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Old 07-19-2023, 06:58 PM   #1
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Tacoma and 2100BH compatibility?

I’m a newbie about to purchase a 2023 2100BH Mini Winnie.

I have a 2023 Toyota Tacoma that appears to have the capacity to tow the 2100BH, but I need some expert opinion on if my truck can safely pull it (outside the RV dealer) before I pull the trigger.

The Tacoma has a 6400 lb towing capacity, 5600 GVWR, 4445 lb curb weight, 640 lb tongue weight.

The 2100BH specs are showing 5500 GVWR, 4049 lb dry weight, 448 lb dry hitch weight.

I’ve never done these calculations. Are my vehicle and this 2100BH mini Winnie safe and compatible? Any help would be greatly appreciated before I make a big purchase.

Thanks.
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Old 07-19-2023, 07:25 PM   #2
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Note these numbers on the label inside the Tacoma driver side door jamb.
GVWR
Front GAWR
Rear GAWR
Payload, or Cargo Carry Capacity (CCC)

These are the numbers you should not exceed.
With a mid-size pickup, you’re most likely to exceed Rear GAWR and CCC
Although Toyota website says payload is between 1,065 and 1,685lbs
The higher the level of trim the lower the CCC will be.
There are members of the forum towing with Tacomas, BUT

Dry hitch weight doesn’t have much meaning. Your actual wet weight will be close to 600#.
Your actual wet trailer weight will approach 4,700# with full fresh water.
You must subtract wet tongue weight and subtract another 100# for hitch from CCC. The remainder is how much weight you can carry in the truck. Since you want bunk beds, it hints that you may be traveling with kids and pets. That’s a formula for a bunch of weight in the tow vehicle.

There may be Tacoma owners who will disagree, but IMHO, the 2100bh plus your likely load of kids and gear will exceed the Tacoma CCC, and possibly it’s GVWR. Advise you run the numbers before you buy the trailer. Take your Tacoma to a CAT scale and weigh it with nothing in it but the driver and full tank of gas. Then weigh everything you’ll put into the truck on a camping trip. You may get a surprise.
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Old 07-20-2023, 04:16 AM   #3
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Never a good idea to be so close to the maximum that the drive train is rated to pull. Expect to be up at 3500 rpm a lot especially going up hills. The rig will be fine in town or on slow roads but high speed on the highway the way say a 5.7 ltr or even the newer high torque 6 cylinder rigs run down the road with trailers is not going to be an option. 265 foot pounds of torque is adequate but just for your needs. With the six speed transmission in a tow haul setup mode expect it to be in the lower gears much more than trucks with closer to 300 ft lbs of torque. Horse power means less than torque especially when it comes to towing. All though the ridiculous torque rating of the Ford ecoboost is 500 ft lbs I am a little skeptical because when I have driven them the power band is not the same and they do seem a little wimpy at low RPM where the Tacoma 3.5 seems to shine.

The Tacoma will indeed pull it well even without a WD hitch but a WD hitch is a very good idea especially in the rain where swails in the road will inevitably take too much weight off the steering axle. So I would not run it without a WD unless you are just moving it around short distances. WD hitches do make a difference in turning radius and to park it in some places one needs to take off the bars to be able to jack knife the trailer to spot it, especially in spots where it is absolutely necessary to jack knife the rig to spot it while going over uneven ground.

The other consideration is if the Toyota has a long maintenance cycle then increase the frequency of service if you put the drive train under strain that is close to the limit of the rig and you pull the trailer frequently.

Our tow vehicles have the transmissions serviced ahead of the recommended service interval and our SUV have had a second coolant flush including antifreeze changes as well as transmission fluid and filter done when we bought it used well ahead of the recommended service interval for the transmission and cooling system. Next year out 4.8 ltr GMC Sierra will have a water pump changed regardless of how the engine is behaving. I already had the 4l60e transmission rebuilt before it really needed it because the truck has 130,000 miles on it and the transmission was shifting a little high between 2 and 3. Mind you the previous owner had towed a heavy 4000 lb boat with the pickup for a lot of years so the truck needed work so we got it cheap.

Cooling is even more crucial when hauling heavy loads up near the maximum capacity of the tow vehicle. If there are signs of strain on the drive train then pay close attention to any changes in cooling behavior and especially shift patterns if the Toyota is an automatic.

Tacoma's are great little trucks and the engines are known for great reliability but they can easily be over loaded and prematurely wear the transmission and running gear just like any other small pickup when towing heavy loads.

I certainly would not exceed 60 mph with the rig because the braking capacity of the truck is no where near as great as a full half ton with more drive train and engine braking capacity. If the trailer brakes wear prematurely because of the lower engine braking profile of the rig it simply means that the tow vehicle is not the best choice. If you find that you need to ride the brakes too much on long down hills and that shifting down does not slow the rig enough then be prepared for extra maintenance on the trucks brakes and the trailers brakes. The ability to use the engine and transmission for braking purposes is crucial to extending the life of the trailer and tow vehicle brakes. But the price is some extra heat on the transmission that must be cooled very efficiently. The engine will cool going down hill even under a braking load because it will be pulling in more air at higher and not burning gas, but this also means the gears and fluid coupling on the transmission will be heating more. If the transmission does not cool down while engine braking then the transmission cooler system needs to be checked. There was a very common problem with some Nissan 4 ltr v6s and overheating of the transmission cooling line leading to radiator failures. A factory defect that caused many issues for the unsuspecting owners, especially the ones that pulled trailers.

It is always a good idea to test out a rig with a heat gun to see if there are problems at all when towing especially with transmissions overheating.

I have not heard of Tacomas with the same issue but I have heard of the diesel equivalent from Japan to Tacomas having transmission and engine cooling issues.

What I see most often with small pickups pulling close to the maximum load is the brake lights going on far too much going down mountain slopes or worse in traffic not anticipating light changes and not using the engine to slow the rig enough of the time.

Best to make certain that the Tacoma is in top shape and has no drive train issues and the brakes especially are in top condition and you should be fine with the rig. Just expect to be passed on the highway by all the 5.7 dodge hemis and 6 ltr GMs.

But not to worry you will catch them up because you can bet they will be stopping for gas much more frequently than your rig if you drive at no more than 60 mph.
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Old 07-20-2023, 05:43 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reeman View Post
All though the ridiculous torque rating of the Ford ecoboost is 500 ft lbs I am a little skeptical because when I have driven them the power band is not the same and they do seem a little wimpy at low RPM where the Tacoma 3.5 seems to shine.
I have a late model Ford EcoBoost with the 10 speed. Combined with Tow mode, I feel it finds the correct range and pulls uphill very well. Downhill braking is also effortless. MPG is another story...
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Old 07-20-2023, 02:41 PM   #5
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We have that exact trailer and in my opinion, towing capacity isn’t the problem, it is vehicle payload capacity.

We have:
650# of people and a dog
600# of hitch weight (upgraded bed and items in pass thru which add up quick)
150# in/on bed of truck (tonneau cover, firewood, bikes etc.
Total of 1400#

We have a 23’ Ram 1500 with a 1525# payload and we can definitely feel the effects of almost maxing out payload. Borderline sketchy, and I wouldn’t want to tow with a vehicle with less payload capacity (just my opinion) if you take into account the need for accident avoidance. Everyone wants to pass trailers and we’ve had to swerve, slam on brakes etc… with some close calls. Also, we have a 400hp Hemi and towing up steep hills the engine has to rev to 4k, so I think you’d want at least 300hp in a lighter truck towing that trailer, but again, just my personal opinion.
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Old 07-20-2023, 10:10 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by newguy123 View Post
I’m a newbie about to purchase a 2023 2100BH Mini Winnie.
So sorry to mention this, but you are not about to purchase a “2023 2100BH Mini Winnie.”

You are about to purchase a 2023 Micro Minnie 2100BH. This is a travel trailer. There is no “ Mini Winnie” product available but there is a Minnie Winnie… which is a Class C motorhome.

It may seem like tomato/tomato to you, but it’s really important to understand what you are buying and what it is called. So, right upfront start calling your new t r a v e l t r a i l e r by it real name it a Micro Minnie. And it doesn’t have an engine and it’s not a motorhome.
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Old 07-21-2023, 09:36 AM   #7
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We have a 2022 1708FB that is about 6-7 hundred-lbs lighter than a 2100BH. We pull with a heavily modified 2012 Tacoma (4.0l V6). The Tacoma is re-geard at 4.56, not supercharged and dyno’d at 285HP here in Denver. At Colorado’s altitude I’m really maxed out with the Tacoma pulling long haul in 4th at 3k RPM (65mph). Uphill is completely another story – working hard in the right lane typically at 40 mph. Granted I do have the trailer loaded to max at 5000-5100 lbs (Water tank full, food, gear, cloths, food – everything) & right at 500-lbs on the hitch. I have pulled with the trailer near empty and really don’t feel much difference. I guess the real point here is you’ll be at the limits pulling a 2100BH with a Tacoma – just don’t get in too much of a hurry and be patient with the truck's abilities.

We’ll be pulling our trailer to Harrisburg PA next month. I’m anxious to see the performance and gas mileage pulling at lower altitudes.
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Old 07-23-2023, 06:18 PM   #8
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Hey all, appreciate all the detailed info and no nonsense feedback. We decided to step away from the deal we had and reassess, focusing on lighter trailers. Thanks to you and this community for helping me and my family out.
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Old 07-24-2023, 01:16 PM   #9
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It's a VERY FINE LINE towing with a Tacoma as I do.

As mentioned above the three key elements that I adhere to:

GAWR (R) 3285 lbs Max
CCC 1000 lbs Max
GVWR 5610 lbs Max

My 2018 Double cab 4 x 4 Short Box weights 5069 Lbs with Canopy and Occupants (No Gear). With a Canopy, I cannot place gear in the box of the truck, it must sit above the axles in the trailer or in the bath area.

The tongue weight of my 2106FBS is 660 lbs unequalized and has an axle weight of 4540 for a total of 5200 lbs (loaded no water). 12.7% tongue weight

The GVWR of my Tacoma (equalized) is 5590

I pull an 8.5% grade to get to most of our camp spots and the Tacoma Revs between 3800 - 5000 RPM at 98 - 100 KPH.

I'm comfortable with how it tows our 2106FBS Micro Minnie, Would a few more pounds of cargo capacity be nice, absolutely. Can I tweak the way I load the trailer to reduce the tongue weight to 11 - 12%, yes.

We tow 5 -7 times per year between July and Sept. Doesn't make sense to upgrade tow vehicle for 200 - 400 lbs more payload.

Removing my Leer Canopy and going with a tonneau would create room for some cargo in the box if need be. Or going with no box cover would be most effective.
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