Hot Water Hell -- Please Help!

AggieDad · 06-09-2014, 12:15 PM

I need some help.

My hot water system is driving me crazy. And I am sure it is my fault.

First a little history: The coach is new to us, and this is only the third time we have had it out. The first two times we had no problem. This time I had a leak upon hook up. This turned out to be a broken bathroom faucet, and I replaced it and then finished the hook-up.

Now the troubles began. After hooking up I had only a dribble from the hot water side of the tap. I tested the shower and kitchen with the same results.

We have an Atwood 10 gallon water heater (model GCH10A-4E) with a manufacture date of 11/02/05. Apparently it is what they call a two valve system

Valve 1 (white lettering on pink background) has two positions: 1) Normal, and 2) Water-Heater Bypass.

Valve 2 (black lettering on pink background) has two positions: 1) Normal, and 2) Winterize.

There is also a third on/off valve (unnumbered) that is labeled Fresh Water Drain. This valve is simply open to the ground under the coach.

With both valves in the Normal position I get good flow but no hot water. When I put Valve 1 in the Water-Heater Bypass position, I get a dribble of flow, but the water is hot!

From reading through the web, here are things I have checked:

water-heater is cycling
outside shower taps are both off

So what am I missing? I am pretty sure this coach was never winterized as it has always been in Houston, TX. I know I never winterized my previous B+ in 10 years.

I have tried to read as much as I can about this, but the only thing I am seeing at the moment is check-valve failure. Honestly, I am hoping that isn't it.

Any suggestions? Please!

Thanks,

Don Simmons

Ranger Smith · 06-09-2014, 12:21 PM

Bad check valve on back of water heater.

BFlinn181 · 06-09-2014, 12:32 PM

I agree, it sounds like a bad check valve. You'll need to access the back of the water heater, either from underneath or through a cabinet or closet. The check valves are screwed into the tank threaded water ports. You could remove it and soak in vinegar to try to dissolve deposits then reinstall.

Also, do the valves you described have lever-like handles? If so, they are on when parallel to pipe, closed when perpendicular. One should be on and one off when in 'normal' position.

Pepper2 · 06-09-2014, 12:36 PM

Ditto, check valve.

AggieDad · 06-09-2014, 10:22 PM

Can I just remove the check valve (at least temporally) or is it a must? If it is a must, is it something I can get locally or must it be from an RV supply store?

Many thanks.

Don

BFlinn181 · 06-09-2014, 10:28 PM

Available from Walmart:

Camco 1/2" Back-Flow Preventer: Tools : Walmart.com

Your water heater does need it, backflow could put heated water into the cold water line and perhaps cause temperature issues in shower or sinks.

Ray,IN · 06-09-2014, 11:02 PM

There is not a backflow device on the outlet side of the water heater, as there is nothing to backfeed the tank. Look at the cold water inlet check valve.
Removing that cold water inlet check valve may allow hot water to backfeed into the cold water piping, which is not rated for hot water temperatures. Of course you may temporarily remove this valve to check its operation.

Davel · 06-10-2014, 12:08 AM

The outlet valve is stuck closed. I had the same problem. Once you get to the back of the water heater, which may be a chore in itself, you can unhook the water line and remove the valve. It takes a 1" deep socket to make removal easy. The valve is for winterizing and prevents water from backflowing into the heater when anti-freeze is pumped thru the system. The plastic insides of the valve can be pushed out for a quick fix. I winterize by blowing out the water lines and using anti-freeze only in the traps so I didn't need it anyway.

good luck,
Dave

AggieDad · 06-10-2014, 08:31 AM

Thanks to everyone for your response.

I will be on this problem as soon as I return home.

Since I am on the road, I created a temporary fix by setting the valve half-way between the Normal and Water-Heater-Bypass settings. I have my hot water and a reasonable flow.

Showers can be taken.

ernieh · 06-10-2014, 11:37 AM

Your water heater probably has 2 check valves. The inlet valve is usually on, or near, the back of the heater and prevents hot water from backing up into the cold. That prevents problems such as the dreaded hot water toilet flush.

The check valve on the outlet side is part of the water heater bypass system and may not be located at the heater. They are frequently located near the bypass selector. Without this check valve, you will not be able to winterize without filling up the water heater with the pink stuff.