. Never seen that before.

It's probably unlikely you can actually remove those things. Not easily anyway.

I've seen it claimed they are stronger than normal bolts. But I have a hard time believing that. Maybe better than a Grade 5. Probably not better than 8 or 12.9.

jimroxstone · 05-21-2021, 04:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Marine359

Are you planning to add weight to the tongue to balance the added bumper weight? MM low tongue weight makes them more sensitive to balance changes than most TTs. Some heavy stuff in the pass thru helps too. IDK what the correct distribution outta be for your new upgrade. Some folks have moved the spare tire to the tongue.

My plan is to hit a CAT scale and go from there.

jimroxstone · 05-21-2021, 04:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by R_Lefebvre

Ok, I had to look up this huck bolting thing. Never seen that before.

It's probably unlikely you can actually remove those things. Not easily anyway.

I've seen it claimed they are stronger than normal bolts. But I have a hard time believing that. Maybe better than a Grade 5. Probably not better than 8 or 12.9.

It's not going to be necessary to remove them. We're just going to cut the bumper off at the weld and build on that plate.

09 harley · 05-23-2021, 05:25 PM

Why not take a 4” grinder and grind off the heads. Should be simple. Use grade 8 when remounting. The factory obviously used the to prevent the very modification you are thinking about. They don’t want their customers to put on a new bumper or other carrier that will overload the frame. These rigs are built cheaply and they worry about exactly these types of modifications. Be sure the frame can support what you want to carry. As an example some 5th wheels can carry light loads on the rear bumper and some are designed to be able to carry a Gold Wing. Guess which one costs more?

backtrack15 · 05-23-2021, 07:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 09 harley

Why not take a 4” grinder and grind off the heads. Should be simple. Use grade 8 when remounting. The factory obviously used the to prevent the very modification you are thinking about. They don’t want their customers to put on a new bumper or other carrier that will overload the frame. These rigs are built cheaply and they worry about exactly these types of modifications. Be sure the frame can support what you want to carry. As an example some 5th wheels can carry light loads on the rear bumper and some are designed to be able to carry a Gold Wing. Guess which one costs more?

The factory uses frames built by BAL, which are assembled using huck bolts instead of welds at most of the frame cross-members. I really think the bumper attachment was just a matter of convenience for BAL. I doubt Winnebago cares about customer mods... you void your own structural warranty right out of the gate and they're off the hook.

Andy_XY · 05-23-2021, 08:33 PM

If you own air compressor go to HF and buy an air chisel. All you need to do is chisel off the aluminum fastener also called the ‘Huck collar’. Just cut down each side and it will fall right off push the bolt out backside. . Or use a torch. Keep a water hose close lol

09 harley · 05-24-2021, 01:52 PM

You don’t need to buy anything. You must know someone who has a 4” grinder. If not rent one. You could damage your frame with a torch. The heat will weaken the area you need to work on.

R_Lefebvre · 05-31-2021, 09:29 AM

Is the Huck collar actually aluminum? Wow.

bbelsher · 08-09-2022, 12:04 PM

The bolts and nuts just reversed for me. Also the black tank is only about an inch away from either frame rail. I think I am going to grind the bolts on the outside. Add a 1x3x24” tube and attach the new and improved 3/16x4x82” bumper via 4 brackets that I had laser cut. I will try and post finished pic.

bbelsher · 09-12-2022, 09:19 AM

Work in progress...old bumper off along with corner bracket. I drilled the bolts out until my drill bits were dull...then moved to a grinder. It took a while to get the six bolts from each side off. Four for the bumper and two for the support brackets. All material is 3/16in thick. I created a 2" crumple zone in case I get hit from the rear...praying that does not happen! Next step is to drill out the rectangle tubes for bolts and allow for a socket to go through to the bolts. Then test fit, finish welding brackets to bumper and brackets to rectangle tubing. I will have a full 12" of rectangle tubing attached to the frame rail of the trailer with 6 bolts...hoping that should be enough. The rectangle tube will go all the way to the mounting bracket for the stabilizers. Once all is welded off to get powder coated a bright orange...just kidding going with black! Second thought maybe I should do bright orange...humm! I am hoping I have enough room between the black tank and frame rail to get a wrench on the bolts!

Bcborn · 10-07-2022, 06:13 PM

Love to see your finished project, how are re installing the body support that was removed as well?

bbelsher · 01-01-2023, 11:22 AM

Finally installed the bumper on the trailer. Still have a lot to do before I call it done. Had to cut a notch out of the back support in order to access the bolts for attachment. So…now have to engineer a bracket to bridge the gap. The side brackets still need to be welded and attached for supporting the corner of the trailer…not sure they are needed but will put them back anyway. This is a test fit and run. I will be pulling it back off for adding end cap covers, holes for trailer wiring, and to get the whole thing powder coated in black.