Fresh water tank drain

[fputnam]

I have a 2005 Itasca Meridian DP. I'm trying to get ready and leave Florida for the summer. I've been prepping the fresh water tank, some chlorine, fill tank, let it sit overnight and drain. But, after draining the tank and starting to refill it I noticed the drain was dripping. Repeated opening and closing the valve did not stop it. I've tried cleaning the drain with a fresh brush from the bottom up, but I'm not sure if the brush is getting to where the problem is.

I've looked at the Itasca schematics in hopes of seeing what this valve looks like, or at least get a P/N for the valve. It wasn't much help. It says 132678-03-000 tank with fittings. Searching online for that number yields no additional info.

Before I remove the panel that hopefully hides this valve. Has anyone else had this problem and fixed it? Is it even a user replaceable part?

In the interim since I'm pressed for time, I think I'll go to Lowes and buy the parts to cap the drain and deal with it at a later time.

[cbeierl]

Originally Posted by fputnam

I have a 2005 Itasca Meridian DP. I'm trying to get ready and leave Florida for the summer. I've been prepping the fresh water tank, some chlorine, fill tank, let it sit overnight and drain. But, after draining the tank and starting to refill it I noticed the drain was dripping. Repeated opening and closing the valve did not stop it. I've tried cleaning the drain with a fresh brush from the bottom up, but I'm not sure if the brush is getting to where the problem is.

I've looked at the Itasca schematics in hopes of seeing what this valve looks like, or at least get a P/N for the valve. It wasn't much help. It says 132678-03-000 tank with fittings. Searching online for that number yields no additional info.

Before I remove the panel that hopefully hides this valve. Has anyone else had this problem and fixed it? Is it even a user replaceable part?

In the interim since I'm pressed for time, I think I'll go to Lowes and buy the parts to cap the drain and deal with it at a later time.

Taking a look at the Parts Catalog for your coach it looks like that number is for the entire tank. I believe that the correct number for the cable-operated drain valve is:

062421-03-000 EA VALVE/DUMP W/O HANDLE - 1 1/2" X 1 1/2" HUB

[fputnam]

I guess I'm just dense. I still can't find it in the parts catalogue. I only find the tank. However, based on the number you provided, I see that it a 1.5 inch slide valve not unlike the grey and black water tank valves. That gives me a little better idea of what I'm up against.

[royinflorida]

I had to replace this valve a while back. Is is a royal pain to get to.
Like you I decided to just cap the drain line and get to it later. Is is just like a drain for the grey water tank but the cover you mention does not give up easily, in fact I have never put mine back. I'm just not that flexible.

[cbeierl]

Originally Posted by fputnam

I guess I'm just dense. I still can't find it in the parts catalogue. I only find the tank. However, based on the number you provided, I see that it a 1.5 inch slide valve not unlike the grey and black water tank valves. That gives me a little better idea of what I'm up against.

See page 241 of the Parts Catalog linked in the post above.

[grtharris]

fputnam, this is what you will see behind the inspection plate. Usually the the shield on the pull cable slips back a little not allowing the valve to close completely.
I had to fix the one on the 04 Journey we had.
As mentioned above quickest fix is get a expanding plug(PVC Test Plug Fitting) at Lowes.

[doorguy]

I had the same issue and fashioned an abs pipe drain from the outlet to just under the bay door and capped it with a 2" rubber abs cap. That way if I needed to drain it, I could just remove the cap and pull the cable without having to crawl underneath.

I decided that I need to do it right after a long time, so I drained the tank, used a tranny jack and unbolted all the bolts/nuts and slowly let the tank drop below the access cover area so I could get in there and replace the seals on the valve. The tank will not fall out, all the lines and fittings won't let it, but I kept the jack under it for peace of mind. As said before, it is a real pain to work on it thru that little access hole.

[Ray,IN]

That's exactly what I did, bought a PVC fitting and pipe plug. Glued the fitting onto the drain pipe,screwed in the plug and forgot about it until I found the valve part (Winnebago online store) for under half what the W dealer quoted for the valve. Took about 4 hrs to replace the old valve due to its location.
My drain valves are cable-operated and not like cheaper valves, they appear HD valves with a top support for the cable to keep it inline with the valve push rod.

[KCFDCapt]

My Meridian fresh water tank would not close completely. The housing on the cable had slipped where it is crimped onto the end mount. I reached around the mount on the upper end and grabbed the housing to keep it from moving. I was able to stop the water flow. I need to replace the cable for a permanent fix. It is on my list of things to do but it has not risen to the top yet.

[charles tuit]

The cable may have stretched so the valve is not closing completely. Before changing or replacing. loosen the set screw that holds the cable at the valve, pull the valve handle out about 1/4 ", tighten the set screw. The valve will now close 1/4" more than before. Try this first as it the easiest and cost nothing.

[fputnam]

Thanks to all for the replies. Especially the drawing showing the valve location in detail. Since I've scurrying around trying to get ready to leave for the summer, I opted to put a rubber cap with a stainless steel clamp around the end of the drain pipe. Since I normally only drain and treat the fresh water tank once a year, this fix will suffice until I have more time.

I'm sorry to hear so many of you had the same problem, but it was also comforting to know I was not alone. Thanks again.