Bought our 2017 Micro Minnie 2106FBS from a private sale in March. Looked to be a great buy, un be told their was lots of work to be done to get it back in pristine shape.
I reported early on in the forum their was some water stains at the base of the wall in the bathroom. First thought it was from a wet towel left on the floor or as some reported a loose drain fitting under shower stall.
Filled the water tank to test for leaks and proper operation yesterday in prep for first outing next weekend. Pump wouldn't pressurize the system. Not sure if it's a bad pump suction or return leak
So I hooked up the house water hose. I had water coming out under the toilet valve crack in toilet valve). I had water coming out from under the TV cabinet (loose fittings on outside shower).
Off to the RV store to buy a new toilet valve for our Dometic 300 toilet. I have read these have been a typical problem. In replacing the valve some say stay Genuine Dometic parts. Comments here please.
Next is to tackle the loose fittings on the outside shower. First off I'm going to replace all the Flair-it seals on all taps. Hass anyone had experience with the black tap nuts coming loose and what's the fix?
Next if the pump is not pulling water from the holding tank,aerated water constantly from tarps, (no leak at pump fitting tight), where does one start to look for source of problem?
For your pump problem, be sure that your tank fill valve is in the normal position and not the fill position. If left in the fill position, the pump tries to fill the tank from the tank, resulting in constantly running pump and low pressure or iratic flow at a faucet.
For your pump problem, be sure that your tank fill valve is in the normal position and not the fill position. If left in the fill position, the pump tries to fill the tank from the tank, resulting in constantly running pump and low pressure or iratic flow at a faucet.
Charlie, I don’t think travel trailers have tank fill valves. They usually have a gravity fill and a separate city water connection. TTs don’t have wet bay compartments, etc. All water connections are on the sidewall of the trailer.
Some 5th Wheel towables have a wet bay with water connections but I’ve never seen one on a “bumper pull” travel trailer.
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2017 Winnebago Adventurer 37F
2016 Lincoln MKX Toad
Since we get so little in the way of drawings for the trailers, there is no good way to plan for checking in a logical way but there are some common things you may need to look over and try to think through.
Harder to do when you don't know which pipe goes where!
The fill/normal valve is often a problem as mentioned.
Look at the valve some have which lets you switch from sucking antifreeze to normal. This is often right at the water pump?
Verify that it is set to pass water from the tank through the pump, not left partway to suck air in the suction hose. It is a good idea to have the cap on the end as a double safety on this point.
Verify that the little plastic filter at the water pump is not cracked as they break really easy as they are thin as eggshells on some. Verify the screen is moderately clean as a dirty filter can shut down water flow. I find a vinegar soak is good for removing the hard water deposits from the filter screen.
The broken items kind of make one jump to poor job of winter prep, so be alert to that as possible. One of the problems with freeze is that it often happens at fittings as they tend to have low spots in them where water may be left. Those fittings are also a bit more brittle than the lines but that can be a problem making it harder to spot as they may only crack in small ways rather than a full blown break. Those small points are hard to spot since they are also hidden way back under something.
One way to help spot those tiny leaks is to use something like toilet tissue to wipe around fittings and things to check as it will work on the back side where you can't see and also a tiny amount of water will change the appearance of the tissue, even when the leak is too small for you to spot.
Paper slid back under things like the cabinets can work as a way to "trace" where water may start as paper can lay there out of the way for a few trips and then you can check for the small leaks you may have?
For plastic, I've found the temperature changes tend to make plastic fittings come loose as they expand/contract more than metal. When dealing with thingslike plastictraps, I automatically add a bit of silicone caulk as I put them back together as it will go together well, set up and hold the fitting from turning but it is no problem to get them loose when needed.
Do give the caulk lots of time to set up before running water as it washes off when wet and takes much longer to set when not exposed to much air.
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Richard
Why no RV year, make and floorplan on MY signature as we suggest for others?
I currently DO NOT have one!
The water pump for 210x models is under the sink, hidden under a luan panel. The pump will definitely suck air if the winterizing hose valve is even a tiny bit open, or failed. System will not fully pressurize, or the pump will go on and off if there are any leaks in the system. Check to make sure your outside shower is off and not leaking at either valve. Check to make sure water heater drain plug is not leaking. [don’t be offended I mention this, as I have been guilty of not checking those] IMHO, it’s way better to replace the Dometic 300 with a Dometic 310. The 310 is a far better and more comfortable toilet in every way, and it’s not prone to breakage like the 300. New 310 on Amazon not too much more than replacing valves on the 300. Oh, and once you replace the valves expect the 300 base to crack and leak stinky water all over your Micro Mini.
Since the fresh water tank is gravity fill, what may seem to be fresh water tank leaks may be traced to the city water hookup. If there is evidence of water leaks in bathroom, You may want to replace the hose clamp on the inside of the fill.
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Jim. Former, 2021b Micro Minnie 2108DS
Boondocking again. Now with a full-electric Tune M1 on a F150. No commercial campgrounds allowed.
Have access to pump, will examine all fitting attached today.
Not sure if the city water fill (hose clamp) was the culprit or the nut on back of outside shower. Both in same area and I can't pressure test till the leak at the toilet is fixed.
Will the 310 actually fit in the 210x as it's mounting to wall is 1/2" longer than the 300 if I'm not mistaken.
The Therford VI might be an option.as they have a short unit.
310 is a perfect fit, drop in replacement. I don’t think your clearances will be any different than mine.
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Jim. Former, 2021b Micro Minnie 2108DS
Boondocking again. Now with a full-electric Tune M1 on a F150. No commercial campgrounds allowed.
No changes to seal or floor.
I went full height.
Sprayer wand an added cost option. Well worth it.
I don’t remember the distance flange to wall, but it was only 1/2” difference from the model 300 I removed. I’ll go out and measure when I get a chance. Just presuming here that your measure will be same as mine.
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Jim. Former, 2021b Micro Minnie 2108DS
Boondocking again. Now with a full-electric Tune M1 on a F150. No commercial campgrounds allowed.
Was in my local RV Dealer today and they didn't have the 310 in Bone which my 2017 is.
They had stock on the White and one thing I did notice is that the box had 320 Series as part of the labeling on the box. I didn't take a close enough look to see if the bowl shape is like the new 300/320 (less elongated) or the old 300 (more like a cone bowl).
I replaced our 300 with a 320 a few years ago. I had about a 1/4" to spare to the rear wall.
According to rough in dimensions listed by Dometic, the 300 needs 8 1/2" between the backwall and flange bolts. The 310 needs 10" and the 320 needs 11".
__________________ 2016 Winnebago Micro Minnie 2106DS, 200Ah BB, 400w rooftop & 500w front cap solar 2020 Tundra SR5 DLCB TRD Off Road, 5.7L V8 w/6.5' bed & 38 gal. tank, 4.30 axle ratio
Blue Ox Sway Pro w/750# bars, wired RVS rear view camera, Renogy 20A DC/DC charger
I replaced our 300 with a 320 a few years ago. I had about a 1/4" to spare to the rear wall.
According to rough in dimensions listed by Dometic, the 300 needs 8 1/2" between the backwall and flange bolts. The 310 needs 10" and the 320 needs 11".
Thanks Fred, good to hear the 320 fits and that the 310 fits as reported by Jim.
I have 10 7/8 on one side and 11" on the other.
Got my pump suction issues solved, the filter basket assembly was loose where it threaded to the pump inlet.
I tightened the black 90 deg pex swivel fittings on the inside and outside shower valves and with the pump pressure I have no leaks.
I have to get a RV pressure regulator to test my city water connection for leaks. It too I was able to tighten slightly.
Those plastic 90 pex fittings seem so fragile and the Flair-it seal inside them are no that much better. I almost want to switch out those as they are hidden and cannot be viewed regularly.
Thanks Fred, good to hear the 320 fits and that the 310 fits as reported by Jim.
I have 10 7/8 on one side and 11" on the other.
Got my pump suction issues solved, the filter basket assembly was loose where it threaded to the pump inlet.
I tightened the black 90 deg pex swivel fittings on the inside and outside shower valves and with the pump pressure I have no leaks.
I have to get a RV pressure regulator to test my city water connection for leaks. It too I was able to tighten slightly.
Those plastic 90 pex fittings seem so fragile and the Flair-it seal inside them are no that much better. I almost want to switch out those as they are hidden and cannot be viewed regularly.
Call me crazy, but we never use the city water connection, even if we have water on site. By using only the fresh water tank and pump, if we acquire a leak in the system, we'll hear the pump cycle intermittently letting us know early on there's an issue. If using the city water connection, we may not know there's a issue until we see free flowing water.
__________________ 2016 Winnebago Micro Minnie 2106DS, 200Ah BB, 400w rooftop & 500w front cap solar 2020 Tundra SR5 DLCB TRD Off Road, 5.7L V8 w/6.5' bed & 38 gal. tank, 4.30 axle ratio
Blue Ox Sway Pro w/750# bars, wired RVS rear view camera, Renogy 20A DC/DC charger
By using only the fresh water tank and pump, if we acquire a leak in the system, we'll hear the pump cycle intermittently letting us know early on there's an issue.
Totally agree, I have to address a OEM leak (detected by toilet paper) where the kitchen sink line goes from vertical to horizontal. The pump cycles once, so I knew something was up. The only other sign was the wheel well tin discolored.
I will have to see if I can crimp the stainless connector slightly tighter or replace the crimp.
All these things you find when you look. We haven't even been out camping in it yet to see what else comes up.
I suggest some care when using the pump as an indicator of leaks as it is not a perfect system and you may find yourself chasing phantoms!
Looking at how the pressure on the pump works, you may find that it relies on several things that are made of some form of "rubber" type material. The big one is the pump diaphragm but then there are also check valves of plastic with small springs and the one at the water fill port is one which is definitely suspect as it can easily be flipped on edge to leak air.
That leaves the pressure depending on all those small plastic/rubber parts to seal totally, and they DON'T so you will often get a varied amount of pump running, given enough time. Many of us shut the pump off at night so it doesn't come on to wake us but we also do not have water leaks, just air/water slipping past the various parts.
The older the RV, the more the seals become brittle and leaky.
So do you really want to start out not having the convenience of free running water with
good pressure just to avoid the chance of leaks and then still wind up chasing phantom leaks that yu can't find at some point in the future?
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Richard
Why no RV year, make and floorplan on MY signature as we suggest for others?
I currently DO NOT have one!
I suggest some care when using the pump as an indicator of leaks as it is not a perfect system and you may find yourself chasing phantoms!
Looking at how the pressure on the pump works, you may find that it relies on several things that are made of some form of "rubber" type material. The big one is the pump diaphragm but then there are also check valves of plastic with small springs and the one at the water fill port is one which is definitely suspect as it can easily be flipped on edge to leak air.
That leaves the pressure depending on all those small plastic/rubber parts to seal totally, and they DON'T so you will often get a varied amount of pump running, given enough time. Many of us shut the pump off at night so it doesn't come on to wake us but we also do not have water leaks, just air/water slipping past the various parts.
The older the RV, the more the seals become brittle and leaky.
So do you really want to start out not having the convenience of free running water with
good pressure just to avoid the chance of leaks and then still wind up chasing phantom leaks that yu can't find at some point in the future?
Richard thanks for your insight.
My thoughts are, since the water line runs in a Micro Minnie are fairly short, if the pump cycles intermittently there isn't that many possibilities of what the issue could be.
In my specific case, I've also installed an accumulator tank to quiet the pump (highly recommended). This also acts as a buffer for the pump, so if my pump is intermittently cycling, there's a good chance I have a real issue.
Besides, my personality wouldn't allow me, not to mention my wife, to put up with an intermittently cycling water pump; I would have to chase down the issue(s), real or not, no matter how long it took!
__________________ 2016 Winnebago Micro Minnie 2106DS, 200Ah BB, 400w rooftop & 500w front cap solar 2020 Tundra SR5 DLCB TRD Off Road, 5.7L V8 w/6.5' bed & 38 gal. tank, 4.30 axle ratio
Blue Ox Sway Pro w/750# bars, wired RVS rear view camera, Renogy 20A DC/DC charger
I'm changing out the outside shower and inside shower swivels as well as the swivel on the city water hookup to better quality units. On assembly I put a dab of plumbers putty on the thread to secure the nut from shaking loose.
Here are the three from the outside of the trailer, you will notice the amount of elbow extending out the back of the nut in each case. This means it would take more or less nut threaded onto the tap. The first with the most out the rear of the nut, means their is very little material holding the white elbow to the black nut.
Shower last of the hidden fittings to be replaced (tomorrows job).
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