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12-22-2007, 11:10 AM
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#1
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Sonoma County, California
Posts: 375
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There's been a few threads on this subject, including one by me some time back, and thought I had this resolved. I replaced the wheel simultors on my MH a few months back and used the supplied wheel lug-nut cover tool to install them. You can't get a whole lot of torque on them, which was fine with me since the lug-nut covers are so hard to remove.
Today, I went to remove the wheel simulators to check all the tire air pressures and discovered that I could only remove two of the four simulators: the cheesey Dicor tool actually twisted and broke. I have a second one that I then used, and while it didn't break, it is twisting and I cannot get the lug-nut covers off. The lug-nut covers are the type that have to be turned, not the type that pull straight off to remove, and are fairly soft and easily damaged. A 1 1/2" socket is too small and a 1 5/8" is too big... any suggestions on a long-term solution to remove these lug-nut covers?
Thanks, and Happy Holidays...
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12-22-2007, 11:10 AM
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#2
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Sonoma County, California
Posts: 375
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There's been a few threads on this subject, including one by me some time back, and thought I had this resolved. I replaced the wheel simultors on my MH a few months back and used the supplied wheel lug-nut cover tool to install them. You can't get a whole lot of torque on them, which was fine with me since the lug-nut covers are so hard to remove.
Today, I went to remove the wheel simulators to check all the tire air pressures and discovered that I could only remove two of the four simulators: the cheesey Dicor tool actually twisted and broke. I have a second one that I then used, and while it didn't break, it is twisting and I cannot get the lug-nut covers off. The lug-nut covers are the type that have to be turned, not the type that pull straight off to remove, and are fairly soft and easily damaged. A 1 1/2" socket is too small and a 1 5/8" is too big... any suggestions on a long-term solution to remove these lug-nut covers?
Thanks, and Happy Holidays...
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12-22-2007, 11:37 AM
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#3
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Winnebago Owner
Join Date: Feb 2000
Posts: 83
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richard..after breaking one i got another and now use channel lock pliers..i put the lug wrench on,put a rag over the channel lock pliers to protect the chrome finish and tighten or loosen as needed..merry christmas..jim..
__________________
01 Itasca Suncruiser 35U
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12-22-2007, 12:40 PM
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#4
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Winnebago Owner
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Cape Cod, MA
Posts: 122
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I don't remember which socket fit when I broke mine, but I had a welder, friend fix the dinky lug wrench and now it is much stronger.
__________________
Jeanie, Ed & Slade the GSD
Cape Cod, MA
2017 Entegra Aspire RBQ & Sierra Crew
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12-22-2007, 01:51 PM
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#5
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Winnebago Camper
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Marysville, WA.
Posts: 10
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Hi Richard, On our 2004 Suncruiser there are only two simulators per wheel. My simulators have got a little notch right next to the base of the nut, all the others are not meant to turn, or be removed. Hope this helps. Regards, Jerry Kraft
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12-22-2007, 03:22 PM
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#6
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Sonoma County, California
Posts: 375
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Cousin Ed:
I don't remember which socket fit when I broke mine, but I had a welder, friend fix the dinky lug wrench and now it is much stronger. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
Sounds like a good idea; pretty sad that a wrench that is supposed to accept some torque to remove a lug-nut cover (which is really a jam-nut has needs SOME torque to stay on!) twists so easily. Great if you had a flat and were stuck along the road...
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12-22-2007, 03:27 PM
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#7
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Sonoma County, California
Posts: 375
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Jerry Kraft:
Hi Richard, On our 2004 Suncruiser there are only two simulators per wheel. My simulators have got a little notch right next to the base of the nut, all the others are not meant to turn, or be removed. Hope this helps. Regards, Jerry Kraft </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
Sounds like the same set-up as mine; two per wheel but they can't be pulled straight off, they do have to be turned. The ones that don't come off turn easily enough!
I was hoping someone had an idea for a deep-well type socket that would be the correct size, something a lot stronger than the gypo OEM tool.
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12-22-2007, 05:32 PM
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#8
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Winnebago Camper
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 13
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Richard,
I bought a 1 9/16" socket to carry. It is 3/4" drive so I found an adapter to take it to 1/2" and use a ratchet for it. I also carry a 7/8" socket for the water heater plug.
__________________
Tom & Sue
2007 Sunrise 35L
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12-22-2007, 07:24 PM
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#9
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 729
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You guys are tightening the two nuts on the wheel simulators WAY too much!
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12-22-2007, 08:40 PM
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#10
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Sonoma County, California
Posts: 375
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by FrontRangeRVer:
You guys are tightening the two nuts on the wheel simulators WAY too much! </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
As to the original set on the MH from the factory, they may have been on there too tight as it was impossible to take them off without destroying them. But my new set: put them on hand-tight plus less than a quarter turn. Drove 150 miles and they have tightened up by them selves... no way I put them on this tight using the supplied tool.
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12-23-2007, 06:45 AM
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#11
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Winnebago Master
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Buxton, North Dakota
Posts: 1,037
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I found a 1 9/16" deep socket with a 1/2" drive at a surplus tool store. Maybe you could weld a 1/2" extension onto the the Dicor tool.
__________________
2003 Winnebago Adventurer 38G F53/ V10 605 watts of Solar
1999 Winnebago Brave 35C Handicap Equipped
F53/V10
1999 Jeep Cherokee & 1991 Jeep Wrangler Renegade
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12-23-2007, 07:35 AM
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#12
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Sonoma County, California
Posts: 375
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by John Hilley:
I found a 1 9/16" deep socket with a 1/2" drive at a surplus tool store. Maybe you could weld a 1/2" extension onto the the Dicor tool. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
Hello John;
Did a Google but couldn't find a 1-9/16" SAE socket, other than in a complete tool set, listed at $1,800! I tried Sears, Harbor Freight and Western Tool. Do you happen to remember where you found yours? I would just use that socket with the appropriate rachet, don't need to use the Dicor tool at all. I think I've seen tinfoil stronger than the handle on that tool.
When the RV service departments open again, maybe I'll check with them: they must use something better than the Dicor tool. I had thrown the darn thing out but dug it out of the trash and might see if someone could cut the 'socket' off and weld a better handle. I have a trip next weekend and sure want to finish checking all the tire pressures. I now know why some tend to skip this step since it's so difficult to remove those simulators. Next time around, it's Alcoa wheels for me...
UPDATE:
I found a 1-9/16" deepwell socket at Grainger - $31.20. I want to verify the fit with the lug-nut cover but hope this works.
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/productIndex.shtml...ubmit.x=9&submit.y=7
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12-23-2007, 07:46 AM
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#13
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Winnebago Master
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Sarver, PA/Crystal River, FL/Shelocta, PA
Posts: 1,196
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When you have your coach service make certain the mechanic uses the OEM simulator nut wrench to install the 2 simulator nuts. If they go on with the OEM wrench they'll come off with the wrench. Do not let the mechanic install the 2 simulator nuts with the wrench he uses to install the wheel nuts. This will probably be an air wrench and a 3/4 drive torque wrench. I always give the OEM simulator wrench to my mechanic and point out the simulator nuts.
If the 2 simulator nuts go on with the OEM supplied wrench, they'll easily come off with the same wrench.
-Tom
__________________
Sarver, PA/Crystal River, FL/Shelocta, PA · FMCA 335149 · W3TLN 2005 Suncruiser 38R · W24, no chassis mods needed · 2013 Honda Accord EX-L · 2008 Honda Odyssey EX-L
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
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12-23-2007, 03:41 PM
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#14
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Winnebago Master
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Buxton, North Dakota
Posts: 1,037
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I got it at a store called "Surplus Center" here in Grand Forks.
__________________
2003 Winnebago Adventurer 38G F53/ V10 605 watts of Solar
1999 Winnebago Brave 35C Handicap Equipped
F53/V10
1999 Jeep Cherokee & 1991 Jeep Wrangler Renegade
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12-23-2007, 03:43 PM
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#15
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Winnie-Wise
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Destin, FL
Posts: 494
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">This will probably be an air wrench and a 3/4 drive torque wrench. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
This happened to me when a shop replaced my stuck caliper & lubed the other three. I think the guy torqued the simulator nuts to about 5000 ft lbs. Now I cannot get them off with the simulator wrench. So I'll also be looking for a 1 9/16 socket. It's always something.
Thudman
__________________
03 Adventurer 38G, W22, 22.5 Whls
Koni FSD's, TracBar rear, SteerSafe, 50A SurgeGuard, Eternabond; 2012 Honda CRV EXL w/Nav & AWD
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12-23-2007, 05:38 PM
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#16
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Winnie-Wise
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Mo/Texas
Posts: 318
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I don't know if this is better or not but the last time our rig was in the shop for service, the (2) retaining nuts on the rear wheel covers were not very tight and if I hadn't checked, we would have lost one or both. Tightened them with the wrench and so far so good. In the past I've always been able to loosen/tighten ours when the Winnie supplied tool.
__________________
04 Newmar DSDP 4015-Cummins ISL 370hp-Spartan MM Chassis-2013 Chev Equinox AWD-Ready Brute Elite Towing System-FMCA 402879-SKP 120487 [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
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12-23-2007, 08:38 PM
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#17
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Sonoma County, California
Posts: 375
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Thudman:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">This will probably be an air wrench and a 3/4 drive torque wrench. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
This happened to me when a shop replaced my stuck caliper & lubed the other three. I think the guy torqued the simulator nuts to about 5000 ft lbs. Now I cannot get them off with the simulator wrench. So I'll also be looking for a 1 9/16 socket. It's always something.
Thudman </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
I posted one source above, but the socket is $32. I'm also having the original tool repaired; I'm having the 'socket' cut off and welded to square stock, with a longer handle and a longer t-handle.
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01-08-2008, 06:09 PM
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#18
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Winnie-Wise
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Destin, FL
Posts: 494
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In the past few days, tried to find a 1 9/16" socket; no luck anywhere. Used the supplied soft metal simulator socket wrench with a pipe wrench around the socket end as a helper. Of course it ruined the simulator wrench & the nuts won out.
Today I bought a 1 5/8" socket and 2 adapters (down to 3/8" for my socket wrench)(Car Quest---$24 for all). A neighbor had a 1/2" breaker bar and it took TWO of us at max grunt to loosen the six simulator nuts (3 on each front wheel). The 1 5/8 socket did not mar the nuts. I cautiously snugged the nuts back on, in hopes they will not tighten up too much after driving. We'll see. I probably should invest in a 2" breaker bar. That way I'll never need it.
Experts: Do you recommend Teflon tape on the simulator bolts to facilitate nut removal?
Thudman
__________________
03 Adventurer 38G, W22, 22.5 Whls
Koni FSD's, TracBar rear, SteerSafe, 50A SurgeGuard, Eternabond; 2012 Honda CRV EXL w/Nav & AWD
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01-09-2008, 07:37 AM
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#19
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Sonoma County, California
Posts: 375
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[Experts: Do you recommend Teflon tape on the simulator bolts to facilitate nut removal?]
Good question, since I have had repeated problems with these jam-nuts tightening up by themselves.
I bought two 1-9/16" sockets from Northern Tool + Equipment ( www.northerntool.com)
When I ordered, supplies were limited. Item number 2571864 @ $13.00 each. Normal retail was $26.00 each.
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01-09-2008, 10:18 AM
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#20
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Winnebago Owner
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Apopka, FL
Posts: 63
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A little off topic, but after 6 months of fighting with wheel sims, we decided to invest 2k in Alcoa wheels. LOVE the look and they are much easier to do everything!
__________________
2006 Journey 36SE
2009 Chevy Malibu LT Tow
2007 Honda Civic EX Tow (Retired)
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