2017 Vista 29VE propane issues

[heb1024]

I am considering purchasing my parents' 2017 Vista 29VE and we are working through some issues that it has. One of those is an issue with the propane system. I filled the propane tank on October 29th (internet says it's an 18 gallon tank), the sensor was reading empty at the time and it took about 7.5 gallons. The control panel read that the tank was not full (there were 2 lights showing) the evening following it being filled. (I thought maybe the sensor was bad?) Then my sister was camping in it this past week and she "ran out of propane" (no propane appliances would work, including furnace, stove and hot water heater). There is no way we went through that much propane in that period of time with the amount that it was used, so when she filled it up, I asked her how much it took - 8.5 gallons. I've been doing some searching on the internet, and it sounds like propane regulators frequently have issues. Does this sound like it could be the regulator? If so, anyone know how difficult it is to change the regulator on these coaches? (I'm hoping to be able to do it myself, to avoid the ridiculous wait times at the local RV repair shops.) Thanks for any help!

[Morich]

Propane is one of those things which can be reasonably simple or if you miss a small point can kill or hurt you real quick, so some questions to think over first before I make any suggestions on what is best!

this sounds like a new field for you to get into0, so consider having it done if not sure of what's needed to stay safe! One big suggestions to avoid the Rv price and delay is to look for other places who do propane repair as it is used in lots of other feilds which are not charging "specialty prices" and wait time. I have a local propane supplier who has a shop out back where he does repairs on things like forklifts, grills and lots of other things like generators which run on propane. Those folks just work for a living and don't consider it a "special" thing like Rv shops!

One reason I might go that way is that you may be missing some vital info that could hurt real bad as there are a couple items missing in your post. One is that the gauge is often a stand alone item on the tank and not much involved in the regulator, so reading the levels and getting the right pressure are sepearate operations.
Things to check on that ? I suspect there is a "sender" on the tank which is often just a needl screwed into the tank and has a simple hand showing the level. This sending unit does send the signal to inside for you to read and they can vary quite a lot but we can use them to cross check each other. Does the inside and outside reading match somewhat?

But then if you do decide the job is okay to DIY, there are some points to do to make it somewhat easy to replace the reg in many cases. There are always chances of thing being added but you will need to take a look at that to see what you have.

I did a snip of a picture to ID some points. There are lots of small points which may differ but this is often what you will find.
A fill port where they fill the tank and usually covered. Don't bother it!
The sending unit to check for how full it says the tank. Read the needle as 1/4, 1/2 , etc.
In the center there is the cutoff valve, the same as on a barbq propane tank except sideways. Turn it fully left/right to open close the flow going to the reg and the lines in the RV. This controlse the high pressure in the tank before it passesto the reg to cut it down to lower pressure, so if you close this valve and slowly/carefully bleed off the pressure, you can then feel free to remove the reg and replace. One good way to start releasing pressure is having the stove insode burning and thewn close the valve and wait for the stove to go out! The BIG point to keep in mind is where the gas you release is going so that it doesn't collect and catch fire or explode!!!
A nice windy day to blow it a way while working outside makes me feel better!

[heb1024]

Sorry, I should have been more clear about my experience level as an RV'er. I've been RV'ing for almost 20 years, and have had 3 travel trailers and currently have a 14 yo class C, on which I have done many DIY projects. I've never had to do anything with the propane system, however. (Well, except for when a my intake valve broke when a tech was filling it, and I ended up with the fire department at my house, with the largest propane torch in existence running all the extra propane out of the tank!) I didn't notice what the tank gauge was reading when the tank was full, so I can't really answer that question (I also don't have access to the RV currently, so can't check it.) I plan to check today with my local propane dealer - thanks for that confirmation. Any thoughts on whether the symptoms I describe could be the regulator?

[creativepart]

First, the meters on any propane tank are guestiments at best. So that’s not as worrying as the other issues. Once in cold weather my meter indoors indicated that we were empty. But i still had propane for days. Finally, I looked at the gauge on the tank and it said I had 1/4 tank left.

My tank is 21 gallons, so it should hold 18 gal (80% full). But the most I’ve ever put in it was 12 gal. I had not run it dry but felt it was very nearly empty. I find it difficult to see how your sister actually emptied it completely “dry.”

The regulator just lowers the gas pressure but if it fails perhaps it is shutting down the gas the gas flow. There is an electric valve that opens and closes gas flow on the tank too. So, that’s possible.

You propane supplier should clear this up. Be sure to report back when you get the answer.

[heb1024]

Just checked with my local propane dealer and they don't work on RV's. I have an acquaintance who has a propane business in a small town about an hour away that I will contact. Frustrating that the large companies won't branch out and be helpful in their community rather than only doing their assigned thing. That's what happens when local suppliers are bought out by large chains... customer service drops.

[creativepart]

You might try these guys:

Gas Monkeys
3200 Governors Dr SW, Huntsville, AL 35805
Phone: (256) 885-4333

Or

Craig's Propane Services
279 Reunion Oaks Dr, Gurley, AL 35748
(256) 891-3157

[Morich]

I left off several things that may help. One is to make sure if there is gas or not. If you want to DIY, Go carefully and be aware but it is nearly certain there is gas left in the tank, so you are likely looking at bad readings.
But then there is always the chance that you are doing that old "human" thing and missing something like the tank valve is closed after they filled the tank. Did anybody get the propane stuff like the stove to work for some time after the tank was filled?
Not unusual for the folks filling the tank to leave the valve closed as they are human, too!! But if they do the stove might light on the fuel left trapped in the line but go out pretty quickly! Maybe a review ofwho did what might solve the issue or a check of the valve might help?
Then there are other things like some Rv have solenoids in the gas line and they need battery power to open. Any chance you have a solenoid which is closed and stays closed due to the battery disconnect being open?

Since you have had the big first lesson on what happens when we do it wrong, maybe a more bold move would clear some questions?
A bit bolder move but plenty safe if done out in the open is to close the gas valve at the tank, loosen the line at the output side of the reg and then see if gas comes out when you crack the valve open. Do this where there are no open flames, etc and just a quick squirt to verify gas is passing the reg may tell you the problem is further down the line?
I don't normally think of the reg as one to shut off supply, more likely to let too much through in my thinking.
But then there is always something new to learn, so maybe it IS stuck in some weird way and a good whack might jar it a bit?
As I see it, you do have two questions which are not very much related. The readings are off but that is kind of "normal" but not something to stop flow if there is gas in the tank.

[heb1024]

Originally Posted by creativepart

You might try these guys:

Gas Monkeys
3200 Governors Dr SW, Huntsville, AL 35805
Phone: (256) 885-4333

Or

Craig's Propane Services
279 Reunion Oaks Dr, Gurley, AL 35748
(256) 891-3157

Thanks so much! I will definitely contact them!

[Morich]

Just as added info, since I mentioned a solenoid as possible?
I did a look at the LP system on your RV here:
https://catalog3d.winnebagoind.com/menu/Parts.htm
https://catalog3d.winnebagoind.com/2017/303164.htm

And as far as I can see there IS NOT a solenoid in your system, so forget the idea of it stuck!

It seems to show a pretty straightforward setup with the tank at leftwith the reg being shown as red here and then on to a manifold where itbreaks down to seveal items before heading on to the back for the outside outlet.

With the limited amount of "confusion" involved, I might have to agree that the problem is in the reg if there is not aproblem with the tank valve closed?? Just not much there to stop flow to ALL items once it gets past the reg!

[heb1024]

Originally Posted by Morich

Just as added info, since I mentioned a solenoid as possible?
I did a look at the LP system on your RV here:
https://catalog3d.winnebagoind.com/menu/Parts.htm
https://catalog3d.winnebagoind.com/2017/303164.htm

And as far as I can see there IS NOT a solenoid in your system, so forget the idea of it stuck!

It seems to show a pretty straightforward setup with the tank at leftwith the reg being shown as red here and then on to a manifold where itbreaks down to seveal items before heading on to the back for the outside outlet.

With the limited amount of "confusion" involved, I might have to agree that the problem is in the reg if there is not aproblem with the tank valve closed?? Just not much there to stop flow to ALL items once it gets past the reg!

Awesome!! Thanks so much - that is super helpful. I did find the regulator on the tank yesterday and took some pictures of it. Based on the above replies I will call the two propane dealers mentioned and see if I can get them to replace it for me. If not, I will use your advice on bleeding the tank and installing on a breezy day not near flames (believe me, I understand this after my previous experience!!) And no, the tank valve was not closed - everything had been working fine up until that night when it "ran out of propane".

Thanks again for the help, and I will update you when I get more info!

[Morich]

Just to be sure we are both thinking the same, let me restate what I might propose.
The tank itself doesn't need to be empty, just close the valveand then let any gas trapped in the lines out in a way that it is safe. One way to that is to open some line like the one for the grill on back where it is away from where you are working.
Kind of thinking of it as a water hose? If we have a hose with a valve on the end and close the faucet, there is still pressure in the hose and it will squirt water all over us if we open the line somewhere! Better not to do that with gas but better to do it slowly at some other spot like the kitchen stove where we can just light the stove and let it burn until it quits as it runs out of gas.
Not meaning to be a worry wart but you already know and I found out once is plenty of thrill on that stuff!!!
Getting the skin peeled off my fingers once was WAY too much.

Once you get the tank valve closed and the line gas bled off safely, the reg change is pretty simple, depending on what tools and space you have. One thing to look at that might also be causing a problem is the air vent if it happens to get clogged with something like a mud dauber nest!!!

Best of luck on finding the problem!