Gray Tank Input Pipe Broken Off at Tank

[Jaeger]

We just cut short our first trip this year because we had gray water leaking out the underbelly. After we got home, I got underneath and found the shower/bathroom sink drain pipe connection to the gray water tank cracked completely free even with the top of the gray tank.

The input pipe is a 2" ABS black plastic pipe that is inserted into a receptacle on the tank that appears to be a glued on. Does anyone know how to either, a) remove the broken off stub of pipe in the gray tank or, b) how to insert and secure a new drain pipe through the existing broken off pipe?

TIA

Jim

[Morich]

Sounds like what you need is a "pvc pipe reamer" but that also requires being able to get to the fitting!

[Bones2003]

Seems like something had to be moving around while you are driving (or it was defective from the factory!) I know that doesn't answer your question but probably needs to be addressed before you patch anything. Is it possible that the fitting is glued to the tank and the black pipe screws into the fitting? Probably not that easy! If you get a chance, post a picture.

[Jaeger]

Originally Posted by Morich

Sounds like what you need is a "pvc pipe reamer" but that also requires being able to get to the fitting!

I'd never heard of a pipe reamer, thanks for the suggestion. I might be able to get a reamer into the opening, but there's no way I could adequately control it and ensure the resulting opening was good.

That said, I'm reminded of the description of a belt sander: it's the best tool to use to turn a minor defect into a major repair.

[Jaeger]

Originally Posted by Bones2003

Seems like something had to be moving around while you are driving (or it was defective from the factory!) I know that doesn't answer your question but probably needs to be addressed before you patch anything. Is it possible that the fitting is glued to the tank and the black pipe screws into the fitting? Probably not that easy! If you get a chance, post a picture.

This is definitely a design defect, IMO. The fitting almost certainly broken when the gray tank shifted a little -- it's a very tight fit between the fitting and the plywood flooring and with no give in the pipe, the fitting would snap. Any shifting of the gray tank could have snapped it off.

If I install a new pipe and fitting, I'll use a "flexible coupling" to join the new and old pipe and give it just a little bit of play.

[creativepart]

Pay attention to the black color of the piping. It requires that you use the same kind of piping - if it's black its ABS and not PVC. You'll need different parts, "weld" or glue and cleaner than for white PVC piping.

If it's too close to the connection, then yes a reamer is needed.

Here's a video about using it - but it also shows a kind of break that would be replaced with a coupler rather than the reamer:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BXCPrNpD6po

[Morich]

Originally Posted by Jaeger

I'd never heard of a pipe reamer, thanks for the suggestion. I might be able to get a reamer into the opening, but there's no way I could adequately control it and ensure the resulting opening was good.

That said, I'm reminded of the description of a belt sander: it's the best tool to use to turn a minor defect into a major repair.

Definite truth there but that is something we have to figure the odds on before starting the reaming. That's why I mentioned be able to get to it well enough to do it right. My case was a three story apartment building with most of the waste coming down the pipe with the broken pipe stuck in the fitting. That left the decision whether to tell everybody to stop living while I cut out the big fitting in the main or try to ream out the broken section for a simple small pipe replacement! The way it worked, I could hear the water, etc. coming in time to get back and cover the hole but it was a nervous time until I actually saw it glued back and working! I was sure praying nobody flushed for the few minutes it took for the solvent weld to do it's thing!