Fresh water tank drain cable

wagonmaster2 · 09-22-2014, 07:41 PM

I drain the fresh water tank several times a year especially at the end of the season, if it's more than 3-4 weeks between trips, and if I have filled with any unclorinated water.
Recently I've noticed the cable on this 2004 Meridian 36G coach is beginning to drag somewhat and being harder to open/close.
The handle on this cable is located in the passenger side compartment just ahead of the propane tank and the cable runs down into the same area as the gravity fill water hose.

My question is: Can anyone tell me where the end of the cable connects to the water tank, what kind of a valve opens/closes to drain the fresh water tank, and any suggestions on how to lube this cable or the valve? I've had no trouble with the waste water valves/connections whenever the handle started getting stiff but not having much luck here. I've tried spraying some silicone down the cable just behind the handle but I don't think much is going in the cable housing.

Any ideas or suggestions will be greatly accepted as i don't want to break something while traveling and leaving the drain open.

Ray,IN · 09-22-2014, 08:00 PM

I use a product that claims to "migrate" into tight places and loosen corrosion. My choice is PB Blaster, but there are many other such corrosion penetrants.

cbeierl · 09-22-2014, 08:09 PM

According to the Plumbing Diagram for your coach (see VIEW F, page 8, referenced on page 4) there should be a drain elbow coming out of the tank. I looks like you'll need to remove a small panel covering the drain valve to see it. Page 294 of the Parts Catalog for your coach shows the drain valve (item 10). It a smaller version of the same blade valves used for the gray and black tank drains, with a cable attached instead of a handle.

wagonmaster2 · 09-23-2014, 03:08 PM

Thanks guys. My PBPlaster is at home but I'll get another can the first hardware or Wally World we come to. Don't know is anything will run down the cable housing since it's mounted fairly level. I'm trying to see what it will take to remove the cable from the mount at the handle end to hopefully raise it up to allow a liquid to run on down the housing. The diagram will really help me know what I have to contend with on the other end of that cable. If it doesn't loosen up with some spray I'll just wait till I get home where I can easily crawl under there and if I screw something up (which won't be anything unusual for me) I'll have the time and opportunity to repair it.

Thanks again.

doorguy · 09-24-2014, 06:30 PM

Wagonmaster2, Funny you bring up the subject; I just spent the last few days on the drain valve issue. I think we probably have the same setup. My rubber seals in the valve were old, tired and leaking, so I decided to replace them. I, too, removed the inspection plate at the front of the tank but all that did was give me a looksee at the valve, water level sensors, overflow tube and pump draw tube.

It is almost impossible to get two hands in there to unscrew the 4 screws/nuts on the valve to replace the seals. I ended up dropping the entire bottom plate(the one with 20 grade 5 bolts.

(Hint: Drain the tank, use a tranny jack or motorcycle lift to support the plate while removing the 9/16" bolts. I used a tranny jack and bolted a piece of plywood to it for even support. Lower the plate on the jack; the tank will sag a little but it doesn't weigh much empty; it will not fall out unless you forgot to empty it in which case you will have 630# resting on your cranium. Set the plate aside and use a piece of wood on the jack to support the majority of the tank and lift it back up in place.)

This gave me much needed access to the valve and all other fittings from underneath. I also had a small drip from the 1.5" ABS drain fitting at the bottom of the tank. I unscrewed the big white PVC union with a strap wrench then I could remove the ABS fitting in the tank(it screws in/out), wrapped it good with plumbers tape and re-inserted. When you unscrew the big union fitting, it frees up the valve assembly so you can twist it around to get at all the screws. I tried replacing the seals by just removing the four bottom screws and nuts and I couldn't get the seals in properly as the top part of the valve that houses the cable has two tabs that slip over the seal body and prevent you from pulling it apart and getting enough room to get the seals in correctly. So you have to remove all 6 screws/nuts in the black valve housing.

After the seals are replaced you can re-install the six screws/nuts that are on the valve assembly. Be sure to get the cable sleeve between the top plastic pieces before you tighten the top two screws; they will pinch the cable sleeve to keep it from moving. Then you can slip the upper assembly onto the valve body and install the bottom four screws/nuts.

Then you can manipulate the valve body back down and screw back on the big pvc union. I placed the bottom plate on top of the jack and ran it up slowly until it fit in the tank housing and then installed the 20 bolts and cinched it all back up.

There are two styrofoam sheets that will come out with the plate bottom also.

I had to do this twice because my slide valve seals did not seat correctly the first time cuz I didn't fully dismantle the valve.

So, I thought, if I have a similar leak in the future, the water drains onto the plate and works it way out thru the seams and it formed some rust on the outer lip of the plate. I prepared the lip, and repainted it. I also took some silicone sealer and ran it around the inside front section of the plate, AND cut out a small section of the styrofoam under the corner that houses valve and drilled a 1/2" hole in the bottom of the plate. My reason for this is that if I have another leak it will be confined to that compartment and my "telltale" hole will begin dripping right away.

If anyone attempts this and has questions, feel free to PM me and we can either talk via the forum or phone.

1ciderdog · 09-24-2014, 07:38 PM

Barry
Good description - I removed the cover inside the storage compartment but could not get to the valve area from the top. The cover inside the storage compartment goes from the pump to the far side of that compartment and is held by about six Phillips screws but cannot be removed by a "thick" person. I'm a tad over 6 feet and weigh about 220 and it was a real tight fit for me to get in that area. I wondered if I would be able to get back out - yep, real snug back in there.

wagonmaster2 · 09-25-2014, 08:11 PM

Wow Barry - What a great repair description even if it does sound a little scary, especially handling that bottom plate that required a tranny jack. One question: Would it be any easier or simplier to replace the complete value assembly (if available) rather than trying the get it apart to replace the seals? It always seems that things I take apart never go back together the way they should, unless I do it several times.

Really appreciate all the time and effort it took you to write such a nice long procedure.

doorguy · 09-26-2014, 06:53 AM

Wagonmaster2, thank you for the kudos. I don't think replacing the entire valve assembly would be any easier; it really comes apart and goes together easily enough for seal replacement, but only if you drop the plate to be able to get both hands in there. Also, the backside of the valve(toward the tank) is glued onto the big union, and the backside of the big union is glued onto the 1/5" abs fitting that screws into the tank; so replacing the valve body itself would involve replacing everything between it and the tank.

Mike and Pat · 09-26-2014, 09:30 AM

You guys are killing me. Everytime one of you have a problem and post the repairs I end up with the same problem with in the next six months.

Seriously, thanks for the write up, Barry. I will save it with the rest and start dreaming of the repair. I retire next April and will be making a West Coast swing so hope to run into you guys on the road.

wagonmaster2 · 09-26-2014, 08:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by doorguy

Wagonmaster2, thank you for the kudos. I don't think replacing the entire valve assembly would be any easier; it really comes apart and goes together easily enough for seal replacement, but only if you drop the plate to be able to get both hands in there. Also, the backside of the valve(toward the tank) is glued onto the big union, and the backside of the big union is glued onto the 1/5" abs fitting that screws into the tank; so replacing the valve body itself would involve replacing everything between it and the tank.

Where or who did you have to order the seals from? Does it take a number or anything off the valve assembly to be sure you are getting the correct seals?

tomsm · 09-27-2014, 05:24 PM

Several years ago the cable came completely loose from the valve on mine. I removed the plate on the forward side of the tank enclosure and the valve was right there. I think (can't remember for sure) the cable attaches to the valve with a set screw. Anyway, it was easy to reattach the cable so it should be easy for you to "unattach" it. Pull the cable out, lube it, and while you're there try lubing the seals if they're not damaged and if you can reach them from there. Maybe you can get away without having to drop that bottom plate...

wagonmaster2 · 09-27-2014, 08:38 PM

Thanks Tom, I'll try the cable first hoping it's just that. If it's like the valve for the waste dumps it's usually the blade dragging on the seal as it's moved in/out. Glad to know that cable can be disconnected and pulled completely out. Right now I'm fighting a small water leak around the dome over the shower during a rainstorm. I've caulked and re-caulked twice now and it's still seaping. Soon as it stops raining I'll have to get back up there and do some more.

tomsm · 09-28-2014, 10:48 AM

Funny how we have the same problems...

I had a leak over the shower too. It was from a hairline crack in the dome. I drilled a small stop hole at the end of the crack and sealed over it. That was several years ago and the leak hasn't come back...yet.

The crack was so tiny it was hard to see - look around the edge of the dome above the caulk line.

wagonmaster2 · 09-28-2014, 08:03 PM

I have use gorilla clear tape over two very small hair line cracks I discovered last spring but I'll take a very close look for any others as soon as it stops raining. I re-caulked anywhere it looked like there might be cracks in the old caulk after the first rain 2 weeks ago but still had a leak. Last week I really added the caulk anywhere there might be the slightest doubt and still have a leak from yesterday & todays rain. There surely must be a crack I haven't found yet.

doorguy · 10-06-2014, 04:36 PM

wagonmaster, I was gone for ten days with no access to the forum. The tank drain valve seals are the standard Valterra 1.5" seals, come in a set and under $3. You can find them at just about any rv store and C.World.

Phil Sample · 02-15-2015, 12:08 AM

Wagonmaster2, thanks again for referring me to this string. Regarding your cable, I have a small metal fitting with rubber seals that fits over the end of a cable sheath. You then insert a spray lubricant tube into the fitting and it forces the lubricant into the cable. The fitting was cheap and I got it at my local motorcycle shop. Just a thought.

Barry, I'd like to add my thanks for the great description of your valve repair.
It's exactly what I needed.
Phil