Flushing Problems.... (Toilet)

[LeeB]

Our toilet in our MH flushes fine EXCEPT, it seems that TP (and other stuff) get caught about 12 to 18 inches down.

It looks like to me the "Stuff" needs to turn towards the "Black Tank" but gets caught at a 90* at the bottom..

Does anyone have any suggestions?

My "Toilet" is on the passenger side and as you know the dump valves are on the drivers side so that puts my holding tank in the middle



Whew that was hard to type.....and keep PC (politically correct)

[Old-Biscuit]

Toilet 'gravity dumps' directly into shallow end of waste tank which is tapered to other end where drain valves are located.......stuff runs downhill


Because it just 'plops' into tank you need to use more water to cause it to flow towards the deep end.

That means holding toilet flush ball/blade open longer so more water runs down after the TP & Stuff plop.

Plumbing Diagram
http://www.winnebagoind.com/diagram/...p34h_plumb.pdf

[Ohio Snake]

Originally Posted by LeeB

Our toilet in our MH flushes fine EXCEPT, it seems that TP (and other stuff) get caught about 12 to 18 inches down.

It looks like to me the "Stuff" needs to turn towards the "Black Tank" but gets caught at a 90* at the bottom..

Does anyone have any suggestions?

My "Toilet" is on the passenger side and as you know the dump valves are on the drivers side so that puts my holding tank in the middle



Whew that was hard to type.....and keep PC (politically correct)

Curious what Winnie you have. Our 35F has two black tanks, whereas the front black tank is shallower and the drain gate is on the driver side (toilet on the passenger side). There is a transfer macerator to transfer goop to the gate). I experienced what you described one time....and one time only. Back washing does not work. The dealer used a high powered flush through the toilet to break up the stuff (mostly tp). In my opinion, just a poor design and macerator takes a very, very, very long time holding and holding the button to transfer.

To solve future issues. No number 2's in the front tank unless absolutely necessary. The front is just for number 1. The back tank is for numbers 1 or 2 and holds a lot more. It is a true gravity tank by design.

One other thing we do after flushing and adding new bio upon leaving a site is pour our ice into one or both tanks. The movement while driving sloshes and cleans the tank before melting.


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[Petesflhtk]

X2.. you will probably need to fill the tank with water, let set for several hours to loosen, then flush ...

Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit

Toilet 'gravity dumps' directly into shallow end of waste tank which is tapered to other end where drain valves are located.......stuff runs downhill


Because it just 'plops' into tank you need to use more water to cause it to flow towards the deep end.

That means holding toilet flush ball/blade open longer so more water runs down after the TP & Stuff plop.

Plumbing Diagram
http://www.winnebagoind.com/diagram/...p34h_plumb.pdf

[LeeB]

Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit

Toilet 'gravity dumps' directly into shallow end of waste tank which is tapered to other end where drain valves are located.......stuff runs downhill


Because it just 'plops' into tank you need to use more water to cause it to flow towards the deep end.

That means holding toilet flush ball/blade open longer so more water runs down after the TP & Stuff plop.

Plumbing Diagram
http://www.winnebagoind.com/diagram/...p34h_plumb.pdf

Thanks you could very well be right.. We are always in water saving "Mode" even when we have full hook ups. Just talked to wife and we will see

Originally Posted by Ohio Snake

Curious what Winnie you have. Our 35F has two black tanks, whereas the front black tank is shallower and the drain gate is on the driver side (toilet on the passenger side). There is a transfer macerator to transfer goop to the gate). I experienced what you described one time....and one time only. Back washing does not work. The dealer used a high powered flush through the toilet to break up the stuff (mostly tp). In my opinion, just a poor design and macerator takes a very, very, very long time holding and holding the button to transfer.

To solve future issues. No number 2's in the front tank unless absolutely necessary. The front is just for number 1. The back tank is for numbers 1 or 2 and holds a lot more. It is a true gravity tank by design.

One other thing we do after flushing and adding new bio upon leaving a site is pour our ice into one or both tanks. The movement while driving sloshes and cleans the tank before melting.

We only have 1 tank.....


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Originally Posted by Petesflhtk

X2.. you will probably need to fill the tank with water, let set for several hours to loosen, then flush ...

"Stuff" is not "Stuck" it moves along as other "Stuff" is added... I truly think that "Old Biscuit" has the right idea as far as adding more water when we flush......

[Ohio Snake]

Originally Posted by LeeB

Thanks you could very well be right.. We are always in water saving "Mode" even when we have full hook ups. Just talked to wife and we will see





"Stuff" is not "Stuck" it moves along as other "Stuff" is added... I truly think that "Old Biscuit" has the right idea as far as adding more water when we flush......

Well if the "stuff" does not move when flushing with lots of water which starts to back up in the toilet and the tank is pretty full of waste. That seems to be pretty "stuck". I cant really seem to find another word for the situation and required the dealer to blast the stuff loose with a lot more water from the top.

I agree a lot more water needs to utilized for the shallower black tank. Using the shallower tank to just pee in seems to be the best thing to do for the design.

[Pusherman]

Originally Posted by LeeB

Our toilet in our MH flushes fine EXCEPT, it seems that TP (and other stuff) get caught about 12 to 18 inches down.

It looks like to me the "Stuff" needs to turn towards the "Black Tank" but gets caught at a 90* at the bottom..

Does anyone have any suggestions?

My "Toilet" is on the passenger side and as you know the dump valves are on the drivers side so that puts my holding tank in the middle



Whew that was hard to type.....and keep PC (politically correct)

We have the same coach with the same 90* bend under the toilet. As others have recommended use lots of water when flushing either paper or solids.

We also use a dish washing pan in the kitchen sink which we then dump down the toilet. Achieves 2 things - 1) saves gray tank capacity, and 2) adds additional water to the black tank, which helps a lot. Also clears the 90* bend.

Also -- I highly recommend using RV safe toilet paper especially with our black tank geometry.

[Ohio Snake]

Originally Posted by Pusherman

We have the same coach with the same 90* bend under the toilet. As others have recommended use lots of water when flushing either paper or solids.



We also use a dish washing pan in the kitchen sink which we then dump down the toilet. Achieves 2 things - 1) saves gray tank capacity, and 2) adds additional water to the black tank, which helps a lot. Also clears the 90* bend.



Also -- I highly recommend using RV safe toilet paper especially with our black tank geometry.

RV toilet paper is essential for the design. I like your idea of dish washing pan. i use a little ice sometimes.

[litewave]

Before doing number 2, pull up on the flush pedal to add extra water to the toilet bowl. The extra water will help push the stuff down better and add water to the holding tank to help dissolve the solids better. It works for us.