Dually valve extender questions

[tetranz]

Now that I'm able to take my simulators off, I still need to figure out what I need to do to install the TireMinder Smart TPMS. Either that or decide it's not worth the trouble and I should return it.

My inner duallys have braided extenders. One of them is blocked. At first I thought the tire had no air in it but when I tried to add some air it was obviously blocked / stuck closed. Now with the simulators off, I've removed the extender and can check the pressure and it's fine.

I've read a lot of threads saying that the braided extenders are not much good but I'm still a little confused about what I should get to hopefully install the TPMS. On both sides, the extender was not clipped. The clip was just spinning free.

I've seen lots of comments about the complication and need for an extender on an inner dually which makes sense but I need one on my outer tire too. That's because the valve stem on the outer tire points inwards. I can check the pressure with the AstroAI guage which has a double angled head but it will be next to impossible to install transmitters and mess around when the tire needs air.

I think I need something like these for the outer tires but open to suggestions. https://www.amazon.com/Pacific-Duali.../dp/B002L9J0ZY

Thanks for any advice in what I should get / do to hopefully install the TPMS.

Images
1 Outer dually valve.
2 Inner dually valve.
3 Faulty extender from inner dually.
4 Both front tires have one of these. What is it? Is it an adapter between sizes?

[Wyatt]

Originally Posted by tetranz

Now that I'm able to take my simulators off, I still need to figure out what I need to do to install the TireMinder Smart TPMS. Either that or decide it's not worth the trouble and I should return it.

My inner duallys have braided extenders. One of them is blocked. At first I thought the tire had no air in it but when I tried to add some air it was obviously blocked / stuck closed. Now with the simulators off, I've removed the extender and can check the pressure and it's fine.

I've read a lot of threads saying that the braided extenders are not much good but I'm still a little confused about what I should get to hopefully install the TPMS. On both sides, the extender was not clipped. The clip was just spinning free.

I've seen lots of comments about the complication and need for an extender on an inner dually which makes sense but I need one on my outer tire too. That's because the valve stem on the outer tire points inwards. I can check the pressure with the AstroAI guage which has a double angled head but it will be next to impossible to install transmitters and mess around when the tire needs air.

I think I need something like these for the outer tires but open to suggestions. https://www.amazon.com/Pacific-Duali.../dp/B002L9J0ZY

Thanks for any advice in what I should get / do to hopefully install the TPMS.

Images
1 Outer dually valve.
2 Inner dually valve.
3 Faulty extender from inner dually.
4 Both front tires have one of these. What is it? Is it an adapter between sizes?

I use the TireMinder for all six tires, and for my front and outside rear, to get a better angle filling with air, I employed these. Added some gas line yellow tape and they all work fine.

Also, have the braided inner rear extensions. I haven’t seen the issue that you are.

[1237dmctlc]

Originally Posted by Wyatt

I use the TireMinder for all six tires, and for my front and outside rear, to get a better angle filling with air, I employed these. Added some gas line yellow tape and they all work fine.

Also, have the braided inner rear extensions. I haven’t seen the issue that you are.

I'd tried those angle extensions on my previous Class A gasser and had constant loss of pressure even though I tightened them and checked them for leaks when I installed them. My theory is that the oscillate while your driving down the road and if it's unsupported it will eventually cause leaks. I'm trying to decided what to use on my inside dually tires so I can install my TPMS's. I tried an extension with the stabilizer like Freightliner suggests only to have the rubber stabilizer fall out of the rims and when I discovered it during a check during a trip found both TPMS's had a worn edge. Next step if to try what my friend has on his rig which has the braided extension mounted out the lug cap to stabilize it.

[Morich]

I tried a number of different shaped solid extenders and found none which would bend and fit what I had, so went with braid as i saw them on trucks, but to make it better, I wanted the heavy weight of the sensor tied down good and solid.
That meant an "el" of metal pop riveted to the wheel sim.
It can be made of a short section of aluminum angle stock if you don't mind the time spent to make it look okay but I found that more fun than the hunting and shopping to get the shape! Two extenders came with the angle but two got DIY.

[BobC]

The best, but more expensive, solution is to skip "valve extensions" and have "extended valve stems" installed. These are rigid, metal extensions similar to those in your photo but, instead of screwing on to your existing valve stems, they replace your existing valve stems. Since there's no screw-on joint, they're more secure and less prone to failure.

This means the wheels need to be removed and the tire. The tire bead then needs to be dismounted in the area of the valve stem so the new, extended valve stems can be installed. The best time to do this is when you're getting new tires installed, although I've seen some threads where posters have had this done for about $25 - $30/tire, plus the cost of the new valve stem.

Borg makes good quality extended valve stems: https://yourtireshopsupply.com/manuf...borg-equipment

[1237dmctlc]

Originally Posted by BobC

The best, but more expensive, solution is to skip "valve extensions" and have "extended valve stems" installed. These are rigid, metal extensions similar to those in your photo but, instead of screwing on to your existing valve stems, they replace your existing valve stems. Since there's no screw-on joint, they're more secure and less prone to failure.

This means the wheels need to be removed and the tire. The tire bead then needs to be dismounted in the area of the valve stem so the new, extended valve stems can be installed. The best time to do this is when you're getting new tires installed, although I've seen some threads where posters have had this done for about $25 - $30/tire, plus the cost of the new valve stem.

Borg makes good quality extended valve stems: https://yourtireshopsupply.com/manuf...borg-equipment

Well that seems like a great solution and though I'm a few years away from needing new tires I'm going to keep that in mine. It's a small price to pay for convenience like that . Can I ask how do you determine what to buy that will fit and make it out through the outside tire ?
Thxs

[BobC]

Originally Posted by 1237dmctlc

Well that seems like a great solution and though I'm a few years away from needing new tires I'm going to keep that in mine. It's a small price to pay for convenience like that . Can I ask how do you determine what to buy that will fit and make it out through the outside tire ?
Thxs

Borg's valves are spec'd for each vehicle just like any other automotive part. You may have to call for specifics based on your chassis. I was able to order ones that fit my Workhorse chassis.

[Seymour2Lane]

X2 on the Borg's. No problems in 14k miles.

Regards, Mike

[Wyatt]

Originally Posted by 1237dmctlc

Well that seems like a great solution and though I'm a few years away from needing new tires I'm going to keep that in mine. It's a small price to pay for convenience like that . Can I ask how do you determine what to buy that will fit and make it out through the outside tire ?
Thxs

I bought some cheap ones from China initially, and traded them out thanks to advise on this forum for better American made ones, with a nut to tighten them rather than a knurled tip, that was hard to get snug. They do weigh probably 50% more, a sign of a good build IMHO, and cost that much more as well. The chrome plating is also much better.

I needed two types. A set of two for the front tires, and a set of two for the outside rear tires (they come in a pack of two so don’t order four like I did).

45 degrees for the front two tires, and 135 degrees for the rear outside two tires.

Also to note, the China ones I had to use two adapters for each rear tire, as the pack didn’t contain a long enough 135 angled adapters...

[1237dmctlc]

Originally Posted by BobC

Borg's valves are spec'd for each vehicle just like any other automotive part. You may have to call for specifics based on your chassis. I was able to order ones that fit my Workhorse chassis.

Great thanks again.

[tetranz]

I started this thread when I got the RV months ago. I can now report that I foolishly didn't really need extenders at all. There were already two braided extenders on the inner duallys, so I assumed they were needed. One of them didn't work because the piece the pushes the valve was missing. I got some replacements but I wasn't happy with them and wasn't sure what to do next. This was mostly to do with installing the TireMinder TPMS sensors.

I don't know why it didn't occur to me earlier but I suddenly realized that I could get my hand in the hole and screw the sensors on directly. Likewise for the outer wheel with the inwards pointing valve. It's a fiddly task on both but doable. It feels much more solid and stable.

[Wyatt]

Originally Posted by tetranz

I started this thread when I got the RV months ago. I can now report that I foolishly didn't really need extenders at all. There were already two braided extenders on the inner duallys, so I assumed they were needed. One of them didn't work because the piece the pushes the valve was missing. I got some replacements but I wasn't happy with them and wasn't sure what to do next. This was mostly to do with installing the TireMinder TPMS sensors.

I don't know why it didn't occur to me earlier but I suddenly realized that I could get my hand in the hole and screw the sensors on directly. Likewise for the outer wheel with the inwards pointing valve. It's a fiddly task on both but doable. It feels much more solid and stable.

Yep, just more tricky...

[1237dmctlc]

Yup, if you have the rims and or small enough hands to do that but usually I take mine off when I have no travel plans to extend the life of the TPMS batteries otherwise their life can be greatly diminished. That means it can be a lot easier with them outside of the outer rim. When I had a gasser Class A when I was putting them on before I installed extensions I found it easier to reach in between the wheels to install them. Unfortunately my DP doesn't have that space...anyway sounds like you have it resolved so wish you luck and enjoy...

[DesertRatt]

As a new owner of a dually chassis (Minnie Winnie) I am still shocked by the insane arrangement of valves, wheels, and wheel covers that make it as close to impossible as possible to properly maintain tires! It's like a shoemaker designed this stuff.

I had a near disaster using valve extensions last week. I bought the angled extensions on Amazon, and tried to install them myself by slipping my fingers through the wheel holes to tighten them. I drove about 200 miles, and when stopped I noticed the outer tires nearly flat! They had 30# remaining. The extensions had loosened, and were wobbling around inside the wheel, such that every time they turned, air came out.

I carry a pump. I pumped them back up and tightened the extensions as best I could. I got home and went to the tire store, where the guy somehow got them really tight -much tighter than I could. But still worried they would rotate, I devised a way to keep them from rotating. Using 10ga. solid wire, I made a loop of wire connecting the extension to the two adjacent wheel holes and twisted the ends making a firm lasso around the neck of the extension. In the 500 miles I drove since, it seems to be working.

However, I have zero confidence in this whole scheme. I've permanently remove the Winnebago "chrome hubcaps" because they also interfere with getting at the valves, and they are a total PAIN IN THE ARSE to remove for checking pressure. I am going to see if there is a wheel made for the outer, which has the valve hole on the outside of the wheel, not on the INSIDE!

I've never owned a dually vehicle before. I find this situation to be a sign of outrageously poor engineering of trying to save cost by using the same wheel for inner and outer. Everything about screams SAFETY PROBLEM to me.

It's probably the ONE thing I hate about my new Winnie. The rest I love!

[Morich]

I do not even pretend to know the why of the design but there is a point to keep in mind. When you want a different design, you are proposing to reinvent the design of the wheel used by the entire trucking world.
When I find the rest of the world is going in a different way than I like, I tend to review what I'm doing!
Maybe roll into a truck stop and set looking at what trucks use on their wheels to see if it would work for your wheels, too.

[jayelldouble]

Duallies are the way they are so that any wheel can be mounted in any position on the vehicle thus only one spare tire and wheel needs to be carried. People have been inflating tires on duallies for about 90 years now using a double footed air chuck. It's really not that hard once you get the hang of it. I prefer to avoid extensions, especially the flexible ones. My Navion did come with short plastic extensions on the inner rear wheels, supplied by Mercedes at the factory. Those are the only valve extensions I'll use. They've worked fine for about 50,000 miles and two sets of tires.

[DesertRatt]

Hmmmm? I'd like to see someone demonstrate the "double footed chuck" on my Winnie.

When I got it in July, I bought the "double-footed" air pressure gauge. For me, it was impossible to use on the outer tires:
1/ The valve was totally hidden below the wheel holes. So, first step was to finger all the holes and find the valve. Ok, sure, I marked the hole.

2/ The valve was so short, and at such an angle, that there was no orientation of the "double-footed gauge" which would attach itself to the valve in such a way as to get a reading. None. The wheel was always in the way of the gauge.

As far as I know, I have the original stock wheels from W'bago.

I'm generally suspicious of any explanation that begins with, "We've always done it this way." It's usually just a cover for "cost reduction" or for "lack of imagination and capability."

RVers are not commercial truck drivers, generally. The use of an RV is already complicated, and full of failure opportunities. Adding more frustration should be the very last thing a company would want to do.

At a minimum, the unit should come with ALL PROPER extended type valves installed in the wheels that PROTRUDE through any silly decorative wheel covers. Such that an average 65 year old lady could check the tire pressure with an ordinary gauge. Maybe that would add $10 to the cost of a $150,000 RV.

Failing that minimum, the RV Owner's Manual should have a chapter on how to remedy what the factory left off to save a couple dollars.

Oh hell, who cares? It's only the tires! Let's spend the money on more draperies!

[Cocoa Rebel]

Originally Posted by DesertRatt

Hmmmm? I'd like to see someone demonstrate the "double footed chuck" on my Winnie.

When I got it in July, I bought the "double-footed" air pressure gauge. For me, it was impossible to use on the outer tires:
1/ The valve was totally hidden below the wheel holes. So, first step was to finger all the holes and find the valve. Ok, sure, I marked the hole.

2/ The valve was so short, and at such an angle, that there was no orientation of the "double-footed gauge" which would attach itself to the valve in such a way as to get a reading. None. The wheel was always in the way of the gauge.

As far as I know, I have the original stock wheels from W'bago.

I'm generally suspicious of any explanation that begins with, "We've always done it this way." It's usually just a cover for "cost reduction" or for "lack of imagination and capability."

RVers are not commercial truck drivers, generally. The use of an RV is already complicated, and full of failure opportunities. Adding more frustration should be the very last thing a company would want to do.

At a minimum, the unit should come with ALL PROPER extended type valves installed in the wheels that PROTRUDE through any silly decorative wheel covers. Such that an average 65 year old lady could check the tire pressure with an ordinary gauge. Maybe that would add $10 to the cost of a $150,000 RV.

Failing that minimum, the RV Owner's Manual should have a chapter on how to remedy what the factory left off to save a couple dollars.

Oh hell, who cares? It's only the tires! Let's spend the money on more draperies!

Thank you for stating the same concerns I am having. I am the 66-year-old woman who is trying to just check the tire pressures and apply my Tire Minder TPMS.

Any other suggestions?

[Wyatt]

Originally Posted by Cocoa Rebel

Thank you for stating the same concerns I am having. I am the 66-year-old woman who is trying to just check the tire pressures and apply my Tire Minder TPMS.

Any other suggestions?

Read my post up above. May help…

[Chaffeekid]

After years of owning and driving Semi's, I use these on my Motorhome, just walking by and glancing at my tires I know exactly how the tire pressure is doing.

It gives you one place to air both tires at once, makes the job easy. Hardest part is the install. Getting the hoses on the Schrader valves is a pain on the inside dual. You can get them for whatever pressure your tires require.

1. No they do not affect the balance of your tires.
2. No if one tire is punctured the other does not go flat, the valve pressure sensor prevents that, even a bad slow leak.
3. Used them for years through all kinds of weather, snow ice rain and Arizona heat never a problem.
4. Yes they are a bit pricey but worth it. One of the problems with dual tires is unequal pressure the lower tire will be dragged and scuffed while the higher pressure tire will be carrying more weight, causing more heat and wear. These keep both tires with equal pressure, and are so much more convenient.

The picture is one mounted on my wheel. Mine requires 95 psi, and I see they are a little low this morning, course it is cold.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/slredirect...getName=sp_atf